Picked up a used BR 430 - wont start.

[FredBacher]

Unless I've missed something along this discussion, the blower runs fine as long as the air isn't restricted, correct? It idles fine. Sounds like it blows pretty hard.

Yes, 100%. Starts up after a pull or two, will idle all you want, and the air will blow when the trigger is pulled. You can even walk around with the blower blowing things and you'd think it was fine. As soon as anything goes over the air intake though, it dies.

Did you peak inside the ports to see if their was any cylinder scoring?
Is there any build up of oily dirt coming from behind the flywheel?

Ports? Which ports should I be looking at? Like on the carb itself?

I didnt see any dirt from the flywheel or anything behind it. Flywheel is the part the starter cable hooks up to, right, with the magnetic metal round arms that spin when you pull?

 

[StarTech]

Okay let's see if we can get your head out of the fog...

The ports are on the cylinder. They are how the fuel mix gets into the cylinder and how the burnt fuel gets out. Looking at the IPL it looks like the intake manifold (part between the carburetor and cylinder) has to removed to so can look through the port to look at the piston. It is much easier to remove the muffler and look through the exhaust port at the piston. But as the intake could be damaged and not viewable from the exhaust side; although, the intake side cylinder wall can be seen through the exhaust port.

Basically what is being asked is for you to look inside the cylinder for the condition of the piston and cylinder. (PNC)

 

[PTmowerMech]

Yes, 100%. Starts up after a pull or two, will idle all you want, and the air will blow when the trigger is pulled. You can even walk around with the blower blowing things and you'd think it was fine. As soon as anything goes over the air intake though, it dies.



Ports? Which ports should I be looking at? Like on the carb itself?

I didnt see any dirt from the flywheel or anything behind it. Flywheel is the part the starter cable hooks up to, right, with the magnetic metal round arms that spin when you pull?

When you take the carb off, the big hole that goes straight to the piston. Same as when you remove the muffler. Through those ports, you can see the piston go up and down when you spin the flywheel. With the piston all the way down, you can see the cylinder walls. As the piston is going up and down, you can see the condition of the piston.
From the muffler side looking in, if there's any scoring on the cylinder, you might just leave the blower as is and just use the heck out of it. Once a cylinder starts scarring, there's no hope for it, unless you can hone it out and maybe put a set of rings in it.

 

[FredBacher]

Okay folks, been gone for a bit and here is the update. I tried my best to check the carb some more, opened it up, looked at the gaskets, screens, etc. Would not stop leaking. Also found the fuel filter line cracked. Threw in the towel and got a replacement carb and filter kit, after market as I wasn't going to spend $100 on a Sthil for a blower I don't even know works. Primer bulb also replaced as mentioned earlier and one of the fuel lines replaced. Fuel tank has been completely cleaned out and refilled to the top with ethanol free gas mixed with the Sthil brand oil mixture.

This is what I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Stihl-...-0606-C1Q-S220C-C1Q-S209C-Blower/324313839822

Fits in fine, everything works as you would expect with the choke and throttle snapping it open.

Where we are at now:

Engine starts
Engine revs up with choke half way open
Engine idles with choke open
Engine dies when throttle is pulled
I have put back on the air filter and cover. I have not tried any of this with the filter off.

Since everyone likes the video here is what is happening:

https://imgur.com/a/CEz0avM

Sounds pretty good, right? I think once it's warmed up and idling it is pretty decent. Starts so easily I could pull the cord sitting down in front of it and it fires right up and idles great. I futzed around with the L and idle speed screws to get it sounding good. You'd think this was a great blower.

Unfortunately, as you can hear in the video, the throttle kills it almost immediately. I was out there for an hour trying to adjust the H screw and I am getting no where. From completely screwed in to what feels like so far out the screw will fall out. Same result. I am out of ideas.

 

[Fish]

You need to back out the low speed screw out some.

 

[FredBacher]

As an update I have replaced the spark plug and gapped the new one to be .5mm as per the manual.

You need to back out the low speed screw out some.

For this, I think I have, I have backed everything out all over the place. I sat there again this morning with a screw driver on the H and L at times adjusting in and out. II would squeeze handle just a tiny bit, hear it die, turn it 1/8th, pull trigger a little bit, hear it die, let go and turn 1/8th again.

At one point while idling I had it so far backed out I thought the screws would fall out. For every adjustment to the L I went and tried a lot of settings with the H. Maybe I am doing something wrong but same result every time, pull trigger, dead.

Should I be going about this another way? I got the L adjusted to where it will idle nicely without mucking about with the H. Adjust the idle speed up so it would really be running the way I would think it should sound. Tried every setting of H from all the way in to almost all the way out. Pull trigger, dead.

I am getting sad. We're so close to having it running but something is stopping it from being a successful recovery project.

 

[bertsmobile1]

The trick to this is to be able to tell the different sounds of an engine quitting rich & one that quits lean.
What most do not understand is the engine at idles runs 95% on the idle jet & 5% on the high jet ,
This progressively reverses till at WFO you are 95% on the H jet & 5% on the L jet.

Thus they both work together , it is not the ON / OFF situation that most expect .
As you throttle up , around 1/4 throttle you get to the 50:50 point and if both are not right the engine will either flood out or stall all together.
So the very first thing to do is to slide the carb off the studs, turn it sideways, screw IN the L needle fully then blow air through the carb.
If the H needle is working properly you should get a strong mist of fuel out the engine end of the carb.
As you turn down the air flow ( reduce the pressure ) the volume of fuel mist should reduce.
If you can not do this the H circuit is blocked or otherwise faulty.

Cube carbs are tricky because you can get them to run perfect at WFO and perfect at idle but when they got to the 50:50 point the engine stalls because the 2 jets are not working together
The other thing I see regularly is needles in the wrong holes.
This usually wrecks the carb
The H needle is the shorter and generally has a much thicker taper
The L needle is the longer and has a much finner tapered section.

 

[slomo]

1. 0.5mm plug gap sounds small. Hope this is the OEM recommendation.
2. I don't see much smoke when it's running. You said you put Stihl oil in. How much oil did you dump into the gas?
3. To me it seems like a flaky carb. Sometimes saving money on a Chinese carb is not saving money. Put a real OEM Stihl carb on it. I bet your issue will be solved.
4. You said you didn't want to put a lot of money in it until you hear it run. I've seen several videos of it running.
5. Chinese carb kits, well , do I need to elaborate? Some Chinese carbs and kits are fine. Then some are junk. To me it's like gambling.
6. I'll fess up and tell on myself. Is there any chance you are operating the choke lever the wrong way? Yup I'm guilty...... LOL
7. Does it have a strong spark? Get a spark tester and see. Or ground the plug on the block and check it that way. Make a video of your spark test.
8. Muffler seems wide open. Look elsewhere.
9. How about a vacuum leak at the carb? Most guys over torque those tiny bolts that secure the carb and warp that black block slash manifold deal.
10. Order new exhaust gaskets to replace the one that crumbled.
11. Strip it down to verify intake and exhaust ports IN the block are clear. Might need to decarbon that little fella'.

Summation, over 90% of the time on used OPE, the carb is the issue. You need air, spark, fuel and compression. Stick with these basics.

slomo.

 

[Fish]

Again, I'll ask.
Is the primer/purge bulb hooked up correctly?
It can be hooked up backwards.

 

[Fish]

And, did you ever look at the piston on the intake or exhaust side?