Problems with the cutting deck

[bertsmobile1]

I would have put a stronger spring on the tension arm or just moved a bit further back to increase the tension a bit
This is of course assuming that the spindles spin freely , have good bearings and the blades are balanced .

 

[Bange]

Well, now it's a refinement...
Today I'm on my micro farm and I'm going to do a test drive... here I still don't have a workshop structure like in my house where I live.
Here I still don't have internet or a computer... just my cell phone.
Free spindles, tensioner bearings and new passage... sharp and balanced blades still with the axis in the hole... but I noticed a difference in height at the ends of the blades, when ideally they should be leveled... there are approximately 3 or 4mm... would that be enough for the vibration?
If yes, how to correct this, as the cause must be an unevenness in the deck

 

[Bange]

The test drive worked very well... I just had to readjust the height of the deck, as level 6 was too heavy to engage... but the little vibration I still have to solve...
As for the unevenness of the blades, I plan to follow in Taryl's footsteps and use precision tools...

 

[Bange]

Previously I had shown that I managed to hit the up/down movement of the deck, but I didn't show how.
I tried first not to shoot the water, and it turned out really well... here's the solution, simple and cheap.

 

[Bange]

Well, back to the topic...
I did a re-evaluation of the balance, looking for something more dynamic, re-evaluating the axles for looseness or bending (everything perfect), I clamped the assembly on a piece of iron vertically and...

The pulley has little or no influence...a small gap in the shaft teeth, was the justification for the blade to always stop horizontally and with the same side down...
After the best possible corrections, the vibration improved well, but it's not over...
Do you think that the following gaps can have a significant influence on the vibration of the tensioning pulley?

 

[bertsmobile1]

The tension arm should swing around the bush freely with little to no up & down play
I regularly turn up new bushes , weld worn arms to build up cupped sections & fit substantially bigger flanges to give more support .
You seem to be handy with tools so it should not be a problem for you

 

[Bange]

Makes alot of sense...
I tried to eliminate the gaps by putting shims around the bushing and adding washers. all made of aluminum foil (from a beer can), the vibration has decreased significantly, but it's not gone and I don't know if the vibration that remained can be considered normal, as I haven't seen a reference yet.
But I'm thinking of putting a ball bearing... the problem is that if it doesn't work, the piece will be almost irreversible or at least very difficult to return.
Could you give me an idea of the traction force of the spring connected to the cable and the other one that returns the set when it is disengaged?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Makes alot of sense...
I tried to eliminate the gaps by putting shims around the bushing and adding washers. all made of aluminum foil (from a beer can), the vibration has decreased significantly, but it's not gone and I don't know if the vibration that remained can be considered normal, as I haven't seen a reference yet.
But I'm thinking of putting a ball bearing... the problem is that if it doesn't work, the piece will be almost irreversible or at least very difficult to return.
Could you give me an idea of the traction force of the spring connected to the cable and the other one that returns the set when it is disengaged?

Way beyond my pay grade that one

 

[Bange]

Does anyone know how to inform the function of this coincident drilling?

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[Bange]

No answer???
I believe it has to do with the adjustment of the belt tension, because from this hole the brakes start releasing the spindles and the belt engages in the grooves of the pulleys, transmitting the movement of the engine.

One more question:
The pulley engagement lever describes an arc of just over 90° and this pulls the steel cable (only the cable), in my case the displacement is 8 centimeters... is this a standard value or does each manufacturer make their own?