SOLVED: NOT INTERESTED IN WARRANTY ADVISE-27hp 49T877 V-twin rod bearing oil

[bertsmobile1]

At this point, if it's a newish engine, I'd push for a whole new engine. Screw you having to fix their mistake. Get on the phone and send them a video of the rotating crank.....

Please read the whole f'ing thread before posting a reply
It is not a bloody new engine it is a job lot of crap engines bought at auction as a pallet of stuffed engines for spares .
So no NOT NEW

 

[mmoffitt]

WTF! (Womens Tennis Federation)

 

[mcspeed]

@BurntFingers, keep us posted on the drilling. IMO seems like an easy fix providing the longitudinal oil passage is there. If it isn’t, will still be easy but not a fix LOL.

 

[Northshoredoug]

Please read the whole f'ing thread before posting a reply
It is not a bloody new engine it is a job lot of crap engines bought at auction as a pallet of stuffed engines for spares .
So no NOT NEW

Unfortunately some people can't stay on topic!
The topic is ROD BEARING OILING on a 49xxxx series, I don't know why people

@BurntFingers, keep us posted on the drilling. IMO seems like an easy fix providing the longitudinal oil passage is there. If it isn’t, will still be easy but not a fix LOL.

That crank is on the shelf for the time being but I'll definitely drill that oil passage..
the motors reassembled with a good crank and rods and already put into service.

 

[Cajun power]

couple of thoughts.

considering the two crank oil channels were not drilled, there is a non zero chance that if you did a DIY drill out or water jet the crank will not be balanced...no? I've never done the machining myself, but it would appear that removing that much material in two directions on the same "plane" would necessitate some kind of crank balancing work afterwards, no? just intuitively, that looks like at least about 2 ounces of metal that would be removed if you did the drill out. two ounces is probably going to cause problems with bearing at 3600 rpm..I would imagine. I dunno...not a machinist...but it would seem there is more to this job than just drilling it out.

also this: there does appear to be some crank wear likely due to lack of lubrication (not lube channels).that dull gray streak looks like a red flag to me...I'm not aware of how this crank is built or how one would relap even if that is possible...

 

[StarTech]

Just easier to accept that this happen during the crankshaft and somehow made it pass QA inspection. As op said he just installed a good crankshaft so the engine in back operation. A DIY type repair is going possibly throw the crankshaft out balance but it may be already out balance from the lack of the cross drill hole., just depends what got done at the factory.

None of us has the equipment to do this properly other than the crankshaft factory or a machine shop that does crankshaft regrinds.

Sometimes it costs less to just to replace the item. Custom work is expensive. Otherwords just bite the bullet and go on.

Its like the customer yesterday that was insisting on his vertical Himore pressure pump to be rebuilt. Well my cost on the needed parts were more than his cost for a complete new pump that was an actual upgrade to what currently had. After pointed this out he opted for the new pump.

It is the first I have seen check valves melted in one. Still thinking on what might had caused this. I do know one complaint was the unloader was working as it kills the engine when he releases the wand trigger. I thinking that the pump just over heated itself.

 

[biggertv]

Drillin a Crankshaft might be a little tougher than it looks

It will piss you off how Soft they are. I once installed a Roll Pin in place of a worn out keyway...Thru the Flywheel. Cheap Harbor Freight drill bit went through that Crank like Butter. For the Oil Passage, simply dremel a small area enough to drill the correct angle. With Oil in the passage it may be less Unbalanced and as Taryl says and we all know...It ain't the Space Sh....

 

[TobyU]

Personally I wouldn't spend the money for a new crank and I would just drill it and chamfer the hole a little bit.
I don't think it's going to make much difference on the vibrations. You really think they take too much concern or time to balance these cranks on any really high-end, recently calibrated machine?? To these things are low performance little turds and that's how they get treated by the manufacturers.

You could possibly check with a couple of local machine shops to see if they can mount such a small crank in their engine balancing machine just to check the balance because I would think you'd be able to get someone to balance it for 20 or 30 bucks. Heck, let them drill the hole out too.

The rest of the crank doesn't look anywhere near damaged like they get when they run low on oil and snap a rod so that might benefit from mild polish or buffing but that looks to be about it.

 

[jbugj]

Keep in mind that drilling may throw everything out of balance, and might have a lot of vibration. I would have to assume that even small engine cranks are balanced when manufactured, and if so, would have been balanced with all the mass of the hole that should have been drilled. Drilling it out is the option, but be aware of likely vibration. (edit - was posted in another comment also)

 

[SamB]

Just easier to accept that this happen during the crankshaft and somehow made it pass QA inspection. As op said he just installed a good crankshaft so the engine in back operation. A DIY type repair is going possibly throw the crankshaft out balance but it may be already out balance from the lack of the cross drill hole., just depends what got done at the factory.

None of us has the equipment to do this properly other than the crankshaft factory or a machine shop that does crankshaft regrinds.

Sometimes it costs less to just to replace the item. Custom work is expensive. Otherwords just bite the bullet and go on.

Its like the customer yesterday that was insisting on his vertical Himore pressure pump to be rebuilt. Well my cost on the needed parts were more than his cost for a complete new pump that was an actual upgrade to what currently had. After pointed this out he opted for the new pump.

It is the first I have seen check valves melted in one. Still thinking on what might had caused this. I do know one complaint was the unloader was working as it kills the engine when he releases the wand trigger. I thinking that the pump just over heated itself.

IMHO, another point to consider is that the engine this crank came out of is back in service with a replacement crank.
Since there is no engine to put this crank into, what's the point of wasting any time or effort on it.