Strange case of evil

[Fish]

Naw, a simple search of your responses paint a real clear picture of your abilities!!!!!

I tried to make peace with you, but you were not having any...

 

[Fish]

If after you removed the plug, spun the engine over and cleared the cylinder, then put the plug back in and it started, I had an explanation as to what went wrong. Seeing that it did not fix the problem, we have to go another direction. These are the steps I would try:
1. Remove the spark plug.
2. Tie the brake bail back so you know the flywheel brake is off.
3. Tip the mower on it's side, carb up, and wearing a glove try to turn the blade 360 degrees in both directions.
4. If you can turn the blade in both directions, we know that the engine is not locked up. There is no oil pump on this engine.
5. Set the mower back down and try turning it over with the starter rope, no plug.
6. If you can turn the engine by hand, but no with the starter rope, we know that we have a problem with the starter.
7. If you cannot turn the engine by hand, we will have to look internally and that will be another post.

I know that you could care less about me, but Mr. Fish if you have nothing constructive to add to the threads which I post on, I and the OP's would greatly appreciate it if you would keep quiet. I could care less if you want to make fun of me, you have to get to the back of the line, it's a long one. You are not helping fix the problem, just making it more difficult to solve.

Constructive???? A LLOOONGGG line???? So you trying to hump your "NAME?PERSONA?CREDENTIALS on this forum means that every one should bow out while you fudge about helping folks?

 

[Mower Doctor 78006]

Iam still having a hard time understanding the need to grind, resurface valves on a 6 year old mower. That engine at most has 200-300 hours on it. Iam almost certain the problem with the poor running will be found in replacing the carb diaphragms. I think grinding valves down and trying to mask the problem opened up a can of worms!! :confused2:

Pull dipstick lay mower on side dipstick down, carb up let all oil drain in pan. Tie safety bail open and rotate blade. I thing ether the carb flooded the crank case, or the oil was over filled.

 

[Fish]

Iam still having a hard time understanding the need to grind, resurface valves on a 6 year old mower. That engine at most has 200-300 hours on it. Iam almost certain the problem with the poor running will be found in replacing the carb diaphragms. I think grinding valves down and trying to mask the problem opened up a can of worms!! :confused2:

Pull dipstick lay mower on side dipstick down, carb up let all oil drain in pan. Tie safety bail open and rotate blade. I thing ether the carb flooded the crank case, or the oil was over filled.

Well you need to do a valve job, well when you need to.....

 

[proximus26]

Iam still having a hard time understanding the need to grind, resurface valves on a 6 year old mower. That engine at most has 200-300 hours on it. Iam almost certain the problem with the poor running will be found in replacing the carb diaphragms. I think grinding valves down and trying to mask the problem opened up a can of worms!! :confused2:

Pull dipstick lay mower on side dipstick down, carb up let all oil drain in pan. Tie safety bail open and rotate blade. I thing ether the carb flooded the crank case, or the oil was over filled.

Well,

I`m not expert but I would not agree and I do not want to offend you, Sir.

Engine needed valve adjustment. Both valves were spinning and were setting totally on the end of core engine. From what I see this is quite "week" alloy used to build engine or valves are made from butter. I agree with you regards hours.

I start engine BEFORE oil change. I can tell you that it run better then time I bought it.

I have basic of mechanics and engine build and understand way they working. I restored in past 33+ motorcycles... they are more complicated (no mechanically but regards tune up) then lawn mower.

I will remove pull starter and re-seat again. I have alredy done 360 flip.... bunch off oil leak out from exhaust and I was able spun engine using hands.

 

[Mower Doctor 78006]

Its your engine. If in your expertise it looked, and seemed like it needed a valve grind/resurface great.
I have fixed these from as new as yours, to 10 years or older with just as many hours.
If the over heating is the problem. I live in Texas and haven't received a mower for repairs, or a dead one being brought back to life that has ever needed a valve job on a L head briggs engine. Ether the mower was severely used, abused, or just plain mistreated. Ie oil not changed run to death in jungle tall grass, and put away. Sounds like something played a factor in the engine needing a valve job that early in life. Is the mower used commercially?

Well,

I`m not expert but I would not agree and I do not want to offend you, Sir.

Engine needed valve adjustment. Both valves were spinning and were setting totally on the end of core engine. From what I see this is quite "week" alloy used to build engine or valves are made from butter. I agree with you regards hours.

I start engine BEFORE oil change. I can tell you that it run better then time I bought it.

I have basic of mechanics and engine build and understand way they working. I restored in past 33+ motorcycles... they are more complicated (no mechanically but regards tune up) then lawn mower.

I will remove pull starter and re-seat again. I have alredy done 360 flip.... bunch off oil leak out from exhaust and I was able spun engine using hands.

 

[Rivets]

If you were able to rotate the engine by hand in both directions then I feel either the engine was stopping due to oil in the cylinder or there is a problem with the starter mechanism. Oil running out of the muffler concerns me. Sorry about being stuck between me and my enemy, he just wants to make me look stupid. We'll get this solved together. For what it's worth, I have seen valve adjustment done the way you described, you do what works for you and your situation. Have to go to work now, won't be back until this evening, will look for your post.

 

[Mower Doctor 78006]

The oil coming out the muffler is a clear indication that the crankcase was overfilled!! Ether by the oil, or the gas flooding it.

 

[Carscw]

OMG you all have took a easy fix and complicated the hell out of it.
Put your ego away and just help the guy get his mower going.

 

[Fish]

Well, rotating the engine while on it's side could suck a gulp of oil into the combustion area and hydro lock the engine with oil.

Also, I have had to adjust valves in the past under warranty, as they weren't correct from the factory.

Yes, the quality of the metals of the valves and springs has declined over the years. I remember doing a valve job on a late model Tecumseh, I could remove the valves and reinstall using just my fingers.