Briggs& Stratton engine will not turn over

ILENGINE

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Some of those heads tend to seep oil for a period of time, and some the bottom edge sits at the sump oil level. So can be challenging to keep oil out of the area while letting the stuff cure.
 

JimP2014

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Some of those heads tend to seep oil for a period of time, and some the bottom edge sits at the sump oil level. So can be challenging to keep oil out of the area while letting the stuff cure.
Oh shoot! So what do I do now? It's been an hour and it was pressed in. I pressed it in like I said and then I realized it was still dripping oil. That is about experience. I had no clue that was going to happen but I'm guessing the silicone prevented further oil from seeping out. Not sure on that but isn't the oil harmful to the uncured high temperature? Silicone, I mean if I got to start over I'd rather start over right now. Then tomorrow morning after I find out it's still leaking. What would you do? IL engine?
 

JimP2014

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This is from 9:30 a.m. today July 2nd. The throttle linkage is definitely behaving a lot better and then I discovered the oil dripping after I shut it down, but seems like it's going in the forward direction in a good way

Jim
 

ILENGINE

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Oh shoot! So what do I do now? It's been an hour and it was pressed in. I pressed it in like I said and then I realized it was still dripping oil. That is about experience. I had no clue that was going to happen but I'm guessing the silicone prevented further oil from seeping out. Not sure on that but isn't the oil harmful to the uncured high temperature? Silicone, I mean if I got to start over I'd rather start over right now. Then tomorrow morning after I find out it's still leaking. What would you do? IL engine?
If oil got on either surface while it is curing it will not seal. Don't beat youself up though. I have had a few failures over the years also. Just had one a couple weeks ago that the Honda sealant was hardening and failing within minutes of the engine coming up to operating temperature. Basically can't use HondaBond 4 on valve covers because it only rated for 300F.
 

JimP2014

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If oil got on either surface while it is curing it will not seal. Don't beat youself up though. I have had a few failures over the years also. Just had one a couple weeks ago that the Honda sealant was hardening and failing within minutes of the engine coming up to operating temperature. Basically can't use HondaBond 4 on valve covers because it only rated for 300F.
So maybe 15 minutes ago I went out and I tightened it just a little bit more. I didn't see any oil leaking even though it's still carrying so I'm trying to figure out. If I run it tomorrow and there's oil leaking then it'll be coming out of the bottom and then I'm thinking this time put paper towel around the rocker arms and all that stuff and just repair the bottom surface of the valve cover and then when I'm ready just take out the paper towel and that's only if tomorrow morning. I notice oil leaking from engine use. Right now I can tell you there is no oil leaking but I know from what I read this is not the other type of the pmetrex where it doesn't matter if oil gets on it. But as far as I know the other product doesn't do. 750° f
 

JimP2014

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Maybe, yes.
Forest, I am sorry you replied to what was going on say a week ago and I thought it was engine related at that time but this is July 2nd issue and it's definitely oil coming from inside the cylinder head seeping past The gasket from say 8:30 in the morning but I removed all that and I started over and at 9:30 a.m. I went with the high temperature red ceiling and then as I pressed it into the cylinder head, I realized that some oil was dripping even then. And so now I don't think any oil is dripping being 1:00 p.m. July 2nd I'm going to go back out and take a look but I was mentioning if it starts up tomorrow and then oil starts seeping out. I was wondering if I could just remove all The red ceiling from the bottom of the valve cover and then just replace that. But also make damn sure no oil will come in contact with I anticipate to be newly applied high temperature red ceiling on July 3rd, 8:00 a.m. and I'm not sure if this message is posted for what's been going on today or this is an older thread.

Jim
 

JimP2014

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It seems like the top and the vertical sides for the high temperature red gasket sealant should be okay but either later today or tomorrow morning. I'm thinking of removing all the the red gasket material from the bottom horizontal edge and using a paper towel dry up as much oil in that area and then put some inside the cylinder head and then finally new gasket material and press the thing into the cylinder head and let that cure and then of course remove the paper towels and then seal it up the final time. It seems like with this engine the only way to properly seal it is to point the lawn tractor straight up or I believe in the past I had a different kind of valve cover gasket where it was not a piece of paper where it has some thickness to it. Maybe something like that would work? The other thing is it seem like it was possibly rubbery where it could accept some differences in two flat pieces of metal coming together. I have four of these paper. Gaskets and I think unless everything is perfect, these will not work.

Jim
 

JimP2014

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Since I put the high temperature gasket sealant in, I decided I would test her right now even though it's less than 24 hours for the curing temperature outside because it's in the sun sun. It's probably 120°. F so if it leaked then I had a solution for that. So far it's not leaking but what I can say with everything put back except the grill for the flywheel is it's definitely hunting and surging so I'm just hoping it's still a carburetor problem rather than something else. I tried to engage the blades and they seem to work. I don't know how long with or without blades. The engine will keep running and then there's explosions seem to come out of the exhaust pipe because there is no muffler currently.

Jim
 
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