Briggs& Stratton engine will not turn over

JimP2014

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Hi Jim,
Now that you got this thing running I am starting to think maybe you have too much compression, I would test it again after you replace the cylinder head, Don't forget a new gasket, good luck. I cannot help you much more, I used to get poison ivy really bad so I totally avoid it now
I am sorry that you were thinking this because what happened was I destroyed the spark plug hole and and I wrapped some steel wool around the spark plug and then when I went to test it, the spark plug blew out and I couldn't find it in the yard because it was still inside of the rubber boot for the ignition coil. But I posted a video of what happened but the compression's fine. And you did not know that.

Jim
 

DABS

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Hey Jim what part of the country are you from?
 

JimP2014

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Hi Jim, Do you think the fan from the 14.5hp engine will fit to replace your broken one? I would not try the flywheel from the 14.5hp engine though, just the fan....

Regarding the head from the 14.5hp engine, I understand you to say that the cylinder diameter is smaller, so the corresponding recess in the head is smaller? If this is the case, as long as you can get a good seal with a gasket to the block, I would give it a try for sure.

On the surging issue, we have ruled out an intermittent kill switch with the test you ran earlier.
Have you looked into the carburetor? I thought I saw that you swapped it out earlier... but I am not sure.

I had an Onan on a JD 318, where the intake manifold was pressed together and glued. Over the years, the glue came loose, and air started to be sucked into the engine (between the carburetor and intake on the engine). This caused it to run lean and caused a hunting problem because as it leaned out, RPM would change, the governor would respond to correct for this, and the cycle would start over. I also had an old Kohler 14hp where the throttle shaft had worn into the shape of a football where it contacted the carburetor body. The throttle shaft would wobble because it was not I full contact with the carburetor hole. In both cases, I had a hunting issue like you have. I learned the trick to spray carb cleaner at the intake manifold and near the carburetor exit as well as the point where it entered the head. When I did that, engine speed would pick up (because I was adding more fuel and thus making the mixture less lean). Keep in mind "lean" means not enough fuel for the amount of air, and rich means too much fuel for the amount of air. The Carb cleaner check is quick and easy way to check this. If you see no change in behavior, then you don't have an air leak. (also check the throttle shaft for wobble and maybe give a small shot there to see if it is sucking in air). Also make sure the throttle and choke plates are on the shafts tight. A lose plate will wobble and change the amount of air getting in as well.

If you are not drawing in too much air, then it must be getting less fuel than it needs for the air it is getting. This is likely a fuel supply issue (plugged filter; plugged fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump;) or (float/needle not working properly) or (internal carburetor orifices blocked). Are you comfortable taking apart the carburetor to clean it out? Another place for leaks is if the float bowl seal is not tight or is damaged.

You can bypass the fuel line and filter from the tank to the carburetor by "gravity" feeding fuel into the carburetor port. I have used an old plastic beverage bottle for a temporary fuel tank for testing. Get a short piece of fuel line, drill a hole in the plastic lid of the plastic bottle a little smaller than the OD of your hose. Then squeeze the tip of the hose about 1/4" to 1/2" into the hole in the lid. Fill the beverage bottle about half-way with good fuel, put the lid on it and connect the other end of the hose to the input on the carburetor. start the engine while holding the bottle upside down (so fuel drains out into the carburetor). If the problem goes away, then you have a plugged line or filter. There may also be a plugged port in the tank. If the problem persists, then you know it is in the carburetor. (assuming you ruled out air leaks and spark issues)

Hope this helps.
Hello Dvzkd,
You have a lot of great information there and one thing I did see I would not take apart a carburetor to clean it. I would lose a piece or some other thing but right now the 3-year-old carburetor is on there and I snipped off part of the fuel solenoid so it's always getting fuel but I have a fuel shut off valve. I'm just trying to figure out if there's some weird thing going on even though the fuel solenoid does what it's supposed to. Based on the ignition key, it can't hurt to try that test. Furthermore, I have a brand new carburetor that I was briefly using and it wasn't making any difference so I went back to the old carburetor but I think I'm just going to go with this new carburetor and maybe end up with the fuel solenoid that has the tip of it cut off. I don't know that's all. Tomorrow I got to install a cylinder head from an older riding mower that's still in the yard.

But I will read this again probably tomorrow morning and use this as a guide for right now. But before I blew out the spark plug this morning, actually twice because the JB weld did nothing. The situation is still it starts right up and there's hunting and surging and all the other problems seem to have subsided.
Jim
 

JimP2014

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Hello Dvzkd,
You have a lot of great information there and one thing I did see I would not take apart a carburetor to clean it. I would lose a piece or some other thing but right now the 3-year-old carburetor is on there and I snipped off part of the fuel solenoid so it's always getting fuel but I have a fuel shut off valve. I'm just trying to figure out if there's some weird thing going on even though the fuel solenoid does what it's supposed to. Based on the ignition key, it can't hurt to try that test. Furthermore, I have a brand new carburetor that I was briefly using and it wasn't making any difference so I went back to the old carburetor but I think I'm just going to go with this new carburetor and maybe end up with the fuel solenoid that has the tip of it cut off. I don't know that's all. Tomorrow I got to install a cylinder head from an older riding mower that's still in the yard.

But I will read this again probably tomorrow morning and use this as a guide for right now. But before I blew out the spark plug this morning, actually twice because the JB weld did nothing. The situation is still it starts right up and there's hunting and surging and all the other problems seem to have subsided.
Jim
I just reread and I was never talking about the cylinder head diameter but that's a good thing to consider. I was just talking about the overall width of the whole thing because the newer cylinder head has like extra fins and creates more width for the hole cylinder head. Whereas the older one doesn't have the extra fins. So it seems like the holes and there's seven of them are identical in both. But I will check the diameter and just the area on the inside of the cylinder head and compare both of them and see what's up with that. Thanks for mentioning it.

Jim
 

0NPASSIVE

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I apologize to everyone who has viewed these posts because all the information I provided kept changing from my perspective because I couldn't figure out what's going on. But here's what the whole thing comes down to and I'm pretty sure of this. I'm absolutely getting spark if the spark plug using the spark plug tester that is consistent. It is the same for the last 1 and 1/2 days. I never realized the ignition coil had an orientation but it does. But the point is when I turn the key the key does trigger the starter. As long as the riding mower is in park position, I removed the safety switch underneath the seat a couple years ago and it has been fine but I can say the problem right now is I'm definitely getting spark to the spark plug and even with carburetor cleaner sprayed into the intake, the engine refuses to even start for a split second which has never been the case. So the question is, can the electronic fuel solenoid not only defeat regular gas going into the carburetor but can it also defeat carburetor cleaner? This is really the question.


Or any other scenario where you definitely have spark but the engine refuses to turn over. Would this be some sort of safety device or is it simply take a look at what's going on in the carburetor?


Thanks to anyone who can answer this, I appreciate it very much.


Jim
If it started with carb cleaner or starter fluid, then you have spark to the plug, so it has to be no fuel issue, a common problem, so check fuel pump first, then if not that, replace carb, they are cheap if you don't feel you can disassemble and clean out pin holes in fuel feed.
 

JimP2014

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Hello Dvzkd,
You have a lot of great information there and one thing I did see I would not take apart a carburetor to clean it. I would lose a piece or some other thing but right now the 3-year-old carburetor is on there and I snipped off part of the fuel solenoid so it's always getting fuel but I have a fuel shut off valve. I'm just trying to figure out if there's some weird thing going on even though the fuel solenoid does what it's supposed to. Based on the ignition key, it can't hurt to try that test. Furthermore, I have a brand new carburetor that I was briefly using and it wasn't making any difference so I went back to the old carburetor but I think I'm just going to go with this new carburetor and maybe end up with the fuel solenoid that has the tip of it cut off. I don't know that's all. Tomorrow I got to install a cylinder head from an older riding mower that's still in the yard.

But I will read this again probably tomorrow morning and use this as a guide for right now. But before I blew out the spark plug this morning, actually twice because the JB weld did nothing. The situation is still it starts right up and there's hunting and surging and all the other problems seem to

I just reread and I was never talking about the cylinder head diameter but that's a good thing to consider. I was just talking about the overall width of the whole thing because the newer cylinder head has like extra fins and creates more width for the hole cylinder head. Whereas the older one doesn't have the extra fins. So it seems like the holes and there's seven of them are identical in both. But I will check the diameter and just the area on the inside of the cylinder head and compare both of them and see what's up with that. Thanks for mentioning it
 

JimP2014

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It's July 8th about 6:00 a.m. I took off the cylinder head that is matched up with a 19.5 OHV engine. The one I'm trying to work on and I took the cylinder head from a 14.5 OHV Briggs& Stratton engine. The holes the seven bolts line up perfectly. The only thing I noticed is the cylinder head for the 19.5 horsepower Briggs& Stratton OHV engine is more beefy towards the exhaust side. It looks like it's just better built. The question is because I can't upload the image of the comparison is do I need that extra beefiness the short block which is part of the 19.5 horsepower OHV engine this I don't know. Also, I was able to use an RC 12yc spark plug and it went into the older cylinder head which is what I'm trying to fit into the 19.5 horsepower engine.

Thanks,
Jim
 

JimP2014

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It's July 8th about 6:00 a.m. I took off the cylinder head that is matched up with a 19.5 OHV engine. The one I'm trying to work on and I took the cylinder head from a 14.5 OHV Briggs& Stratton engine. The holes the seven bolts line up perfectly. The only thing I noticed is the cylinder head for the 19.5 horsepower Briggs& Stratton OHV engine is more beefy towards the exhaust side. It looks like it's just better built. The question is because I can't upload the image of the comparison is do I need that extra beefiness the short block which is part of the 19.5 horsepower OHV engine this I don't know. Also, I was able to use an RC 12yc spark plug and it went into the older cylinder head which is what I'm trying to fit into the 19.5 horsepower engine.

Thanks,
Jim
1000010106.jpg

Okay so this image is the cylinder head I really want to use but the spark plug hole is destroyed. So what you see in a faint red color that beefiness does not exist on the 14.5 horsepower cylinder head which is what I need to use because the spark plug hole is perfect. So this is really the question. Do I need that extra beefiness?

Jim
 
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