Briggs& Stratton engine will not turn over

JimP2014

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Any of the testers that don't jump an actual gap will give false positives. The grounded spark plug can be more reliable than blink testers but can cause issues sometimes were they will spark outside the engine but not spark under compression.

I tend to use these for cases were I am working on an engine that maybe loosing spark due to high related damage to the coils

View attachment 69077or for quick check were spark maybe questionable View attachment 69079
But both will give false positives.

But use the Briggs tester or HEI for serious testing.

View attachment 69078


View attachment 69081
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I see a lot of information here and I appreciate it. I will check all this out tomorrow.
 

JimP2014

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So I've been reading about some of the symptoms of a cracked cylinder wall and they mention white smoke coming from the exhaust that has happened. Say we could go. Also the the exhaust pipe was reading about 850° f after say 20 or 30 seconds I replaced the head gasket but the strange thing is if I do have a cracked cylinder wall which could explain the no start then how does that jive with a compression of 85 psi? Another way to say it is if I have 85 PSI for compression could I still have a cracked cylinder wall inside this? Briggs 19.5 horsepower OHV engine?
 

ILENGINE

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So I've been reading about some of the symptoms of a cracked cylinder wall and they mention white smoke coming from the exhaust that has happened. Say we could go. Also the the exhaust pipe was reading about 850° f after say 20 or 30 seconds I replaced the head gasket but the strange thing is if I do have a cracked cylinder wall which could explain the no start then how does that jive with a compression of 85 psi? Another way to say it is if I have 85 PSI for compression could I still have a cracked cylinder wall inside this? Briggs 19.5 horsepower OHV engine?
Alright Jim so down. You are starting to talk about things that most shops have never seen or even heard about. So what we know. You have spark, You have compression, and you are adding fuel. So all three element are present to at least start and run shortly. So that leaves the possibility of a sheared flywheel key cause spark at the wrong time, or an issue with the valves not opening or staying open at the right length of time to either intake or exhaust. And while checking the flywheel key make sure the ignition module isn't hitting the flywheel which can cause spark under compression issues among other things.
 

JimP2014

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Alright Jim so down. You are starting to talk about things that most shops have never seen or even heard about. So what we know. You have spark, You have compression, and you are adding fuel. So all three element are present to at least start and run shortly. So that leaves the possibility of a sheared flywheel key cause spark at the wrong time, or an issue with the valves not opening or staying open at the right length of time to either intake or exhaust. And while checking the flywheel key make sure the ignition module isn't hitting the flywheel which can cause spark under compression issues among other things.
Ilengine,

Okay it's early here but the first thing I'm going to do is basically show the state of the system in a video. So when I get outside it'll be simply a video of the flywheel turning and no start. And that's right after carburetor cleaner. Just sprayed in but I have been thinking about crack cylinder wall but then the problem with 85 PSI that seems to be contradictory but I don't know enough. Having said all that, the easiest thing to do is probably to take the flywheel off. See if I did any damage to any of those. Windings to go around the flywheel. Better part of the actual block. Take a look at the magnets. Just inspect whatever I could have done putting it back and then try that again and get a brand new flywheel key and see what happens from there

Thanks,
Jim
 

JimP2014

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So the ignition coil has a pretty good air gap. Nothing wrong with it. The spark plug is in all the way and the boot is secured onto the spark plug. The first time I sprayed carburetor cleaner the throttle was not right so I opened up the throttle went to high speed choke whatever and then I sprayed the carburetor cleaner again. This video depicts what's been going on ever since I took the flywheel off because prior that there was banging constant banging every time the engine rotated but back then the engine started up like a champ
 

JimP2014

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So the ignition coil has a pretty good air gap. Nothing wrong with it. The spark plug is in all the way and the boot is secured onto the spark plug. The first time I sprayed carburetor cleaner the throttle was not right so I opened up the throttle went to high speed choke whatever and then I sprayed the carburetor cleaner again. This video depicts what's been going on ever since I took the flywheel off because prior that there was banging constant banging every time the engine rotated but back then the engine started up like a champ
I failed to mention I couldn't be bothered putting the valve cover back on because I knew it wouldn't start but I would never run it in a well-running engine with a valve cover off. It's just been constant going back and forth. So the only thing that I was wondering is if the folks here believe take off the flywheel and start over or there's some other problem I would appreciate that very much. Thank you


Jim
 

ILENGINE

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It may just be the angle but it looks like the valve in video isn't moving very far. Maybe a 1/4 inch. How does the valve lift compare between the two valves if you turn the flywheel by hand, and compare the movement from fully closed to fully open. And that clunking may be due to the engine appears to be lose on the mower frame.
 

JimP2014

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Intake valve. The maximum travel out is 3 cm rocker arm

Intake valve travel comes up to 2 cm. Mark

Exhaust valve when it goes inside. It's at the 1. 2 CM Mark

Exhaust valve all the way out. It's at the 2.3 cm. Mark

Okay these are just raw notes. The way I'm measuring is I go to the cylinder head and I make the origin for measuring distance. The plate that contains the bolt for the rocker arm so that is exactly 0 in

So then I rotate the flywheel and I come up with how far does the rocker arm travel as measured from the rocker arm and the tappet so I'm measuring that side.

If there's any confusion on the way I did this, please ask. Thank you
 

JimP2014

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Intake valve. The maximum travel out is 3 cm rocker arm

Intake valve travel comes up to 2 cm. Mark

Exhaust valve when it goes inside. It's at the 1. 2 CM Mark

Exhaust valve all the way out. It's at the 2.3 cm. Mark

Okay these are just raw notes. The way I'm measuring is I go to the cylinder head and I make the origin for measuring distance. The plate that contains the bolt for the rocker arm so that is exactly 0 in

So then I rotate the flywheel and I come up with how far does the rocker arm travel as measured from the rocker arm and the tappet so I'm measuring that side.

If there's any confusion on the way I did this, please ask. Thank you
 
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