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If your belt is in good condition and tight , might take a closer look at your clutch , you never know Also look at the spindles and make sure there's no binding on any of them.

New blades maybe bigger strain on the belt , might need a new belt, if it's squealing and it's tight, Get a new one

The clutch has electric engagement so pulling the connection off takes it out of play , if it still binds up the engine so it will not start,,,,,,,, either you have a battery or connection problem or possibly an engine problem. It's possible the clutch is causing the problem but to be honest...

Pull the wires " connection " Off the clutch, Start your mower - this will eliminate the pto from your machine, if all goes well , let us know and we'll go forward from there, I've never seen a PTO locking up in all my previous mechanical issues. ----------- especially 2 times on the same...

We're going to need more information with your machine and it's issues before anyone can point you in the right direction

If you followed my post you should know if your solenoid / switch / or connection is the culprit

Hop 12 volts to the small terminal on the solenoid ,if it kicks into start, the solenoid is good but you have a bad switch or connection

Safety's ?

if it restarts again , you have a fuel delivery problem.

if it restarts again , you have a fuel delivery problem.

I've rewired a few machines and just did away with all the safety switches, makes life simple

No downside to adding an oil cooler

Battery operated Mowers will never hold up long term, IMOP- This Green Agenda is only lining some politician's pockets , Just my 2 cts

Garbage

Camshafts rarely wear out but it's possible no doubt, I've seen them with a " groove " worn into the hard surface which will effect the valve action - this would have to have a ton of hours to have happened, but today's quality control is iffy so nothing is off the table in this day and age...

Exhaust valves always have more clearance than the intake valves. The last one I did I think I set the intake at .006 and the exhaust at .010 - test compression after to see what you have

The cap is usually vented , you can just loosen it up and try and see if it makes a difference

Pull off the cable connection at the carb- Move the throttle lever by hand until full throttle position, then move the throttle cable to Max speed then clamp down at that point, Now move throttle control and check for full travel , your new cable possibly doesn't have as much travel as your old...

I suspect fuel issue , start at the tank and work down to the carb , make sure the tank is vented and fuel line clear

No the spark plug

Pull your plug and make sure the machine rolls over easily, if it dose not there is a mechanical issue with the crankshaft - con rod - valves etc. If it does then look at your starter

Pull the starter and bench test it, clamp it down tight and put battery voltage on it , it should spin like crazy and almost jump off the bench if it's good.

I don't have access to the wiring diagram but one of the places the run wire goes is to the kill solenoid under the carb.

Sounds like a bad ignition switch , after starter is engaged it should go back to On position sounds like it's going to off and grounding the coil

Sounds like a bad ground or battery connection

Nice

Oh will , I don't have access to all the data you seem to have hope he figures it out with your help and input

Put a test light on your starter switch and make sure it's seeing 12 volts, then turn it to " On " and see where the 12volts show up on which terminal , this one would go to the kill solenoid at the carb, then move it to the start position and find out which terminal makes the test light come on...

Once you set your throttle to any position the governor should take over , you should be able to see the governor assembly floating back and forth to manage the machines speed, if it does not, it could overspeed and cause lots of problems and actually throw a rod and tear up your machine. If...

The ground wire to the ignition coil is how all the safeties and ignition kill make the engine die no matter the color

Sounds like your kill switch wire is shorted out to ground , chase it back to the ignition switch , pull it off there and test to ground I'm betting you find continuity to ground - if so just run a new wire and you should be ok

How long have you had this machine ? You should be able to tell if the idler pully is not there, All decks have an idler pully to keep tension on the deck belt , it also should " Float " freely to allow a little play.

I would swap the switch out with another and see if the problem goes away, the internals of the switch can't be cleaned if they get corroded , it sounds like yours is Wonky

Jump 12 volts to the small terminal on the solenoid where the starting circuit ties in from the ignition switch , if it engages the solenoid then you have a bad ignition switch or wire in that circuit

Small gas engines can test your patience for sure

Might look at the fuel line - Can't think of anything else you might have over looked, " filter ?" Tank vent ?

I've rebuilt a number of them , not sure what " plastic " he's talking about unless it's the bearing seal I've gotten complete spindle housings from amazon a few times with good results, If you get the nut removed you can knock the bearing out and get a number off them and order replacement...

I would say yes since the connection is open now with the damage, tie together should satisfy the circuit

You'll need a test light or volt meter before going any further, see if there is 12 volts at battery terminals , one side of solenoid should have 12 volts for starters then check for voltage at the starter switch

I ran into one of these auto choke setups and couldn't find a replacement, I added a Primer bulb to shoot a bit of fuel into the carb and it starts easily with out a choke , next time you try and start it squirt some starting fluid into the air intake and see if it starts up for you. It sounds...

Well then it's a safety switch, There are several to look at, Seat Clutch engagement Brake for starters but looking at your pics - you'll need to chase down the mating wires for those 2 red guys - these will be on the opposite plug so find out where they go first and should get you going in...

If everything works I wouldn't worry with them , if something doesn't work , there's your answer

Kubota has a lot of parts that cannot be swapped out with other brands I noticed.

Coils can stop working after getting hot ,sorta rare but happens sometime , when it happens again , see if there is still a spark at the plug , if not it's probably the coil

If it's firing shoot a little starting fluid in the intake and see if it starts for a few seconds if it does then it's fuel and don't rule out the plug even if it's new

Make sue it's not fuel related first , your tank vent possibly is plugged off , then check for fire if / when it happens again , still have fire , it's fuel related In my opinion

Good to have the schematics to reference Thanks for your input

Safety switches will not let your starter engage so not a safety switch issue , clean the magnets good on the flywheel and the coil where it relates to the flywheel magnets. There is a ground wire at the coil you can pull off and see if it sparks then , if it does it's not the coil

Doubtful , it's most likely the carb float / needle valve not seating as Rivets said

Grease all the areas you can , some spindles have zerks most do not , sharpen the blades and go for it .