19 HP Kohler engine - on a Troy bilt 6605

[bertsmobile1]

You should be able to rotate the crankshaft now that you have got the top counterweight off the crank case.
Ideally you should always pull a single cylinder engine down at TDC on the firing stroke so neither of the valves are pressing on the cam.
Obviously you can not do this with a multi cylinder engine.
There are already marks on the gears & crankshaft so why not use them ?
Not really sure of your photo can you pull back on it a bit please ?
need to know which bit has the chunks out of it .
Also need to see the underside of the closure plate to see if there is a channel for the guide to run in and what condition it is in.
All of mine are the Mk II version.
Closure plates are expensive new but most repair only shops like mine will have a shed full of these engines because of the problem with the bolts coming loose & trashing the crankcase.
I have a heap waiting for me to try & weld back together but I can fit a Kawasaki engine cheaper to the customer with a 5 years warranty so it s a no brainer for them .
The eventual decision will of course be yours but we need to see the full extent of the damage first
Right now looks like a closure plate top counterweight & counter weight bolt , all very doable and not too expensive particularly if you can get some reasonable used parts .

 

[Kba9]

You should be able to rotate the crankshaft now that you have got the top counterweight off the crank case.
Ideally you should always pull a single cylinder engine down at TDC on the firing stroke so neither of the valves are pressing on the cam.
Obviously you can not do this with a multi cylinder engine.
There are already marks on the gears & crankshaft so why not use them ?
Not really sure of your photo can you pull back on it a bit please ?
need to know which bit has the chunks out of it .
Also need to see the underside of the closure plate to see if there is a channel for the guide to run in and what condition it is in.
All of mine are the Mk II version.
Closure plates are expensive new but most repair only shops like mine will have a shed full of these engines because of the problem with the bolts coming loose & trashing the crankcase.
I have a heap waiting for me to try & weld back together but I can fit a Kawasaki engine cheaper to the customer with a 5 years warranty so it s a no brainer for them .
The eventual decision will of course be yours but we need to see the full extent of the damage first
Right now looks like a closure plate top counterweight & counter weight bolt , all very doable and not too expensive particularly if you can get some reasonable used parts .

15857651116425859331034975225554

Image 15857651116425859331034975225554 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

Looks like it's intact

 

[Kba9]

You should be able to rotate the crankshaft now that you have got the top counterweight off the crank case.
Ideally you should always pull a single cylinder engine down at TDC on the firing stroke so neither of the valves are pressing on the cam.
Obviously you can not do this with a multi cylinder engine.
There are already marks on the gears & crankshaft so why not use them ?
Not really sure of your photo can you pull back on it a bit please ?
need to know which bit has the chunks out of it .
Also need to see the underside of the closure plate to see if there is a channel for the guide to run in and what condition it is in.
All of mine are the Mk II version.
Closure plates are expensive new but most repair only shops like mine will have a shed full of these engines because of the problem with the bolts coming loose & trashing the crankcase.
I have a heap waiting for me to try & weld back together but I can fit a Kawasaki engine cheaper to the customer with a 5 years warranty so it s a no brainer for them .
The eventual decision will of course be yours but we need to see the full extent of the damage first
Right now looks like a closure plate top counterweight & counter weight bolt , all very doable and not too expensive particularly if you can get some reasonable used parts .

15857952751662790255716102287932

Image 15857952751662790255716102287932 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

Piston rod seems to be cracked

 

[Kba9]

You should be able to rotate the crankshaft now that you have got the top counterweight off the crank case.
Ideally you should always pull a single cylinder engine down at TDC on the firing stroke so neither of the valves are pressing on the cam.
Obviously you can not do this with a multi cylinder engine.
There are already marks on the gears & crankshaft so why not use them ?
Not really sure of your photo can you pull back on it a bit please ?
need to know which bit has the chunks out of it .
Also need to see the underside of the closure plate to see if there is a channel for the guide to run in and what condition it is in.
All of mine are the Mk II version.
Closure plates are expensive new but most repair only shops like mine will have a shed full of these engines because of the problem with the bolts coming loose & trashing the crankcase.
I have a heap waiting for me to try & weld back together but I can fit a Kawasaki engine cheaper to the customer with a 5 years warranty so it s a no brainer for them .
The eventual decision will of course be yours but we need to see the full extent of the damage first
Right now looks like a closure plate top counterweight & counter weight bolt , all very doable and not too expensive particularly if you can get some reasonable used parts .

Any ideas Bert's?

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Is the connecting rod seized on the crank journal? If the engine is run low on oil it is usually the first thing to happen bad. Can you remove the con rod bolts?

 

[Kba9]

Is the connecting rod seized on the crank journal? If the engine is run low on oil it is usually the first thing to happen bad. Can you remove the con rod bolts?

Not sure if it's seized. I can wiggle the rod side to side

 

[bertsmobile1]

rom where you are now , just pull the whole thing apart.
The gear wheel will prize off , don't loose the key then undo the counter weight bolt and it should lift strait off.
After that it is undo the con rod and push the piston up into the bore
From there the crankshaft should pull strait out leaving the lower 1/2 of the counter weight in the case.
We need to see all of the running surfaces .
The piston comes out through the top but for now just pull it out as far as it will go int the case & check the con rod for cracks or chunks missing and of course take photos.
Once we have seen what the rest of the engine looks like an assesment can be made about repair.
Kohler pars are no where near as cheap as Briggs parts so the parts bill can make a repair uneconomic compared to a replacement very quickly.
Kohler use a much stronger ring than Briggs do so when trying to move the piston in the bore it can feel very hard to push where as a Briggs piston will push up with you little finger easliy.
This can make you think that the crankshaft is "hard " to turn or not free turning if you like.
A trap I fell into when starting off so spent a lot of time retensioning Kohler con rods that were fine in the first place.
I doubt that your rod is seized , your problems should all be around that counterweight.

 

[Kba9]

rom where you are now , just pull the whole thing apart.
The gear wheel will prize off , don't loose the key then undo the counter weight bolt and it should lift strait off.
After that it is undo the con rod and push the piston up into the bore
From there the crankshaft should pull strait out leaving the lower 1/2 of the counter weight in the case.
We need to see all of the running surfaces .
The piston comes out through the top but for now just pull it out as far as it will go int the case & check the con rod for cracks or chunks missing and of course take photos.
Once we have seen what the rest of the engine looks like an assesment can be made about repair.
Kohler pars are no where near as cheap as Briggs parts so the parts bill can make a repair uneconomic compared to a replacement very quickly.
Kohler use a much stronger ring than Briggs do so when trying to move the piston in the bore it can feel very hard to push where as a Briggs piston will push up with you little finger easliy.
This can make you think that the crankshaft is "hard " to turn or not free turning if you like.
A trap I fell into when starting off so spent a lot of time retensioning Kohler con rods that were fine in the first place.
I doubt that your rod is seized , your problems should all be around that counterweight.

IMG-20200406-183148

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ibb.co

Can't take it out, I tried unbolting from the bottom of the pulley and no matter which way I turn it won't loosen up.

 

[bertsmobile1]

The gear has to come off first .
It will simply prise up off the crank with a couple of screwdrivers.
he only thing holding it on is the top cover and the key in the side.

 

[Kba9]

The gear has to come off first .
It will simply prise up off the crank with a couple of screwdrivers.
he only thing holding it on is the top cover and the key in the side.

IMG-20200406-195146

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ibb.co

Ok what should I be looking for next?