safety switch killing batteries

ILENGINE

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It's Ok Mackie. We all have bad days, and I also got carried away, so I also apologize. I was also doing some digging and came across a patent for a small engine regulator/rectifier that could be connected to the battery, but not cause excessive discharge. The patent date was in 1986.

Kohler has for several years said that their regulators should be connected directly to the battery, or the battery side of the starter solenoid. Mostly to reduce the chance of power spikes. Remember Kohler has been fighting power spikes to their ignition modules, as well has roasting ECU's on the EFI engines. Which was the main reason for all the electric changes to the ignition modules over the years.

1.4 milliamp sounds about right, The Briggs regulator requires a minimum of 5 volts input for the output side to work.
 

Mad Mackie

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Hi ILENGINE,
Thank you for the regulator info and date. My 2008 Scag Tiger Cubs original 26 B&S ELS engine at 450 hours had 70 PSI comp in the L/H cylinder and a leakdown test showed bad or stuck rings. It powered up and operated fine, but sneezed at low idle. I had already replaced the intake manifold, head gaskets, valve adjustment, not wanting to bother with an overhaul on a 44P777 engine, I repowered with a new 49M977 two years ago, and the R/R problems started. On the 3rd R/R on this engine and I think due to poor grounding of the cooling baffle on which the R/R is mounted, I installed an aux #10 ground wire and have been OK so far.
Now, that we have discussed these charging systems and I'm more comfortable about them, (bear in mind that I'm old school 60s-70s) I'm thinking about removing the charging system output from the key switch and going direct to the battery positive. I'll do it so I can restore the original configuration easily if need be.
Other than minor charging system problems, I like the 49M977 engine, but I see that it has been discontinued and replaced the 49T877 which appears to be basically the same.
My buddy at Briggs "suggested" that I rewire the charging system direct and stop fussing about it, I guess that he knows me better than I realized!!! LOL
Later
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
 

ILENGINE

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Grounding of the regulator has always been a big fuss for engines, since they went to the plastic blower housings. Kohler went from a ground wire, to a grounding strap, to a silver bolt for better grounding of the regulator, and are now going back to a grounding wire. The briggs that I have seen here lately have the regulator attached to one of the metal cylinder baffles. You know after thinking about it some more. Grounding issues have caused more problems then any other, be it on mower engines, or automobiles, or trailer lights.
 

motoman

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Yea, grounding also very important to the "electronic" stuff. Perhaps readers should always look at chassis ground straps and the hardware holding them onto the metal such as the star washers which are meant to bite. Also paint will insulate or create resistance to good grounds (return path for current into the electrical system) . If you have an EFI (electronic fuel injection system) such ground connections are even more sensitive IMO. Sure glad to be in a forum with stand up- guys with class!!
 

Mad Mackie

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Hi Troops,
Attached are some pics of additional ground cables that I have added to my 2008 Scag Tiger Cub repower. This is the 3rd regulator rectifier on this engine and hopefully the last! I was able to determine that the metal cooling baffle on which the R/R in mounted was not suitably grounded after the 2nd R/R quit and then added the #10 grounding wire. I drilled a hole in the tab on the front of the engine crankcase and installed two extra grounding cables to the negative terminal on the battery.
This B&S 30 HP Commercial Turf Series engine so far has been a great engine. Aluminum intake manifold, Cyclonic Air Filtration System and other refinements have brought this series of B&S engines to a higher level of design and performance than the ELS and Intek engines were.
Check out the pics!
Mad Mackie in CT where it is now snowing!!!:mad:P3200006.JPGP3200007.JPGP3200008.JPGPA260010.JPG
 
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Fr Anthony

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My six month old Ariens 46 inch has killed two batteries, one brand new. As a friend had a similar problem i think his solution is mine also. Somehow the seat safety switch is killing these batteries. He had to take two new batteries back for replacement before he solved the problem: he disconnected the seat safety switch. On my Ariens the motor was running, the parking brake was set, I stepped off the tractor and the motor died. When I tried to start it up no sound at all...the battery was dead. Anyone else with the same problem?

This problem seems to have been solved by placing a zip tie around the safety switch. The mower is working fine.
 

Mad Mackie

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You really need to get the wiring diagram for your machine so you can properly diagnose the problem. The seat switch may still be working properly, but reacting to another situation in the system that could come back to haunt or hurt the machine operator.
 
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