Briggs& Stratton engine will not turn over

[JimP2014]

With the RTV sealants you have to make sure there is nothing contaminating either surface. but also have to keep the oil residue that is in the head from running back out onto the surface while it cures. Some of those sealants take 24 hours before they are ready for use. The last one i did I elevated the front of the mower before removing the leaking covers, and kept it that way until the next day to prevent the oil in the head from causing issues.


There are a few 1-5 minute ready to use sealants on the market but still require the same prep. The Permatex red high temp is a 24 hour cure sealant.

Yeah that's the one I used. The one you mentioned I didn't know it was 24 hours. I probably knew that a couple weeks ago, but I guess the good news is nothing very serious is leaking and it sounds like the engine is trying to smooth itself out, but it's still kind of erratic but the throttle linkage doesn't seem to be jumping as much. I've only been running maybe 45 seconds and I actually engaged the blade and it kept running so I'm hoping this is worth putting the time and money into it.

But thanks again Ilengine,
Jim

 

[JimP2014]

This is the latest. So far the only thing he can't see is the muffler area and there is no muffler that overheated and broke but 3/4 of the way in the engine starts struggling and it has some hunting and surging. Also the engine sounds kind of tinny. Maybe with all the stuff missing could be the reason but I thought it sounded better than this with the engine shroud off


Jim

 

[Mark H_NO]

Glad to see it running anyhow. Good luck with it.

 

[JimP2014]

Glad to see it running anyhow. Good luck with it.

Thanks Mark. The machine you see here was giving it to me for free. It was blowing oil out of the exhaust and within a matter of a few days I had it running as good as it possibly could be. That was 3 years ago. Now I'm struggling for like 15 days just to get it to run. I have some videos of the thing blowing oil before I got it in. Perfect running condition but I'm not a mechanic. I just got lucky.

 

[Mark H_NO]

My introduction to this site was a Toro Recycler mower that I was given. I cleaned the carb and it ran great. For a day. Then I messed with it on and off over a week without it running at all. I found this place, posted here, got some advice and got it fixed. Once I run it on my lawn for a week or so, I'll give it to my niece, who had moved into a house with grass. By the way, it had a sheared flywheel key.

 

[JimP2014]

My introduction to this site was a Toro Recycler mower that I was given. I cleaned the carb and it ran great. For a day. Then I messed with it on and off over a week without it running at all. I found this place, posted here, got some advice and got it fixed. Once I run it on my lawn for a week or so, I'll give it to my niece, who had moved into a house with grass. By the way, it had a sheared flywheel key.

That's interesting about the flywheel key. I know a lot of companies, for example, build knowledge, bases, and from what I learned is if you have a machine that's running in any condition and you change the flywheel key and then it won't start it all. You shared the flywheel key instantly. As painful as it sounds. I wish I check right away instead of putting it off. It's just hard to believe but it was torqued to about 80 foot pounds and as I recall from here the spec is 110 foot pounds and I couldn't do that while prying up on the flywheel with my other hand but I did get it to 100 ft lb hoping that would be good enough.
Jim

 

[JimP2014]

I went out this morning and I cleaned up the cylinder head and the valve cover gasket of that red sealant and I replaced that with this cardboard like valve cover gasket. I didn't like it from the get-go but I somehow bought four of them so I can tell you that leaks. So based on il engine the reminder it takes 24 hours. I think the best stuff other than is fast carrying gasket maker stuff. It's probably to use that red ceiling. There's probably some weird thing going on with something bent. I'm thinking that red sealant is more forgiving than a regular perfectly flat. Gasket is probably one drop of oil every 5 to 10 seconds. However, I only had running for about a minute and mostly the hunting and surging is minimal.

Jim

 

[JimP2014]

I went out this morning and I cleaned up the cylinder head and the valve cover gasket of that red sealant and I replaced that with this cardboard like valve cover gasket. I didn't like it from the get-go but I somehow bought four of them so I can tell you that leaks. So based on il engine the reminder it takes 24 hours. I think the best stuff other than is fast carrying gasket maker stuff. It's probably to use that red ceiling. There's probably some weird thing going on with something bent. I'm thinking that red sealant is more forgiving than a regular perfectly flat. Gasket is probably one drop of oil every 5 to 10 seconds. However, I only had running for about a minute and mostly the hunting and surging is minimal.

Jim

I just realized how many products that company sells to be clear product I own is called ultra red and can handle temperatures up to 750° f Permatex

 

[ILENGINE]

I just realized how many products that company sells to be clear product I own is called ultra red and can handle temperatures up to 750° f Permatex

Here is the instructions for the ultra Red
DIRECTIONS: 1. For best results, surfaces should be clean and dry. 2. Cut nozzle and apply a continuous 1/16″ to 1/4″ (2 to 6mm) bead of silicone to one surface, surrounding all bolt holes. Assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet. Finger tighten until material begins to squeeze out around flange. 3. Let dry for one hour then tighten to torque specifications. 4. Allow 24 hours to fully cure before filling with fluids or returning to service.
5. Replace cap after use. NOTE: Not recommended for use on head gaskets or parts in contact with gasoline.

 

[JimP2014]

Here is the instructions for the ultra Red
DIRECTIONS: 1. For best results, surfaces should be clean and dry. 2. Cut nozzle and apply a continuous 1/16″ to 1/4″ (2 to 6mm) bead of silicone to one surface, surrounding all bolt holes. Assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet. Finger tighten until material begins to squeeze out around flange. 3. Let dry for one hour then tighten to torque specifications. 4. Allow 24 hours to fully cure before filling with fluids or returning to service.
5. Replace cap after use. NOTE: Not recommended for use on head gaskets or parts in contact with gasoline.

Thanks for those directions. I actually took a screenshot right before I applied it but one thing I did notice as after I waited a bit I pressed it into the cylinder and I noticed that oil was still dripping from inside the valve area so it was too late. I already pressed it in. Do you think that's strange? The oil is still dripping and then I decided just to keep going and bolt it down slightly and then in 2 hours around 12:30 p.m. on the East Coast I plan on tightening it some more. So what do you think about the oil dripping? I thought only drips for a couple minutes after the engine cools down and then it's done dripping