Remove the stator from the top of the cover just to get it out of the way. and then remove all the bolts around the edge of the top cover. Remove the cover. Be careful watching for things to fall out of place. I have had it pull one of the camshafts out of place and one of them engages the oil pump in the bottom of the engine.
19 HP Kohler engine - on a Troy bilt 6605
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bertsmobile1
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And before you try to lift the cover give the shaft a really good clean up removing all of the rust then a good dollop of petrolium jelly around the oil seal.
Chances are you will still wreck it but the shaft has to be cleaned in any case.
Also measure the depth of the oil seal before you remove it ( if you do ) because if driven too deep it restricts the oil flow .
Chances are you will still wreck it but the shaft has to be cleaned in any case.
Also measure the depth of the oil seal before you remove it ( if you do ) because if driven too deep it restricts the oil flow .
Kba9
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Well that doesn't look too great. What should I do from here.
Hammermechanicman
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Now the fun begins. You will need to turn the crankshaft till the timing marks on the cams match up to the marks on the crank gear. Then you can remove the camshafts being careful to keep things in order. There should be a thin metal washer on the bottom of the cam that doesn't drive the oil pump. Don't miss it. After the cams are out try to rotate the crankshaft. If still hard to turn timw to check the rod and crankshaft.
Kba9
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The back part near the steering wheel is stopping me from turning it so I can align the dots.
bertsmobile1
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That is the counter balance and it is broken, or rather the connecting rod is broken.
In an hour or so i will pop a photo on showing you what it should look like as I am about to split a bucket myself.
You are really lucky usually when that lets go the weight generally punches a nice big hole in the crankcase.
Go to the exploded view of the crankshaft to see the bits .
Been a while since I pulled one of them so not 100 % if the weight can come out without pulling the crank out .
IF so then the pulleys will have to come off the bottom.
I was wondering how you were going when I got this one which ate a push rod cap so now we know
It is on an eccentric .
You might be able to swing the weigh parallel to the end of the sump and if you hold it there you will be able to index the crankshaft.
When working properly it moves about 1" closer to the crankshaft at engine speed .
OH and you have just found the reason why the crank is hard to rotate .
In an hour or so i will pop a photo on showing you what it should look like as I am about to split a bucket myself.
You are really lucky usually when that lets go the weight generally punches a nice big hole in the crankcase.
Go to the exploded view of the crankshaft to see the bits .
Been a while since I pulled one of them so not 100 % if the weight can come out without pulling the crank out .
IF so then the pulleys will have to come off the bottom.
I was wondering how you were going when I got this one which ate a push rod cap so now we know
It is on an eccentric .
You might be able to swing the weigh parallel to the end of the sump and if you hold it there you will be able to index the crankshaft.
When working properly it moves about 1" closer to the crankshaft at engine speed .
OH and you have just found the reason why the crank is hard to rotate .
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bertsmobile1
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Note the position of the counter weight in the video Bama posted a while back
Any what got mine done so here are some pickies
Weight closes to crankcase
Weight closest to crankshaft
Note groove when the oil seal was running.
When you replace the oil seal tap it in about 1 mm higher so the lip is not in exactly the same place
Drop the plate back onto the 4 shafts ( 2 cam, crank & counter weight )
DO NOT TAP IT HOME.
rotate the crank a few turns first to ensure everything is lined up
Generally the plate will drop all by itself ,'
But after you have rotated the crank you can VERY LIGHTLY tap the plate but I prefer to pull it down the last bit with the bolts.
There front ones MUST HAVE BLUE LOCKTITE on the bottome 1/2" as they are probe to vibrating loose.
I swap the bolts front to back because the back ones will be clean .
Tighten them slowly and diagonally like a head or you can & will warp the plate .
Any what got mine done so here are some pickies
Weight closes to crankcase
Weight closest to crankshaft
Note groove when the oil seal was running.
When you replace the oil seal tap it in about 1 mm higher so the lip is not in exactly the same place
Drop the plate back onto the 4 shafts ( 2 cam, crank & counter weight )
DO NOT TAP IT HOME.
rotate the crank a few turns first to ensure everything is lined up
Generally the plate will drop all by itself ,'
But after you have rotated the crank you can VERY LIGHTLY tap the plate but I prefer to pull it down the last bit with the bolts.
There front ones MUST HAVE BLUE LOCKTITE on the bottome 1/2" as they are probe to vibrating loose.
I swap the bolts front to back because the back ones will be clean .
Tighten them slowly and diagonally like a head or you can & will warp the plate .
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Kba9
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First off, I appreciate all the help and effort. Very kind of you and everyone on this forum. So alls I have to do is take apart the counter weight and get a new one?
Kba9
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I could swing it left and right. But I don't see where it's supposed to be attached to a connecting rod.