Briggs& Stratton engine will not turn over

Forest#2

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This is assuming that you have the flywheel fan on and the air shroud so as the engine can be operated long enough without overheating .

Try holding the carb throttle manually at low idle of approx 1200 rpms and see if the engine idles ok.

If it idles ok at around 1200 rpm's with no spitting and jerking slowly manually using the carb's throttle plate increase the engine rpm's and see if stays smooth or gets rough. You are not using the on board throttle cable lever you are manually controlling the throttle plate, bypassing the governor control.

then if engine does not hunt and surge when manually controlled
you need to
then

search on-line for how to do a STATIC GOVERNOR ADJUST.

If it don't slow idle good and smooth at about 1200 rpm's you need to forget about the governor and get the engine to operating at low rpms smooth before tackling other stuff.

Let us know what ya find about slow idle manually controlled carb responses?
 
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JimP2014

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If it still surges and hunts after all the about search on-line for how to do a STATIC GOVERNOR ADJUST.
Okay thank you. I just want you to know I've done so much. I actually have done the governor adjustment and it's where you move the arm back when it's on the lowest throttle setting. I'm just calling my memory but I will look it up again but I did all that and I thought I had it set correctly because it already was correct. But no worries but thanks for that extra info.

Jim
 

JimP2014

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Okay thank you. I just want you to know I've done so much. I actually have done the governor adjustment and it's where you move the arm back when it's on the lowest throttle setting. I'm just calling my memory but I will look it up again but I did all that and I thought I had it set correctly because it already was correct. But no worries but thanks for that extra info.

Jim
And when? It's on basically full throttle. The throttle plate I think it is is like a stiff spring but when it's it's the low throttle. It's kind of a loose spring but I'll look it up again but that's what I remember the more I think of it.
 

JimP2014

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And when? It's on basically full throttle. The throttle plate I think it is is like a stiff spring but when it's it's the low throttle. It's kind of a loose spring but I'll look it up again but that's what I remember the more I think of it.
Maybe it's called the linkage plate. It's where the little tiny wire and the other thicker metal wire hook into on top. It's kind of a shiny triangular shape thing. That's the thing I'm talking about
 

dwzkd

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See below. Note yours will be similar but may look different.

Hold the throttle control plate against the Low Idle Setscrew to bypass the governor control.

The green screw is the idle adjust (fuel / air control) screw.
 

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JimP2014

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See below. Note yours will be similar but may look different.

Hold the throttle control plate against the Low Idle Setscrew to bypass the governor control.

The green screw is the idle adjust (fuel / air control) screw.
Right Brian, sometimes I just don't know the names of the things, but the one with the needle is a fuel air mixture screw. And basically I know that if you tighten it, you close up the little tiny hole and by doing that you're allowing less air in and you are getting more fuel into the engine. So it took me a while to figure that one out and keep that in memory. But the other screw is the low low idle screw so I know what that does as well. And I have at times held the governor to prevent the hunting and surging but I know that's not the way it should work. But I will revisit the governor setting. I hate to say it for like the third or fourth time actually. I just went out to make sure the post for both the intake and exhaust rocker arms are tight and then I plan to put the the rocker arms and all that other stuff back. The tapetts are still in place so I think I got most of the procedure down. It's just what's going to happen when I actually fire it up. But I have your other instructions actually in like a notepad for Android with Forest's comments as well so it's all merged into one document. Like I said I'm just going to wait till it cools down brutally hot out.

Jim
 

JimP2014

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Right Brian, sometimes I just don't know the names of the things, but the one with the needle is a fuel air mixture screw. And basically I know that if you tighten it, you close up the little tiny hole and by doing that you're allowing less air in and you are getting more fuel into the engine. So it took me a while to figure that one out and keep that in memory. But the other screw is the low low idle screw so I know what that does as well. And I have at times held the governor to prevent the hunting and surging but I know that's not the way it should work. But I will revisit the governor setting. I hate to say it for like the third or fourth time actually. I just went out to make sure the post for both the intake and exhaust rocker arms are tight and then I plan to put the the rocker arms and all that other stuff back. The tapetts are still in place so I think I got most of the procedure down. It's just what's going to happen when I actually fire it up. But I have your other instructions actually in like a notepad for Android with Forest's comments as well so it's all merged into one document. Like I said I'm just going to wait till it cools down brutally hot out.

Jim
Okay so it's back to where the flywheel rotates and it doesn't start so I know I put a new flywheel key in and the video illustrates the problem I made sure there was no gasoline in the carburetor bowl. I then put the fuel solenoid back. I then allowed gas to flow into the carburetor and the video you're watching is actually the third time. So then the second time and the third time I sprayed carburetor cleaner into the intake and the flywheel just rotates. I have a spark plug. Maybe I should switch out the spark plug I set the valve clearance 4 on the intake 8 on the exhaust.

From my brief experience, if the flywheel rotates and nothing happens, I found it's a flywheel key issue.


Jim
 

JimP2014

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Okay so it's back to where the flywheel rotates and it doesn't start so I know I put a new flywheel key in and the video illustrates the problem I made sure there was no gasoline in the carburetor bowl. I then put the fuel solenoid back. I then allowed gas to flow into the carburetor and the video you're watching is actually the third time. So then the second time and the third time I sprayed carburetor cleaner into the intake and the flywheel just rotates. I have a spark plug. Maybe I should switch out the spark plug I set the valve clearance 4 on the intake 8 on the exhaust.

From my brief experience, if the flywheel rotates and nothing happens, I found it's a flywheel key issue.


Jim
So I did buy a spark plug tester. Maybe I should make use of it and see what's up. In the past if there was spark it did work meaning the spark plug tester. It's a lot easier than taking out the spark plug
 

JimP2014

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So I did buy a spark plug tester. Maybe I should make use of it and see what's up. In the past if there was spark it did work meaning the spark plug tester. It's a lot easier than taking out the spark plug
So using a spark plug tester there absolutely is spark. So then somehow despite tightening the flywheel bolts 100 ft lb I think maybe there's something wrong with the flywheel. I mean that's my experience so I'm wondering if the flywheel key could be okay, but there's something else wrong with a new cylinder head which is the old old cylinder head?

In other words, some explanation where the flywheel key is okay but....

Jim
 

JimP2014

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So using a spark plug tester there absolutely is spark. So then somehow despite tightening the flywheel bolts 100 ft lb I think maybe there's something wrong with the flywheel. I mean that's my experience so I'm wondering if the flywheel key could be okay, but there's something else wrong with a new cylinder head which is the old old cylinder head?

In other words, some explanation where the flywheel key is okay but....

Jim
This might not be a good example, but suppose there's something wrong with part A whatever that is. So the first time around part A is the problem because it starts up instantly. It runs incredible for 5 seconds and then there's hunting and surging and then later on part A is the problem because the flywheel keeps turning there's spark and nothing happens. This is not possible I don't think?
 
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