LGT, 2654, Kohler, Electrical Issues, PTO Switch, Fuse melting,

[ILENGINE]

Let me some up. Just want to get you the right info. this is now the 3rd time that both the switch and fuse went out at the same time. So do you think the Clutch is the problem or something else going on? I hate to buy the clutch if it is not bad. You think I might have a short somewhere if not the clutch?

There could be a short in the wiring but could also be a clutch that is shorting out only when hot under certain circumstances. If you don't want to purchase the clutch outright. Replace the switch and the main fuse, but also tap into the power wire to the clutch and install a 7.5 amp fuse holder as discussed before. The run it. If the fuse blows then the clutch is bad and that small of fuse should protect the switch.

Worked on a Scag for a commercial customer years ago that would blow the main fuse after running like an hour, which would also kill the engine. Customer would replace the fuse and get the mower started and continue with his mowing until it blew again. I ended up installing a 7.5 amp fuse in the wire to the clutch and that way it would only blow that fuse and not shut the mower down. After a couple times of it happening we were sure it was a bad clutch, but only would fail when hot. So over a weekend when he wasn't trying to use it he let me have it and I mowed my yard with it. I tested the resistance of the clutch when cold and got something like 3.1 ohms. After it blew the fuse I immediately checked the resistance on the clutch at it was .3 ohms so would only short when hot.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Unplug the clutch and have a close look at the wiring.
The wires often chaff or break off at the plug or where they enter the clutch if it is a pig tail .
I had a couple of Huskys with a cable tie in the wrong place so the PTO wire could touch the pulley.

 

[Cool-Ace]

There could be a short in the wiring but could also be a clutch that is shorting out only when hot under certain circumstances. If you don't want to purchase the clutch outright. Replace the switch and the main fuse, but also tap into the power wire to the clutch and install a 7.5 amp fuse holder as discussed before. The run it. If the fuse blows then the clutch is bad and that small of fuse should protect the switch.

Worked on a Scag for a commercial customer years ago that would blow the main fuse after running like an hour, which would also kill the engine. Customer would replace the fuse and get the mower started and continue with his mowing until it blew again. I ended up installing a 7.5 amp fuse in the wire to the clutch and that way it would only blow that fuse and not shut the mower down. After a couple times of it happening we were sure it was a bad clutch, but only would fail when hot. So over a weekend when he wasn't trying to use it he let me have it and I mowed my yard with it. I tested the resistance of the clutch when cold and got something like 3.1 ohms. After it blew the fuse I immediately checked the resistance on the clutch at it was .3 ohms so would only short when hot.

OK I will get one tomorrow and give it a go see how it works out. I do know that this last time it blew out fuse and switch within a few mins less than 5 for sure. I did not even get to mow one blade of grass. Still it could be the trouble maker.

 

[Cool-Ace]

Unplug the clutch and have a close look at the wiring.
The wires often chaff or break off at the plug or where they enter the clutch if it is a pig tail .
I had a couple of Huskys with a cable tie in the wrong place so the PTO wire could touch the pulley.

I have checked for any bare wires and even pulled the clutch off the mower to give it a good looking over all the wires are out of the way and no slack for them to move into the belt or pullies. The only place I can think there could be is inside the plastic wire harness. That was on my list to check if nothing else turn up. Thank you

 

[bertsmobile1]

To isolate the mowers wiring from the clutch I unplug the clutch then run the mower around the yard with the PTO switch on.
If nothing happens then it is the clutch itself
While electrical testing is good, it is also a moot point because the clutch is not a servicable part .
I did one time pull the wiring and sit the clutch on the floor between my feet turning it on & off to try & replicate the owners symptoms.
However going back to what has already been posted, I can in some cases fix a broken wire but apart from that there are no service parts available
So the situation is the same as for magnetos
It either works so the problem is in the mowers wiring or it does not work so it gets replaced .

 

[Cool-Ace]

There could be a short in the wiring but could also be a clutch that is shorting out only when hot under certain circumstances. If you don't want to purchase the clutch outright. Replace the switch and the main fuse, but also tap into the power wire to the clutch and install a 7.5 amp fuse holder as discussed before. The run it. If the fuse blows then the clutch is bad and that small of fuse should protect the switch.

Worked on a Scag for a commercial customer years ago that would blow the main fuse after running like an hour, which would also kill the engine. Customer would replace the fuse and get the mower started and continue with his mowing until it blew again. I ended up installing a 7.5 amp fuse in the wire to the clutch and that way it would only blow that fuse and not shut the mower down. After a couple times of it happening we were sure it was a bad clutch, but only would fail when hot. So over a weekend when he wasn't trying to use it he let me have it and I mowed my yard with it. I tested the resistance of the clutch when cold and got something like 3.1 ohms. After it blew the fuse I immediately checked the resistance on the clutch at it was .3 ohms so would only short when hot.

I got the fuse holder to wire in for 7.5 amp.?? Where should I place it? On power side going to clutch? Also I want to put this before the pigtail so if clutch is bad it will always be there. Right? I think wires are black and other is white. Black would be hot? To bad no one has a photo of this set up. May have to make one

 

[ILENGINE]

You want the fuse on the power side before the pigtail. Most likely black could be power side but I would check with either a test light or a meter to make sure they are not using the white wire for power. You want power side of the harness in case the clutch shorts directly to clutch housing ground.

 

[Cool-Ace]

You want the fuse on the power side before the pigtail. Most likely black could be power side but I would check with either a test light or a meter to make sure they are not using the white wire for power. You want power side of the harness in case the clutch shorts directly to clutch housing ground.

OK Great. Thank you. I will update after I get the new switch and I need to add this fuse holder and replace the main fuse holder too as it is bad melted. -Ace

 

[Cool-Ace]

Well Not what I was expecting when I stated to replace old fuse holder. May or may not be the main problem and won't know until I get it all back together and rewired and not fried together. it looked like a melted mess but came down to just 3 red wires 2 for the fuse block but I have not traced the 3rd one back yet but going to say maybe the clutch as it is one black and one red. adding in a pic.

 

[Rlh14]

Same issue on my Ferris. After numerous fuse holders and switches traced issue to clutch. Replaced and ran great. Not a hard job but clutch is heavy and a challenge to hold up and get bolted on. Of course now, after two years I have other darn electrical aggravations but PTO works fine?