Briggs& Stratton engine will not turn over

JimP2014

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
290
Toby, thanks for the input and now that I'm totally more awake, you know I agree with what you're saying. Something goes wrong with the engine. Consider that one variable and then you still have that one variable. But now you introduce another variable some other carburetor. Now you got two variables. You had one but then you now have two and I'm very familiar with that. I will clean the carburetor but you don't really know the history of this. So 6 weeks ago everything was running great until the engine just stopped and it could have been lack of oil. And during that same event the exhaust pipe got so hot that the muffler separated from it in a couple days prior to that. What prompted me to do anything repair wise was there was a lot of smoke and it was either coming out of of the head gasket area or the valve cover gasket area. And I also did drain the oil maybe 2 months ago or maybe it was right around the same time as when all these issues all came about you don't know that because you read what I write. In any case, I'm going out in a couple hours and see if this thing runs but the only takeaway I can give you the more I think about all this there was no carburetor issue. It was really running very well. Say a couple months ago there was nothing going on except smoking and then from there I could have potentially made the whole thing worse because I didn't exactly know how to fix the smoking issue but the carburetor was not what caused every the engine is shut down while cutting. It was instant and the carburetor was perfect. But who knows, there's not. I'm not arguing with you about this. It's just a good idea to clean it and keep it the way it was. I just want you to know it probably wasn't the event that caused everything to go wrong, maybe 6 weeks ago.

Jim
But putting aside the current current problem entirely and I'm going back to 3 or 4 years ago. When I got this machine the owner overfilled it with oil and how did that happen? And my conclusion 3 or 4 years ago was there's something wrong with a specification sheet or somehow when you drain oil out and take the oil filter off and do all that stuff. There's some residual oil and I don't know how much that quantity is but I think what he did and this is very important. Is he drain the oil out of the engine? He took off the oil filter and he said to himself there's no more oil and then he went by the spec sheet and whatever it is for sake of argument say it's 48 fluid oz. I don't know right now and I'm not going to look it up but he went by that spec sheet right from the get-go. He had way too much oil and that's where his problem began. So what I did back then was I never went by a specs sheet. I put oil in slowly like maybe every 6 oz I put in and I kept checking the dipstick and that's what I did say 6 weeks ago and I thought the oil level was correct because at times it's tough to read what's going on with the oil but that's the way I proceed it and I'm guessing I underfilled it because I was so afraid of overfilling it.
 

JimP2014

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
290
It seems as if when you place the tractor on a level surface and you drain the oil and you remove the oil filter, you assume that there's no more oil because you drained it all and I'm not sure why he ended up with maybe a quart extra that I don't know. That is something that could easily be replicated though I think. But back then I think I went from a level ground to blocking off the wheels on the opposite side of the oil filler plug. And then I still was checking what was going on. Say every 6 oz. I never mentioned any of that in any form but that's how I was able to make sure after I fixed the problem. He created that I didn't recreate the same problem and that was like 3 years ago. Whatever and I'm pretty sure 6 weeks ago or maybe slightly longer. Maybe 8 weeks ago. I was cognizant of the fact that somehow residual oil stays inside the engine someplace and don't make the same mistake he made. Which may not even be a mistake. What he did he just did what was assumed type of oil removal and then he went by a specs sheet blindly and just fill the oil back up and at that point he might have been to court too high.

Jim
 

JimP2014

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
290
This is the first attempt on July 12th around 9:30 a.m. and everything looked okay. Pre-flight except I forgot to turn on the fuel line and then I couldn't turn it off so I had to rip the fuel line out of the carburetor. I think the fuel switch works, but it would have taken too long. The operating temperature was about 250° f which I thought was great. So let me call this video one July 12th



The valve cover gasket is garbage right from the packaging so I went back to my original valve cover that had that high heat red silicone on it and I tried it again. So what happened this time? There was a lot of popping. There was fuel spraying back out of the intake and the flywheel is turning but nothing else was happening. I might be wrong but it seemed like it was encountering a lot of compression and the battery was starting to die.

So this is the second attempt below so I'm calling this video 2

It sounded like creaking. Also there was fuel and white smoke coming straight out of the intake, I'm wondering if I shared another flywheel key.

I might go back out in a little while and try again to see if it'll even start up after charging the battery for an hour or so.

Jim
 

JimP2014

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
290
The second video and I'm trying to keep track of everything that happens has never been seen before. It's all new and it's consistent with what I've been saying where whatever's going on. It changes everyday and I can't keep track of all of it. But unless it's a flywheel key that has happened before, but with the second video depicts, I don't think I've ever seen before.
 

JimP2014

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
290

Okay, before this video was made I made sure the spark plug was okay. It is. I made sure the rocker arms the pushrods that whole area is okay and it is. I unscrewed the fuel solenoid from the carburetor. Let the gas pour out. Put it back in and then spray carburetor cleaner into the carburetor. I then open up the fuel line. I set the throttle the choke turn the key and what you see above is the result. This is all different from anything I've seen before.
 

JimP2014

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
290

For the above video, at the very end there was something metal hitting something else metal inside the engine that caused a bang. It was not combustion related that's for sure.

So the first time I attempted to start the engine until July 12th in the morning I did make some mistakes with some fuel shut-off valves but other than that all the correct components. Or should I say all the components were correct so the valve clearances were good? Spark plug was good. Carburetor was good anyways. The first time it started and it seemed to run okay and then it started going to some hunting and surging near the end of its run.


Then the second time through the 5th or 6th time whatever it all became impossible to start. This is a video from about 2:15 p.m. July 12th. The reason I'm uploading this one in particular is because near the end I heard a medal on metal bang. The bang was not the result of combustion. It was something hitting something else and it seemed like it was inside the engine.

Jim
 

JimP2014

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
290
1000010199.jpg
So around 6:00 p.m. July 12th today. I tried to start the engine and it didn't sound good at all. Like something seriously is broken. I took the spark plug out and this image above. I specifically lined up the ignition coil with a flywheel. I made a mark on both and that means basically top dead center. Well I found out using a screwdriver. The top dead center is actually 180° past so it's in the back near the gas tank. Does that make sense? I would think that if it was top dead center several days ago, it would still be top dead center today?


Jim
 

JimP2014

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
290
View attachment 69183
So around 6:00 p.m. July 12th today. I tried to start the engine and it didn't sound good at all. Like something seriously is broken. I took the spark plug out and this image above. I specifically lined up the ignition coil with a flywheel. I made a mark on both and that means basically top dead center. Well I found out using a screwdriver. The top dead center is actually 180° past so it's in the back near the gas tank. Does that make sense? I would think that if it was top dead center several days ago, it would still be top dead center today?


Jim
I made those two marks 3 or 4 days ago is what I'm saying and that means top dead center but somehow it's 180° reversed so that Mark when they line up is now when the Piston is all the way inside the cylinder wall
 

JimP2014

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
290
I made those two marks 3 or 4 days ago is what I'm saying and that means top dead center but somehow it's 180° reversed so that Mark when they line up is now when the Piston is all the way inside the cylinder wall
Please ignore this because it's possible that I put that plastic piece on reversed yesterday and that explains it
 

JimP2014

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Threads
5
Messages
290
1000010206.png

I have never seen the outside of the spark plug boot with metal. I just wonder if this will screw up the timing or something similar and I should coat this somehow with rubber?

Jim
 
Top