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Strange case of evil
#1
P
proximus26
P
proximus26
Hello all,
I have Bolen 158cc with B&S 10T800 series push lawn mower. Well I used it 6 year before I have noticed that it drop in power and start chocking.
I was sure all is OK (oil, gas,filter) so only things would be bad will be valve problem.
I was right, I have adjusted valves as per specification, put all back together and my engine want to fly. Started like a charm, no problem. Run for about 2-3 minutes during which I have check if all was OK.
Then I decided to change oil. I checked oil amount specification, I got 10w-40 oil and poor into engine. Prior that I have empty out old oil.
All, good. Decided to run baby again.... and I couldn`t turn it. I feel so strong resistance. I couldn`t start engine. Engine has high compression point where wont turn over.
I ask my self... what a heck. Let me check valves setting..., no all OK, springs OK. All is OK. Still can turn baby. Looks like oil pressure is building up and not allowing to engine in order to start.
I should mention that during intake valve removal on the valve I saw small o-ring with spring in side. i have check this part and is called Retainer-Valve. I assume that it was located on the same place as shown on the engine diagram.
So... engine started after adjustments. Engine is not working after oil change? I can turn engine with both hands but not with starter line?
Any idea what is wrong?
Thank you
I have Bolen 158cc with B&S 10T800 series push lawn mower. Well I used it 6 year before I have noticed that it drop in power and start chocking.
I was sure all is OK (oil, gas,filter) so only things would be bad will be valve problem.
I was right, I have adjusted valves as per specification, put all back together and my engine want to fly. Started like a charm, no problem. Run for about 2-3 minutes during which I have check if all was OK.
Then I decided to change oil. I checked oil amount specification, I got 10w-40 oil and poor into engine. Prior that I have empty out old oil.
All, good. Decided to run baby again.... and I couldn`t turn it. I feel so strong resistance. I couldn`t start engine. Engine has high compression point where wont turn over.
I ask my self... what a heck. Let me check valves setting..., no all OK, springs OK. All is OK. Still can turn baby. Looks like oil pressure is building up and not allowing to engine in order to start.
I should mention that during intake valve removal on the valve I saw small o-ring with spring in side. i have check this part and is called Retainer-Valve. I assume that it was located on the same place as shown on the engine diagram.
So... engine started after adjustments. Engine is not working after oil change? I can turn engine with both hands but not with starter line?
Any idea what is wrong?
Thank you
#2
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Many thing come to mind after reading your thread. First, Briggs does not recommend 10W-40 oil for their engines. I would replace it with straight 30W. Second, the O-ring you found is an intake valve seal. This keeps oil from being sucked into the cylinder. Third, how did you set the valves? This is what I would do.
1. Remove the spark plug from the engine and see if the engine will turn over by hand, not with the starter.
2. Check the valve adjustments again. If you need a manual, post all engine numbers and I will post one.
3. Replace valve seal.
4. Change oil.
5. Try turning engine over with starter, no plug.
6. Install plug and try starting.
1. Remove the spark plug from the engine and see if the engine will turn over by hand, not with the starter.
2. Check the valve adjustments again. If you need a manual, post all engine numbers and I will post one.
3. Replace valve seal.
4. Change oil.
5. Try turning engine over with starter, no plug.
6. Install plug and try starting.
#3
Mower Doctor 78006
Mower Doctor 78006
That sounds like the briggs classic style engine with the carb mounted on top of the gas-tank. over time the diaphragms dry out and cause a poor running condition. There about 4 bucks to replace. Its an L head engine. There's no valves to set. If you left the mower on its side and the carb drained in to crank case, pull spark plug and rotate mower blade by hand. That will clear out the hydro lock. Re install plug. It should run after that. That's why you can't pull the starter rope. Be sure you only use 20 Ounces of oil.
Hello all,
I have Bolen 158cc with B&S 10T800 series push lawn mower. Well I used it 6 year before I have noticed that it drop in power and start chocking.
I was sure all is OK (oil, gas,filter) so only things would be bad will be valve problem.
I was right, I have adjusted valves as per specification, put all back together and my engine want to fly. Started like a charm, no problem. Run for about 2-3 minutes during which I have check if all was OK.
Then I decided to change oil. I checked oil amount specification, I got 10w-40 oil and poor into engine. Prior that I have empty out old oil.
All, good. Decided to run baby again.... and I couldn`t turn it. I feel so strong resistance. I couldn`t start engine. Engine has high compression point where wont turn over.
I ask my self... what a heck. Let me check valves setting..., no all OK, springs OK. All is OK. Still can turn baby. Looks like oil pressure is building up and not allowing to engine in order to start.
I should mention that during intake valve removal on the valve I saw small o-ring with spring in side. i have check this part and is called Retainer-Valve. I assume that it was located on the same place as shown on the engine diagram.
So... engine started after adjustments. Engine is not working after oil change? I can turn engine with both hands but not with starter line?
Any idea what is wrong?
Thank you
#4
P
proximus26
Engine model is Briggs & Stratton 10T802-0018 550 Series Engine
I think this is correct model:158cc Briggs & Stratton Vertical Engine 10T802-0018-B1
I think you are right. I think valve seal might be a problem.
I have already changed oil to meet specification. Still same symptom. Valves were set incorrectly. I removed cylinder head and I could move them around like they never set correctly. I have adjusted valve and checked valve seat spacing, all was OK, as per manual.
I think missing valve seal might allowing oil to get into engine and this is why I can`t turn engine. Now this also explain why engine was smoking bad dark smoke... I guess one of seals failed at this point....
Should I order seals and valve or just valve seal only?
BTW I found this picture: http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratt...&sr=1-6&keywords=Briggs+&+Stratton+valve+seal
I can tell that my part is broken because only top rubber part of this seal come out. This happen because I had problems to remove valve. maybe it was bend and during extraction destroyed this part of the seal.
I think this what I should change. How to replace this part?
OK< now I see where is engine number located on the engine. I will read correct model once I will be back home.
This small bugger give me more problems then my 2006 Jetta during timing belt replacement....
Thank you.
P
proximus26
Many thing come to mind after reading your thread. First, Briggs does not recommend 10W-40 oil for their engines. I would replace it with straight 30W. Second, the O-ring you found is an intake valve seal. This keeps oil from being sucked into the cylinder. Third, how did you set the valves? This is what I would do.
1. Remove the spark plug from the engine and see if the engine will turn over by hand, not with the starter.
2. Check the valve adjustments again. If you need a manual, post all engine numbers and I will post one.
3. Replace valve seal.
4. Change oil.
5. Try turning engine over with starter, no plug.
6. Install plug and try starting.
Engine model is Briggs & Stratton 10T802-0018 550 Series Engine
I think this is correct model:158cc Briggs & Stratton Vertical Engine 10T802-0018-B1
I think you are right. I think valve seal might be a problem.
I have already changed oil to meet specification. Still same symptom. Valves were set incorrectly. I removed cylinder head and I could move them around like they never set correctly. I have adjusted valve and checked valve seat spacing, all was OK, as per manual.
I think missing valve seal might allowing oil to get into engine and this is why I can`t turn engine. Now this also explain why engine was smoking bad dark smoke... I guess one of seals failed at this point....
Should I order seals and valve or just valve seal only?
BTW I found this picture: http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratt...&sr=1-6&keywords=Briggs+&+Stratton+valve+seal
I can tell that my part is broken because only top rubber part of this seal come out. This happen because I had problems to remove valve. maybe it was bend and during extraction destroyed this part of the seal.
I think this what I should change. How to replace this part?
OK< now I see where is engine number located on the engine. I will read correct model once I will be back home.
This small bugger give me more problems then my 2006 Jetta during timing belt replacement....
Thank you.
#5
Mower Doctor 78006
Mower Doctor 78006
Please explain how you set valves on an L head briggs engine??
Engine model is Briggs & Stratton 10T802-0018 550 Series Engine
I think this is correct model:158cc Briggs & Stratton Vertical Engine 10T802-0018-B1
I think you are right. I think valve seal might be a problem.
I have already changed oil to meet specification. Still same symptom. Valves were set incorrectly. I removed cylinder head and I could move them around like they never set correctly. I have adjusted valve and checked valve seat spacing, all was OK, as per manual.
I think missing valve seal might allowing oil to get into engine and this is why I can`t turn engine. Now this also explain why engine was smoking bad dark smoke... I guess one of seals failed at this point....
Should I order seals and valve or just valve seal only?
BTW I found this picture: Amazon.com: Briggs & Stratton 691963 Valve Seal Replacement for Models 805094 and 691963: Patio, Lawn & Garden
I can tell that my part is broken because only top rubber part of this seal come out. This happen because I had problems to remove valve. maybe it was bend and during extraction destroyed this part of the seal.
I think this what I should change. How to replace this part?
OK< now I see where is engine number located on the engine. I will read correct model once I will be back home.
This small bugger give me more problems then my 2006 Jetta during timing belt replacement....
Thank you.
Attachments
#6
P
proximus26
Well,
Is something I did incorrectly?
Valve setting is something I need to do every 5k on my Yamaha Virago.
Problem is, as I mentioned one of valve seal come off, where other not. What I think this need to be replaced because seal was blow off (once I have start up engine) because was not attached anymore to mental ring I showed before (amazon picture).
P
proximus26
Please explain how you set valves on an L head briggs engine??
Well,
- I have removed cylinder head. Put engine in top dead center (TDC).
- I open side side for valves entry.
- Measured space between end of valves and core support (I could not even enter 0.05 mm gauge meter). Then I have noticed that valves does not close properly.
- I grind off end valve, measuring every time if they OK (install, remove, repeat).
- Closed, fire up... works well.
Is something I did incorrectly?
Valve setting is something I need to do every 5k on my Yamaha Virago.
Problem is, as I mentioned one of valve seal come off, where other not. What I think this need to be replaced because seal was blow off (once I have start up engine) because was not attached anymore to mental ring I showed before (amazon picture).
#7
Mower Doctor 78006
Mower Doctor 78006
In all the years I have been around the L Head Briggs. I have never heard of the valves needing to be set. That's why I asked. Maybe one of the small engine experts can speak more on this matter.
Well,
- I have removed cylinder head. Put engine in top dead center (TDC).
- I open side side for valves entry.
- Measured space between end of valves and core support (I could not even enter 0.05 mm gauge meter). Then I have noticed that valves does not close properly.
- I grind off end valve, measuring every time if they OK (install, remove, repeat).
- Closed, fire up... works well.
Is something I did incorrectly?
Valve setting is something I need to do every 5k on my Yamaha Virago.
Problem is, as I mentioned one of valve seal come off, where other not. What I think this need to be replaced because seal was blow off (once I have start up engine) because was not attached anymore to mental ring I showed before (amazon picture).
#8
Fish
Fish
Yes, when an l-head overheats, the valve area warps away from the head, and the clearances becomes a problem.
I am having trouble wrapping my head around how "proximus" has adjusted his valves, kind of "Hinky"......
I am having trouble wrapping my head around how "proximus" has adjusted his valves, kind of "Hinky"......
#10
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Doing a valve job on a small engine has become a lost art. Back when small engines were commonly rebuilt, grinding and lapping in valves and seats were always done. The way proximus did it was one way of doing it. The only thing I would have done differently, is to recut the valve faces and seats, and lap the valves in before setting thevalveclearances. All my students had to know how to do it properly and it was part of their final test. Today the only time you need to gring a valve stem is when you are replacing the valve, or when you have to reseat a valve. To proximus; glad to hear that you were able to wade through the fishy posts and get the unit running.
#11
Fish
Fish
Like I said, when an engine overheats the valve area of the block will warp back and make the clearances closer, so grinding valve stems will be needed.
The block warping away also cocks the seats, so they don't seal properly, a correct valve job is the best repair.
To do a correct valve job, cutting the valves and seats is the correct way, and of course,
cutting the valves and seats, you need to grind the valve stems as well........
I use the Neway carbide cutting system.
Not many techs do it the way they should, they just slop on some valve paste and lap the heck out of them.
I was interested how you were removing and re-installing the springs and keepers, it is a pain to do it without valve tools,
what was your technique?
The block warping away also cocks the seats, so they don't seal properly, a correct valve job is the best repair.
To do a correct valve job, cutting the valves and seats is the correct way, and of course,
cutting the valves and seats, you need to grind the valve stems as well........
I use the Neway carbide cutting system.
Not many techs do it the way they should, they just slop on some valve paste and lap the heck out of them.
I was interested how you were removing and re-installing the springs and keepers, it is a pain to do it without valve tools,
what was your technique?
#12
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Removing and installing valve spring is not hard if you have a simple tool as this one sold by Stens. Cost is about $8.00. You can purchase two other styles (C-clamp and compression) at a much higher cost. Once you learn how to use this simple tool, job is very quick and easy.
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mNNIDEzuA0XsrM2Y8uK2NRw.jpg
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mNNIDEzuA0XsrM2Y8uK2NRw.jpg
#13
Fish
Fish
Yes, with the correct tool, it is an easy task....
Hence my question...
Hence my question...
#14
P
proximus26
I used old broken wood drill bit. I cut it in middle in order to fit valve and grind little down to fit between spring. Metal for drill bit is pretty hard so was very reliable. Here is example an http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-...id=1396040451&sr=8-1&keywords=Wood+Drill+Bits
P
proximus26
Yes, with the correct tool, it is an easy task....
Hence my question...
I used old broken wood drill bit. I cut it in middle in order to fit valve and grind little down to fit between spring. Metal for drill bit is pretty hard so was very reliable. Here is example an http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-...id=1396040451&sr=8-1&keywords=Wood+Drill+Bits
#15
P
proximus26
Rivets, yes I got unit running and it was running like a dream, had power, speed and cut like anything before. Well until I decided change oil. I have changed oil and I can`t start engine anymore. There is so much friction (resistance) when trying to start engine ( like oil pump is just resisting due to oil pressure) that is impossible to start engine using starting line.
Maybe this is problem: when I was changing oil I have used car oil engine extractor which works like vacuum. Now... maybe under vacuum some pump parts has shifted, broke or something has generally happened with engine.
I was checking valves seals again. i think they do play really any different role in engine designing (beside function of closing gap between valve and engine core in order to not allow engine oil get to engine head). This can`t (in my opinion) be reason that I can`t turn engine, start up.
Any one has idea what happen?
Thank you in advance.
P
proximus26
Doing a valve job on a small engine has become a lost art. Back when small engines were commonly rebuilt, grinding and lapping in valves and seats were always done. The way proximus did it was one way of doing it. The only thing I would have done differently, is to recut the valve faces and seats, and lap the valves in before setting thevalveclearances. All my students had to know how to do it properly and it was part of their final test. Today the only time you need to gring a valve stem is when you are replacing the valve, or when you have to reseat a valve. To proximus; glad to hear that you were able to wade through the fishy posts and get the unit running.
Rivets, yes I got unit running and it was running like a dream, had power, speed and cut like anything before. Well until I decided change oil. I have changed oil and I can`t start engine anymore. There is so much friction (resistance) when trying to start engine ( like oil pump is just resisting due to oil pressure) that is impossible to start engine using starting line.
Maybe this is problem: when I was changing oil I have used car oil engine extractor which works like vacuum. Now... maybe under vacuum some pump parts has shifted, broke or something has generally happened with engine.
I was checking valves seals again. i think they do play really any different role in engine designing (beside function of closing gap between valve and engine core in order to not allow engine oil get to engine head). This can`t (in my opinion) be reason that I can`t turn engine, start up.
Any one has idea what happen?
Thank you in advance.
#16
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Take the spark plug out and try turning the engine over. If it turns over easily, install the plug. If it starts I'll try to explain what happened.
#17
Fish
LOL. We will love to see this gem!!!!
Fish
Take the spark plug out and try turning the engine over. If it turns over easily, install the plug. If it starts I'll try to explain what happened.
LOL. We will love to see this gem!!!!
#18
Fish
Yeah, Fishy....
Fish
Doing a valve job on a small engine has become a lost art. Back when small engines were commonly rebuilt, grinding and lapping in valves and seats were always done. The way proximus did it was one way of doing it. The only thing I would have done differently, is to recut the valve faces and seats, and lap the valves in before setting thevalveclearances. All my students had to know how to do it properly and it was part of their final test. Today the only time you need to gring a valve stem is when you are replacing the valve, or when you have to reseat a valve. To proximus; glad to hear that you were able to wade through the fishy posts and get the unit running.
Yeah, Fishy....
#19
P
proximus26
This was first thing I have did... results were the same. What do you mean: If it starts I'll try to explain what happened?
P
proximus26
Take the spark plug out and try turning the engine over. If it turns over easily, install the plug. If it starts I'll try to explain what happened.
This was first thing I have did... results were the same. What do you mean: If it starts I'll try to explain what happened?
#20
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If after you removed the plug, spun the engine over and cleared the cylinder, then put the plug back in and it started, I had an explanation as to what went wrong. Seeing that it did not fix the problem, we have to go another direction. These are the steps I would try:
1. Remove the spark plug.
2. Tie the brake bail back so you know the flywheel brake is off.
3. Tip the mower on it's side, carb up, and wearing a glove try to turn the blade 360 degrees in both directions.
4. If you can turn the blade in both directions, we know that the engine is not locked up. There is no oil pump on this engine.
5. Set the mower back down and try turning it over with the starter rope, no plug.
6. If you can turn the engine by hand, but no with the starter rope, we know that we have a problem with the starter.
7. If you cannot turn the engine by hand, we will have to look internally and that will be another post.
I know that you could care less about me, but Mr. Fish if you have nothing constructive to add to the threads which I post on, I and the OP's would greatly appreciate it if you would keep quiet. I could care less if you want to make fun of me, you have to get to the back of the line, it's a long one. You are not helping fix the problem, just making it more difficult to solve.
1. Remove the spark plug.
2. Tie the brake bail back so you know the flywheel brake is off.
3. Tip the mower on it's side, carb up, and wearing a glove try to turn the blade 360 degrees in both directions.
4. If you can turn the blade in both directions, we know that the engine is not locked up. There is no oil pump on this engine.
5. Set the mower back down and try turning it over with the starter rope, no plug.
6. If you can turn the engine by hand, but no with the starter rope, we know that we have a problem with the starter.
7. If you cannot turn the engine by hand, we will have to look internally and that will be another post.
I know that you could care less about me, but Mr. Fish if you have nothing constructive to add to the threads which I post on, I and the OP's would greatly appreciate it if you would keep quiet. I could care less if you want to make fun of me, you have to get to the back of the line, it's a long one. You are not helping fix the problem, just making it more difficult to solve.
#21
Fish
Fish
Naw, a simple search of your responses paint a real clear picture of your abilities!!!!!
I tried to make peace with you, but you were not having any...
I tried to make peace with you, but you were not having any...
#22
Fish
Constructive???? A LLOOONGGG line???? So you trying to hump your "NAME?PERSONA?CREDENTIALS on this forum means that every one should bow out while you fudge about helping folks?
Fish
If after you removed the plug, spun the engine over and cleared the cylinder, then put the plug back in and it started, I had an explanation as to what went wrong. Seeing that it did not fix the problem, we have to go another direction. These are the steps I would try:
1. Remove the spark plug.
2. Tie the brake bail back so you know the flywheel brake is off.
3. Tip the mower on it's side, carb up, and wearing a glove try to turn the blade 360 degrees in both directions.
4. If you can turn the blade in both directions, we know that the engine is not locked up. There is no oil pump on this engine.
5. Set the mower back down and try turning it over with the starter rope, no plug.
6. If you can turn the engine by hand, but no with the starter rope, we know that we have a problem with the starter.
7. If you cannot turn the engine by hand, we will have to look internally and that will be another post.
I know that you could care less about me, but Mr. Fish if you have nothing constructive to add to the threads which I post on, I and the OP's would greatly appreciate it if you would keep quiet. I could care less if you want to make fun of me, you have to get to the back of the line, it's a long one. You are not helping fix the problem, just making it more difficult to solve.
Constructive???? A LLOOONGGG line???? So you trying to hump your "NAME?PERSONA?CREDENTIALS on this forum means that every one should bow out while you fudge about helping folks?
#23
Mower Doctor 78006
Mower Doctor 78006
Iam still having a hard time understanding the need to grind, resurface valves on a 6 year old mower. That engine at most has 200-300 hours on it. Iam almost certain the problem with the poor running will be found in replacing the carb diaphragms. I think grinding valves down and trying to mask the problem opened up a can of worms!! :confused2:
Pull dipstick lay mower on side dipstick down, carb up let all oil drain in pan. Tie safety bail open and rotate blade. I thing ether the carb flooded the crank case, or the oil was over filled.
Pull dipstick lay mower on side dipstick down, carb up let all oil drain in pan. Tie safety bail open and rotate blade. I thing ether the carb flooded the crank case, or the oil was over filled.
#24
Fish
Well you need to do a valve job, well when you need to.....
Fish
Iam still having a hard time understanding the need to grind, resurface valves on a 6 year old mower. That engine at most has 200-300 hours on it. Iam almost certain the problem with the poor running will be found in replacing the carb diaphragms. I think grinding valves down and trying to mask the problem opened up a can of worms!! :confused2:
Pull dipstick lay mower on side dipstick down, carb up let all oil drain in pan. Tie safety bail open and rotate blade. I thing ether the carb flooded the crank case, or the oil was over filled.
Well you need to do a valve job, well when you need to.....
#25
P
proximus26
Well,
I`m not expert but I would not agree and I do not want to offend you, Sir.
Engine needed valve adjustment. Both valves were spinning and were setting totally on the end of core engine. From what I see this is quite "week" alloy used to build engine or valves are made from butter. I agree with you regards hours.
I start engine BEFORE oil change. I can tell you that it run better then time I bought it.
I have basic of mechanics and engine build and understand way they working. I restored in past 33+ motorcycles... they are more complicated (no mechanically but regards tune up) then lawn mower.
I will remove pull starter and re-seat again. I have alredy done 360 flip.... bunch off oil leak out from exhaust and I was able spun engine using hands.
P
proximus26
Iam still having a hard time understanding the need to grind, resurface valves on a 6 year old mower. That engine at most has 200-300 hours on it. Iam almost certain the problem with the poor running will be found in replacing the carb diaphragms. I think grinding valves down and trying to mask the problem opened up a can of worms!! :confused2:
Pull dipstick lay mower on side dipstick down, carb up let all oil drain in pan. Tie safety bail open and rotate blade. I thing ether the carb flooded the crank case, or the oil was over filled.
Well,
I`m not expert but I would not agree and I do not want to offend you, Sir.
Engine needed valve adjustment. Both valves were spinning and were setting totally on the end of core engine. From what I see this is quite "week" alloy used to build engine or valves are made from butter. I agree with you regards hours.
I start engine BEFORE oil change. I can tell you that it run better then time I bought it.
I have basic of mechanics and engine build and understand way they working. I restored in past 33+ motorcycles... they are more complicated (no mechanically but regards tune up) then lawn mower.
I will remove pull starter and re-seat again. I have alredy done 360 flip.... bunch off oil leak out from exhaust and I was able spun engine using hands.
#26
Mower Doctor 78006
Mower Doctor 78006
Its your engine. If in your expertise it looked, and seemed like it needed a valve grind/resurface great.
I have fixed these from as new as yours, to 10 years or older with just as many hours.
If the over heating is the problem. I live in Texas and haven't received a mower for repairs, or a dead one being brought back to life that has ever needed a valve job on a L head briggs engine. Ether the mower was severely used, abused, or just plain mistreated. Ie oil not changed run to death in jungle tall grass, and put away. Sounds like something played a factor in the engine needing a valve job that early in life. Is the mower used commercially?
I have fixed these from as new as yours, to 10 years or older with just as many hours.
If the over heating is the problem. I live in Texas and haven't received a mower for repairs, or a dead one being brought back to life that has ever needed a valve job on a L head briggs engine. Ether the mower was severely used, abused, or just plain mistreated. Ie oil not changed run to death in jungle tall grass, and put away. Sounds like something played a factor in the engine needing a valve job that early in life. Is the mower used commercially?
Well,
I`m not expert but I would not agree and I do not want to offend you, Sir.
Engine needed valve adjustment. Both valves were spinning and were setting totally on the end of core engine. From what I see this is quite "week" alloy used to build engine or valves are made from butter. I agree with you regards hours.
I start engine BEFORE oil change. I can tell you that it run better then time I bought it.
I have basic of mechanics and engine build and understand way they working. I restored in past 33+ motorcycles... they are more complicated (no mechanically but regards tune up) then lawn mower.
I will remove pull starter and re-seat again. I have alredy done 360 flip.... bunch off oil leak out from exhaust and I was able spun engine using hands.
#27
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If you were able to rotate the engine by hand in both directions then I feel either the engine was stopping due to oil in the cylinder or there is a problem with the starter mechanism. Oil running out of the muffler concerns me. Sorry about being stuck between me and my enemy, he just wants to make me look stupid. We'll get this solved together. For what it's worth, I have seen valve adjustment done the way you described, you do what works for you and your situation. Have to go to work now, won't be back until this evening, will look for your post.
#28
Mower Doctor 78006
Mower Doctor 78006
The oil coming out the muffler is a clear indication that the crankcase was overfilled!! Ether by the oil, or the gas flooding it.
#29
Carscw
Carscw
OMG you all have took a easy fix and complicated the hell out of it.
Put your ego away and just help the guy get his mower going.
Put your ego away and just help the guy get his mower going.
#30
Fish
Fish
Well, rotating the engine while on it's side could suck a gulp of oil into the combustion area and hydro lock the engine with oil.
Also, I have had to adjust valves in the past under warranty, as they weren't correct from the factory.
Yes, the quality of the metals of the valves and springs has declined over the years. I remember doing a valve job on a late model Tecumseh, I could remove the valves and reinstall using just my fingers.
Also, I have had to adjust valves in the past under warranty, as they weren't correct from the factory.
Yes, the quality of the metals of the valves and springs has declined over the years. I remember doing a valve job on a late model Tecumseh, I could remove the valves and reinstall using just my fingers.
#31
P
proximus26
Mower Doctor 78006, Rivet and Mr. Fish, you all helped me but I still need your help. I have oil in the cylinder and this is m problem. Valve seal are gone (first one, because engine start smoking dark oil now second... how to replace valve seals. As I susspected this is problem.
BTW... I guess you are are tooooo old to fight.... make it right... I`m new one here but I think you act like 5 years old, so Mr. Fish... let`s call it as past.... You ALL are great and each of you bring value and expertize to this forum. I saw it in this post. Thank you!
Please help me to tell me how to change valve seals... what part number should I get? I also need upper valve which I think is intake valve.
P
proximus26
If you were able to rotate the engine by hand in both directions then I feel either the engine was stopping due to oil in the cylinder or there is a problem with the starter mechanism. Oil running out of the muffler concerns me. Sorry about being stuck between me and my enemy, he just wants to make me look stupid. We'll get this solved together. For what it's worth, I have seen valve adjustment done the way you described, you do what works for you and your situation. Have to go to work now, won't be back until this evening, will look for your post.
Mower Doctor 78006, Rivet and Mr. Fish, you all helped me but I still need your help. I have oil in the cylinder and this is m problem. Valve seal are gone (first one, because engine start smoking dark oil now second... how to replace valve seals. As I susspected this is problem.
BTW... I guess you are are tooooo old to fight.... make it right... I`m new one here but I think you act like 5 years old, so Mr. Fish... let`s call it as past.... You ALL are great and each of you bring value and expertize to this forum. I saw it in this post. Thank you!
Please help me to tell me how to change valve seals... what part number should I get? I also need upper valve which I think is intake valve.
#32
Carscw
Carscw
Google your engine numbers to get the parts you need.
Watch a YouTube video on how to do the repair.
There is no way in hell that the 3 of them will agree on how to repair your engine.
The 3 of them all know how to fix just about any small engine but their egos and dislike for each other get in the way.
I suggest you pick one of them and send them a message.
If your not sure who to pick you can ask me.
Watch a YouTube video on how to do the repair.
There is no way in hell that the 3 of them will agree on how to repair your engine.
The 3 of them all know how to fix just about any small engine but their egos and dislike for each other get in the way.
I suggest you pick one of them and send them a message.
If your not sure who to pick you can ask me.
#33
Mower Doctor 78006
Mower Doctor 78006
Here's the parts breakdown of your engine per your supplied model, date, and code. Just select the parts you are needing.
Parts and Diagrams for Briggs and Stratton 10T802-0547-B2
Parts and Diagrams for Briggs and Stratton 10T802-0547-B2
OK,
here is exact engine model: 10T802-0547-b2 code 07100554
#34
Fish
Fish
Yeah, to be honest, none of us has encountered the seal that you have on your hands, and our massive egos don't want to let us
post anything that would give ammo to the others....... The last poster put up a link giving the part number, which appears to
go into the block in the valve adjust area with the valve out. No need to replace the valve unless it is boogered up.....
Here is a link from another forum by other Briggs techs that haven't seen this either.....
Small Engine Technical Forum • View topic - Removing/Replacing Valve Stem Oil Seal
post anything that would give ammo to the others....... The last poster put up a link giving the part number, which appears to
go into the block in the valve adjust area with the valve out. No need to replace the valve unless it is boogered up.....
Here is a link from another forum by other Briggs techs that haven't seen this either.....
Small Engine Technical Forum • View topic - Removing/Replacing Valve Stem Oil Seal
#35
Fish
Not an easy fix, and not a small ego............
These forums have plenty of folks wanting "Free" help, so they won't have to pay anyone to fix their mower.....
So, they can wade through some rants from old pissed off guys!!!!!!!
A small price to pay!!!!!!
I tried going to a dentist and asked some questions, they were rude!!!!
Same with my car... I dropped by and asked some questions about my car, didn't get too far. if anyone wants some help here,
he should expect to trudge through some mud!!!!!!
Fish
OMG you all have took a easy fix and complicated the hell out of it.
Put your ego away and just help the guy get his mower going.
Not an easy fix, and not a small ego............
These forums have plenty of folks wanting "Free" help, so they won't have to pay anyone to fix their mower.....
So, they can wade through some rants from old pissed off guys!!!!!!!
A small price to pay!!!!!!
I tried going to a dentist and asked some questions, they were rude!!!!
Same with my car... I dropped by and asked some questions about my car, didn't get too far. if anyone wants some help here,
he should expect to trudge through some mud!!!!!!
#36
P
proximus26
Waiting on pats.
Now I will just find way to replace seal. Will let you how it went once done. I will take some pictures.
Thank you guys.
P
proximus26
Not an easy fix, and not a small ego............
These forums have plenty of folks wanting "Free" help, so they won't have to pay anyone to fix their mower.....
So, they can wade through some rants from old pissed off guys!!!!!!!
A small price to pay!!!!!!
I tried going to a dentist and asked some questions, they were rude!!!!
Same with my car... I dropped by and asked some questions about my car, didn't get too far. if anyone wants some help here,
he should expect to trudge through some mud!!!!!!
Waiting on pats.
Now I will just find way to replace seal. Will let you how it went once done. I will take some pictures.
Thank you guys.
#37
S
spetho2001@msn.com
S
spetho2001@msn.com
I have had two brand new mowers with Briggs engines with the carburetor mounted on top of the fuel tank that after a one season do the same as what you are saying. They are junk. You won't get it fixed. I have been told it is the diaphragm under the carburetor and I have been told it is the ethanol in the gas. What is a fact is that they do not have much of a carburetor. No bowl or needle and seat and more. I am trying a Troybilt and I did buy some straight gas (no ethanol)Hello all,
I have Bolen 158cc with B&S 10T800 series push lawn mower. Well I used it 6 year before I have noticed that it drop in power and start chocking.
I was sure all is OK (oil, gas,filter) so only things would be bad will be valve problem.
I was right, I have adjusted valves as per specification, put all back together and my engine want to fly. Started like a charm, no problem. Run for about 2-3 minutes during which I have check if all was OK.
Then I decided to change oil. I checked oil amount specification, I got 10w-40 oil and poor into engine. Prior that I have empty out old oil.
All, good. Decided to run baby again.... and I couldn`t turn it. I feel so strong resistance. I couldn`t start engine. Engine has high compression point where wont turn over.
I ask my self... what a heck. Let me check valves setting..., no all OK, springs OK. All is OK. Still can turn baby. Looks like oil pressure is building up and not allowing to engine in order to start.
I should mention that during intake valve removal on the valve I saw small o-ring with spring in side. i have check this part and is called Retainer-Valve. I assume that it was located on the same place as shown on the engine diagram.
So... engine started after adjustments. Engine is not working after oil change? I can turn engine with both hands but not with starter line?
Any idea what is wrong?
Thank you
#38
P
proximus26
P
proximus26
OK,
done. I have repaired this engine. Replaced:
diaphragm, valves (both bended from over heating) and oil seal on the valve. Why I know seal failed in first place... well engine does not smoke like crazy anymore.
There is no other way to remove oil seal like use sharp and thin tool or micro screw driver and in two hammer hit it was out. Valve need to be replaced because was bend.... well with next valve adjustment I would destroy seal again anyway if valve would not be replaced.
Now all works like new. No problem at all.
Regards gas... well I have CENEX gas station close by which do have none ethanol premium gas. I used for all my garden tools, motorcycle and my generation. SO far works great. If you do have gas with ethanol you can use some chemical to keep it extend it own life. Usually ethanol will evaporate in 3 months from you gas leaving a LOT of nasty residue on all elements in the engine. I have learn my lesson after few motorcycle carburetor cleaning jobs.
Questions? Let me know.?
done. I have repaired this engine. Replaced:
diaphragm, valves (both bended from over heating) and oil seal on the valve. Why I know seal failed in first place... well engine does not smoke like crazy anymore.
There is no other way to remove oil seal like use sharp and thin tool or micro screw driver and in two hammer hit it was out. Valve need to be replaced because was bend.... well with next valve adjustment I would destroy seal again anyway if valve would not be replaced.
Now all works like new. No problem at all.
Regards gas... well I have CENEX gas station close by which do have none ethanol premium gas. I used for all my garden tools, motorcycle and my generation. SO far works great. If you do have gas with ethanol you can use some chemical to keep it extend it own life. Usually ethanol will evaporate in 3 months from you gas leaving a LOT of nasty residue on all elements in the engine. I have learn my lesson after few motorcycle carburetor cleaning jobs.
Questions? Let me know.?