Hopefully someone who knows that engine will speak up. If there is a compression release, as dougand3 was saying earlier, you will see a lower number on the compression test. I was working on a briggs engine that showed under 60lbs on the compression test, due to a compression release. I was told that's typical for that motor. It runs great.
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Briggs& Stratton engine will not turn over
- Thread starter JimP2014
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Export threadMark Mark, it's been tough to follow all that is happening two or 3 weeks but it went from starting up instantly but with a constant banging noise to the flywheel turning perfectly but no start even with starting fluid which has never happened before with this engine and that's where it's at. So having said that, compression is probably 85 PSI or more by probably a little but it just spins. The flywheel just spins and nothing happens. This is not typical for this engine because normally it would just start up instantly but make an awful banging noise every revolution it seemed.Hopefully someone who knows that engine will speak up. If there is a compression release, as dougand3 was saying earlier, you will see a lower number on the compression test. I was working on a briggs engine that showed under 60lbs on the compression test, due to a compression release. I was told that's typical for that motor. It runs great.
Thanks for that video also.
Jim
A ways back you were talking about checking the flywheel key. I'd recheck that if you haven't. It doesn't take much for that to keep it from firing. I'm also concerned about the banging noise. As someone else said, that could be motor mounts, or a dead engine.
Okay definitely the motor mounts need to be fixed but suppose I have a dead engine I would think. And I'm not a mechanic that if you have compression you you passed that hurdle. If the push rods are okay, you pass that hurdle. If the rocker arms are okay that's good. I'm trying to figure out that if you could have a dead engine what would I be looking for? The Piston seems to work correctly with a screwdriver following the travel of the Piston, so I don't know what that thing would be that could cause a dead engine. Maybe you're just passing on with someone else said but I suppose I could take off the flywheel and I have a bunch of extra keys and start over on that can't hurt.
Jim
Jim
I just read in some other form. This sounds kind of like what's going on with my riding mower.
Except he finds out there's a bent push rod or a broken push rod and then everything's fine. I have no broken push rod and the push rods are perfect.
So I might just take off the flywheel pretend it's broken and put a new flywheel key in and try again for timing issue
Jim
Except he finds out there's a bent push rod or a broken push rod and then everything's fine. I have no broken push rod and the push rods are perfect.
So I might just take off the flywheel pretend it's broken and put a new flywheel key in and try again for timing issue
Jim
The engine needs 4 things to run. Fuel/air, compression, spark, and timing. I would check the key, but you can see if it's sheared, no need to replace if it's not. Have you tried replacing the spark plug? Using a spark tester tests everything but the plug. If you're spraying something for starting, open the choke and throttle when you spray to make sure it gets in. That bit me recently. It sounds like you've got compression, if it has compression release.
So as far as the spark plug goes, I have a spark plug tester. So if I test a spark plug and I see the light inside the spark plug tester, I'm assuming that the spark plug's okay and so that is done but maybe not. Maybe there's some weird thing going on that I can't figure out. Okay, as far as spraying carburetor fluid into the intake I can see the butterfly for the choke completely perfect to get maximum spray in there so that's taken care of. It's just very puzzling. I appreciate your suggestions. I think I've done everything possible. The only thing I was thinking about recently is taking the fuel solenoid apart snipping off the tip of it putting it back in and using this on off valve. I got on the fuel line and just get rid of the whole electronic fuel in a solenoid stuff completely. That's the only thing I could think of, but apparently if I'm spraying carburetor cleaner, you don't even need to worry about the electronic fuel solenoid. It's very puzzlingThe engine needs 4 things to run. Fuel/air, compression, spark, and timing. I would check the key, but you can see if it's sheared, no need to replace if it's not. Have you tried replacing the spark plug? Using a spark tester tests everything but the plug. If you're spraying something for starting, open the choke and throttle when you spray to make sure it gets in. That bit me recently. It sounds like you've got compression, if it has compression release.
If you are using one of those LED blink spark testers they will give false positives. So if the plug has an internal short will still blink the light but won't actually create spark at the plug