Strange case of evil

[Fish]

Like I said, when an engine overheats the valve area of the block will warp back and make the clearances closer, so grinding valve stems will be needed.

The block warping away also cocks the seats, so they don't seal properly, a correct valve job is the best repair.



To do a correct valve job, cutting the valves and seats is the correct way, and of course,
cutting the valves and seats, you need to grind the valve stems as well........

I use the Neway carbide cutting system.

Not many techs do it the way they should, they just slop on some valve paste and lap the heck out of them.

I was interested how you were removing and re-installing the springs and keepers, it is a pain to do it without valve tools,
what was your technique?

 

[Rivets]

Removing and installing valve spring is not hard if you have a simple tool as this one sold by Stens. Cost is about $8.00. You can purchase two other styles (C-clamp and compression) at a much higher cost. Once you learn how to use this simple tool, job is very quick and easy.

http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mNNIDEzuA0XsrM2Y8uK2NRw.jpg

 

[Fish]

Yes, with the correct tool, it is an easy task....

Hence my question...

 

[proximus26]

Yes, with the correct tool, it is an easy task....

Hence my question...

I used old broken wood drill bit. I cut it in middle in order to fit valve and grind little down to fit between spring. Metal for drill bit is pretty hard so was very reliable. Here is example an http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-...id=1396040451&sr=8-1&keywords=Wood+Drill+Bits

 

[proximus26]

Doing a valve job on a small engine has become a lost art. Back when small engines were commonly rebuilt, grinding and lapping in valves and seats were always done. The way proximus did it was one way of doing it. The only thing I would have done differently, is to recut the valve faces and seats, and lap the valves in before setting thevalveclearances. All my students had to know how to do it properly and it was part of their final test. Today the only time you need to gring a valve stem is when you are replacing the valve, or when you have to reseat a valve. To proximus; glad to hear that you were able to wade through the fishy posts and get the unit running.

Rivets, yes I got unit running and it was running like a dream, had power, speed and cut like anything before. Well until I decided change oil. I have changed oil and I can`t start engine anymore. There is so much friction (resistance) when trying to start engine ( like oil pump is just resisting due to oil pressure) that is impossible to start engine using starting line.

Maybe this is problem: when I was changing oil I have used car oil engine extractor which works like vacuum. Now... maybe under vacuum some pump parts has shifted, broke or something has generally happened with engine.

I was checking valves seals again. i think they do play really any different role in engine designing (beside function of closing gap between valve and engine core in order to not allow engine oil get to engine head). This can`t (in my opinion) be reason that I can`t turn engine, start up.

Any one has idea what happen?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Rivets]

Take the spark plug out and try turning the engine over. If it turns over easily, install the plug. If it starts I'll try to explain what happened.

 

[Fish]

Take the spark plug out and try turning the engine over. If it turns over easily, install the plug. If it starts I'll try to explain what happened.

LOL. We will love to see this gem!!!!

 

[Fish]

Doing a valve job on a small engine has become a lost art. Back when small engines were commonly rebuilt, grinding and lapping in valves and seats were always done. The way proximus did it was one way of doing it. The only thing I would have done differently, is to recut the valve faces and seats, and lap the valves in before setting thevalveclearances. All my students had to know how to do it properly and it was part of their final test. Today the only time you need to gring a valve stem is when you are replacing the valve, or when you have to reseat a valve. To proximus; glad to hear that you were able to wade through the fishy posts and get the unit running.

Yeah, Fishy....

 

[proximus26]

Take the spark plug out and try turning the engine over. If it turns over easily, install the plug. If it starts I'll try to explain what happened.

This was first thing I have did... results were the same. What do you mean: If it starts I'll try to explain what happened?

 

[Rivets]

If after you removed the plug, spun the engine over and cleared the cylinder, then put the plug back in and it started, I had an explanation as to what went wrong. Seeing that it did not fix the problem, we have to go another direction. These are the steps I would try:
1. Remove the spark plug.
2. Tie the brake bail back so you know the flywheel brake is off.
3. Tip the mower on it's side, carb up, and wearing a glove try to turn the blade 360 degrees in both directions.
4. If you can turn the blade in both directions, we know that the engine is not locked up. There is no oil pump on this engine.
5. Set the mower back down and try turning it over with the starter rope, no plug.
6. If you can turn the engine by hand, but no with the starter rope, we know that we have a problem with the starter.
7. If you cannot turn the engine by hand, we will have to look internally and that will be another post.

I know that you could care less about me, but Mr. Fish if you have nothing constructive to add to the threads which I post on, I and the OP's would greatly appreciate it if you would keep quiet. I could care less if you want to make fun of me, you have to get to the back of the line, it's a long one. You are not helping fix the problem, just making it more difficult to solve.