Recent content by tom3

That Cub Cadet might be some overkill but I like a bit better than the Deeres, even with that K46 hydro. Good sized tires/wheels, fab. deck, big Kohler twin, good warranty if there's a local dealer. But the price is something to consider too.

One other thing. I wouldn't just assume the other K46 is a good transmission either. Might be better off pulling the mounted unit and cleaning it out, refill with new oil, reseal and trying it instead. Many (me for one) have done this and gotten a couple hundred more hours out of it.

One thing I'd maybe add is a water tank on the back of that machine. Be really handy to fill the tank and take it anywhere for a small job. Totally self contained with maybe 5 gallons for a two minute job out in the back forty.

I just replaced the drive belt on my JD. Last one that was falling apart was an actual John Deere belt, made in China, about 4 years (200hrs) old. Replacement was a Stens. We'll see how it lasts.

For me I just use Lawn Boy oil in the LB mower, Stihl oil in everything else. (Stihl dealer is close to me) Ratio mix pretty much as they recommend.

Seems odd that it smoothes out with the throttle cut back. Is the motor running on both cylinders when loaded up? Might try a new set of spark plugs. They do go bad these days.

I would think the two TT hydros would bolt up and drive the same. Maybe a keyed vs splined axle shaft or the shifter arm might be extended different but you could swap parts and make those work. Different brands would probably be a hard swap.

I'd replace that chain. The actual chain part stretches over time and use and does not engage as it should in the driver sprocket, really wears that out much quicker. But just looking at the sawdust can tell a lot about the cutters depth. Real fine sawdust means the cutters are worn and...

And the Chinese small engine cloners are grinning ear to ear on this bankruptcy.

Very good point there. Dealer sold you a defective product - and knew it.

Been reading reviews on Gravely's own site for this mower. Ouch!

Just hard to believe that any company would put out a product like this. I wonder if that series machine had a running change to a different deck and frame design or something just as this one was going out the door. Really strange. I'd not sit and wait for a solution.

Just curious. Is that a 12 Cu in Briggs motor?

Aha. Then need to check for polarity of the two magnets, plus minus 1st magnet to plus minus 2nd magnet if the magnets are actually made that way. Easy to put them back in wrong. Just use a small magnet to check them. edit. Went out and checked a flywheel off a HH70, each magnet is full...

I'd sure think that if the magnets were glued in wrong the primary voltage would be weak. But are these just charging magnets inside or the actual ignition primary magnets?

Is this a brake that you push down and then lock it with a knob on the dash? Does the brake pedal come back up?

This is what keeps me away from high voltage battery seasonal equipment. Battery reliability and cost. I like the concept though.

There are magnets under that flywheel that maybe came loose and jammed under there, locked the motor and the flywheel inertia created the mess. Just guessing.

I remember back in the day the Suzuki motors had roller bearings everywhere, well built and run forever.

Sure looks like it, and the recoil starter does have what looks like 2 cycle on it.

Were you getting a good blue spark across the plug gap?

Vaporizing the gas I'd guess. Pretty common with today's summer blended fuels I suppose. Don't know if there's a solution for that if that is what is happening. Might let it run easy for a minute before shut down and after starting to cool it off.

People on HGTV pay a fortune for "landscaping" like that. Add some running water and a couple big rocks and you could be on TV.

LOL. Great minds think alike?

Double check the belt routing. There are a couple things under there that keep the belt from falling off the pulleys when the clutch/brake is pushed in and it's easy to get the belt on the wrong side of one of those. Don't ask how I know, duhhh.

Ethanol, clean fuel, dirty business. Had a huge ethanol plant down on the river some years ago, big outfit. ADM bought the place, shut it down, bulldozed the whole place. Controlling the market, owning the government.

Only good product I've used was the old Scotts weed and feed. I see now they have replaced it with their Turfbuilder stuff. Probably a friendly weakened product that doesn't work worth crap like all the other stuff on the market, but still triple priced. I've pretty much given up on the whole...

Solidly built like a safe!

How many people work in your shop? And sounds like a management nightmare to me, but my management skills are right at 0 (zero).

I suspect this is the actual problem: Transmission Kanzaki K46 Type belt-driven hydrostatic Gears infinite forward and reverse Oil change sealed unit, service not recommended Might do some searching on the net for info about this drive unit. Sure not suited for commercial use, or...

I like the kerosene too. The water based cleaners work on the pH deal and once they get neutralized the stuff is as good as water. But I use a bunch of Purple Cleaner in a spray bottle too. Cleans like crazy and rinses off clean enough to paint afterwards.

As that old saying goes, there are no rejects in Chinese factories. Always a good thing to watch when ordering something is a free return if defective.

Has this machine been sitting for a long period?

I'd take a look at the clutch, see if there's a manufacturer's number, google it, find the OE part for much less, maybe. Also, just me, I'd take a good look and see if the bearing can be accessed and replaced. Most "stuff" is generally designed to use standardized parts, saves money, and...

But that tire looks like an idea whose time has not come. Just the design looks bad to me.

I suppose to some extent the carbon buildup insulates the head and reduces heat transfer out of the upper block. Wouldn't hurt to clean that off now and then and get a bit better cooling. Along with a good cleaning of the cooling fins around the cylinder.

Made in China. And note the continuous rating is about 8000 watts. I'd look at a Generac before buying anything.

I'm late to the party, but did you ever pull the shrouds and clean out the cooling fins etc? I'm thinking overheating?

That would sure do it I'd think. Some of the newer mowers have pressed/powdered metal gears in the final drive, bad application in my book but I guess it's cheap and lasts a while even so. I'd try to find and replace both side gears.

Seems like those bigger motors have a lot of problems with coils, mine did too. I got a Chinesium coil for mine and had to do some adaptation to get it mounted up, but works fine so far.

I have a similar chipper and it does have a speed control on the motor. I usually start it up and let it run at mid speed for a minute or so, then wide open which is singing pretty good. Double check yours for a small lever to adjust that throttle.

But they sure are pretty!

The aluminum deck push mowers that run are probably worth 80 to 100 dollars if in decent looking condition. All those do look decent actually. Pretty neat find there too. The self propelled models usually have problems in some way and might be worth something for parts to a LB fan.

But then I'd think with all that grass floating around under there the extra cutting edge might chop it up a bit finer instead of just battering it around?

Welded on blades. That's a new one. Hate to ask, but how much is a 7 year old rider worth anyway?

Just gave their top dogs big bonuses so the writing was on the wall. Now to gouge the pension plans, devalue their stock to zero, sell off real estate to connected investors and lease the properties back, and reissue new stock with huge options to the execs who will be retiring and cashing in...

Does the tractor have a manual choke for starting? Might give it a half choke when engaging that clutch for the first time.

The click would tell me that the key switch is probably ok. If all the wiring looks good with clean connecors I'd get a new solenoid or a starter

That'd be two or three tanks of gas in my walk behinds. Pretty good performance with that mower!

Is the shift problem with the engine running or off? If off can you rock the mower back and forth and then shift it?

Sometimes the engine ID code numbers will pin it down pretty close. Not sure where those numbers are on that older model.

I'm kind of surprised to see lube still on the actual gear teeth in that old gearbox. There was some flowing lube in it rather than just dried up displaced grease.

Are these from a phone camera? I usually have to download to the computer, to paint, reduce size about 40%, then up load. Still get a really good picture.

If someone in management sees this a certain customer service rep. just got fired.

Can't believe that a gear box is actually lubed with stiff grease. I'm with you on the change of lube. Looks like a pretty heavy duty differential for a mower though. As above, clean it good first.

Washing the machine, got it wet? Try pulling back on the clutch/brake pedal with your toes, adds some pressure to the belt drive.

Duraforce motor. Like to get rid of this blade clutch but I'm wondering if the shaft is a special design with this deal? Shorter or splined maybe? Any tips for removal? Thanks.

It's a miracle I tell ya!

I didn't know you could break that outer race in the vise like that. I'll give that a try next time I get one that won't budge. Learn something every day on here. Thanks.

About a hundred of those on EBay for 10 or 12 dollars. Compare pictures and check the fitment numbers. Pretty generic carb used on millions of B&S motors.

Just did here. Oh well.

Harbor Freight has bearing separators, and a kit that has several bearing tools, pretty cheap both in price and quality, but usually do the job. If all else fails I've used an angle grinder and/or Dremel tool to cut as possible and then split it with a chisel. Ugly job but sometimes it has to...

With the age of that hydro and the higher service rating it may have better internals than the disposable units produced today. An oil change might be all that's needed to insure it's around for a good long while.

Nice looking work on the hydro changeover. Is that a Reese hitch on the back? Going for some heavy duty work there?

Letting the crank case gases back into the intake will give a pretty rich mixture on these, and worn carb throttle shaft will allow this too with the enrichment port set up for wide open throttle. I'd change those reed valves first off.

I've had several of both types and if you REALLY need a self propelled mower you need the rear wheel drive. I'm with Mowermike on this one, the lightweight push mower for an average sized city level yard is probably the way to go.

That's absurd for that basic mower even with the attachments that look to me like the mower probably isn't big enough to handle. Buy a pretty nice new mower for that money.

That engine with that automatic choke should have a thermostat on the exhaust outlet right at the muffler inlet. Will hold the choke open with the engine warmed some. Might check this to see if it's working.

Do you get locked out of many sites because of the adblocker? I'm starting to get a lot of this with the Ghostery blocker.

The backfiring tells you it has spark, fuel and compression. Not at the right time. I've seen plastic cams and even a plastic drive gear on the crankshaft. Looks like you've hit all the other things it could be. Internal?

I wonder if that banner is a sort of click bait, see how many respond by clicking on stop or wait in the message? Has to be some reason for that to continue interrupting the forum.

Went over to the shed and snapped a picture. Looking from the front just under the corner of the battery. Circular hooked end is toward the rear and hooks into the frame, offset hook goes into the brake rod to pull the brake pedal all the way back up.

i've also had problems with a valve seat coming loose, runs ok but does what you're describing. The seat can be put in place and staked to secure it. Maybe a 1 in 100 chance this is it - thankfully.

That blade looks better than what I've been using for years. Usually takes a couple resharpening to get it out of balance to where it would be noticed.

How old is this machine? Sometimes an older unit will have the little gas line break off in the tank where it attaches to the filter, could maybe cause this. Probably not but wouldn't hurt to check that fuel line.

On my L130 the orange brake lock does not release by itself usually, have to push it back down.

You generally want the spark plug facing up.

I'd suspect the coil, pretty common failure these days. But I'd also try a new spark plug first.

You're assuming there is pure gas available. Not in this area that I know of except possibly at our little airport, Avgass, maybe? I get what I get and run it in everything. No problems and our 2109 Tahoe has averaged right at 23 mpg since new on BP silver.

Being an OHV engine it is a fairly new design motor and the carb is probably built to be non-adjustable and have an automatic choke. Choke would be mostly shut when motor is cold and not running. For speed control you can usually see a spring on the carb linkage that is attached to a metal tab...

I'd guess those bulbs got wet while hot. Don't know the explanation for this but seen it a lot in some of my junk. Are those lights always on when the motor is running? Battery light might be completely separate issue.

To swap motors you basically remove the operator cable, put a clamp on the recoil start rope so it won't rewind back more and take the end off the handle bar, remove the blade, take out the three mounting bolts, trade motors. Sometimes the mounting bolts are a tough chore, as said before soak...

Might take out the plug, spray in some starting fluid, replace plug and see if it starts and quits. If so probably a carb or fuel supply problem. That red round button on the air cleaner is a primer, push it several times before starting.

That mower is dangerous in my opinion. I'd find another mower on Craigs list or FB marketplace with a blown engine - for cheap - and do a transplant.

That's a tough question to answer. Those hours add up to about 10 years of homeowner use. Lot of mower for the money though, and a commercial build. But you say you're not really up on lawnmowers so I'd go with the above reply. Add some money to this and buy a new mower that will suit your...

Tuff Torq recommends a 5w50 synthetic oil for the K46 boxes. Same basic unit (I think). There are a couple magnets inside the case on these and can have some serious build up on them. Best to remove, split the case and clean out the insides. Usual recommendation is to drain the oil, measure...

Had several (4 or 5) B&S motors torn down in the last couple years with the cylinder and piston skirts just destroyed. The top 1/2" of the bore where the actual piston doesn't ride is still decent on these. One new shortblock ran for one season. But I do see old Kool Bore motors worn out that...

Still screwed up here.