Strange case of evil

[proximus26]

If you were able to rotate the engine by hand in both directions then I feel either the engine was stopping due to oil in the cylinder or there is a problem with the starter mechanism. Oil running out of the muffler concerns me. Sorry about being stuck between me and my enemy, he just wants to make me look stupid. We'll get this solved together. For what it's worth, I have seen valve adjustment done the way you described, you do what works for you and your situation. Have to go to work now, won't be back until this evening, will look for your post.

Mower Doctor 78006, Rivet and Mr. Fish, you all helped me but I still need your help. I have oil in the cylinder and this is m problem. Valve seal are gone (first one, because engine start smoking dark oil now second... how to replace valve seals. As I susspected this is problem.

BTW... I guess you are are tooooo old to fight.... make it right... I`m new one here but I think you act like 5 years old, so Mr. Fish... let`s call it as past.... You ALL are great and each of you bring value and expertize to this forum. I saw it in this post. Thank you!

Please help me to tell me how to change valve seals... what part number should I get? I also need upper valve which I think is intake valve.

 

[Carscw]

Google your engine numbers to get the parts you need.
Watch a YouTube video on how to do the repair.

There is no way in hell that the 3 of them will agree on how to repair your engine.
The 3 of them all know how to fix just about any small engine but their egos and dislike for each other get in the way.
I suggest you pick one of them and send them a message.
If your not sure who to pick you can ask me.

 

[Mower Doctor 78006]

Here's the parts breakdown of your engine per your supplied model, date, and code. Just select the parts you are needing.


Parts and Diagrams for Briggs and Stratton 10T802-0547-B2

OK,

here is exact engine model: 10T802-0547-b2 code 07100554

 

[Fish]

Yeah, to be honest, none of us has encountered the seal that you have on your hands, and our massive egos don't want to let us
post anything that would give ammo to the others....... The last poster put up a link giving the part number, which appears to
go into the block in the valve adjust area with the valve out. No need to replace the valve unless it is boogered up.....
Here is a link from another forum by other Briggs techs that haven't seen this either.....

Small Engine Technical Forum • View topic - Removing/Replacing Valve Stem Oil Seal

 

[Fish]

OMG you all have took a easy fix and complicated the hell out of it.
Put your ego away and just help the guy get his mower going.

Not an easy fix, and not a small ego............

These forums have plenty of folks wanting "Free" help, so they won't have to pay anyone to fix their mower.....

So, they can wade through some rants from old pissed off guys!!!!!!!

A small price to pay!!!!!!

I tried going to a dentist and asked some questions, they were rude!!!!

Same with my car... I dropped by and asked some questions about my car, didn't get too far. if anyone wants some help here,
he should expect to trudge through some mud!!!!!!

 

[proximus26]

Not an easy fix, and not a small ego............

These forums have plenty of folks wanting "Free" help, so they won't have to pay anyone to fix their mower.....

So, they can wade through some rants from old pissed off guys!!!!!!!

A small price to pay!!!!!!

I tried going to a dentist and asked some questions, they were rude!!!!

Same with my car... I dropped by and asked some questions about my car, didn't get too far. if anyone wants some help here,
he should expect to trudge through some mud!!!!!!

Waiting on pats.

Now I will just find way to replace seal. Will let you how it went once done. I will take some pictures.

Thank you guys.

 

[spetho2001@msn.com]

Hello all,

I have Bolen 158cc with B&S 10T800 series push lawn mower. Well I used it 6 year before I have noticed that it drop in power and start chocking.
I was sure all is OK (oil, gas,filter) so only things would be bad will be valve problem.

I was right, I have adjusted valves as per specification, put all back together and my engine want to fly. Started like a charm, no problem. Run for about 2-3 minutes during which I have check if all was OK.

Then I decided to change oil. I checked oil amount specification, I got 10w-40 oil and poor into engine. Prior that I have empty out old oil.

All, good. Decided to run baby again.... and I couldn`t turn it. I feel so strong resistance. I couldn`t start engine. Engine has high compression point where wont turn over.

I ask my self... what a heck. Let me check valves setting..., no all OK, springs OK. All is OK. Still can turn baby. Looks like oil pressure is building up and not allowing to engine in order to start.

I should mention that during intake valve removal on the valve I saw small o-ring with spring in side. i have check this part and is called Retainer-Valve. I assume that it was located on the same place as shown on the engine diagram.

So... engine started after adjustments. Engine is not working after oil change? I can turn engine with both hands but not with starter line?

Any idea what is wrong?

Thank you

I have had two brand new mowers with Briggs engines with the carburetor mounted on top of the fuel tank that after a one season do the same as what you are saying. They are junk. You won't get it fixed. I have been told it is the diaphragm under the carburetor and I have been told it is the ethanol in the gas. What is a fact is that they do not have much of a carburetor. No bowl or needle and seat and more. I am trying a Troybilt and I did buy some straight gas (no ethanol)

 

[proximus26]

OK,

done. I have repaired this engine. Replaced:
diaphragm, valves (both bended from over heating) and oil seal on the valve. Why I know seal failed in first place... well engine does not smoke like crazy anymore.
There is no other way to remove oil seal like use sharp and thin tool or micro screw driver and in two hammer hit it was out. Valve need to be replaced because was bend.... well with next valve adjustment I would destroy seal again anyway if valve would not be replaced.

Now all works like new. No problem at all.

Regards gas... well I have CENEX gas station close by which do have none ethanol premium gas. I used for all my garden tools, motorcycle and my generation. SO far works great. If you do have gas with ethanol you can use some chemical to keep it extend it own life. Usually ethanol will evaporate in 3 months from you gas leaving a LOT of nasty residue on all elements in the engine. I have learn my lesson after few motorcycle carburetor cleaning jobs.

Questions? Let me know.?