Don't tear down an engine just to do it,first thing is to do a leak down test,or at least a compression test...if your compression is low on one side,you know where to start..if not I'd verify you have the correct dipstick in,and change the oil,add exactly 2 quarts with a filter, it'll take 2.1 if it has an oil cooler....it looks contaminated with water...also I'd check your governor settings it sounds like your over revving the engine,and thats when it spews oil....it should run at 3750 rpm with no load,no higher...from my experience I believe it likely has a blown head gasket,but that is pretty rare on the smaller commands,it's only been an issue on the 25/26/27/28 hp engines with the bigger bore...good luck.
kohler engine spewing liquid out of breather
- Thread starter newbe101
- Start date
Don't tear down an engine just to do it,first thing is to do a leak down test,or at least a compression test...if your compression is low on one side,you know where to start..if not I'd verify you have the correct dipstick in,and change the oil,add exactly 2 quarts with a filter, it'll take 2.1 if it has an oil cooler....it looks contaminated with water...also I'd check your governor settings it sounds like your over revving the engine,and thats when it spews oil....it should run at 3750 rpm with no load,no higher...from my experience I believe it likely has a blown head gasket,but that is pretty rare on the smaller commands,it's only been an issue on the 25/26/27/28 hp engines with the bigger bore...good luck.
Definitely sounds like the crankcase is being pressurized. Blow by? Bad rings? Scored cylinders walls?
Sounds like it time for rebuild. Hone out the cylinder walls, new rings and pistons? As already mentioned, a compression check is in order.
Sounds like it time for rebuild. Hone out the cylinder walls, new rings and pistons? As already mentioned, a compression check is in order.
Well I tried to start it yesterday and now I cant even get it to start or even sound like it has pressure so I said either way I will need to do something so I took the heads off. The cylinder walls looked great, very smooth no scaring. Look at the pictures on the PDF file I hope they tell the story. The right side has a bad head gasket but the area in the break I don't know what the chamber is. The left cylinder and the head gasket look good but it almost looks like part of it was leaking as if it wasn't tightly sealed.
Your opinion is always welcome.
Your opinion is always welcome.
Definitely the cause of your problem is a blown head gasket. The passage way in question is the crankcase vent, a direct passage between the valve chamber and the crankcase. Cleaning everything and properly installing new head gaskets and valve cover gaskets should solve your problems. To tired to check back and see if someone posted a service manual, so I'll include one to help you out.
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Koh...ual-Command-CH18-CH20-CH22-CH23-CH25-CH26.pdf
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Koh...ual-Command-CH18-CH20-CH22-CH23-CH25-CH26.pdf
Well I have everything almost back together. Only thing left is the electrical. I had it running and the engine seems to be working good but I don't have it out for a proper test yet.
I am having a problem with it running and its the carburetor solenoid. Solenoid works fine (I think). When you turn it to start the plunger engages to allow fuel to flow but soon as you release the key from the start position it goes back to closing the fuel so the engine dies. Is that right? Shouldn't it stay in the open position until the key is turned all the way to the left to off position? The solenoid is hooked up in the factory harness to the starter solenoid so what gives then? I really don't want to rig it where I am butchering the solenoid.
I am having a problem with it running and its the carburetor solenoid. Solenoid works fine (I think). When you turn it to start the plunger engages to allow fuel to flow but soon as you release the key from the start position it goes back to closing the fuel so the engine dies. Is that right? Shouldn't it stay in the open position until the key is turned all the way to the left to off position? The solenoid is hooked up in the factory harness to the starter solenoid so what gives then? I really don't want to rig it where I am butchering the solenoid.
EngineMan
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Check the key switch because solenoid should remain on (live) when key is in the run position (ignition on) and turn off when you turn the key to the off position.