19 HP Kohler engine - on a Troy bilt 6605

[Kba9]

IT should prize off but of course it is stuffed.
The bearing is not listed as being a repacement part.
SO you will need to take both the cleaned crank shaft ( bearing removed ) and the counter weight to a bearing shop.
There will be a replacement available but you might need to trim it to width.

Sort of glad you found that because it explains the out of position counterweight.

Yeah it's been take off. But there's still metal left from it

 

[Kba9]

IT should prize off but of course it is stuffed.
The bearing is not listed as being a repacement part.
SO you will need to take both the cleaned crank shaft ( bearing removed ) and the counter weight to a bearing shop.
There will be a replacement available but you might need to trim it to width.

Sort of glad you found that because it explains the out of position counterweight.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153768425198 you think this would be cheaper option?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Well he is obviously a mower breaker by the looks of his other items and has a vary good feedback score so i would be happy buying it form him at least
OTOH I would never fit a used bolt.
Seen way too many where the bolt has let go so they are new only .
Been a bit of a long trip hasen't it but looking good now.

 

[Kba9]

Well he is obviously a mower breaker by the looks of his other items and has a vary good feedback score so i would be happy buying it form him at least
OTOH I would never fit a used bolt.
Seen way too many where the bolt has let go so they are new only .
Been a bit of a long trip hasen't it but looking good now.

IMG-20200428-151642

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ibb.co

IMG-20200428-151639

Image IMG-20200428-151639 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

Is there a way to take the metal off the crank. This is from the top counter weight. Left alot of metal almost welded together

 

[bertsmobile1]

Same as the con rod journal.
A touch of hydrochloric acid if it is alloy or a strong caustic soda solution ( lye ? ) if it is white metal.
some careful scraping .

 

[Kba9]

Same as the con rod journal.
A touch of hydrochloric acid if it is alloy or a strong caustic soda solution ( lye ? ) if it is white metal.
some careful scraping .

Bought some muratic acid, it's taking quite a bit of effort with a soft metal pad to take it off.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Bought some muratic acid, it's taking quite a bit of effort with a soft metal pad to take it off.

The best acid is nitric acid but that is quite dangerious and lets off highly toxic fumes .
Nitric acid also attacks the steel a lot more than the hydrochloric will
Down here it is scheduled
Hydrochliric will work, it just takes more effort