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stuck rear wheel

#1

W

wheelie

ACE/MTD 14.5 IC 42 inch cut
7 Speed Deluxe
Model 13AM673G033
Serial 1D290B80145

I thought this would be al over the place but turned up nothing using search..

Any ideas on removing rear wheel from the axle

Thank You..


#2

B

bertsmobile1

Don't use too much force.
A good penetrating oil front & back,
Tap off tap on tap off tap on tap off eventually it will come off.
About 1 in 10 will just not budge so the box gets split with the wheels still on the shaft & then the shaft can be pressed out.
When you get it back on grease the axel.
Marine grease is good for this.
Then do the other side. They should be done every few years or so.


#3

reynoldston

reynoldston

Another idea would be to split the hub with a cutting wheel to remove it. Then install a used wheel off of E-Bay. If you are removing the wheel to change the tire, it is a little tricky but the tire can be changed right on the tractor.


#4

W

wheelie

thanks for the thoughts.. I think I am going to leave tires on and try to put a tube in.:rolleyes:


#5

reynoldston

reynoldston

thanks for the thoughts.. I think I am going to leave tires on and try to put a tube in.:rolleyes:

That is a good plan :thumbsup:


#6

T

The.kid

ACE/MTD 14.5 IC 42 inch cut
7 Speed Deluxe
Model 13AM673G033
Serial 1D290B80145

I thought this would be al over the place but turned up nothing using search..

Any ideas on removing rear wheel from the axle

Thank You..

Hello, I just joined and can relate to your problem. I have a Yard Machines and it had a froze up brake. I couldn't get the rear wheels off. So here is what I did. I removed the transaxle with wheels still attached. I stood up the transaxle on one of the wheels. I sprayed PB blaster into the axle area where it meets the wheel on the inside. Flipped it over and did the other wheel. I waited awhile to see if it penetrated. Gave a second dose. Then layer both wheels on the surface and took a ruler mallet and started hitting the tire on the inside and turning the wheel. It eventually broke the wheel loose from the axle and removed. Did the same to the other wheel. Sanded the axles with some 1000 wet dry and greased them well before reinstalling. Good luck.


#7

B

bertsmobile1

One of the first jobs that cam into the workshop was a 3 legged LTH1842 ( AYP )
The right rear was flat and the trailer was not available .
The wheel would not come off so they tied it to the truck and drove away.
It came off, so did the axel.
They hammered it back in and mowed the acres only turning right or the wheel would fall out.

The bill went around $ 700


#8

Carscw

Carscw

This is really not a problem.
Do not try and knock the wheel off by hitting the back side.
Here are two easy ways to get the wheel off without breaking anything.

If you have a propane torch heat the axle and wheel and melt wax in between them. Let cool and slide the wheel off.

Flip mower on its side. Put a strap around the wheel and lift the mower off the ground by the strap. So the wheel Is holding the mower up. Put a rod or bolt on the shaft and hit with a hammer.


#9

reynoldston

reynoldston

.

If you have a propane torch heat the axle and wheel and melt wax in between them. Let cool and slide the wheel off.

.

I have herd of this before but never tried it. What do you use just candle wax?


#10

T

The.kid

This is really not a problem.
Do not try and knock the wheel off by hitting the back side.
Here are two easy ways to get the wheel off without breaking anything.

If you have a propane torch heat the axle and wheel and melt wax in between them. Let cool and slide the wheel off.

Flip mower on its side. Put a strap around the wheel and lift the mower off the ground by the strap. So the wheel Is holding the mower up. Put a rod or bolt on the shaft and hit with a hammer.

I'm not talking about bagging the h@ll out it. Hitting an inflated tire is not like hitting a solid rim. The PB blaster is the trick by standing the axle in its end and letting in leach into the axle to loosen the rust. It does most of the work. But you have to put the axle in a position to allow it to penetrate.you guys are making far more to this than needed.


#11

Carscw

Carscw

I have herd of this before but never tried it. What do you use just candle wax?

I use cooking wax works a lot better then candles.


#12

Carscw

Carscw

I'm not talking about bagging the h@ll out it. Hitting an inflated tire is not like hitting a solid rim. The PB blaster is the trick by standing the axle in its end and letting in leach into the axle to loosen the rust. It does most of the work. But you have to put the axle in a position to allow it to penetrate.you guys are making far more to this than needed.

Removing the transaxle is easy for some. But most of the people that come here looking for help. Do not know or want to do that.


#13

T

The.kid

Removing the transaxle is easy for some. But most of the people that come here looking for help. Do not know or want to do that.
Not that bad if you have a jack stand and a hydraulic jack. Jack up and brace frame in front of rear wheels to get wheels off ground. There are six bolts holding the transaxle. Two in the front of the transaxle and two on each axle sides. Take the two front ones loose first. Put jack under the axle before removing support bolts. The idler tensioner on mine can be taken loose from the bottom to allow the belt to clear. Make sure all springs and cables disconnected. Take pictures as you disassemble. Then lower the transaxle after removing support bolts.

I had to free up the brake on mine and the wheels where in the way. When I found the wheels froze to the axles the PB Blaster was the trick and slight tapping the axle with the retainer bolt screed partially in. Then started popping the tire as I rolled it and it popped off. The rusty part will probably be near the retainer bolt and be around an inch down the shaft of the axle. Sanded down and regreased. There is several videos on YouTube showing this method. Used a similar method removing a steering wheel on my Massey

No candle or torch needed. Just a tad of patience.


#14

reynoldston

reynoldston

Not that bad if you have a jack stand and a hydraulic jack. Jack up and brace frame in front of rear wheels to get wheels off ground. There are six bolts holding the transaxle. Two in the front of the transaxle and two on each axle sides. Take the two front ones loose first. Put jack under the axle before removing support bolts. The idler tensioner on mine can be taken loose from the bottom to allow the belt to clear. Make sure all springs and cables disconnected. Take pictures as you disassemble. Then lower the transaxle after removing support bolts.

I had to free up the brake on mine and the wheels where in the way. When I found the wheels froze to the axles the PB Blaster was the trick and slight tapping the axle with the retainer bolt screed partially in. Then started popping the tire as I rolled it and it popped off. The rusty part will probably be near the retainer bolt and be around an inch down the shaft of the axle. Sanded down and regreased. There is several videos on YouTube showing this method. Used a similar method removing a steering wheel on my Massey

No candle or torch needed. Just a tad of patience.

Yes 99% of the time you can get them off like you said. I have seen them that that are rusted so bad they just don't come off no matter what you do. Also I am working on customers equipment. You or I have no idea the situation the OP is having and I am thinking the worst. If your solution works for the OP wonderful :thumbsup: The more ideas the better but don't nock someone else's idea. As I said never tried the wax idea but can always learn new tricks.


#15

T

The.kid

Yes 99% of the time you can get them off like you said. I have seen them that that are rusted so bad they just don't come off no matter what you do. Also I am working on customers equipment. You or I have no idea the situation the OP is having and I am thinking the worst. If your solution works for the OP wonderful :thumbsup: The more ideas the better but don't nock someone else's idea. As I said never tried the wax idea but can always learn new tricks.
You need to direct that criticism to the guy that insinuated I was beating the rim off. I was mearly clarifying my method which may have not been clear. Nock is spelled with a K. :)


#16

reynoldston

reynoldston

You need to direct that criticism to the guy that insinuated I was beating the rim off. I was mearly clarifying my method which may have not been clear. Nock is spelled with a K. :)

If you are looking for proper grammar and spelling this forum this isn't a spelling test. What in the world different doesn't it hurt how Nock or Knock is spelled :confused2: Yes I do agree a big hammer is needed some times, so nothing wrong with a real big NOCK to make things move. Sorry you took it as criticism because it wasn't intended that way.


#17

B

bertsmobile1

Not that bad if you have a jack stand and a hydraulic jack. Jack up and brace frame in front of rear wheels to get wheels off ground. There are six bolts holding the transaxle. Two in the front of the transaxle and two on each axle sides. Take the two front ones loose first. Put jack under the axle before removing support bolts. The idler tensioner on mine can be taken loose from the bottom to allow the belt to clear. Make sure all springs and cables disconnected. Take pictures as you disassemble. Then lower the transaxle after removing support bolts.

I had to free up the brake on mine and the wheels where in the way. When I found the wheels froze to the axles the PB Blaster was the trick and slight tapping the axle with the retainer bolt screed partially in. Then started popping the tire as I rolled it and it popped off. The rusty part will probably be near the retainer bolt and be around an inch down the shaft of the axle. Sanded down and regreased. There is several videos on YouTube showing this method. Used a similar method removing a steering wheel on my Massey

No candle or torch needed. Just a tad of patience.

And possibly to remove the brake as well as the motion controls.


#18

Carscw

Carscw

My point was. That most people that come here looking for help. Do not want to remove the transaxle. They want the easiest way to get the job done.
Most of us here know how to remove a transaxle. But thank you for your instructions.


#19

Carscw

Carscw

And most riding mowers do not have a bolt holding the wheel on.
Heating the wheel and melding wax is a whole lot less work. Then removing the transaxle.
I know guys that have used a whole can of blast. And still did not get the wheel off.


#20

T

The.kid

And most riding mowers do not have a bolt holding the wheel on.
Heating the wheel and melding wax is a whole lot less work. Then removing the transaxle.
I know guys that have used a whole can of blast. And still did not get the wheel off.
Well you did say 99% of the time. So the odds are in his favor. All I added is what worked for me. I don't repair mowers for a living. I used a method that seemed to work for others judging from the comments below that video. I tried it. It worked. Your mileage may vary. =TheKid=


#21

reynoldston

reynoldston

Well you did say 99% of the time. So the odds are in his favor. All I added is what worked for me. I don't repair mowers for a living. I used a method that seemed to work for others judging from the comments below that video. I tried it. It worked. Your mileage may vary. =TheKid=[/QUO[/I]

I am well into my senior citizen years and retired for many years now. Still have a small repair shop doing lawn equipment and motorcycle work. I have done this type of work all my working years. Things I have found out is no two jobs are alike and never too old to learn something new.


#22

BlazNT

BlazNT

For all of you who are still posting we lost the original poster on the first page.


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