Worn axles

[bartles]

I am working on a Snapper Model: YZ13331BE(Snapper Crusier) with Eaton X778-011 Transaxles

The axle shafts(1" OD) and wheels are both worn...about .002-.003 of "wobble". The keyways, according to the Snapper parts book
are 6mm square. The keyways are worn also. It appears the keys are shorter than what could be put in the allowable length. A new key fits tightly on the very ends of the axle keyway but the middle of the keyway is worn. The axle/wheel arrangement is probably typical...hand pressed wheels onto the axles with a washer and an E-clip.

The obvious concern is, unless something is done to tighten up the fit, the key will continue to wear on the axle shaft and the wheel bore and would eventually shear. Eaton no
longer offers product support for these units. The easy fix, replacing the axles and the wheels, is not an option...probably would be expensive anyway.

I'd appreciate suggestions of how best to reduce the free play between the axles and the wheel bores.

 

[mechanic mark]

Clean axle shafts thoroughly & apply a liberal amount of Antiseize Compound covering axle shafts. Antiseize prevents friction & wheels being seized to axles. I would use washers on the axles to shorten up free-play.

anti seize lubricant - Google Search

 

[7394]

On a Peerless 6 speed I had long ago it was the aluminim housing wearing & not the steel axles.. Just my .02

 

[bartles]

Clean axle shafts thoroughly & apply a liberal amount of Antiseize Compound covering axle shafts. Antiseize prevents friction & wheels being seized to axles. I would use washers on the axles to shorten up free-play.

anti seize lubricant - Google Search

Thanks for your reply. The "slack" I'm talking about has happened because the shaft, keyway, and wheel bore all have wear that causes the tire/wheel to have a little wobble. Using washers on the axle will take up the "in and out" movement of the wheel. I'm trying to come up with a solution to the worn surfaces of the axle and the bore of the wheel.

If you have more suggestions please let me know. I appreciate you help!!!

PS: Love that "Never Seize"

 

[mechanic mark]

Is there enough room to install a bushing after you take measurements with a caliper?

 

[bartles]

Is there enough room to install a bushing after you take measurements with a caliper?

The keyway in the shaft and the wheel is a problem. I could bore out the wheel to fit a bushing but I don't have a shaper or broaches to machine an internal keyway. I think I'm left with using very thin shim stock to tighten up the clearance opposite the keyway between the wheel bore and the axle shaft.

Another "redneck" approach is to "tack" weld in a few spots on the axle and file those down until the wheel is tighter on the shaft.
Keeping the axle shaft cool after each weld is going to be tricky to prevent damaging the seal in the axle housing.

I appreciate your interest so if you can think of a fix please let me know.

bartles

 

[mechanic mark]

Would new key stock be a tight fit in axle keyway?
Can you install a bushing to fit inside wheel hub? Is there enough room in wheel hub to drill tap & install a long set screw over setscrew?

 

[bartles]

Would new key stock be a tight fit in axle keyway?

I got some new keystock and it does fit tight at each end of the axle. The major wear to the axle shaft and the wheel bore
is in the middle of both. I put in a new piece cut as long as possible and the fit up is good. Excessive wear to the axle and the wheel bore has still caused slack between the two.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Key steel comes in a variety of sizes & shapes.
You can get a rectangular section and file out the sides of both slots with a rat rail file or a safe edge file
Or just get a bigger section & file all 3 sides in each slot .
Remember that the wheel is not a timing slot so if you take different amounts from either side it won't matter

 

[bartles]

Key steel comes in a variety of sizes & shapes.
You can get a rectangular section and file out the sides of both slots with a rat rail file or a safe edge file
Or just get a bigger section & file all 3 sides in each slot .
Remember that the wheel is not a timing slot so if you take different amounts from either side it won't matter

Many thanks for the advice. That's a good plan and probably the only way to tighten up the slack between the axle n wheel bore.

Appreciate your reply and skills,

bartles