Search results

Yep, may be "recycle" time for this little toy!

Working on a 2020 Murray 30" with a 10.5 HP B&S. The block has a hole in it courtesy of the rod and associated trashed crankshaft. Engine: 21R707 -146-G1, Code 190925ZD Haven't priced out the part yet but, basically, should I look for a "will fit" engine, search EBAY, or ...

Understand. The application is a rough service one for sure. Appreciate the input! bartles

Yep, good to know for sure. I guess what I am asking here are the AGM batteries worth the additional cost vs wet cell Wal-Mart type batteries? I don't have any experience with AGM battery life in a mower application.

I'd like some input on mower battery recommendations for equipment in the 38-42" cut class...12-20 hp. I suppose it's a low cost vs quality situation. Use 230-300ah discount store batteries and replace them every 2 years OR use more expensive AGM battery? In our area the grass growing season...

"Sounds" like a baffle has come loose inside the muffler.

Thanks... When I checked the wiring out it did look like it had gotten a little warm. The insulation was baked hard in a few places between the clutch plug in and the harness connector that sits in the frame behind the engine, frame level. bartles

Did it make a difference when using aftermarket clutches? What brand did you use in the replacements? bartles

🤣🤣🤣, Well it didn't run away quite that fast! Changing the oil and cleaning the magnets is in the plan for sure. bartles

It is unusual to go through so many clutches in that short period of time. Not doing this burnishing procedure may be the very reason why.

Thanks for the info.... so if the owner had ready the manual there would have been more vacation money?😝

I was given a L120, GXL120A014009 with a B&S Model 406777-0128-E1. It looks to be a rebuildable core: good compression, engine runs relatively smooth, check the cam lift(s) for worn lobes and the transmission works fine. The 48" deck was not installed but has good metal. I have a couple of...

Thank you for the link. bartles

Is their model 406777(0128 E1) one of the vees that have had cam lobe wear issues? bartles

Thanks for your input. I do check those resources and get luck every so often. I really appreciate your advice!! bartles

I started to restore a joystick controlled Snapper Zero Turn but the deck was just too far gone + I learned the drive units were no longer serviceable. I can confirm the drive units are in good condition because I drove the mower around to get them warm enough to confirm they are in good...

🤣🤣🤣🤣, Wow!

Sorry, I am technically challenged. If I can figure out how to compress the photo of what I am talking about to get it to you. It's a flat piece of metal, about 1/2" wide x 3-4" long. one end is bent 90degrees about 1/2". There is a slot in the bent section. bartles

Thank you!

What is the year built of a : PA-SV735-3021 s/n 4217706133 ? Thanks in advance, bartles

Sorry for not finishing this story. I got the engine running and confirmed both the drive units are in good shape. The keyways on both units are a little worn but the mower runs good. I decided not to restore the mower...the deck is not in good shape, and the electric clutch bearings all need...

Ok, I've rebuilt dozens of small engine starters. I bought a "Far Eastern" starter and this was packed with the terminal nuts...what is it for?

The I.D., axle dia. is 1/2" The bearing O.D. is 1 1/8", and the width of the bearing is 5/16" The flange diameter is 1 1/4" Thanks a bunch! bartles

I can't get past 5am...aging process!😁

I'll take them out and let you know...thanks again!

Thanks!!! You are up early for a Saturday morning!:LOL: bartles

I can't locate what the valve lash clearances should be for a Honda engine, GCV160LA0 S3B NH1. Hope someone out there will have those! Thanks in advance, bartles

Working on a Model HU700H, 961450024 01 I need to replace the rear wheel flange bearings as well as the drive pinion bearing in Part No. 585281901(adjuster). The bearings are not listed as an available part in Husqvarna's website. Thanks in advance, bartles

Good stuff!! This helps me narrow down my search pattern:D Thanks again for the knowledge share, bartles

Thanks for the info. I'm going to buy one as seen or do some junk yard diving to come up with an economical solution to finish this one out. I appreciate your input and information. bartles

Thanks! I've used POR 15 to seal a badly rusted motorcycle fuel tank. It worked very well. I appreciate you help! bartles

I was given a Sears TYS4500, model 917.289903 with a 26HP Kohler Spec: PA-SV735-3021. There's always a story with something given away. The givers neighbor bought it new and very soon after it was delivered the engine "failed". Sears came out and replaced the failed engine under warranty...

Sorry to reply so late. What? JB Weld is not the king?😁 Sounds like a repair path to take for sure. I have not gotten out to look for Devcon but I'll so that asap...Thanks again!! bartles

Many thanks for the advice. That's a good plan and probably the only way to tighten up the slack between the axle n wheel bore. Appreciate your reply and skills, bartles

I got some new keystock and it does fit tight at each end of the axle. The major wear to the axle shaft and the wheel bore is in the middle of both. I put in a new piece cut as long as possible and the fit up is good. Excessive wear to the axle and the wheel bore has still caused slack...

The keyway in the shaft and the wheel is a problem. I could bore out the wheel to fit a bushing but I don't have a shaper or broaches to machine an internal keyway. I think I'm left with using very thin shim stock to tighten up the clearance opposite the keyway between the wheel bore and the...

Thanks for your reply. The "slack" I'm talking about has happened because the shaft, keyway, and wheel bore all have wear that causes the tire/wheel to have a little wobble. Using washers on the axle will take up the "in and out" movement of the wheel. I'm trying to come up with a solution...

I am working on a Snapper Model: YZ13331BE(Snapper Crusier) with Eaton X778-011 Transaxles The axle shafts(1" OD) and wheels are both worn...about .002-.003 of "wobble". The keyways, according to the Snapper parts book are 6mm square. The keyways are worn also. It appears the keys are...

Thanks for the help...sort of wondered why it was a swivel joint! I appreciate all the help I have received from the members in this forum. I hope you all have a great 2023!!

Working on a Model 287707-0153 01, Code 930408-A: The nylon fuel (elbow) connection is cracked and leaking..need to replace it. There is a brass connection in the carb that the nylon fitting is pressed to swivel?...is it pressed in the carb body or screwed in? How should the replacement part...

I ran across your post recently while searching for articles about the Cruiser. Just curious, what did you do about your broken housing? I recently acquired a 33" Cruiser. (I see not much is out there about them or supporting the hydros.)

Yep, brakes are not stuck. The mower will push with the bypass valves engaged. With the bypass valves engaged it is difficult to push. Maybe there is hope the hydraulics are ok. Thanks for your input.

Hey Walt....don't know if you remember me, bought a bunch of Dixon parts from you years ago. You'd be happy to know I restore both of the 3304's I acquired using a lot of the inventory you shipped to me. I sold one and restored the other one as a keeper. I use it to tow around a spray rig. I...

I just acquired a Model YZ13331 BE "Yard Cruiser" , S/N 85570198. Previous owner said it tries to move when the joystick is moved but all you get is "a hydraulic sound like it's trying to move". (Hows that for a description?) I see is has Eaton X778-01 drives. Would appreciate hearing from...

Thanks for the tip!

True that.................................I put the old carb back on with no change. Crankcase leak is making sense.

Well I got the gaskets covered but I honestly did not consider a crankshaft seal leak. Thanks again, I'll test the crankcase for a leak elsewhere....thanks you a bunch!!