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Briggs& Stratton engine will not turn over
- Thread starter JimP2014
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Export threadI'll give you credit, you don't quit easily.The 19.5 horsepower lt2000 I think has a serious camshaft issue. Someone mentioned it before. I can't remember who but that very well could be true. I'm going with that now that I said this. It'll probably start up perfectly and cut through anything.
But I have a yard machine. 17.5 horsepower Briggs& Stratton twin v that I picked up because I needed something and I just ended up pushing this back to the work area. It can't handle any stress. It wants to quit and it quit right where it needed to almost the furthest point in the yard. I wouldn't say it's hunting and surging. It's more like I'm about to quit but I'll try and come back to life. I'm about to quit and I want to come back to life and then it quit
I'll give you credit, you
I just wish there was a way to determine broken camshaft or say bad carburetor where at least one symptom does not overlap and then from there you can conclude it's one or the other. And honestly I'm not sure if I quit. I think I'm going to take a break from it and someone on this forum wants me to replace the camshaft. I've never done it. I'm really not entirely set up for it but I've been thinking about it.I'll give you credit, you don't quit easily.
So that 19.5 horsepower OHV Briggs& Stratton engine is probably the most powerful I ever owned and maybe others are just used to awesome power where you could just blow right through 4 in or 5 in of lawn. And the thing doesn't even skip a beat. Maybe that's common but this engine has been amazing. I just don't have anything to compare it to. Maybe it's run-of-the-mill.
Jim
I run a cub cadet 782 from the early 80s. It has a 17 horse Kohler. It's a beast!I just wish there was a way to determine broken camshaft or say bad carburetor where at least one symptom does not overlap and then from there you can conclude it's one or the other. And honestly I'm not sure if I quit. I think I'm going to take a break from it and someone on this forum wants me to replace the camshaft. I've never done it. I'm really not entirely set up for it but I've been thinking about it.
So that 19.5 horsepower OHV Briggs& Stratton engine is probably the most powerful I ever owned and maybe others are just used to awesome power where you could just blow right through 4 in or 5 in of lawn. And the thing doesn't even skip a beat. Maybe that's common but this engine has been amazing. I just don't have anything to compare it to. Maybe it's run-of-the-mill.
Jim
Maybe you should have a shop look at the motor. Then at least you will know. No shame in that, you have put a lot of energy and effort into the engine. Actually we all want to know what happened...
I could actually do that but I have to take the engine out and bring it to the place which I could do. Otherwise around here it's like 120 bucks round trip just to bring the whole riding mower. Where I live to very reputable shops are no longer in business due to various circumstances. There are a few places around here that have tried to fill in the void but I figure since I did get this for free about 5 years ago. Whatever and even if it cost 300 bucks to fix it and other than a tire that keeps going flat. It's a really good machine. Although I did hit a tree stump and bent something, but at least I didn't destroy one of those mandrels. I think they're called, but actually that needs to be fixed too. And there is one guy I have in mind who's maybe about 60 years old and he's been in business for many years and he definitely knows what he's doing. That's his livelihood.I run a cub cadet 782 from the early 80s. It has a 17 horse Kohler. It's a beast!
Maybe you should have a shop look at the motor. Then at least you will know. No shame in that, you have put a lot of energy and effort into the engine. Actually we all want to know what happened...
Jim
So maybe about 4 days ago I came up with the idea of putting a little plate on the back of the engine where you could look inside and I've since revised that it would be basically maybe an inch, maybe a half inch hole drilled into the back of the engine block and then from there you would just have something like a bolt with a hex head. Whatever. But once you take out that bolt you could put a camera and that would be incredible with like a flex hose. Kind of thing. Maybe it's Bluetooth? I don't think it would cost Briggs and Stratton much money to poke a hole in the back of the engine and put a bolt in. It does nothing except it's a placeholder for a camera in the future if need be.I could actually do that but I have to take the engine out and bring it to the place which I could do. Otherwise around here it's like 120 bucks round trip just to bring the whole riding mower. Where I live to very reputable shops are no longer in business due to various circumstances. There are a few places around here that have tried to fill in the void but I figure since I did get this for free about 5 years ago. Whatever and even if it cost 300 bucks to fix it and other than a tire that keeps going flat. It's a really good machine. Although I did hit a tree stump and bent something, but at least I didn't destroy one of those mandrels. I think they're called, but actually that needs to be fixed too. And there is one guy I have in mind who's maybe about 60 years old and he's been in business for many years and he definitely knows what he's doing. That's his livelihood.
Jim
Jim
They are built to fail so you buy a new one... The only port they would be concerned with is the port to your wallet...So maybe about 4 days ago I came up with the idea of putting a little plate on the back of the engine where you could look inside and I've since revised that it would be basically maybe an inch, maybe a half inch hole drilled into the back of the engine block and then from there you would just have something like a bolt with a hex head. Whatever. But once you take out that bolt you could put a camera and that would be incredible with like a flex hose. Kind of thing. Maybe it's Bluetooth? I don't think it would cost Briggs and Stratton much money to poke a hole in the back of the engine and put a bolt in. It does nothing except it's a placeholder for a camera in the future if need be.
Jim
I don't know if Davis I'm looking it this way. Well actually maybe you're right because basically the fear I have not knowing what the hell's inside that black box is it's going to cost like 10,000 bucks to have it fixed. The camera would at least maybe not increase sales straight away but the dealers would get more business cuz personally I would say okay. It's a camshaft I can see it. It's broken. And then the small engine repair shop says yeah. It's a camshaft. I feel better about that. The guy I'm bringing it to is is I'm thinking about. He's definitely been in business for years, but the average consumer I think would shy away from having a small engine fixed figurine that that shop can say anything and they would never know because they didn't see inside the engine in the first place. That's my argument for doing such a thing. I mean it doesn't decrease sales in terms of service because there's no way in hell. I really want to fix that thing. I could see it. It's broken with a camera and then I take it someplace and I feel better about him telling me exactly what I saw. Maybe he might throw in another thing that I didn't see, but that's the point overall.They are built to fail so you buy a new one... The only port they would be concerned with is the port to your wallet...
I would not mangle the block by cutting a hole to use a camera.
Reasons why.
Those engines part out really good. (you currently most likely have a good block.
You will not be able see and really inspect good even with a good camera.
Those engines with the oil pump are user friendly to take apart for someone like you that has patience. (patience is one of the main things when doing anything)
Do it in your spare time eventually.
Labor costs of shops for such has it's limits.
No special tools are required to take the sump off and inspect the camshaft. (or to put it back together)
Lots of you tube videos about how to remove the sump and re-install on that engine and inspect the camshaft, remove cam, re-install, etc. Do remove the carb and intake as it can be easily broken. You can leave the flywheel on the engine to remove the sump cover.
I've used the china clone gasket kits instead of the pricy Briggs real deal stuff on that model Briggs and they work good.
You might get by without pulling the head, just loosen the rocker arms.
One of the first things to check for taking apart is use a really good 5/16 6 point socket on the 3 oil pump screws and do not round off their heads. Some are really tight and have tendency to want to not come out and if the socket slips it will round off their heads and then require additional steps.
A big metal bread pan or a big plastic lid is good up on a piece of plywood on sawhorse is good for shade tree. the pan catches/captures any oil dribbing and any small piece that might try to escape.
One thing that I would do before taking it apart is run a leak down test. (or even ask a small engine shop their labor cost for doing such)
You can probably rent such from a Auto parts store
Only takes few minutes when experienced and is one of the first things a good small engine shop should do instead of just taking it apart.. You can review such on-line for a single cylinder small engine.
Also good Briggs experience if you want to become more independent of repairing your own mowers.
Also don;t be surprised if the engine mounting bolts twidt off. Sometimes on old Aluminum block Briggs engines the 9/16 head steel bolts are gall seized in the aluminum block and one or two might twist off. Best to not start the removal process with a impact wrench and use a good 6 point socket. Start manual removal with 1/2 inch drive breakover or long handle ratchet.
If the engine mounting bolts twist off or the head rounds off you are immediately SOL.
Reasons why.
Those engines part out really good. (you currently most likely have a good block.
You will not be able see and really inspect good even with a good camera.
Those engines with the oil pump are user friendly to take apart for someone like you that has patience. (patience is one of the main things when doing anything)
Do it in your spare time eventually.
Labor costs of shops for such has it's limits.
No special tools are required to take the sump off and inspect the camshaft. (or to put it back together)
Lots of you tube videos about how to remove the sump and re-install on that engine and inspect the camshaft, remove cam, re-install, etc. Do remove the carb and intake as it can be easily broken. You can leave the flywheel on the engine to remove the sump cover.
I've used the china clone gasket kits instead of the pricy Briggs real deal stuff on that model Briggs and they work good.
You might get by without pulling the head, just loosen the rocker arms.
One of the first things to check for taking apart is use a really good 5/16 6 point socket on the 3 oil pump screws and do not round off their heads. Some are really tight and have tendency to want to not come out and if the socket slips it will round off their heads and then require additional steps.
A big metal bread pan or a big plastic lid is good up on a piece of plywood on sawhorse is good for shade tree. the pan catches/captures any oil dribbing and any small piece that might try to escape.
One thing that I would do before taking it apart is run a leak down test. (or even ask a small engine shop their labor cost for doing such)
You can probably rent such from a Auto parts store
Only takes few minutes when experienced and is one of the first things a good small engine shop should do instead of just taking it apart.. You can review such on-line for a single cylinder small engine.
Also good Briggs experience if you want to become more independent of repairing your own mowers.
Also don;t be surprised if the engine mounting bolts twidt off. Sometimes on old Aluminum block Briggs engines the 9/16 head steel bolts are gall seized in the aluminum block and one or two might twist off. Best to not start the removal process with a impact wrench and use a good 6 point socket. Start manual removal with 1/2 inch drive breakover or long handle ratchet.
If the engine mounting bolts twist off or the head rounds off you are immediately SOL.
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