stuck rear wheel

Carscw

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I'm not talking about bagging the h@ll out it. Hitting an inflated tire is not like hitting a solid rim. The PB blaster is the trick by standing the axle in its end and letting in leach into the axle to loosen the rust. It does most of the work. But you have to put the axle in a position to allow it to penetrate.you guys are making far more to this than needed.

Removing the transaxle is easy for some. But most of the people that come here looking for help. Do not know or want to do that.
 

The.kid

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Removing the transaxle is easy for some. But most of the people that come here looking for help. Do not know or want to do that.
Not that bad if you have a jack stand and a hydraulic jack. Jack up and brace frame in front of rear wheels to get wheels off ground. There are six bolts holding the transaxle. Two in the front of the transaxle and two on each axle sides. Take the two front ones loose first. Put jack under the axle before removing support bolts. The idler tensioner on mine can be taken loose from the bottom to allow the belt to clear. Make sure all springs and cables disconnected. Take pictures as you disassemble. Then lower the transaxle after removing support bolts.

I had to free up the brake on mine and the wheels where in the way. When I found the wheels froze to the axles the PB Blaster was the trick and slight tapping the axle with the retainer bolt screed partially in. Then started popping the tire as I rolled it and it popped off. The rusty part will probably be near the retainer bolt and be around an inch down the shaft of the axle. Sanded down and regreased. There is several videos on YouTube showing this method. Used a similar method removing a steering wheel on my Massey

No candle or torch needed. Just a tad of patience.
 

reynoldston

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Not that bad if you have a jack stand and a hydraulic jack. Jack up and brace frame in front of rear wheels to get wheels off ground. There are six bolts holding the transaxle. Two in the front of the transaxle and two on each axle sides. Take the two front ones loose first. Put jack under the axle before removing support bolts. The idler tensioner on mine can be taken loose from the bottom to allow the belt to clear. Make sure all springs and cables disconnected. Take pictures as you disassemble. Then lower the transaxle after removing support bolts.

I had to free up the brake on mine and the wheels where in the way. When I found the wheels froze to the axles the PB Blaster was the trick and slight tapping the axle with the retainer bolt screed partially in. Then started popping the tire as I rolled it and it popped off. The rusty part will probably be near the retainer bolt and be around an inch down the shaft of the axle. Sanded down and regreased. There is several videos on YouTube showing this method. Used a similar method removing a steering wheel on my Massey

No candle or torch needed. Just a tad of patience.

Yes 99% of the time you can get them off like you said. I have seen them that that are rusted so bad they just don't come off no matter what you do. Also I am working on customers equipment. You or I have no idea the situation the OP is having and I am thinking the worst. If your solution works for the OP wonderful :thumbsup: The more ideas the better but don't nock someone else's idea. As I said never tried the wax idea but can always learn new tricks.
 

The.kid

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Yes 99% of the time you can get them off like you said. I have seen them that that are rusted so bad they just don't come off no matter what you do. Also I am working on customers equipment. You or I have no idea the situation the OP is having and I am thinking the worst. If your solution works for the OP wonderful :thumbsup: The more ideas the better but don't nock someone else's idea. As I said never tried the wax idea but can always learn new tricks.
You need to direct that criticism to the guy that insinuated I was beating the rim off. I was mearly clarifying my method which may have not been clear. Nock is spelled with a K. :)
 

reynoldston

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You need to direct that criticism to the guy that insinuated I was beating the rim off. I was mearly clarifying my method which may have not been clear. Nock is spelled with a K. :)

If you are looking for proper grammar and spelling this forum this isn't a spelling test. What in the world different doesn't it hurt how Nock or Knock is spelled :confused2: Yes I do agree a big hammer is needed some times, so nothing wrong with a real big NOCK to make things move. Sorry you took it as criticism because it wasn't intended that way.
 

bertsmobile1

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Not that bad if you have a jack stand and a hydraulic jack. Jack up and brace frame in front of rear wheels to get wheels off ground. There are six bolts holding the transaxle. Two in the front of the transaxle and two on each axle sides. Take the two front ones loose first. Put jack under the axle before removing support bolts. The idler tensioner on mine can be taken loose from the bottom to allow the belt to clear. Make sure all springs and cables disconnected. Take pictures as you disassemble. Then lower the transaxle after removing support bolts.

I had to free up the brake on mine and the wheels where in the way. When I found the wheels froze to the axles the PB Blaster was the trick and slight tapping the axle with the retainer bolt screed partially in. Then started popping the tire as I rolled it and it popped off. The rusty part will probably be near the retainer bolt and be around an inch down the shaft of the axle. Sanded down and regreased. There is several videos on YouTube showing this method. Used a similar method removing a steering wheel on my Massey

No candle or torch needed. Just a tad of patience.

And possibly to remove the brake as well as the motion controls.
 

Carscw

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My point was. That most people that come here looking for help. Do not want to remove the transaxle. They want the easiest way to get the job done.
Most of us here know how to remove a transaxle. But thank you for your instructions.
 

Carscw

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And most riding mowers do not have a bolt holding the wheel on.
Heating the wheel and melding wax is a whole lot less work. Then removing the transaxle.
I know guys that have used a whole can of blast. And still did not get the wheel off.
 

The.kid

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And most riding mowers do not have a bolt holding the wheel on.
Heating the wheel and melding wax is a whole lot less work. Then removing the transaxle.
I know guys that have used a whole can of blast. And still did not get the wheel off.
Well you did say 99% of the time. So the odds are in his favor. All I added is what worked for me. I don't repair mowers for a living. I used a method that seemed to work for others judging from the comments below that video. I tried it. It worked. Your mileage may vary. =TheKid=
 
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