Briggs& Stratton engine will not turn over

[JimP2014]

Dvzkd,

I see your test on trying to eliminate the fuel tank, the hose and all that but here's a more basic question. The fuel tank sits up higher than the carburetor so the question is does the fuel line have to go from higher to lower because the one I have has a loop in it and it goes down say towards the oil filter which I think is lower. Could that be a problem with the existing setup? Do I need to basically shorten the hose so that it's like a straight line going downhill to where the fuel gets into the carburetor?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[JimP2014]

I am uploading this image because I've taken apart the engine so many times. I figured while I have the cylinder head off I could put a mark on the flywheel. Put a mark on the ignition coil and make note of the fact the magnet is near the starter and with this positioning the cylinder is slightly past top dead center. I hope this can help someone out. I'm not a big fan of putting a screwdriver into the spark plug hole.

Jim

 

[dwzkd]

View attachment 69154

Okay so this image is the cylinder head I really want to use but the spark plug hole is destroyed. So what you see in a faint red color that beefiness does not exist on the 14.5 horsepower cylinder head which is what I need to use because the spark plug hole is perfect. So this is really the question. Do I need that extra beefiness?

Jim

I would give it a shot. I suspect if something were going to happen it would be after a long time of use. I would expect (at most) you may see cracking at the two bolt holes closest to the edge on the smaller head. Just be sure to torque it to spec and don't overdo it. Keep an eye on it and if you see any cracks, look at replacing it then.

-Brian

 

[JimP2014]

I would give it a shot. I suspect if something were going to happen it would be after a long time of use. I would expect (at most) you may see cracking at the two bolt holes closest to the edge on the smaller head. Just be sure to torque it to spec and don't overdo it. Keep an eye on it and if you see any cracks, look at replacing it then.

-Brian

Okay Brian. Thanks. I haven't done anything further so basically I got the cylinder head on. I wanted to make damn sure I didn't screw those bolts up. They're not torquing down spec, but they're fairly tight right now. The push rods are from the original cylinder. Had that say I noticed that post a little while ago actually where the rocker arms sit. It's sort of unscrewed itself so I got to tighten those down but everything looks like when you rotate the flywheel like the push rods are doing what they're supposed to do. The cylinder head I'm going with right now. The smaller one at least has four screw holes for the valve cover where nothing stripped and I mean I'll give it a shot. I've been thinking about this and it's probably going to be later today when it's cooler but if I go back to hunting and surging with everything that seems to be different than I'm at a loss and I've been thinking about. Why couldn't any engine manufacturers like Briggs& Stratton or Kohler or whomever put on the back side of any engine like a plate that can be removed? Have eight bolts and the reason for it is you want to see if the camshaft is bent. You want to see if the governor is screwed up. Take the thing off and look inside the engine. You don't need to do anything further. That's what I would do if I were. Those companies make it easier without having to go through. Well if you have this symptom and you have that symptom then it means this. No guess that's the way to do it. The way to do it is actually visually inspect the thing.


But thanks for your help and I'll see what happens.

Jim

 

[JimP2014]

Okay Brian. Thanks. I haven't done anything further so basically I got the cylinder head on. I wanted to make damn sure I didn't screw those bolts up. They're not torquing down spec, but they're fairly tight right now. The push rods are from the original cylinder. Had that say I noticed that post a little while ago actually where the rocker arms sit. It's sort of unscrewed itself so I got to tighten those down but everything looks like when you rotate the flywheel like the push rods are doing what they're supposed to do. The cylinder head I'm going with right now. The smaller one at least has four screw holes for the valve cover where nothing stripped and I mean I'll give it a shot. I've been thinking about this and it's probably going to be later today when it's cooler but if I go back to hunting and surging with everything that seems to be different than I'm at a loss and I've been thinking about. Why couldn't any engine manufacturers like Briggs& Stratton or Kohler or whomever put on the back side of any engine like a plate that can be removed? Have eight bolts and the reason for it is you want to see if the camshaft is bent. You want to see if the governor is screwed up. Take the thing off and look inside the engine. You don't need to do anything further. That's what I would do if I were. Those companies make it easier without having to go through. Well if you have this symptom and you have that symptom then it means this. No guess that's the way to do it. The way to do it is actually visually inspect the thing.


But thanks for your help and I'll see what happens.

Jim

Oh the other thing was should I shorten the fuel line so it's like the fuel is angled down towards the carburetor because right now it's a big loop kind of? And the only other thing is this thing actually runs well then I absolutely will get a cylinder head for it. But right now I'm not sure what to do so I'm going to try it out as is.

Jim

 

[dwzkd]

Oh the other thing was should I shorten the fuel line so it's like the fuel is angled down towards the carburetor because right now it's a big loop kind of? And the only other thing is this thing actually runs well then I absolutely will get a cylinder head for it. But right now I'm not sure what to do so I'm going to try it out as is.

Jim

Hi Jim,

I wouldn't worry about the fuel line. This shows a vacuum style fuel pump (round hocky puck looking thing with three hoses)... The fuel line shouldn't matter with the pump.

Once you get the head tightened and try running it again, (maybe the hunting will go away ) let's see what happens and go from there.

A few other thoughts
1) have you checked the oil to see if it is at the right level? With the fuel cutoff solenoid disabled, some fuel can get into the crankcase if the tractor is sitting just right. Not sure if this would be a related problem or not, just something to check and watch.
2) Once you get it running, turn the fuel valve off and let it run until it dies. This will drain most of the fuel from the carburetor bowl. Then remove the fuel hose at the carburetor and squirt carb cleaner in there until it overflows the little pipe. Spray the rest of the carburetor inside and outside with carb cleaner. Let it set for 10 minutes or so. You can also remove the fuel adjusting screw (has a point on it when removed so you know you got the right one). Then spray carb cleaner in the hole where it came out.

After it has sat for 10 mins, put the adjusting needle back in place and gently screw it in until it bottoms out (not tight, just touches), then pack it out 1 1/2 turns. Reconnect the fuel line to the carburetor open the manual fuel valve and start it up. It will run rough until the carb cleaner is burned up. [this is a poor man's way to clean the carb. it is not the best clean, but it can work]

3) Check for air leakage as I shared before by spraying carb cleaner on the intake manifold (black plastic between carburetor and engine) and throttle & choke shafts.

Please let us know the outcome...
-Brian

 

[Forest#2]

When the guy told you to sub another fuel supply he wants you to try running on fresh fuel.

Or at least drain your tank and your fuel lines and carb bowl and add FRESH NON-ethanol gas.

Why: any moisture/water in the fuel or contaminated fuel will cause spitting back /surging/hunting.

The loop in the fuel line is ok. The gas in the tank only has to be above the level of the carb barb for gravity feed.

The carb jet is adjusted at slow idle and as you turn the jet out, go about 1/4 turn past when the engine starts getting smooth at idle. If it never gets smooth set it at 1 3/4 turn out or if its has a limiter on it set it at midway of the limiter.

A user friendly way to adjust the valve lash and not be concerned about 1/4 inch past TDC is to adjust one valve when the opposite valves rocker arm is fully down. The main one to get correct is the Intake valve set a .003-.005 (nominal .004) Turn the engine over by hand few time and re-check.
Set the air gap on the magneto at .010. Let the flywheel magnet draw the magneto in on a .010 gauge. Turn the flywheel and make sure nothing rubs on the magneto after setting the air gap.
Most plastic cards are too thick at .015

 

[JimP2014]

Hi Jim,

I wouldn't worry about the fuel line. This shows a vacuum style fuel pump (round hocky puck looking thing with three hoses)... The fuel line shouldn't matter with the pump.

Once you get the head tightened and try running it again, (maybe the hunting will go away ) let's see what happens and go from there.

A few other thoughts
1) have you checked the oil to see if it is at the right level? With the fuel cutoff solenoid disabled, some fuel can get into the crankcase if the tractor is sitting just right. Not sure if this would be a related problem or not, just something to check and watch.
2) Once you get it running, turn the fuel valve off and let it run until it dies. This will drain most of the fuel from the carburetor bowl. Then remove the fuel hose at the carburetor and squirt carb cleaner in there until it overflows the little pipe. Spray the rest of the carburetor inside and outside with carb cleaner. Let it set for 10 minutes or so. You can also remove the fuel adjusting screw (has a point on it when removed so you know you got the right one). Then spray carb cleaner in the hole where it came out.

After it has sat for 10 mins, put the adjusting needle back in place and gently screw it in until it bottoms out (not tight, just touches), then pack it out 1 1/2 turns. Reconnect the fuel line to the carburetor open the manual fuel valve and start it up. It will run rough until the carb cleaner is burned up. [this is a poor man's way to clean the carb. it is not the best clean, but it can work]

3) Check for air leakage as I shared before by spraying carb cleaner on the intake manifold (black plastic between carburetor and engine) and throttle & choke shafts.

Please let us know the outcome...
-Brian

Awesome Brian. Thanks again for this further update. I'll have my phone with me outside when I'm going through all this.

 

[JimP2014]

When the guy told you to sub another fuel supply he wants you to try running on fresh fuel.

Or at least drain your tank and your fuel lines and carb bowl and add FRESH NON-ethanol gas.

Why: any moisture/water in the fuel or contaminated fuel will cause spitting back /surging/hunting.

The loop in the fuel line is ok. The gas in the tank only has to be above the level of the carb barb for gravity feed.

The carb jet is adjusted at slow idle and as you turn the jet out, go about 1/4 turn past when the engine starts getting smooth at idle. If it never gets smooth set it at 1 3/4 turn out or if its has a limiter on it set it at midway of the limiter.

A user friendly way to adjust the valve lash and not be concerned about 1/4 inch past TDC is to adjust one valve when the opposite valves rocker arm is fully down. The main one to get correct is the Intake valve set a .003-.005 (nominal .004) Turn the engine over by hand few time and re-check.
Set the air gap on the magneto at .010. Let the flywheel magnet draw the magneto in on a .010 gauge. Turn the flywheel and make sure nothing rubs on the magneto after setting the air gap.
Most plastic cards are too thick at .015

Forest, thanks for this. I think I'm going to combine what you wrote and what Brian wrote and printed it all out. But one thing and I assure you someone believed I was a tech person just testing you all but I'm not. But I'm saying this because I have no clue what a valve lash is. I will look that up. Don't worry. Don't need a reply.

Jim

 

[JimP2014]

Forest, thanks for this. I think I'm going to combine what you wrote and what Brian wrote and printed it all out. But one thing and I assure you someone believed I was a tech person just testing you all but I'm not. But I'm saying this because I have no clue what a valve lash is. I will look that up. Don't worry. Don't need a reply.

Jim

Okay it's the valve clearance. I get it. I just don't know the phrase you used. Thanks though Forest.

Jim