Well - sometimes the simplest things...the choke cable had slipped and the choke would not close. I adjusted the cable to close the choke plate and it runs great now. I appreciate the help from this forum!
But before I figured that out -
- I changed the plugs
- I changed the air and gas filters
- I put a new carb on it (kept the old one because it is probably ok)
- drained the fuel tank and put fresh ethanol free gas in it
- verified the fuel pump was spitting fuel
- cleaned the battery poles and tightened the cables for good contact
- All good basic maintenance thanks to the forum help!!!
This is exactly why people really need to focus on the diagnostic skills when there is a problem with a piece of equipment.
All too often people end up trying this or trying that which is basically throwing parts at a piece of equipment and typically on the 3rd or 4th time they luck out and get it fixed and this actually reinforces the bad way of doing things and the next time they have a problem they will typically repeat the process.
It bothers me greatly to see money wasted on equipment that doesn't need to be and time spent when it shouldn't be.
As I mentioned in a previous post in this thread, since so many problems with mowers and outdoor power equipment end up being lack of fuel or lack of enough fuel getting into the engine the best diagnostic procedure based on statistics and odds is to always go with fuel first.
I mentioned that over the many thousands of mowers that I have repaired, that things like spark plugs are only the problem about one and every 450 to one in every 500.
Yet, it is the go-to for a lot of people when their mother won't start.
Going to fuel and giving an external fuel source first is the fastest way to get to the cause of the problems quickly.
Now you do have to know how to interpret the results and this is where experience and practice kicks in.
On your situation, had you have gone to giving it an external fuel source first,
You would have removed the air filter and sprayed a little bit of carb cleaner or a tablespoon of fuel into the intake and then cranked it over.
It would have done one of two things.
It would have either started and continued to run just fine or it would have started and then died after a few seconds.
Then, the proper diagnostic procedure is to repeat this at least three times.
Because it may take to the second or third time before it continues to run.
If and when it continues to run, this means the carburetor is clear and working properly and that would have saved you the carburetor replacement or save someone the trouble of cleaning out the carburetor or messing with it and taking it apart at all which can cause more problems.
You would know this because the engine runs fine once it gets going and the fact that it wouldn't start on its own would immediately tell you that it's not getting enrichment for starting so you would know to check the choke.
There were a lot of the single Kohler courage engines especially on husqvarna's ship from the factory with the choke poorly adjusted even though there's an adjustment screw there.
These machines would not start after sitting for a while like a couple of days or especially a week even with the choke on because it was not closing over barely halfway.
Once you got them running which a lot of people figured out by using gas or starting fluid, they ran just fine.
It was a simple fix by turning the screw about one and a half turns and then it started perfectly even when cold.
So by the results telling you that it wasn't getting enough fuel when it was cold when it was cranking you would check the choke and an investigating you would have likely found the loose cable.
Sometimes you end up taking the plastic air filter housing off so you can actually see the butterfly of the choke operating.
Now if the machine would have only run for a few seconds each time you put a fuel source into it and it would not continue to run on its own you would know that it's not a choke failing to close issue but rather a restriction inside the carburetor most likely.
It really is a systematic approach that I do to every mower that comes in that won't start.
It's a lot harder to type it out and explain it than it is to show someone how to do it in person.
It can be explained in writing and also a flow chart would work well too but you just have to back all the way back to square one, start from the beginning, and rule out the simplest things first or at least the easiest things to rule out.
It's always best to start with fuel even though some people insist on going the ignition route with plug or checking for spark etc.
They simply waste time by doing this.
I've done this so many times I have it down to an exact science that's a scientific process basically.
If a mower comes to me that will not start and run and if it cranks or pulls the rope normally and seems to be normal but just won't run....then the absolute fastest way to figure it out is to give it fuel in the intake or carb cleaner spray.
If it runs for a few seconds after that then I know the engine is mechanically sound..
I can forget about spark plug, coil, spark, slipped valve guides, popped valve seats, bent push rods, severely blown head gaskets, sheared flywheel keys, camshaft lobes slipping on the knurled camshaft, plastic camshaft teeth twisted off, broken connecting rod.
That covers a lot right there and I can rule out every bit of that if the engine starts and runs for a couple of seconds on carb cleaner spray.
If it doesn't run when you give it an external fuel source it's when the challenge actually begins.
Fortunately, over 85% of the time maybe closer to 90, they do start and run when you give them an external fuel source.
