JonnyBlaze
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 6, 2017
- Threads
- 57
- Messages
- 338
Just saw that. Lol. So how exactly do I measure that? Tolerances don't seem that tight, so I should be good to go. No?
Swapping Contents From One Block To Another Straightforward?
- Thread starter JonnyBlaze
- Start date
Boobala
Lawn Pro
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2015
- Threads
- 200
- Messages
- 7,000
John, I HAD a video of how to set the end play on the crank, (looking for it still) the CORRECT way is using a dial indicator (see pics) you assemble the engine (as though it's final assembly, then check the end-play, if NOT in range then DIS-assemble and use gaskets ..OR.. a thrust washer ( rare) if required, sometimes a few tries required, BUT some guys are able to "feel" the play and determine if it's acceptable to them and they just "button it up " NOT trying to delay you I will try to find the video TODAY, and will post my results later TODAY ! do what YOU have to do, ..... Boo
...
...
you will have to enlarge the pics ....SORRY !! ..
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 24,705
Put the flywheel on the crank and assemble the two halves together.
Clamp or bolt it down.
Put a dial indicator under the bottom of the crank then lever the flywheel up & take a reading
OR measure the distance from the flywheel to the crankcase then lever up and measure again
If you have a good vernier with a depth gauge, measure the length of the PTO shaft to crankshaft seal base ( don't out the seal in yet ) while pushing down on the flywheel then put the levers under it and measure again
Clamp or bolt it down.
Put a dial indicator under the bottom of the crank then lever the flywheel up & take a reading
OR measure the distance from the flywheel to the crankcase then lever up and measure again
If you have a good vernier with a depth gauge, measure the length of the PTO shaft to crankshaft seal base ( don't out the seal in yet ) while pushing down on the flywheel then put the levers under it and measure again
JonnyBlaze
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 6, 2017
- Threads
- 57
- Messages
- 338
Well, I got it together. I will admit that I didn't measure the endplay. It did start up, however, and runs great! Doesn't smoke or anything.
I do have two issues. 1 is with the throttle. I only have a 1/2" of throttle position with the tractors throttle lever. All the way up closes choke completely and 3 or 4 inches down doesn't do anything and then the last 1/2 inch idles down.
2 is the transmission. It doesn't go anywhere. It's a hydrostatic. Whoever pulled the motor took out the single nut on the belt tensioner when they removed the motor. I put the nut back on and tightened tensioner back on but maybe I overtightened it? I just realized it has a stop nut so maybe I did over do it.
John Deere LA125. Only 52 hours.
I do have two issues. 1 is with the throttle. I only have a 1/2" of throttle position with the tractors throttle lever. All the way up closes choke completely and 3 or 4 inches down doesn't do anything and then the last 1/2 inch idles down.
2 is the transmission. It doesn't go anywhere. It's a hydrostatic. Whoever pulled the motor took out the single nut on the belt tensioner when they removed the motor. I put the nut back on and tightened tensioner back on but maybe I overtightened it? I just realized it has a stop nut so maybe I did over do it.
John Deere LA125. Only 52 hours.
JonnyBlaze
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 6, 2017
- Threads
- 57
- Messages
- 338
What do they mean by step 3?
Attachments
Boobala
Lawn Pro
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2015
- Threads
- 200
- Messages
- 7,000
In above pic .. push your throttle lever on the dash, full fwd. loosen the screw on the throttle cable that's on the engine bracket, now move the white plastic throttle cable mount ( by pushing with your fingers ) you will see the CHOKE linkage arm ( top of bracket, the end is a loop ) and main linkage move toward the carb. NOW tighten the clamp screw against the cable jacketing, the hole in the bracket should line up with the hole in the bracket behind it that pushes the choke linkakage fwd. actually, close is good enough , NOW return the dash throttle lever back to idle or off position, check to see that the choke linkage rod, is moved back towards the dash (rearward movement and the main throttle linkakage also moved back,) the idle screw on top of the carb should be resting against it's stop crew, you may have to loosen the cable screw again (just a bit loose) and "jockey" either the white piece or the cable jacket a LITTLE bit, but throttle lever should move FULL fwd. and all the way back to idle moving the linkages full open and full closed !
I hope you understand all that .......
JonnyBlaze
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 6, 2017
- Threads
- 57
- Messages
- 338
Ok, I was right about transmission. I overtightened that nut. So that's fixed.
I followed all the steps above but no real difference. I saw the hole they were talking about and aligned that up. Not sure what's going on.
When they say put tractor throttle in fast position, they dont mean on choke, correct?
