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LGT, 2654, Kohler, Electrical Issues, PTO Switch, Fuse melting,

#1

Cool-Ace

Cool-Ace

Hi to all the mower Mec's, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 that the PTO switch keeps going bad. I think I have replaced it 3 times and now need another. I am not sure why it is going bad but you know the fuse that is on the wiring harness it had a 30 or 35 in it when it went out the 1st time so I reduced it to a 25 then this last time to a 20 but the fuse still melts down. It has me wondering if the PTO it self might be making it get hot because it is bad? I can replace the switch and fuse and runs fine for a while before going out. If anyone has any idea what the main problem might be please let me know. Wires on PTO are good and as best I can tell the PTO is OK but I could be wrong.


#2

I

ILENGINE

Melting fuse to me would indicate a bad connection in that area. Resistance causes heat. But you could also unplug the pto clutch and do a resistance reading between the two wires. Normal would be 2.3-3.3 ohms give or take a small amount.


#3

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ILENGINE said:
Melting fuse to me would indicate a bad connection in that area. Resistance causes heat. But you could also unplug the pto clutch and do a resistance reading between the two wires. Normal would be 2.3-3.3 ohms give or take a small amount.
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Thank you I will check it tomorrow. I seen a video on YouTube sometime back when the 1st switch went bad. I also remember another video that showed how to do just what you said. Up until now I thought is was OK but after what your telling me that sounds like my problem. I reveille my finds tomorrow afternoon. :)


#4

I

ILENGINE

Cool-Ace said:
Thank you I will check it tomorrow. I seen a video on YouTube sometime back when the 1st switch went bad. I also remember another video that showed how to do just what you said. Up until now I thought is was OK but after what your telling me that sounds like my problem. I reveille my finds tomorrow afternoon. :)
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Had one in the shop last year that didn't blow the 20 amp fuse but melted the pto switch. The clutch tested at .5 ohms which is a draw of 24 amps. Maybe with some other brands also but it always seems like the JD mowers if the clutch goes bad it also takes out the pto switch.

Here is example of a extreme case were a bad pto clutch lead to me wanting to choke the engineer. Pto clutch went bad and cooked the pto switch. But in this case when it went it blew the fuse on the printed circuit board module on the mower. And on some JD mowers the key switch is part of the interloc module board. Now get this the two fuses on the circuit board had been soldered into there fuse holders, and appeared to be that way from the factory. So I had to replace the pto clutch, pto switch, interloc board and the key switch since the new setup has a separate key switch from the board.


#5

StarTech

StarTech

And just think it all could be prevented if the OEMs would install an extra 7.5 fuse and holder but that is a few pennies too much. I am surprised that there is not more PTO switches melted down considering they are only rated for 10 amps.max.

Here I usually add a 7.5 fuse and holder on clutch replacements.Yes it is a few dollars more but considering the price different between an OEM and after market clutch it is nil.


#6

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ILENGINE said:
Had one in the shop last year that didn't blow the 20 amp fuse but melted the pto switch. The clutch tested at .5 ohms which is a draw of 24 amps. Maybe with some other brands also but it always seems like the JD mowers if the clutch goes bad it also takes out the pto switch.

Here is example of a extreme case were a bad pto clutch lead to me wanting to choke the engineer. Pto clutch went bad and cooked the pto switch. But in this case when it went it blew the fuse on the printed circuit board module on the mower. And on some JD mowers the key switch is part of the interloc module board. Now get this the two fuses on the circuit board had been soldered into there fuse holders, and appeared to be that way from the factory. So I had to replace the pto clutch, pto switch, interloc board and the key switch since the new setup has a separate key switch from the board.
Click to expand...
I can't help but laugh, but is nice to know I am not the only person that hate's the JD mower or their problems. We have one a 42 inch was my mother in-law's. can't keep a belt on it or the cable stretches out and needs to be replaced and if that is not the only problem then it is the blade brakes wear out so fast. btw not got out yet to check the oms on the pto clutch. will do that soon


#7

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StarTech said:
And just think it all could be prevented if the OEMs would install an extra 7.5 fuse and holder but that is a few pennies too much. I am surprised that there is not more PTO switches melted down considering they are only rated for 10 amps.max.

Here I usually add a 7.5 fuse and holder on clutch replacements.Yes it is a few dollars more but considering the price different between an OEM and after market clutch it is nil.
Click to expand...
I like your thinking I am going to order one this afternoon from Ebay. I got to get a few things from there anyway. Thank you.


#8

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ILENGINE said:
Had one in the shop last year that didn't blow the 20 amp fuse but melted the pto switch. The clutch tested at .5 ohms which is a draw of 24 amps. Maybe with some other brands also but it always seems like the JD mowers if the clutch goes bad it also takes out the pto switch.

Here is example of a extreme case were a bad pto clutch lead to me wanting to choke the engineer. Pto clutch went bad and cooked the pto switch. But in this case when it went it blew the fuse on the printed circuit board module on the mower. And on some JD mowers the key switch is part of the interloc module board. Now get this the two fuses on the circuit board had been soldered into there fuse holders, and appeared to be that way from the factory. So I had to replace the pto clutch, pto switch, interloc board and the key switch since the new setup has a separate key switch from the board.
Click to expand...
I got around to checking the ohms, meter not in front of me but I think it had 5.2 showing. From what I have been told ( maybe by you ;) ) that it means bad pto if it is over 2.5 plus it took out the fuse and switch this time the fuse holder was even to hot so have to get another of those. This was a nice mower at 800 but I think everything that could go wrong has I soon had replace the tie rods and then dang barring's in front wheel went out even cut the center out of the rim. I also had to buy new tires one get eat up when it broke. Oh then I found too that a valve cover was leaking oil so replaced the gasket, Not just once but it was still leaking thought I did something wrong. Well after another new gasket and a new valve cover it is fixed. I also had to replace blades then broke the ears or tabs of one of the mandrels. I had to buy me a back up mower this is a 4000 Craftsmen 26 B&S 54 $200 and have had to use it most all summer and not an issue with it yet. I wish I could find a few more just like it ;)


#9

I

ILENGINE

5.2 ohms would create a low amp draw when compared to normal. Wouldn't take out the switch or fuse but could cause engagement issues. Could also be a possibility that it shorts out when hot also.

most clutches range in the 2.5-3.5 range where others will specify 2.3-3.3.


#10

Cool-Ace

Cool-Ace

ILENGINE said:
5.2 ohms would create a low amp draw when compared to normal. Wouldn't take out the switch or fuse but could cause engagement issues. Could also be a possibility that it shorts out when hot also.

most clutches range in the 2.5-3.5 range where others will specify 2.3-3.3.
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Let me some up. Just want to get you the right info. :) this is now the 3rd time that both the switch and fuse went out at the same time. So do you think the Clutch is the problem or something else going on? I hate to buy the clutch if it is not bad. You think I might have a short somewhere if not the clutch?


#11

I

ILENGINE

Cool-Ace said:
Let me some up. Just want to get you the right info. :) this is now the 3rd time that both the switch and fuse went out at the same time. So do you think the Clutch is the problem or something else going on? I hate to buy the clutch if it is not bad. You think I might have a short somewhere if not the clutch?
Click to expand...
There could be a short in the wiring but could also be a clutch that is shorting out only when hot under certain circumstances. If you don't want to purchase the clutch outright. Replace the switch and the main fuse, but also tap into the power wire to the clutch and install a 7.5 amp fuse holder as discussed before. The run it. If the fuse blows then the clutch is bad and that small of fuse should protect the switch.

Worked on a Scag for a commercial customer years ago that would blow the main fuse after running like an hour, which would also kill the engine. Customer would replace the fuse and get the mower started and continue with his mowing until it blew again. I ended up installing a 7.5 amp fuse in the wire to the clutch and that way it would only blow that fuse and not shut the mower down. After a couple times of it happening we were sure it was a bad clutch, but only would fail when hot. So over a weekend when he wasn't trying to use it he let me have it and I mowed my yard with it. I tested the resistance of the clutch when cold and got something like 3.1 ohms. After it blew the fuse I immediately checked the resistance on the clutch at it was .3 ohms so would only short when hot.


#12

B

bertsmobile1

Unplug the clutch and have a close look at the wiring.
The wires often chaff or break off at the plug or where they enter the clutch if it is a pig tail .
I had a couple of Huskys with a cable tie in the wrong place so the PTO wire could touch the pulley.


#13

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ILENGINE said:
There could be a short in the wiring but could also be a clutch that is shorting out only when hot under certain circumstances. If you don't want to purchase the clutch outright. Replace the switch and the main fuse, but also tap into the power wire to the clutch and install a 7.5 amp fuse holder as discussed before. The run it. If the fuse blows then the clutch is bad and that small of fuse should protect the switch.

Worked on a Scag for a commercial customer years ago that would blow the main fuse after running like an hour, which would also kill the engine. Customer would replace the fuse and get the mower started and continue with his mowing until it blew again. I ended up installing a 7.5 amp fuse in the wire to the clutch and that way it would only blow that fuse and not shut the mower down. After a couple times of it happening we were sure it was a bad clutch, but only would fail when hot. So over a weekend when he wasn't trying to use it he let me have it and I mowed my yard with it. I tested the resistance of the clutch when cold and got something like 3.1 ohms. After it blew the fuse I immediately checked the resistance on the clutch at it was .3 ohms so would only short when hot.
Click to expand...
OK I will get one tomorrow and give it a go see how it works out. I do know that this last time it blew out fuse and switch within a few mins less than 5 for sure. I did not even get to mow one blade of grass. Still it could be the trouble maker.


#14

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bertsmobile1 said:
Unplug the clutch and have a close look at the wiring.
The wires often chaff or break off at the plug or where they enter the clutch if it is a pig tail .
I had a couple of Huskys with a cable tie in the wrong place so the PTO wire could touch the pulley.
Click to expand...
I have checked for any bare wires and even pulled the clutch off the mower to give it a good looking over all the wires are out of the way and no slack for them to move into the belt or pullies. The only place I can think there could be is inside the plastic wire harness. That was on my list to check if nothing else turn up. Thank you


#15

B

bertsmobile1

To isolate the mowers wiring from the clutch I unplug the clutch then run the mower around the yard with the PTO switch on.
If nothing happens then it is the clutch itself
While electrical testing is good, it is also a moot point because the clutch is not a servicable part .
I did one time pull the wiring and sit the clutch on the floor between my feet turning it on & off to try & replicate the owners symptoms.
However going back to what has already been posted, I can in some cases fix a broken wire but apart from that there are no service parts available
So the situation is the same as for magnetos
It either works so the problem is in the mowers wiring or it does not work so it gets replaced .


#16

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Cool-Ace

ILENGINE said:
There could be a short in the wiring but could also be a clutch that is shorting out only when hot under certain circumstances. If you don't want to purchase the clutch outright. Replace the switch and the main fuse, but also tap into the power wire to the clutch and install a 7.5 amp fuse holder as discussed before. The run it. If the fuse blows then the clutch is bad and that small of fuse should protect the switch.

Worked on a Scag for a commercial customer years ago that would blow the main fuse after running like an hour, which would also kill the engine. Customer would replace the fuse and get the mower started and continue with his mowing until it blew again. I ended up installing a 7.5 amp fuse in the wire to the clutch and that way it would only blow that fuse and not shut the mower down. After a couple times of it happening we were sure it was a bad clutch, but only would fail when hot. So over a weekend when he wasn't trying to use it he let me have it and I mowed my yard with it. I tested the resistance of the clutch when cold and got something like 3.1 ohms. After it blew the fuse I immediately checked the resistance on the clutch at it was .3 ohms so would only short when hot.
Click to expand...
I got the fuse holder to wire in for 7.5 amp.?? Where should I place it? On power side going to clutch? Also I want to put this before the pigtail so if clutch is bad it will always be there. Right? I think wires are black and other is white. Black would be hot? To bad no one has a photo of this set up. ;) May have to make one :)


#17

I

ILENGINE

You want the fuse on the power side before the pigtail. Most likely black could be power side but I would check with either a test light or a meter to make sure they are not using the white wire for power. You want power side of the harness in case the clutch shorts directly to clutch housing ground.


#18

Cool-Ace

Cool-Ace

ILENGINE said:
You want the fuse on the power side before the pigtail. Most likely black could be power side but I would check with either a test light or a meter to make sure they are not using the white wire for power. You want power side of the harness in case the clutch shorts directly to clutch housing ground.
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OK Great. Thank you. I will update after I get the new switch and I need to add this fuse holder and replace the main fuse holder too as it is bad melted. :cool:-Ace


#19

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Cool-Ace

Well Not what I was expecting when I stated to replace old fuse holder. May or may not be the main problem and won't know until I get it all back together and rewired and not fried together. it looked like a melted mess but came down to just 3 red wires 2 for the fuse block but I have not traced the 3rd one back yet but going to say maybe the clutch as it is one black and one red. adding in a pic. :( 20210824_144245.jpg


#20

R

Rlh14

Same issue on my Ferris. After numerous fuse holders and switches traced issue to clutch. Replaced and ran great. Not a hard job but clutch is heavy and a challenge to hold up and get bolted on. Of course now, after two years I have other darn electrical aggravations but PTO works fine?


#21

B

biggertv

Clutch is getting Worn, more distance between Plates equals more Current when engaged. Very similar to A/C clutch on a vehicle. Replace or Adjust. Could be Dirt or Debris in clutch. Blow it out with compressed air. Some Electric clutches have shims(washers) you can remove to compensate for wear. Good Luck!


#22

M

Mower bandit

Replace the pto clutch and that should fix all your problems


#23

Cool-Ace

Cool-Ace

First I want to say Thank you everyone for the helpful replies. After going thru and making many repairs to melted wiring most likely started by previous owner who slipped in a 35 amp fuse to make a quick sell. I replace the fuse holder put in the required 20 amp fuse, replaced the PTO switch and 2 wires coming from it as well part of 2 wires going the the hour meter not sure why they had it wired thru the clutch, the fuse and the switch but all fixed and wired in a fuse holder to the clutch. Fired it up started fine switched on mowed maybe 2 to 4 foot when I hear it stop blades. So inconclusion it took out the 7.5 fuse but saved everything else. So confirmed the clutch is bad. Biggertv said I could adjust the clutch but I have a feeing it has been done and just wore out so going to order one. Again Thank you for your help. :)


#24

M

Marlebone

I seem to have the same problem, clutch replaced and fuse amp increased from 20 to 26. Mower ran about 10 hours and then quit. We can get this fixed. Ideas?


#25

Cool-Ace

Cool-Ace

Marlebone said:
I seem to have the same problem, clutch replaced and fuse amp increased from 20 to 26. Mower ran about 10 hours and then quit. We can get this fixed. Ideas?
Click to expand...
After I spent about 100$ for new PTO cut wire as it had wrong pigtail and put it on it again blew the fuse. My problem may or may not have been the PTO so I kept my old one as both tested the same ohms. The real problem was who ever put in the 30 amp fuse has cause the wires to get to hot and melted together letting wires to cross each other burning out even more wires. I fixed and spliced about 6 or 7 wires in all but that has fixed my issue. I am still looking for old mower with same wire harness to replace all the wiring. See it even cause it to keep blowing out the PTO Switch and just glad it neve caught on fire. there is a reason why not to got up bigger on fuses. I am now running I think a 10 amp or maybe 7.5 what the book calls for. Hope you don't get this problem burn up you wires. Make sure to clean the wires and double check to be sure they are not stuck/melted together.

:cool:-Ace


#26

M

Marlebone

Thanks


#27

M

Marlebone

my Ferris is a IS 3000zx bought in 2006 with 1550 hours. I run it about 100 hrs a season, So, your comments about some old mower parts intrigues me. We are having no luck at all with new parts trying to fit an old machine. And, I caught a whiff of something hot just before the PTO shut down. Local repairman to pick it up for more repair, but we cannot seem to get this right.


#28

Cool-Ace

Cool-Ace

Marlebone said:
my Ferris is a IS 3000zx bought in 2006 with 1550 hours. I run it about 100 hrs a season, So, your comments about some old mower parts intrigues me. We are having no luck at all with new parts trying to fit an old machine. And, I caught a whiff of something hot just before the PTO shut down. Local repairman to pick it up for more repair, but we cannot seem to get this right.
Click to expand...
This sounds like you have a Zero turn. IDK anything about them. I stick with the AYP line they are easy to works on as they all pretty much the same once you remove the hood. ;) Maybe your repair man will find the issue. I used to run mostly the 42 inch but moving to this place in 08 with 3 acres at 80% grass I needed to keep 2 or 3 going all the time. Mosly due to breaking the deck spindles. Big flaw with them 3 bolt type not strong enough cast aluminum. so got a few 48s and 54 going plus I use a front scape blade on one and got a scoop in front of another great for moving some much around for the misses! :)


#29

M

Marlebone

yes, zero turn..up until this year, it has been a trooper, comfortable, gets the job done ..I am just hoping someone who reads this might have an idea, it is expensive and it keeps having the same problem, makes me crazy.


#30

Cool-Ace

Cool-Ace

Marlebone said:
yes, zero turn..up until this year, it has been a trooper, comfortable, gets the job done ..I am just hoping someone who reads this might have an idea, it is expensive and it keeps having the same problem, makes me crazy.
Click to expand...
Have you read all the responses I have got in this post? like 3 pages of them and these guys helped me find my problem with checking and looking over every little wire. Had I not pulled out my battery I may never had seen the melted wires. You may want to pull the PTO clutch and see if it will keep running with it off or at least unplug it from power.


#31

M

Marlebone

Out for service, again.. Engine runs fine. They just can't seem to get the new clutch, new PTO and numerous fuses to work together to turn the blades. The only good thing about this is that it is November and grass growing is pretty much over in this area..


#32

Cool-Ace

Cool-Ace

Have they replace or checked the PTO switch? There are a few videos on YouTube you might want to watch is you have any mechanical skills.


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