Hustlers Raptor XDX help

[Engine207]

Sorry it’s been awhile since I posted on my own thread, but had family in for Father’s Day.

Now…when I left off, I was able to start the mower by jumping the two solenoid posts together. I havent gone back through and inspected every wire connection with the tester, but I did gamble $25 that it was the ignition switch, and lost. After replacing it, the same “click” result.

So if it starts with a solenoid-to-solenoid jump every time, am i proving my solenoid works? The jumper starts it with the old switch and the new switch…is it reasonable to conclude it’s not the safety sensors; not the ignition switch; not the battery; not the starter; and not the engine itself? Am I down to a bad wiring connection? I guess I’ll just re-read the whole wire tracing business and try that.

On the upside, this is my start-up “key”
I found an old piece of romex with some heavy gauge wire, so my jumper is pretty solid and no more heat!

 

[bertsmobile1]

All your piece of wire proves is the wire can carry enough current to power the starter motor.
You found the problem back in post # 4 the red/black wire at the base of the solenoid does not show battery voltage when the key is in the S position
I do not have an XDX wiring diagram so the remainder is based on the Raptor SD
The solenoid gets its trigger voltage from the starting/ignition relay via a red & black wire
There should be one or more relays look for on e that has a red & black wire
IT should click when you turn the key to start
If you want information that is exactly right for your mower we need your model & serial numbers so we can download the service manual from Hustler .

 

[StarTech]

Bert you said you need the schematic and now you do have it.




In the schematic switch lettering becomes as follows
L = R
M = K
S = S
B = B

Can be PTO or either one of the lap bar switches. Can even be a bad start relay or wiring issues. But with the OP able to start the mower either the seat switch has been enabled or the PTO switch, lap bar switches, and start relay is operating but has bad contacts. The question then is "Is the start relay operating?".

 

[bertsmobile1]

Tar Star
Looks to be close enough to the same as all of the other Raptor models
He is getting a couple of mv on the red/black wire at the solenoid according to post #4

Now as you know the kill relay is working because it runs and shuts off swap the relays over
If it cranks and starts then you just had a bad base connection at the relay .
Give both bases a good spray with WD 40, contact cleaner etc then coat liberally with contact grease and plug both of them back in and go mow
If it cranked but did not start then the relay is deceased
If it did not crank at all then either the red / black from the key switch is not providing battery voltage or the tan / red is not supplying battery voltage
Now unless you have 3 hands it is good to make up 4 short jumpers with a male blade terminal at each end ( we call them patch leads just to confuse everyone and make us sound smart )
You will use these to bypass various switches
Pull the plug off the key switch you just replaced and check the switch makes to connections that Star has printed
If so then connect the red to the red / black then go and check for battery voltage at the relay which should click when you jump the plug
If you now have battery voltage at the relay base on the red / black wire ( note there are 2 of them & only one should show voltage at this stage ) and the relay does not click then the black ground wire is faulty
If that checks out OK then move the jumper at the key switch plug to join the B + R (or L ) which should be an orange wire
Back probe ( stick the probe into the wire end of the plug ) the PTO plug .
Both orange wires should be 12V and with the knob down the tan wire opposite an orange should also show 12 V while the orange / red should show no voltage
There should reverse when you pull the knob up.
If this is the case pull the plug and jump the orange + tan wires
Now comes the fun part .
Find where Hustler has hidden the lap bar switches
One will have 2 tan wires , you test it next
Back probe with the arm in should have 12 V on one side .
Back probe with the arm out , should have 12 V on both sides
Yes = switch is good , pull the plug & put another jumper in and go to the other side
Same story the tan should show 12V arm in and both wires should show 12 V arm out
If it also proves to be good then the tan / red wire is broken between the lap bar & the relay plug

IF you do not want to mess around with a meter then you can make a double jumper with 2 wires on one terminal
Then you plug the double into the red wire then the other 2 into the red / black + the orange
This way when you jump the bad plug the engine will crank