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Need the model number, type, and code numbers that are stamped on the metal top housing, usually just over the spark plug for flat head motors. If you are pretty handy with tools you can usually find a new short block that replaces the worn out parts for reasonable money.

Your mower has a Tufftorq K46 hydro transmission. These are known for early failures. Sure hope I'm wrong but I suspect the drive belt is not the problem unless it's totally shot.

Thanks. I'm done.

Does that have a belt drive cam? Check that valve timing.

Shoot it with a 12 ga, problem solved. OK, I'm done with the BS, carry on. The Taryl video probably will solve the problem, correct belts and go through the pulleys and idlers.

Just got back from Rural King a while back, got a 12ga semi auto shot gun. Can't wait to get out at son's house in the sticks and wake up all the squirrels with it.

Here's a video on something similar. Skip to 4 minutes in if you don't want the BS from Taryl. ( But that's the best part) 13 to 16 minutes in really shows the vari-pulley.

Item 13 is the motor pulley, top drives the transmission, bottom to the blade drive. Item 31 is the variable pitch pulley. I like these drive setups but they do require some experience to keep them running right.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1061966/Kohler-Command-Pro-Ech749.html?page=138

The bearing numbers given are double sealed bearings, nothing more needed. I pry the inner seal out of the bearing to repack, if careful the seal can be put back in.

That could do it. (couldn't resist the jab)

And be careful with the unlock on those hydros. That is (I think) a mechanical connection. When you pull the mower out of the shed make sure to re-engage and rock the mower back and forth to make sure it does fully engage.

I won't add to it, but I found out the hard way on using current spec automotive oil in a lawn mower.

Seems like a really good mower for your use. Hydrogear drive, Kawasaki motor, fab. deck, bigger tires. Price seems a little high for an obsolete model, but sometimes the old version is better than the later, and the dealer factors into that too. I'd buy it.

One thing I have learned over the years is to put my glasses in just certain places. Reach in the truck window and put on the dash, never anywhere out side. On the drill press beside the workbench, if under the hood they go in my pocket, and so on. Those things are expensive!

Those are really good close up pictures too. Phone?

Just looked at my bank account and the (stimulus) money was deposited today. And with my later mailed paper tax return I was about the last one to get the first round of stimulus money.

I want my money back!

And how much would replacement batteries cost to repower that machine? But it's pretty amazing what's possible with battery power these days.

Those decks are pretty stout, put a 2" block under it, put it down on low on the block, climb on, raise the deck up, drive over the block.

Chinese tires? Have had new tubes that split while putting them in, just poor quality rubber seems like. And not actually cheap either.

That intake pipe on the old Briggs might be a metal pipe rather than plastic. My money would be on a bad diaphargm between the tank and carb. Keep us posted on what you find.

I looked at both units on Ebay, (used and pretty expensive even at that). Don't see any major differences and with the same Tuff Torq basic model number I'd guess they are pretty much interchangable. Maybe a different wire connector or something that you could swap from the old one. Have you...

First question, are you sure it's actually in the motor? Not in a drive or idler component?

Lots of Chieftain equipment names, didn't see that one. Looks like a Briggs 4 hp, maybe 11ci, electronic ignition, mid 1980s I'd guess. Steel deck mower, probably a big box store branded mower made by another company.

I'd suspect the diaphragm is the culprit. Seems like you covered all the bases with the other stuff.

i'd be a lousy businessman, but I'd get that GT running and mowing, have the customer come and get it, collect the money owed, and give him a list of what else needs to be done to get it 100% with an estimate of the added cost. Might keep from getting in way too deep?

That power bagger sounds interesting too. I like it.

Engine model and code will help. Might have an automatic choke that's not working. Kind of an oddball setup too.

Seems odd that it will keep running if there's a break in the safety wiring circuit. When you turn the key to start do you get a click or any response at all?

And keep in mind that that transmission is known to work fine when cold, reverse gets slow as it warms up, then eventually you lose about 80% of ground speed/power. Some last, some don't but the later models as that one seem to have better luck.

Sort of like a bad battery cable on a car. Everything works, even headlights, hit the starter and get a click. Trick is to pull on the head lights, hit the starter and see if those lights go out and stay out. Bingo. That electricity stuff gets tricky sometimes.

Some heat on that flywheel helps sometimes, right at the center around the shaft.

Sounds like a heat related deal. Have to be the coil or high tension lead failing I'd think.

This sounds like maybe one of two things, unburned fuel build up in the exhaust - one cylinder is dragging the other. The choke adds fuel to the weak cylinder. Check temperature at exhaust outlet on each cylinder to compare. Or (two) a small exhaust leak at the head on one cylinder, possible...

And keep in mind that for low resistance readings the wires on the meter actually give a reading. Need to have a meter that will zero out that.

Max speed about 7 mph. Maybe 5" ground clearance @ front and rear axles. Price is right though.

Used a Lawnboy back when I was a kid, dad bought it to trim with. I liked to mow with that little machine, engine purred, didn't weight anything, cut really nice. I used to mow half the yard with it just for fun. Still in the family, still runs, looks like crap.

I've seen JB Weld on a diesel engine in a semi truck, held up for another million miles I suppose. if the bore and bushings are still true it should work.

Any chance it's leaking from the top seal, under the flywheel, running down the side under the tin?

Bearings are expensive, bushings are cheaper, running a cast crank/cam on an aluminum cast bore is free. I've read there are some Suzuki verticals that do have bearings on the cranks, from their old 2 stroke origins I suspect.

Make sure the choke is opening all the way, put some load on the motor and run it a while. Then take a second look at that plug.

Old school crankcase vent tube. Newer engines have this run to the carburetor intake, keeps the EPA happy.

I'd guess with the cylinder not firing and the actual much lower cylinder pressures and temperatures the engine would not be damaged at this point. Pressure and splash lubrication should have kept wear to a minimum, maybe even less than the other two cylinders that were doing all the work...

Turn key off and on, listen for that solenoid to click, might be gummed up or just bad yet again.

Really a clean looking engine inside, shows good maintenance.

Might pull the spark plugs and give the motor a couple revs with the starter to make sure there's no buildup in the cylinders.

Sometimes the "bigger hammer" or "heat wrench" does work!

https://www.amazon.com/General-Transmissions-GT42737-Grease-EP00/dp/B01MY5B3FV/ref=redir_mobile_desktop/146-1702882-8935028?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Z4L9GiIHL&dpPl=1&keywords=gt42737&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&qid=1485225328&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_1&sr=8-1 You can also get this lube at Tractor Supply in a...

Has that sump base been repaired at some point? JB Weld maybe? Not sure from the picture but something looks odd there.