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What kind of tricks and tips do you have that you'd like to share with fellow LMF members?

Just one of the upgrades I do when I'm changing out spindles is install stainless nuts and bolts when I put the new one in. For $3.00 or so, it can save an afternoon of fun for the next person who gets to drill out the broken bolt. A liberal application of Never-Seize precedes reassembly.:smile:

Do not keep your gas for longer than 6 weeks if it has ethanol in it. You can get fuel stabilizers but make sure they are formulated to work with ethanol, not like the old blends that will not do any good. If your lawnmower gas gets to be too old, put it in your car unless it has an oil mixture with it. The fuel stabilizers we use are engine medic and PriG fuel treatment.

Always have a can of "Fluid Film" on hand.

Sammy the Red said:

Always have a can of "Fluid Film" on hand.

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Sammy, what's "Fluid Film"?:ashamed:I've seen a ton of different stuff over the years, and I haven't heard of it, yet.

I'll throw another one in. If you know that you are going to get hopelessly greasy when you dive into a project, prelube yourself with hand cleaner.:licking:It helps reduce how much grease you'll have to scrub off after you get things torn apart.:wink:

Remove the plug wire before you remove the blade.

Mower manic said:

Remove the plug wire before you remove the blade.

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So simple, but SO true!

benski said:

Sammy, what's "Fluid Film"?:ashamed:I've seen a ton of different stuff over the years, and I haven't heard of it, yet.

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It really is a good product for long lasting protection and lubing.
If you can't find it at your local auto supplier, try a John Deere dealer.

benski said:

So simple, but SO true!

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How do you remove the plug wire when the engine is a diesel? :laughing:

JDgreen said:

How do you remove the plug wire when the engine is a diesel? :laughing:

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If you really want to remove a plug wire on your diesel, use a sharp knife and cut any wires directly adjacent to the fuel injector. There is no need to re connect these wires after you replace the blade or blades, your machine will run fine as log as the temperature is over 40F.
Good luck:tractor:

JDgreen said:

How do you remove the plug wire when the engine is a diesel? :laughing:

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If you need to ask you are nott as smart as you think you are.:laughing::laughing:

benski said:

I'll throw another one in. If you know that you are going to get hopelessly greasy when you dive into a project, prelube yourself with hand cleaner.:licking:It helps reduce how much grease you'll have to scrub off after you get things torn apart.:wink:

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If the project is really dirty, I put on latex glove to keep the hands as clean as possible.:thumbsup:

I'll throw in one. To get the clutch off of a chain saw instead of using rope packed in the cylinder which I was told was a bad idea. Use a 3/8 drive impact wrench with the appropriate socket. Works like a charm without holding the piston steady.

Edwards Saw Service in Glen Mills PA

Edwards saw service said:

I'll throw in one. To get the clutch off of a chain saw instead of using rope packed in the cylinder which I was told was a bad idea. Use a 3/8 drive impact wrench with the appropriate socket. Works like a charm without holding the piston steady.

Edwards Saw Service in Glen Mills PA

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There are doubtless a lot of members here who don't have an air compressor or impact wrench. BTW, in over 20 years of owning four different chain saws, I have never had to remove a clutch.

JDgreen said:

There are doubtless a lot of members here who don't have an air compressor or impact wrench. BTW, in over 20 years of owning four different chain saws, I have never had to remove a clutch.

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Well professionally speaking in a shop environment air compressors and impact wrenches are necessities. And many times on professional chainsaws I had to remove a clutch due to the teeth on the sprocket wearing out.

Edwards Saw Service in Glen Mills PA

bakerg said:

If the project is really dirty, I put on latex glove to keep the hands as clean as possible.:thumbsup:

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Yep, that's a good hint as well.:thumbsup: Most of the stuff here on LMF is small enough that one really doesn't end up up to one's elbows or shoulders. I've done some stuff on marine diesels that was really atrociously dirty, and thought I'd pass that hand cleaner hint along.:licking::biggrin:

Thin metal can be cut with a hacksaw if you install two blades into the frame with one backwards (NOT UPSIDEDOWN) The opposing teeth will act like a file--slow, but has worked many times for me.
Of course, in most cases, metal snips, nibblers, and abrasive blades are used for this, but some special circumstances call for this procedure.:thumbsup:
The correct blade, for cutting any thickness of metal, is to have at least two teeth in contact with the material during cut. Since I have never seen a hacksaw blade with that many teeth, this is as close as you can get.

benski said:

Yep, that's a good hint as well.:thumbsup: Most of the stuff here on LMF is small enough that one really doesn't end up up to one's elbows or shoulders. I've done some stuff on marine diesels that was really atrociously dirty, and thought I'd pass that hand cleaner hint along.:licking::biggrin:

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If you are getting dirty up to your shoulders, you could use what I seen a vet put on when he was checking one of our cows years ago.:wink: The glove he put on went up to his shoulder and e shoved his whole arm up the cows butt.:confused2::laughing::laughing:

bakerg said:

If you are getting dirty up to your shoulders, you could use what I seen a vet put on when he was checking one of our cows years ago.:wink: The glove he put on went up to his shoulder and e shoved his whole arm up the cows butt.:confused2::laughing::laughing:

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I worked 3 summers at a commercial fishing camp in AK as a teenager. The fisherman was also a vet, and I got to see a bunch of things, uh, first hand, that have stayed with me 40 years later..

Giles said:

Thin metal can be cut with a hacksaw if you install two blades into the frame with one backwards (NOT UPSIDEDOWN) The opposing teeth will act like a file--slow, but has worked many times for me.
Of course, in most cases, metal snips, nibblers, and abrasive blades are used for this, but some special circumstances call for this procedure.:thumbsup:
The correct blade, for cutting any thickness of metal, is to have at least two teeth in contact with the material during cut. Since I have never seen a hacksaw blade with that many teeth, this is as close as you can get.

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That's something I've never thought of, but I'll bet it beats a single bladed approach.!:thumbsup:

One more. If you've custom-drilled a fastener to put safety wire, cotter pin:frown:, or a hitch pin through, mark the orientation of the holes with a file, hacksaw or grinder on the head of the fastener. This will give you at least a place to start when you're putting whatever keeper through the hole. Also, chamfer the hole slightly at both ends to ease starting the fastener.

I'll throw another one on the pile. If you are putting a bolt into a hole that you can't reach by hand and using a socket and extension and the fastener keeps falling out, try this; sometimes a dab of heavy grease will keep a fastener from falling out of a socket, and if that doesn't do the trick I've taken a strip of some notecard paper and wedged the nut or bolt into the socket. All this in the abscence of a magnetic insert. Of course, a magnetic insert isn't going to help you much if you're dealing with a non-ferrous fastener..:wink::biggrin:

Hey this ones pretty old but if you run out of antisieze you can substitute liquid antacid on threads, it works just as well.

jamesslcx said:

Hey this ones pretty old but if you run out of antisieze you can substitute liquid antacid on threads, it works just as well.

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Wow! And here I thought I was the only one who kept that handy in the shop!:biggrin: Of course it's usually the mower that prompts me to use it for myself, instead of using it on the mower..:wink: Great tip.
One mower, uh, more.:ashamed::smile:: If you've got an adjusting bolt somewhere on your equipment that is prone to rusting up badly, you might trade it for a stainless one. Failing that, I'll take either some anti seize or grease, pack the exposed threads, and then slip one of those plastic bolt protectors over it that are available at the hardware store. They come in different diameters, and they're cheap. A piece of old fuel hose will work sometimes for the smaller bolts, too.

When you have a pair of latex or nitril gloves on for a while and your hands are sweaty - it is hard to get them off sometimes - I put an air nozzle in around the cuff and the air expands the glove all the way to finger tips making it easy to get them off (without turning them inside out) . :thumbsup:

bakerg said:

If the project is really dirty, I put on latex glove to keep the hands as clean as possible.:thumbsup:

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Great tips guys! benski I am under so much stress lately I think I'll get my antacid by the case! Hey I have always heard that if you had to install a part that was a very tight fit you could pop it in the freezer for a few hours it would expand and then you could slide it right on?!???

You may be right BKBrown, although when I was a tech a "few" years ago at the local Pontiac- Olds dealership we had to replace a lot of the fiber timing gears on the 2.5 liter GM four cyls. because of noise and we always froze them so they would just slide on easily. Back then I knew a lot of tricks to save time but now rigor mortis of the brain has set in and my memory aint what it used to be.:laughing:

Freezing shrinks parts that go inside another part and heat (think kitchen oven at 350-400 and wear gloves) expands parts that go over another part.

Personally, since I have an air compressor and an impact wrench I prefer to use it for many disassembly jobs if the parts have been together for awhile. Just saves effort and reduces the chances of rounding off the heads. Clean before reaasembly, add lube/antiseize as dictated and use hand tools to tighten. I've used the impact wrench to remove a vacuum cleaner impeller nut and a well pump impeller nut rather than try to jam/lock the motor shaft.

Grass ala Mowed said:

Freezing shrinks parts that go inside another part and heat (think kitchen oven at 350-400 and wear gloves) expands parts that go over another part.

Personally, since I have an air compressor and an impact wrench I prefer to use it for many disassembly jobs if the parts have been together for awhile. Just saves effort and reduces the chances of rounding off the heads. Clean before reaasembly, add lube/antiseize as dictated and use hand tools to tighten. I've used the impact wrench to remove a vacuum cleaner impeller nut and a well pump impeller nut rather than try to jam/lock the motor shaft.

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An impact wrench is almost cheating! I LOVE 'em.:biggrin: Sometimes if I've got a stubborn fastener I'll actually try tightening before loosening...anything to get those molecules to break loose. Heat, of course, can help sometimes and places too.:thumbsup:

A welding tip cleaner set is great for cleaing out the small passages in carb jets and other areas in carb even after they are soaked, there is about 15 different sizes and they are stiff enough that you don't have a problem with them bending , Just bought a new on today at lowes for $5 after 15-20 use on the old one,

Duffer72 said:

A welding tip cleaner set is great for cleaing out the small passages in carb jets and other areas in carb even after they are soaked, there is about 15 different sizes and they are stiff enough that you don't have a problem with them bending , Just bought a new on today at lowes for $5 after 15-20 use on the old one,

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Another great cleaning, uh, tip!:ashamed::biggrin:Thanks!

Another --simple, common sence tip that many already know. Sometimes you don't have a tap drill chart or a large assortment of drill bits. To determine the "tap drill" size for any hole to be tapped--simply find a nut the same size and find a drill bit that will go through the nut with the least amount of clearance:thumbsup:
This is especially useful for small screws:thumbsup:

If you're rebuilding a carb or other piece that has many small parts to it, I'll usually scrunch up a shop rag or two when I start taking it apart. The folds in the shop rag, laying on the bench, do a good job of keeping small parts from rolling off, never to be seen again.:wink:

I had never heard of Fluid Film before either but after a few Google searches and some reading up on it, sounds like really great stuff. Thanks Sam.

When I''m out buying or getting old mowers for fixing up, one of the first places I'll check is the condition of the engine, (if it has one) I'll see if I can manually turn it, and feel for compression. If it has none , that's one thing, if it turns smoothly and then fetches up hard inside I'll spin it the other way. If it hits hard again, it's usually an indication of a thrown rod, which brings my offer WAY down. A seized engine can usually be loosened up with a little bit of ATF, PB Blaster and Seafoam, let it sit, and then a breaker bar with a 6 point socket on the crankshaft nut. I recommend against using an impact wrench to do this task. Please don't ask how I came to discover this...:ashamed::frown::biggrin:

benski said:

A seized engine can usually be loosened up with a little bit of ATF, PB Blaster and Seafoam, let it sit, and then a breaker bar with a 6 point socket on the crankshaft nut. I recommend against using an impact wrench to do this task.

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Interesting.. Sounds pretty tedious. How on earth did you come to discovering this?? :wink:

Benski thanks for the tips!

JimmyTheGlove said:

Interesting.. Sounds pretty tedious. How on earth did you come to discovering this?? :wink:

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Um, by having an 1-1/8th" nut with a crankshaft stub sticking out of the impact socket on my 1/2" drive impact wrench, maybe?:ashamed::frown::biggrin:

Tip for removing rusted parts. Mix equal parts ATF and acetone in a spray bottle. Better than any product you get at the hardware. I use this when working on old tractors that have sat in the weather for many years.

woodfar said:

Tip for removing rusted parts. Mix equal parts ATF and acetone in a spray bottle. Better than any product you get at the hardware. I use this when working on old tractors that have sat in the weather for many years.

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I read this tip earlier elsewhere here in the forums. It works like a darn!:biggrin:

Another one. If you are painting something like an engine block, or some other piece that you don't want to get paint on machined surfaces, take a thin film of grease and apply it to those area that you don't want the paint to adhere to. Paint your project, let it all dry very well, and then take a rag with acetone, brake cleaner, or your poison of choice and clean the grease and overspray off. Sometimes this is faster, easier, or works better than traditional blue masking tape.

One uh "mower", I mean more.:ashamed::biggrin:If the time has come to change out the original 19XX's vintage fuel hose in your lawn chariot, and the fuel line is routed under the vehicle's frame, you might give this a shot.
1. Disconnect your hose and drain as much gas out as practical.
2. Get the correct size hose barb for your hose; typically 1/4".
3. Push the old hose onto the new hose, using the hose bar to attach the two. Leave off any hose clamps.
4. Use the old hose to route the new hose by pulling it through. Sometimes changing direction, as in route from the tank to the carb or vice versa will work better, but I've had good luck 3 out of 3 times I've done it on my equipment. You may even want to take a little silicone spray to lube things up.

I used to use Vasoline . Great way to paint clean and stops over spray

With all the junk I try to keep running, sometimes I don't remember how much oil a machine will take for a change. I'll use a pirated Pyrex measuring cup to fill things up, and then make a label or write on a cowling with permanent magic marker how many ounces of oil the machine takes. Saves a bunch of time on the next oil change. Certainly not rocket science here.:ashamed::biggrin:

Aluminum foil is great for covering areas that you dont want paint on, especially things like wiring looms and other odd shaped areas. Watch out close to batteries, etc.:biggrin::ashamed:

benski you are just a mountain of information aint you?! Thanx for the tips!

Starting fluid is harsh on small engines especially two cycle because the chemicals in ether or starting fluid dry out the piston and cylinder which can wreck havoc over a long period of time. So to diagnose a machine instead of using starting fluid take gas mixed with two stroke oil and put it in a cheap spray bottle like a windex bottle. Then you've got your "starting fluid".

Edwards Saw Service in Glen Mills PA

I don't know if this works first hand, but the mechanics sweared by it at a motorcycle shop I worked at, so... Try WD40 as a substitute for starting fluid.

Mini Motors said:

I don't know if this works first hand, but the mechanics sweared by it at a motorcycle shop I worked at, so... Try WD40 as a substitute for starting fluid.

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Yep... WD40 works well as starting fluid... but not as sure as ether... :smile:KennyV

Yes WD40 works great on 2 cycle for starting fluid, I just use a reg spray can with the tube.

I never use starting fluid on 4 cycles I have seen a few snowblowers have major damage from it when its cold, I only use carb cleaner for 4 strokes.

Edwards saw service said:

I'll throw in one. To get the clutch off of a chain saw instead of using rope packed in the cylinder which I was told was a bad idea. Use a 3/8 drive impact wrench with the appropriate socket. Works like a charm without holding the piston steady.

Edwards Saw Service in Glen Mills PA

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Chain saw clutches are left hand thread. Removing the recoll starter assembly is highly recommended before attempting to remove a chainsaw clutch as you can break it and/or the flywheel should you think that the clutch is right hand thread and attempt to remove it with the impact wrench turning the wrong direction. Almost all chainsaw clutches require a special tool to remove them, there are many different types and sizes.
Small chainsaws that have an integral clutch and sprocket don't last very long and a worn one will ruin a new chain in a short time in addition to increased difficulty adjusting the chain tension. I replace the clutches on my small Husqvarnas several time a year. My larger saws have a replacable chain sprocket but replacement on some still requires clutch removal depending on the type of clutch installed.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing:

Regarding ether: I'm not a big fan of it for starting up gasoline engines if I can avoid it. It has a tendency to explode rather than burn, and nasty things can happen to all the hapless stuff exposed to that. My personal favorite is some kind of squirt can or bottle with raw gas or mixed gas. What I'll do on a diesel for starting fluid is to spray a little ether on a rag, and then hold the rag up on the air intake while cranking. This seems to be easier on things than putting a big slug of stuff down the hatch and then turning it over.:biggrin:

I'll get out my trusty label-making machine or a permanent magic marker and put the belt(s) width and length where I can see it. If the belt gets thoroughly destroyed in some mishap, it's a lot easier than taking a carcass into the auto parts store 3 or 4 times for the right one.:wink:

If you're having trouble keeping a belt where it should be until you get everything in place, take a pair of locking pliers (aka Vise-Grips) and hold your belt in place that way. Not too tight, just enough to keep things in place.:smile:

I use Bel-Ray foam filter oil for my foam pre filters , works better than anything I have ever used. My cousan thats a dirt bike racer gave me a parcial bottle , been using it ever since.

Edwards saw service said:

Starting fluid is harsh on small engines especially two cycle because the chemicals in ether or starting fluid dry out the piston and cylinder which can wreck havoc over a long period of time. So to diagnose a machine instead of using starting fluid take gas mixed with two stroke oil and put it in a cheap spray bottle like a windex bottle. Then you've got your "starting fluid".

Edwards Saw Service in Glen Mills PA

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Us Arctic Cat guys call that "Meow Mix" .:laughing:

greggn said:

Us Arctic Cat guys call that "Meow Mix" .:laughing:

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That's dern funny.

I absolutely agree with the original post; I've seen broken rings, scored cylinder walls, bent rods, blown head gaskets on all size of equipment that used starting fluid. It can wreak havoc on all sorts of things. On diesels, I take a shop rag, spray a little ether on it, and while cranking the engine, hold the rag up to the air cleaner for a short time.

With a left handed screwdriver

Here's one that came off the farm years ago and given to me by my grandfather in the 60's. To loosen rusted nuts and bolts, soak the parts with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and kerosene. It may take awhile, but believe me it does works. I still use it today on the tough ones.

i have photocopies of rrepair/parts manuals for both the simplicity(allis chalmers) landlord(B-110+112) series and the snapper GT180 model tractor. i found that there is parts in the both of them that just may, what you call, uniserval parts. i had to find a flex plate for my snapper, which was NLA(no longer available) listed in the simplicity manual that was the same, which was still available. same part, different part #'s

Very carefully haha:laughing:

jamesslcx said:

Hey this ones pretty old but if you run out of antisieze you can substitute liquid antacid on threads, it works just as well.

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Are you telling me if I run out of liquid antacid, I can use a dab of antiseize to get rid of my heartburn!!

Rivets said:

Here's one that came off the farm years ago and given to me by my grandfather in the 60's. To loosen rusted nuts and bolts, soak the parts with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and kerosene. It may take awhile, but believe me it does works. I still use it today on the tough ones.

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Automatic tranny fluid and kerosine will work 10X better.


Rusted parts soaking in plain food grade vinegar will become clean metal after about a week and a light scrubbing with a wire brush.

cant ever use enough PB blaster or liquid wrench

antisieze anything you ever want to come apart again.

cringe on ordering anything from sears parts direct due to shipping costs and everything conveniently being $3.99 for a $0.05 part

if your taking apart complicated pieces or intricate things (especially things with springs and small washers screws/seals) take as many photos as you can. makes it MUCH easier to reference later on.

always look where your hand arm etc will end up IF that wrench slips, blades are sharp and just ran mowers have hot mufflers...

MowGuy said:

Automatic tranny fluid and kerosine will work 10X better.

Rusted parts soaking in plain food grade vinegar will become clean metal after about a week and a light scrubbing with a wire brush.

cant ever use enough PB blaster or liquid wrench

antisieze anything you ever want to come apart again.

cringe on ordering anything from sears parts direct due to shipping costs and everything conveniently being $3.99 for a $0.05 part

if your taking apart complicated pieces or intricate things (especially things with springs and small washers screws/seals) take as many photos as you can. makes it MUCH easier to reference later on.

always look where your hand arm etc will end up IF that wrench slips, blades are sharp and just ran mowers have hot mufflers...

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Good stuff here.

exotion said:

Good stuff here.

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i come from working on small engines since i was 12 moving on to cars and restoring cars, currently working on a 1929 model A ford. you learn all sorts of tricks from the restoration hobby. im sure i can remember a bunch more but drawing blanks right now haha

Here's a trick I use in a pinch when I don't have the right open-end wrench available, but one close. Say I need a 1/2" but only have a 9/16" at hand. Take a small washer, coin and fit it in tight between the bolt head and the wrench jaw. Tap it in with a hammer if necessary to snug it up and turn the wrench. Sometimes I've had to use 2 coins to bridge the gap! I've done it countless times when I had to. Anything metal you can wedge in there would work, an electrical box knock out plug, broken piece of hacksaw blade etc. You get the idea!

DaveTN said:

Here's a trick I use in a pinch when I don't have the right open-end wrench available, but one close. Say I need a 1/2" but only have a 9/16" at hand. Take a small washer, coin and fit it in tight between the bolt head and the wrench jaw. Tap it in with a hammer if necessary to snug it up and turn the wrench. Sometimes I've had to use 2 coins to bridge the gap! I've done it countless times when I had to. Anything metal you can wedge in there would work, an electrical box knock out plug, broken piece of hacksaw blade etc. You get the idea!

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So that is why they call it pinching pennies! :laughing: Good idea.

DaveTN said:

Here's a trick I use in a pinch when I don't have the right open-end wrench available, but one close. Say I need a 1/2" but only have a 9/16" at hand. Take a small washer, coin and fit it in tight between the bolt head and the wrench jaw. Tap it in with a hammer if necessary to snug it up and turn the wrench. Sometimes I've had to use 2 coins to bridge the gap! I've done it countless times when I had to. Anything metal you can wedge in there would work, an electrical box knock out plug, broken piece of hacksaw blade etc. You get the idea!

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Thank you for this tip.

(( cowboy up and get over it ))