I picked up a toro recycler 22 with Briggs 128m02-3425-b1 engine. Compression was very weak, I lapped the valve seats and it started up and ran great. I did a 10 minute or so test cut, changed the drive belt and cut my front yard. Ran great. I changed the oil, and it hasn't started since. It may have been overfilled, I have removed some oil. I do have spark, valve clearances are .007 intake and .008 exhaust. Compression seems weak, though it seems to have a compression relief. I get just under 60 lbs on my compression gauge. I have changed the head gasket. I have tried starting fluid, no fire. Cylinder head torqued to 17ft-lbs, I thought it was a Tecumseh at first. Any suggestions?
Toro Recycler, Briggs engine quit working after oil change
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20oz is the correct amount of oil
just under 60psi is usually what i see on those briggs engines.. is your spark plug gap right? And were your valve clearances at that value before or after you lapped the valves?
just under 60psi is usually what i see on those briggs engines.. is your spark plug gap right? And were your valve clearances at that value before or after you lapped the valves?
I don't know what the valve clearances were before, I couldn't find my feeler gauge. I could tell the intake was leaking though. After, the intake was about .002, exhaust .007. It's one of those funky plugs with a y looking electrode, and it's new. I put it in another machine and it runs anyhow. I also tried the original plug, though it's not known good.
You didn't by any chance hit something with your blade? Are you saying you have spark, but no start with started fluid? You haven't mentioned the air filter which could be clogged, but I'm leaning toward timing.
My spark tester shows spark. No fire with starting fluid. Air filter is new. I don't feel like I hit much of anything with the blade, though there are roots in the yard... I did a full cut of my front yard, changed the oil, and it wouldn't start. How do you set the coil air gap? With a feeler gauge? What should it be? I tried to replace the coil, but the one I got has the mounting holes just a wee bit too close together. Of course when I was looking for a coil, I thought it was a Tecumseh motor. I got a new spark tester, which works much better than my old one, which I can't see in daylight. With the new spark tester, I do see spark. Can you do a visual check on the timing? Pull the head, and compare where the magnet passes the coil to the cylinder passing TDC? This is all a lot deeper than I'd normally go for a mower, but I currently have the time. Thanks for the input.
dougand3
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How do you set the coil air gap? I use a business card between the coil legs & magnets.
Can you do a visual check on the timing? Flywheel key has sheared - can be just a tiny bit. No other answers - pull FW to check well.
You have fuel/air, compression & spark - gotta think timing.
Can you do a visual check on the timing? Flywheel key has sheared - can be just a tiny bit. No other answers - pull FW to check well.
You have fuel/air, compression & spark - gotta think timing.
Keep in mind, the spark tester will tell you the whole ignition system is good or bad EXCEPT the spark plug. Remove the plug from the engine and plug it back into the boot. Get help and hold the plug against a ground while your helper pulls the starter rope and see if the plug itself is actually firing. Yes, use a business card for coil gap. If none of this has helped, remove the flywheel and very carefully inspect the key. Replace the key if it is worn or broken.
I can't see a spark, but that may be me. I put the plug in a generator and started it. Timing is obviously off, see the pic.
Thanks.