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kohler engine spewing liquid out of breather

#1

N

newbe101

I have a Cushman Truckster, so its not a lawnmower but it has the Kohler Command 18 engine, model CH18S. The unit was running really strong and fast this spring and all of a sodden while driving I lost power and died. Eventually I can start it now and then but couldn't get enough power out of it to move. When I took of the air filter it had a small pool of gray / black liquid that had the viscosity of water, however engine is air cooled.

See the video showing it spewing out liquid.

I hope someone can tell me what the problem is. I need to get this going as this is the way I transport my firewood across the 3 acres.

Kohler Command 18 Model CH18S - YouTube


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#2

I

ILENGINE

Check the oil and make sure it isn't overfilled, and also smell it to see if it smells like gas. I suspect the float needle isn't sealing and the crankcase is full of gas.


#3

N

newbe101

ILENGINE said:
Check the oil and make sure it isn't overfilled, and also smell it to see if it smells like gas. I suspect the float needle isn't sealing and the crankcase is full of gas.
Click to expand...


I replaced the whole carburetor, it was cheaper then the rebuild kit. It worked like a dream for couple of days and then it started stalling out again. I checked the oil is not over filled and it is gray in color. The fuel cant just be leaking in because it has a mechanical fuel pump, doesn't it?

Is there anywhere that would allow fuel to get into the oil other? There is no spewing of liquid out of the breather this time.


#4

reynoldston

reynoldston

The video you are showing has nothing to do with the carburetor. The tube that the liquid is coming out of is the crankcase vent. As a engine runs the crankcase will build up air pressure and that tube vents it into the air cleaner. On that engine if you follow that tube it go's to the valve cover. This tells me you have a oil or internal engine problem. As said earlier post gas in oil. Now you did change the oil also and it is at its proper level? If not start there. I would say if you installed a new carburetor you are going about this repair all wrong. Bad piston or rings?


#5

P

pontiac69

Has this problem been taken care of. I have a sear craftsman mower 16hp and all of a sudden this started happening to mine. I pulled the air filter off and ran the machine and the oil starts off slow flowing from the breather tube into the air filter box, then it starts flowing like the Nile. Tons of white smoke and runs starts to studder like its going to stall. Could i just block off or pinch this breather tube.


#6

reynoldston

reynoldston

pontiac69 said:
Has this problem been taken care of. I have a sear craftsman mower 16hp and all of a sudden this started happening to mine. I pulled the air filter off and ran the machine and the oil starts off slow flowing from the breather tube into the air filter box, then it starts flowing like the Nile. Tons of white smoke and runs starts to studder like its going to stall. Could i just block off or pinch this breather tube.
Click to expand...

If you close off the crankcase vent tube the pressure has to go somewhere. It will blow out the oil seals, gaskets, and then you will really have a mess. I would say the best way to get around it would be to do like some of the old Harley Davidson motorcycles do. The put a catch can at the end of the tube and when the can gets full empty it.


#7

P

pontiac69

reynoldston said:
If you close off the crankcase vent tube the pressure has to go somewhere. It will blow out the oil seals, gaskets, and then you will really have a mess. I would say the best way to get around it would be to do like some of the old Harley Davidson motorcycles do. The put a catch can at the end of the tube and when the can gets full empty it.
Click to expand...

Cant do a catch can unless it can be routed back into the engine. I would be out of oil in no time as fast as its flowing into the carb. I did a fresh oil change yesterday and i see today its low on the dipstick. This was just after testing a few things.

Could the breather just be bad. I guess i can just spend the 25 bucks and get a new one but hate to spend money if i dont have to.


#8

reynoldston

reynoldston

newbe101 said:
I have a Cushman Truckster, so its not a lawnmower but it has the Kohler Command 18 engine, model CH18S. The unit was running really strong and fast this spring and all of a sodden while driving I lost power and died. Eventually I can start it now and then but couldn't get enough power out of it to move. When I took of the air filter it had a small pool of gray / black liquid that had the viscosity of water, however engine is air cooled.

See the video showing it spewing out liquid.

I hope someone can tell me what the problem is. I need to get this going as this is the way I transport my firewood across the 3 acres.

Kohler Command 18 Model CH18S - YouTube

Click to expand...

The Kohler CH has to be a horizontal engine and it the same style engine that is in some lawn tractors. It looks like Cushman put this engine in some of its bikes. I know that some of the early snowmobiles used the Kohler engines but they were too heavy and slow. So doses your bike have a small pick up truck box like some of the ATVs have? Seeing you are hauling fire wood with it must be geared high to get more pulling power. Is it also set up to run on the road or is it off road only. Would like to see some pictures of the complete bike also.


#9

reynoldston

reynoldston

pontiac69 said:
Cant do a catch can unless it can be routed back into the engine. I would be out of oil in no time as fast as its flowing into the carb. I did a fresh oil change yesterday and i see today its low on the dipstick. This was just after testing a few things.

Could the breather just be bad. I guess i can just spend the 25 bucks and get a new one but hate to spend money if i dont have to.
Click to expand...

No the breather or carburetor is not the problem. Read my earlier post. Its a internal engine problem. Sorry I just can't sugar coat this but I am sure someone can. I do see you did a oil change and assume its the right level. The next step is to find out where the excess pressure is coming from. You can pressurize the cylinders with compress air to test the rings and pistons for bypass. If oil is coming out crankcase tube so fast that it would fill a catch can it think the problem is going to be easy to find.


#10

P

pontiac69

reynoldston said:
No the breather or carburetor is not the problem. Read my earlier post. Its a internal engine problem. Sorry I just can't sugar coat this but I am sure someone can. I do see you did a oil change and assume its the right level. The next step is to find out where the excess pressure is coming from. You can pressurize the cylinders with compress air to test the rings and pistons for bypass. If oil is coming out crankcase tube so fast that it would fill a catch can it think the problem is going to be easy to find.
Click to expand...


If i could make a video it would look like this with the hose off the air filter. This guy said his problem was the oil cap was loose. Not the case for me.

What i just did was try to make my own breather for the crank case. I drapped a rag over the oil fill tube with the dipstick out. I put rubber band around it so that the dipstick tube to hold the rag onto it. Now can let excess pressure out, acting like a breather. This did nothing and still had alot of oil pouring into the air filter.

Riding lawnmower wouldn't start due to oil going back into carb. - YouTube


#11

D

DaveTN

I agree...doesn't sound like a carburetor / breather / filter problem. Something internal causing too much "blow by" from excess pressure in the crankcase and as one mechanic said earlier it's got to go someplace. Perhaps an Oil ring broken, too much gap in the rings, loose rings, ring stuck closed due to cruddy, nasty oil and deposits etc. I remember an old trick we used to do years ago on old cars that had a "draft tube" before they had the PCV valve. I'd put the thick steel wool or the stainless steel scrubbing pads pulled out thin and put down in the vent tube going back down to the crankcase. What it would do is condense the oil and funnel it back down into pan. It was I grant you only a temporary fix, but I've used it on several engines over the years. Just don't want to cram so much down in their to stop the flow. Just about 1/2 way down and loose fit should work. Worth a try and then go into the engine this winter when you have time. But like reynoldston says, no need to sugar coat it.


#12

reynoldston

reynoldston

pontiac69 said:
Has this problem been taken care of. I have a sear craftsman mower 16hp and all of a sudden this started happening to mine. I pulled the air filter off and ran the machine and the oil starts off slow flowing from the breather tube into the air filter box, then it starts flowing like the Nile. Tons of white smoke and runs starts to studder like its going to stall. Could i just block off or pinch this breather tube.
Click to expand...

You have a craftsman with what engine in it? The person that started the thread has a Kohler command. If you have a Kohler in your craftsman I am going to take a guess its a Kohler courage. Two different engines but the same problem and same type of repairs.


#13

kybowmaker

kybowmaker

Smell the oil,if it has gas smell neddle in carb is hanging with trash.

Sent from my iPhone using LMF


#14

R

Rivets

I suspect a blown head gasket, common problem with these engines.


#15

P

pontiac69

Its a sears craftsman mower with a 16hp briggs motor. No smell of gas in the oil. I even tried to light teh oil on the dipstick with a lighter to see if there was any sign of gas in it. Nothing.

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#16

reynoldston

reynoldston

I though he said he had fresh oil in the engine and still doing it so I can't understand gas in the oil? Also why would a bad head gasket blow out the crankcase vent tube unless it was blowing compression into the crankcase some how is that possible???


#17

Fish

Fish

The head gasket usually blows out the thin strip between the piston and pushrod gallery, thus sending compression into the crankcase. Kohler sells
an updated bolt/gasket set.


#18

reynoldston

reynoldston

Fish said:
The head gasket usually blows out the thin strip between the piston and pushrod gallery, thus sending compression into the crankcase. Kohler sells
an updated bolt/gasket set.
Click to expand...

Number 15 post, Briggs but yes could be.


#19

R

Rivets

If it is blowing out as much as he says, it may also be a combination of head gasket and bad rings. I still suspect the gasket. I have seen some blown so bad I don't know how they ran.


#20

Fish

Fish

reynoldston said:
Number 15 post, Briggs but yes could be.
Click to expand...

same reply for either engine..

Except of course Kohler selling a kit for a Briggs


#21

reynoldston

reynoldston

The head will have to come off first for anyone of the repairs. That will sure tell the story. Not that bad of a job. I have found through the years of repairs if a head gasket blows out there has to be a reason for it??? I would want to know that before just replacing the head gasket.


#22

R

Rivets

Reason is a poor design by all manufactures. 1/4" wide strip of gasket between cylinder and valve chamber. No way to keep this area tight.


#23

P

pontiac69

Is there an easy way to find out the torque specs on the head as well as anything else needed without buying a manual. I am mechanical and it shouldnt be hard, just want to know the torque specs and pattern. As well as anything else one can think of.


#24

reynoldston

reynoldston

Rivets said:
Reason is a poor design by all manufactures. 1/4" wide strip of gasket between cylinder and valve chamber. No way to keep this area tight.
Click to expand...

Just what engine are we talking about? Or you are saying all engine are doing this because of poor design? We started with a Kohler command and then a Briggs?? Just odd its something I haven't ran a cross this yet but not say I wouldn't. You are saying just replace the gasket and its fixed. When and if I do run across a blown head gasket I will be checking it out with a flat edge. I had a newer Briggs with a blown head gasket but it wasn't into the push rod galley. That job the customer didn't want it fixed right so it just blow out the new gasket again after he use it a few times.


#25

Fish

Fish

Usually the blown area is @ this area, very common problem on Briggs and Kohler.

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#26

reynoldston

reynoldston

Fish said:
Usually the blown area is @ this area, very common problem on Briggs and Kohler.
Click to expand...

I can see the problem area. It looks like where the lifters are located. I have some customers and including myself with the Kohler Command engine but yet to have a head off one. Other then some oil leaks and coil problems its been a very trouble free engine. So now watch I will get a run on head gaskets.


#27

R

Rivets

I have also seen it on a few Kaws, but not nearly as many times as Briggs and Kohler.


#28

EngineMan

EngineMan

pontiac69 said:
Is there an easy way to find out the torque specs on the head as well as anything else needed without buying a manual. I am mechanical and it shouldnt be hard, just want to know the torque specs and pattern. As well as anything else one can think of.
Click to expand...

This will help you out a little.

Attachments


  • CYLINDER HEAD TORQUE SEQUENCE.bmp
    570 KB · Views: 23

  • TORQUE SETTINGS.bmp
    465 KB · Views: 22


#29

reynoldston

reynoldston

EngineMan said:
This will help you out a little.
Click to expand...

That looks like B&S to me. Thanks I will save it. The last B&S engine I put a head gasket in didn't last long but I also didn't have this information.


#30

EngineMan

EngineMan

reynoldston said:
That looks like B&S to me. Thanks I will save it. The last B&S engine I put a head gasket in didn't last long but I also didn't have this information.
Click to expand...

It is not B&S its Kohler for that engine, and is out of the kohler manual.


#31

reynoldston

reynoldston

EngineMan said:
It is not B&S its Kohler for that engine, and is out of the kohler manual.
Click to expand...

You made me get Kohler service manual out to check it out and yes you are right. I didn't realize the Kohler also only had 4 head bolts like the B&S. Like I said never had a head off a Kohler command. My manual shows studs instead of bolts so did they come both ways?


#32

F

fifthstring27030

In 95 out of 100 cases you have a blown head gasket. It will be blown in the area where push rods come up rockers causing engine compression to be sent into crankcase. You can remove dipstick while engine is running if oil is blown out it will verify this. A vacuum should be present when you remove dipstick


#33

R

Rivets

There should be no vacuum in the crankcase. A properly operating breather should equalize the pressure in the crankcase.


#34

F

fifthstring27030

I wonder why Kohler puts this in their engine service manual if the crankcase has no vacuum??





To test crankcase vacuum with vacuum/pressure gauge:
1. Remove dipstick or oil fi ll plug/cap.
2. Install adapter into oil fi ll//dipstick tube opening,
upside down over end of a small diameter dipstick
tube, or directly into engine if a tube is not used.
Insert barbed gauge fi tting into hole in stopper.
3. Run engine and observe gauge reading.
Analog tester墨eedle movement to left of 0 is a
vacuum, and movement to right indicates a pressure.
Digital tester謀epress test button on top of tester.
Crankcase vacuum should be a minimum of 10.2 cm
(4 in.) of water. If reading is below specifi cation, or if
pressure is present, check table below for possible
causes and conclusions


#35

R

Rivets

What you are testing is to see if the breather is operating properly. Think of it this way, when the piston is going up in the cylinder, the volume in the crankcase is getting larger and a small "vacuum" is created in the crankcase. Some outside air is drawn in to relieve this low pressure. When the piston is going down, the opposite occurs, and air is pushed out the breather. If the breather does not work properly, the following may occur. High oil consumption passed the valves or throughout the carb, blown gaskets, rough running engines. The breather must allow air flow in both directions freely, in controlled amounts.


#36

P

pontiac69

EngineMan said:
This will help you out a little.
Click to expand...


Yea this is not going to help me on my B&S engine. I have 8 head bolts and was told torque to 220"lbs.


#37

reynoldston

reynoldston

pontiac69 said:
Yea this is not going to help me on my B&S engine. I have 8 head bolts and was told torque to 220"lbs.
Click to expand...



I have installed a good many heads that I don't have the specs for. For torque settings you go by size of the bolt which you can find on a torque setting chart. The sequence you go side to side and work in a circle. I always start at a very low torque setting and retighten them till I get to the full torque.


#38

EngineMan

EngineMan

pontiac69 said:
Yea this is not going to help me on my B&S engine. I have 8 head bolts and was told torque to 220"lbs.
Click to expand...

I wasn't talking B&S, its for "Re: kohler engine spewing liquid out of breather" if you want the info on B&S engine, then you should start a new thread.


#39

reynoldston

reynoldston

EngineMan said:
I wasn't talking B&S, its for "Re: kohler engine spewing liquid out of breather" if you want the info on B&S engine, then you should start a new thread.
Click to expand...

I can understand the confusion. It started with a three wheel motorcycle with a Kohler engine in it. This is a mower forum not a motorcycle forum. Its the same engine but different because it doesn't have a governor in it. Now post 15 someone has a mower with a B&S in it with the same problem. Yes I agree they should of started there own thread but made a big misunderstanding what engine is being worked on. For some reason just because its a mower or motorcycle they don't understand there are a lot of different engines out there and they are all designed different.


#40

N

newbe101

That's a lot of good information. The reason I replaced the carburetor is because the rebuild kit was more expansive then the new one I found on e-bay. I agree that to get down to the bottom of the problem I think I will need to take the heads of but first I will try using compressed air the cylinders. What am I looking for when I do this?

Thank you for all good information


#41

R

Raw Dodge

newbe101 said:
That's a lot of good information. The reason I replaced the carburetor is because the rebuild kit was more expansive then the new one I found on e-bay. I agree that to get down to the bottom of the problem I think I will need to take the heads of but first I will try using compressed air the cylinders. What am I looking for when I do this?

Thank you for all good information
Click to expand...

Don't tear down an engine just to do it,first thing is to do a leak down test,or at least a compression test...if your compression is low on one side,you know where to start..if not I'd verify you have the correct dipstick in,and change the oil,add exactly 2 quarts with a filter, it'll take 2.1 if it has an oil cooler....it looks contaminated with water...also I'd check your governor settings it sounds like your over revving the engine,and thats when it spews oil....it should run at 3750 rpm with no load,no higher...from my experience I believe it likely has a blown head gasket,but that is pretty rare on the smaller commands,it's only been an issue on the 25/26/27/28 hp engines with the bigger bore...good luck.


#42

M

maaaarcus

Definitely sounds like the crankcase is being pressurized. Blow by? Bad rings? Scored cylinders walls?
Sounds like it time for rebuild. Hone out the cylinder walls, new rings and pistons? As already mentioned, a compression check is in order.


#43

N

newbe101

Well I tried to start it yesterday and now I cant even get it to start or even sound like it has pressure so I said either way I will need to do something so I took the heads off. The cylinder walls looked great, very smooth no scaring. Look at the pictures on the PDF file I hope they tell the story. The right side has a bad head gasket but the area in the break I don't know what the chamber is. The left cylinder and the head gasket look good but it almost looks like part of it was leaking as if it wasn't tightly sealed.

Your opinion is always welcome.

Attachments


  • Left cylinder - head.pdf
    291.1 KB · Views: 35

  • Right head = head gasket.pdf
    282.2 KB · Views: 34


#44

R

Rivets

Definitely the cause of your problem is a blown head gasket. The passage way in question is the crankcase vent, a direct passage between the valve chamber and the crankcase. Cleaning everything and properly installing new head gaskets and valve cover gaskets should solve your problems. To tired to check back and see if someone posted a service manual, so I'll include one to help you out.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Koh...ual-Command-CH18-CH20-CH22-CH23-CH25-CH26.pdf


#45

EngineMan

EngineMan

Could you post up other photo of the left cylinder in focus please, seems to me if that's the one with the problem...!

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#46

N

newbe101

here is the left cylinder as a pic not pdf. The cylinders were not cleaned I just pulled of the head gasket.

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#47

N

newbe101

here is 2 more I just took. Wow the cylinder walls don't look as nice as when I was looking at them yesterday evening. New day new set of eyes I guess.

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#48

EngineMan

EngineMan

Much better photo's thank, go with rivets in #44 and you should be alright, make sure that all the parts are cleaned well.


#49

N

newbe101

Well I have everything almost back together. Only thing left is the electrical. I had it running and the engine seems to be working good but I don't have it out for a proper test yet.

I am having a problem with it running and its the carburetor solenoid. Solenoid works fine (I think). When you turn it to start the plunger engages to allow fuel to flow but soon as you release the key from the start position it goes back to closing the fuel so the engine dies. Is that right? Shouldn't it stay in the open position until the key is turned all the way to the left to off position? The solenoid is hooked up in the factory harness to the starter solenoid so what gives then? I really don't want to rig it where I am butchering the solenoid.


#50

EngineMan

EngineMan

newbe101 said:
Well I have everything almost back together. Only thing left is the electrical. I had it running and the engine seems to be working good but I don't have it out for a proper test yet.

I am having a problem with it running and its the carburetor solenoid. Solenoid works fine (I think). When you turn it to start the plunger engages to allow fuel to flow but soon as you release the key from the start position it goes back to closing the fuel so the engine dies. Is that right? Shouldn't it stay in the open position until the key is turned all the way to the left to off position? The solenoid is hooked up in the factory harness to the starter solenoid so what gives then? I really don't want to rig it where I am butchering the solenoid.
Click to expand...

Check the key switch because solenoid should remain on (live) when key is in the run position (ignition on) and turn off when you turn the key to the off position.


#51

N

newbe101

EngineMan said:
Check the key switch because solenoid should remain on (live) when key is in the run position (ignition on) and turn off when you turn the key to the off position.
Click to expand...

I agree and that's what I'm thinking. The wire for the carburetor solenoid on the key switch is the same wire as for the starter solenoid which splits up in the engine compartment going two different location, to the starter solenoid and the carburetor solenoid and that's with the factory harness.

My key switch has 6 contacts marked with letters on them which I think stands for:
B = battery
A = accessory
M = magneto
S = solenoid
G = ground
R = not used don't know what goes there but when key is turned to on (not start) it gets power just like accessory


#52

EngineMan

EngineMan

newbe101 said:
I agree and that's what I'm thinking. The wire for the carburetor solenoid on the key switch is the same wire as for the starter solenoid which splits up in the engine compartment going two different location, to the starter solenoid and the carburetor solenoid and that's with the factory harness.

My key switch has 6 contacts marked with letters on them which I think stands for:
B = battery
A = accessory
M = magneto
S = solenoid
G = ground
R = not used don't know what goes there but when key is turned to on (not start) it gets power just like accessory
Click to expand...

You need to recheck the above

B=Battery
A=should be AC out from stator
M=Magneto (Armature) and After fire solenoid
S= if its black may go to the seat/clutch/brake switchers
G= Ground
R= (not sure) may go to Headlight harness


#53

M

MowManMow

Friends Cub SV730 smoking so bad its choking him to death riding it he says. He's right choking me standing 10ft from it. I start it, then I book..lol.

Compression shows about 160 on both cyl.
I dont have a working leak down tester right now.
No gas in oil, level fine.
Pulled breather tube and smoke clears but its blowing oil out its tube bigtime. Reed is fine, all clean/clear.
Adjusted valves, were fine.
Breather tube fills up with oil in under 5 min run time.
??? Head gasket would still smoke right? Can a bad head gasket change its smoking when I unhook hose from breather box? It smokes way less when unhooked, its building internal pressure no doubt.

Idk Reliable?
I'll just say they sure aint the engines Kohler made its name with thats for da#n sure. K's & Mags ran problem free decade after decade after decade after decade & then some!
Mine are 40+ never been rebuilt to date, no sign of slowing, yet to burn oil between seasons. Most of these dont even do one decade without majors.
Just say'n..


#54

B

bertsmobile1

MowManMow said:
Friends Cub SV730 smoking so bad its choking him to death riding it he says. He's right choking me standing 10ft from it. I start it, then I book..lol.

Compression shows about 160 on both cyl.
I dont have a working leak down tester right now.
No gas in oil, level fine.
Pulled breather tube and smoke clears but its blowing oil out its tube bigtime. Reed is fine, all clean/clear.
Adjusted valves, were fine.
Breather tube fills up with oil in under 5 min run time.
??? Head gasket would still smoke right? Can a bad head gasket change its smoking when I unhook hose from breather box? It smokes way less when unhooked, its building internal pressure no doubt.

Idk Reliable?
I'll just say they sure aint the engines Kohler made its name with thats for da#n sure. K's & Mags ran problem free decade after decade after decade after decade & then some!
Mine are 40+ never been rebuilt to date, no sign of slowing, yet to burn oil between seasons. Most of these dont even do one decade without majors.
Just say'n..
Click to expand...
The head gasket usually blows between the pushrod tube & the cylinder.
This pressurizes the crank case which causes excessive oil vapour to blow out the breather.

The usual reason for the head gasket to blow is a hydraulic lock caused by fuel leaking through the carb into the cylinder then blowing the weakest part ( the gasket ) because liquids do not compress particularly well .

So the lack of reliability comes from EPA regulations requiring the float bowl to vent INSIDE the engine so in place of you seeing fuel under the mower & smelling fuel when you walk into the shed, the fuel fills up the cylinder then dilutes the oil in the crankcase wich means a double oil change + new gaskets .


#55

H

hlw49

It could be the crank case reed valve under the crank case breather that the breather tube hooks to. Had one on a vertical that it would run under no load all day. When you put a load on it, it would blow smoke like it was on fire.


#56

B

bertsmobile1

hlw49 said:
It could be the crank case reed valve under the crank case breather that the breather tube hooks to. Had one on a vertical that it would run under no load all day. When you put a load on it, it would blow smoke like it was on fire.
Click to expand...
Smoking under load is a tell tale sign of worn rings , First year apprentice stuff
Smokes under load = bad rings
Smokes on the over run = Bad guide seals


#57

H

hlw49

bertsmobile1 said:
The head gasket usually blows between the pushrod tube & the cylinder.
This pressurizes the crank case which causes excessive oil vapour to blow out the breather.

The usual reason for the head gasket to blow is a hydraulic lock caused by fuel leaking through the carb into the cylinder then blowing the weakest part ( the gasket ) because liquids do not compress particularly well .

So the lack of reliability comes from EPA regulations requiring the float bowl to vent INSIDE the engine so in place of you seeing fuel under the mower & smelling fuel when you walk into the shed, the fuel fills up the cylinder then dilutes the oil in the crankcase wich means a double oil change + new gaskets .
Click to expand...
The reason the Kohlers blew head gasket was they had a crappy head gasket with no fire ring on them took them over 20 years but they finally fixed it. The CV twins have two reed valves on top of the block under the heads in the push rod arear if they break it will do this. Kohlers don't blow between the cylinder and the push rods. They blow between the oil drain back hole and the cylinder or out side in the exhaust area due to warpage. If it blows out side the cylinder you can hear it whistle on start up or when you cut the engine off.


#58

M

MowManMow

Thanks folks, Ill tear her down & see.


#59

H

hlw49

bertsmobile1 said:
Smoking under load is a tell tale sign of worn rings , First year apprentice stuff
Smokes under load = bad rings
Smokes on the over run = Bad guide seals
Click to expand...
I hate to burst your bubble when I went in replaced the broken reed it stopped smoking and using oil. This was a new engine and was still under warranty.


#60

H

hlw49

Not first year apprentice stuff 45 year tech. stuff


#61

M

MowManMow

hlw49 said:
I hate to burst your bubble when I went in replaced the broken reed it stopped smoking and using oil. This was a new engine and was still under warranty.
Click to expand...
Reed & head gaskets replaced still filled hose with oil. Leak down test shows all good. Didnt smoke at all with hose disconnected but hose fills up in under 10 min time.
Owner bought a brand new Kabota sub tractor last week, what he wanted from the start he says. He'll scrap this poc cub. He mowes enough he needed a lot more mower so he did right. Got a fel, fork lift, backhoe and trench digger attachment too...lol Such a nice tractor he'll never miss this little poc. Might run over it but surely wont ever miss it...lol.


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