19 HP Kohler engine - on a Troy bilt 6605

bertsmobile1

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If you swing it t the right as seen in the photo you should be able to rotate the crank.
You might need to do both at the same time .
You have the Mk I version which predates me by some time Just under the gear which turns the cams is the cam that moves the counterweight you will see that it is off set to the axis of the crankcase to give the to & fro motion.
Don't know what stops that version from moving left right
You will need to get your hands on a parts breakdown to see what is there .
The counterweight is in 2 parts held together with a long bolt.
Mine has a connecting rod that is bolted to the crankcase to keep it moving in the correct plane .
Yours has a "guide plate" but how that works is beyond me .
If some one does not chime in with better information drop a PM To Illengine, Rivets or Startech they have been at this game a lot longer than me .
Scrounges around the dead engine room but all of the dead Kohlers are the latter type like shown in my photos & the video .
 

Kba9

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If you swing it t the right as seen in the photo you should be able to rotate the crank.
You might need to do both at the same time .
You have the Mk I version which predates me by some time Just under the gear which turns the cams is the cam that moves the counterweight you will see that it is off set to the axis of the crankcase to give the to & fro motion.
Don't know what stops that version from moving left right
You will need to get your hands on a parts breakdown to see what is there .
The counterweight is in 2 parts held together with a long bolt.
Mine has a connecting rod that is bolted to the crankcase to keep it moving in the correct plane .
Yours has a "guide plate" but how that works is beyond me .
If some one does not chime in with better information drop a PM To Illengine, Rivets or Startech they have been at this game a lot longer than me .
Scrounges around the dead engine room but all of the dead Kohlers are the latter type like shown in my photos & the video .


Page C looks like it. Any thoughts?
 

ILENGINE

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Flip the top cover over and see if there is an alignment slot that the tab on top of the counterweight may be designed to run in,
 

bertsmobile1

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Well that might explain the shrapnel siting inside the engine in his second photo.
Going to physio tomorrow but will dig a couple of deaden out of the krapper box.
looks like there are 2 closure plates 20 009 10-S ( early ) and 20 009 35 -S ( late ) both a little $$$$
At least they are both listed.
FWIW now I looked up the engine on Jacks site rather than using the Huaqvarna IPL I had on file there is a con rod for the counter weight in on the bottom on early engines.
For some strange reson my browser will not connect to e-replacements parts any more ( security setting that can not over ride )
 

Kba9

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Well that might explain the shrapnel siting inside the engine in his second photo.
Going to physio tomorrow but will dig a couple of deaden out of the krapper box.
looks like there are 2 closure plates 20 009 10-S ( early ) and 20 009 35 -S ( late ) both a little $$$$
At least they are both listed.
FWIW now I looked up the engine on Jacks site rather than using the Huaqvarna IPL I had on file there is a con rod for the counter weight in on the bottom on early engines.
For some strange reson my browser will not connect to e-replacements parts any more ( security setting that can not over ride )


Around 8:40 of this video it shows the weight of the counter balance that's on the bottom. I'll drain the rest of the oil and see if there's one on the bottom.
 

Kba9

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Well that might explain the shrapnel siting inside the engine in his second photo.
Going to physio tomorrow but will dig a couple of deaden out of the krapper box.
looks like there are 2 closure plates 20 009 10-S ( early ) and 20 009 35 -S ( late ) both a little $$$$
At least they are both listed.
FWIW now I looked up the engine on Jacks site rather than using the Huaqvarna IPL I had on file there is a con rod for the counter weight in on the bottom on early engines.
For some strange reson my browser will not connect to e-replacements parts any more ( security setting that can not over ride )

Ya the bottom counter weight is there.
 

bertsmobile1

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Around 8:40 of this video it shows the weight of the counter balance that's on the bottom. I'll drain the rest of the oil and see if there's one on the bottom.
And a painful video it was to watch.
Reusing a split gasket on an engine where the gasket sets the end float , no leakdown test , didn't even check the valves seating with water / fuel etc after stating it had low compression, which it does not because the exhasut cam has a decompressor which was not shown to be checked before reassembly , putting scratch marks in a plastic cam rather than turning the crank to align the timing marks ( alternative is to mark with a sharpie & scratch a lin in that or use paint pen ) . I can understand he was working on a budget but it is the sort of thing that makes real mechanics cringe.

But at lease it was your motor
Looks like Kohler shifted the counter weight con rod to the top of the engine .
so you will have con rod on the bottom and a slot on the top which explains why it is called a GUIDE block in the parts book.
 

Kba9

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And a painful video it was to watch.
Reusing a split gasket on an engine where the gasket sets the end float , no leakdown test , didn't even check the valves seating with water / fuel etc after stating it had low compression, which it does not because the exhasut cam has a decompressor which was not shown to be checked before reassembly , putting scratch marks in a plastic cam rather than turning the crank to align the timing marks ( alternative is to mark with a sharpie & scratch a lin in that or use paint pen ) . I can understand he was working on a budget but it is the sort of thing that makes real mechanics cringe.

But at lease it was your motor
Looks like Kohler shifted the counter weight con rod to the top of the engine .
so you will have con rod on the bottom and a slot on the top which explains why it is called a GUIDE block in the parts book.


Sorry I'm a little confused. So should I Mark a spot on the cams and begin taking it apart?
 

Kba9

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And a painful video it was to watch.
Reusing a split gasket on an engine where the gasket sets the end float , no leakdown test , didn't even check the valves seating with water / fuel etc after stating it had low compression, which it does not because the exhasut cam has a decompressor which was not shown to be checked before reassembly , putting scratch marks in a plastic cam rather than turning the crank to align the timing marks ( alternative is to mark with a sharpie & scratch a lin in that or use paint pen ) . I can understand he was working on a budget but it is the sort of thing that makes real mechanics cringe.

But at lease it was your motor
Looks like Kohler shifted the counter weight con rod to the top of the engine .
so you will have con rod on the bottom and a slot on the top which explains why it is called a GUIDE block in the parts book.


Seems like that ring is broken. Nearest to the spark plug hole, right under the cam. Is it a worthy/no expensive fix?

 
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