Hustlers Raptor XDX help

[Freddie21]

Couple things, You may have a bad battery, solenoid, starter or locked engine. You indicated 127mv at the starter lead of the solenoid when the key is turned. This should be 12v as the solenoid passes the 12 from the battery connection to the starter. If the solenoid is clicking and the starter is not turning, then I would think bad solenoid. You can test in one of two ways: Use car jumper cables and put one of the red leads to the starter large red connection and touch the other end to the battery Pos+ terminal. If the starter spins, bad solenoid. Second way, using a larger screw driver jump the two large red connections of the solenoid together, same thing with the starter spinning. This is not the preferred way and is usually done if you stuck in the field and don't \have a jumper wire.

If the starter does not spin, but just clicks, it mat be locked against the flywheel or bad itself. Before testing, make sure you can rotate the engine by hand 360 degrees. Will be tight. If it doesn't turn remove the engine cover, get rid of any critters or grass and see if the starter gear is meshed with the flywheel. If it's ok, then remove the spark plug and see if you can rotate the engine.

 

[Rivets]

Only time I’ve ever seen safety sensors wired in an ignition system is when you have a battery ignition system. This style of system has been discontinued in 95% of all lawn and garden equipment. Otherwise the parts of a magneto ignition system are key switch, wire going from key switch to coil, (which is known as the kill wire) coil, and spark plug.

 

[dhawk]

Engine 207, I have that same raptor model, 18hp Kawasaki engine, had the same problem mowed the yard went t the shop, shut her down and blew the deck and engine compartment out with air, got on and tried to start and nothing. Ran the procedures as explained here still nothing, jumped the solenoid across and it started. I then started at the switch and ohmed the start switch each post ohmed thru even the post from the start post with the key held to start, then I ohmed the wire from start post to solenoid and Wa-La broken wire just behind the connector, replaced the post connector, problem solved. this is just one more quick check that may help you out. Good Luck.

 

[heyinway]

Battery can show proper voltage but low on amperage. I see that all the time. Safety switches rarely fail.

 

[Divot]

Here is my procedure for diagnosing electrical problems on tractors. With a little tweaking it works on Z-turns. I’m thinking you may have a bad battery, which these tests will confirm or deny.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.

1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words

Oh my. I’m going to share this procedure and save it myself
THANK YOU FOR BEING SO THOROUGH. WOW
No wonder I read these post so much.
you’re brilliant!

 

[Cheeseoreno]

Hi all!
First post here, so go easy on me, boys! Went out to start my 2021 Hustler Raptor XDX, and all I got was a click. Checked the battery at 12.9V (which had been on a trickle), verified the 15A fuse was good, made sure my deck clutch was pushed down, and my drive arms were fully out. When I look at my hour meter, there’s a little icon that flashes in the run position, but solid in the off position.

I just cut the grass last week without any problems and parked it in the garage. I believe my mower thinks the interlock parking brake isn’t fully engaged. I’d appreciate some help troubleshooting, adjusting or bypassing the interlock. TIA!

What "Rivet" stated is correct BUT there is one more thing to look for. I had the same issue and when I pulled out my Ignition key assembly I noticed that the starter would click AND Run if I pulled. If I pushed it would not. I found the RED wire had broken inside the insulation. Make sure you buy an excellent quality Crimper if you go that route. I purchased a Klein that releases once the correct amount of crimp is established. Too many times in the past I crimped but not enough so the connection became bad again.

 

[WSD]

That was concise, detailed help you provided and structured well to derive a solution without getting lost in the weeds.
If I can ever help anyone here I'll keep your directions in mind as an example. So many of these "helpful" replies on here are someone's guess at what's wrong other than guidance through a systematic troubleshooting process. Nicely done.

 

[WSD]

And I know about getting lost in the weeds trying to figure an issue out. My Lazer ZX has not 1 but 3 separate microprocessors running the mower and engine. Going slowly and by the book has seemed to actually save me time in the long run. My $0.02

 

[Mr. Mower]

This is a very informative thread on the subject.

Thanks to all those who have contributed.

 

[davis2]

I would like to add that some people while trying to help, should read all posts before replying. It would eliminate confusion, and make an easier read. Thank you.