That's why I asked for proof " I saw" does not count as proof. Show me pics, internet sites that state proof
So I am not the only one getting annoyed at every problem getting blamed on ethanol.
I want proof. Actual with sources proof posted here.
If you can find some hard evidence and facts let me know.
You can prove it yourself. Here's how:
1)Take one(any) of your mowers out of service in regard to your business.
2)Fill it up at the beginning of the season with fresh regular/unleaded/ethanol gasoline.
3)Start it and run the engine for 30 minutes and turn it off.
4)Store the mower until the end of the season.
5)Get the mower out at the end of the season and start it up, running it for 30 minutes and turn it off.
6)Store the mower for the winter.
7)Next beginning of the season start the mower(if it will). Top up with more ethanol gas and repeat Steps 2-6.
If this mower isn't "ruined" in 2 seasons....at most 3 seasons of this regiment of ethanol gas, you've proved it isn't harmful......otherwise you have your proof.
It's more the moisture/water that the ethanol additive attracts(no combustion engine is designed to run on a high percentage content of water) as well as the ethanol itself(in regards to long periods of storage in regular gas lines).
Personally, I don't need proof as I've only got one lawn mower, cannot afford to take it out of service to prove that ethanol is bad for it and am just not willing to gamble.
Again, I reiterate....if a Kawasaki manual specifically states that using gasoline with ethanol in excess of 10% "voids the engine warranty" why doe they say that??? My interpretation of that is why would 11% be harmful(your position on ethanol)???? If 11% is that bad, IMHO 1% can't be "good".
P.S.
I can honestly say that I have "performed the steps above" years ago with "regular/unleaded/non-ethanol" gasoline in a lawn tractor I purchased in 1993. I did this for better than 19 years(never draining the gas tank or shutting off the fuel supply at the end of the season). I actually NEVER had any fuel-related problems with that mower that was retired in 2012(19 years of running non-ethanol gas). I sure wouldn't try that with ethanol gasoline!!!! I put ethanol gas in a front-tine tiller and the next season it wouldn't start. Sea-Foam got it going again, but it still has to have the choke partially on to keep it from dying. That's enough proof for me:0)
You can prove it yourself. Here's how:
1)Take one(any) of your mowers out of service in regard to your business.
2)Fill it up at the beginning of the season with fresh regular/unleaded/ethanol gasoline.
3)Start it and run the engine for 30 minutes and turn it off.
4)Store the mower until the end of the season.
5)Get the mower out at the end of the season and start it up, running it for 30 minutes and turn it off.
6)Store the mower for the winter.
7)Next beginning of the season start the mower(if it will). Top up with more ethanol gas and repeat Steps 2-6.
If this mower isn't "ruined" in 2 seasons....at most 3 seasons of this regiment of ethanol gas, you've proved it isn't harmful......otherwise you have your proof.
It's more the moisture/water that the ethanol additive attracts(no combustion engine is designed to run on a high percentage content of water) as well as the ethanol itself(in regards to long periods of storage in regular gas lines).
Personally, I don't need proof as I've only got one lawn mower, cannot afford to take it out of service to prove that ethanol is bad for it and am just not willing to gamble.
Again, I reiterate....if a Kawasaki manual specifically states that using gasoline with ethanol in excess of 10% "voids the engine warranty" why doe they say that??? My interpretation of that is why would 11% be harmful(your position on ethanol)???? If 11% is that bad, IMHO 1% can't be "good".
P.S.
I can honestly say that I have "performed the steps above" years ago with "regular/unleaded/non-ethanol" gasoline in a lawn tractor I purchased in 1993. I did this for better than 19 years(never draining the gas tank or shutting off the fuel supply at the end of the season). I actually NEVER had any fuel-related problems with that mower that was retired in 2012(19 years of running non-ethanol gas). I sure wouldn't try that with ethanol gasoline!!!! I put ethanol gas in a front-tine tiller and the next season it wouldn't start. Sea-Foam got it going again, but it still has to have the choke partially on to keep it from dying. That's enough proof for me:0)
I believe your test would prove more human error and failure to properly use and maintain your equipment that's not proof.
Boy I'm glad that the lawn care specialists are such experts on the problems with todays fuels. You probably won't accept my proof, but it might help the average uneducated lawn specialists. About 4 years ago we started seeing equipment coming back four to five months after it has be in for routine tune-ups and complete check overs. Problems we were seeing, but confined to, surging, lean running engines, fuel line problems in two-cycle equipment. What we were finding was, gel in fuel bowls, corrosion of aluminum carb bodies, fuel lines and filters softening and breaking down in four cycle, hradening and breaking in two cycle. If you are in the repair business this is not how to keep customers. We tried everything that we knew to find what we were missing, doing wrong, or what is causing our problems. We had heard about people suggesting ethanol causing the problem and decided to change the fuel we used in the shop to non ethanol fuel and had a sticker made up to educate our customers which is put on every piece of equipment that leaves the shop. Since doing so we have cut our comebacks by over 90% and have also seen our business increase as more new customers are returning with different equipment which other dealers have not been able to repair. Most of them now use the non ethanol fuel in all of their small engine equipment and have told us that they are please with the way they running and now only see us for routine service.
Also, one of the small engine trade magazines just had an article by a VP at Briggs, who talked about the problems which engine manufacturers are having with the different fuels out there and what they are doing to find a solution.
Is this the proof you want, probably not, but for the average guy who reads this, it is a way which we have helped our customers and it only costs about $10.00 a year. (That's figuring 40 cents more per gallon for the customer who uses 25 gallons a year in their small engine equipment). To me that's cheap insurance.
For those that question whether we really have experience in our shop, there are four mechanics who have over 125 years in the service industry, with the lowest guy with only about 20. Certificates on our wall include those for working on 8 small engine manufacturers, 6 equipment manufactures ranging for saws to 140 HP tractors, so we are not a bunch of dumbos.
Is there a problem with ethanol in the small engine industry? It all depends on what you believe. I say yes and right now the solution for us is paying 40 cents more per gallon of gas.
Please. Remember to read my signature.
Boy I'm glad that the lawn care specialists are such experts on the problems with todays fuels. You probably won't accept my proof, but it might help the average uneducated lawn specialists. About 4 years ago we started seeing equipment coming back four to five months after it has be in for routine tune-ups and complete check overs. Problems we were seeing, but confined to, surging, lean running engines, fuel line problems in two-cycle equipment. What we were finding was, gel in fuel bowls, corrosion of aluminum carb bodies, fuel lines and filters softening and breaking down in four cycle, hradening and breaking in two cycle. If you are in the repair business this is not how to keep customers. We tried everything that we knew to find what we were missing, doing wrong, or what is causing our problems. We had heard about people suggesting ethanol causing the problem and decided to change the fuel we used in the shop to non ethanol fuel and had a sticker made up to educate our customers which is put on every piece of equipment that leaves the shop. Since doing so we have cut our comebacks by over 90% and have also seen our business increase as more new customers are returning with different equipment which other dealers have not been able to repair. Most of them now use the non ethanol fuel in all of their small engine equipment and have told us that they are please with the way they running and now only see us for routine service.
Also, one of the small engine trade magazines just had an article by a VP at Briggs, who talked about the problems which engine manufacturers are having with the different fuels out there and what they are doing to find a solution.
Is this the proof you want, probably not, but for the average guy who reads this, it is a way which we have helped our customers and it only costs about $10.00 a year. (That's figuring 40 cents more per gallon for the customer who uses 25 gallons a year in their small engine equipment). To me that's cheap insurance.
For those that question whether we really have experience in our shop, there are four mechanics who have over 125 years in the service industry, with the lowest guy with only about 20. Certificates on our wall include those for working on 8 small engine manufacturers, 6 equipment manufactures ranging for saws to 140 HP tractors, so we are not a bunch of dumbos.
Is there a problem with ethanol in the small engine industry? It all depends on what you believe. I say yes and right now the solution for us is paying 40 cents more per gallon of gas.
Please. Remember to read my signature.
Boy I'm glad that the lawn care specialists are such experts on the problems with todays fuels. You probably won't accept my proof, but it might help the average uneducated lawn specialists. About 4 years ago we started seeing equipment coming back four to five months after it has be in for routine tune-ups and complete check overs. Problems we were seeing, but confined to, surging, lean running engines, fuel line problems in two-cycle equipment. What we were finding was, gel in fuel bowls, corrosion of aluminum carb bodies, fuel lines and filters softening and breaking down in four cycle, hradening and breaking in two cycle. If you are in the repair business this is not how to keep customers. We tried everything that we knew to find what we were missing, doing wrong, or what is causing our problems. We had heard about people suggesting ethanol causing the problem and decided to change the fuel we used in the shop to non ethanol fuel and had a sticker made up to educate our customers which is put on every piece of equipment that leaves the shop. Since doing so we have cut our comebacks by over 90% and have also seen our business increase as more new customers are returning with different equipment which other dealers have not been able to repair. Most of them now use the non ethanol fuel in all of their small engine equipment and have told us that they are please with the way they running and now only see us for routine service.
Also, one of the small engine trade magazines just had an article by a VP at Briggs, who talked about the problems which engine manufacturers are having with the different fuels out there and what they are doing to find a solution.
Is this the proof you want, probably not, but for the average guy who reads this, it is a way which we have helped our customers and it only costs about $10.00 a year. (That's figuring 40 cents more per gallon for the customer who uses 25 gallons a year in their small engine equipment). To me that's cheap insurance.
For those that question whether we really have experience in our shop, there are four mechanics who have over 125 years in the service industry, with the lowest guy with only about 20. Certificates on our wall include those for working on 8 small engine manufacturers, 6 equipment manufactures ranging for saws to 140 HP tractors, so we are not a bunch of dumbos.
Is there a problem with ethanol in the small engine industry? It all depends on what you believe. I say yes and right now the solution for us is paying 40 cents more per gallon of gas.
Please. Remember to read my signature.
First, I never talk about cutting lawns, edging, raking, etc. as you imply I do. I stick to what I know, engines and equipment. I stay away from those discussions and leave that to those in that business. Second, if you read my post, I said 4 mechanics, between the owner and me we have over 80 years. Those mechanics who have been around will tell you the the engine manufacturers have been talking about fuel and ethanol problems at update schools for the last 15 years.
Lawn care guys probably have not had the problem, because they go through more fuel in a week than the average guy does in a year. The fuel is not sitting around, but being used, just like in your vehicles. There are hundreds of people who come to this forum looking for answers, and you know that when I see info posted that could hurt them or their equipment, I am going to call out the poster. Insulted, no. Call me what you want, it will stick like water to a oily floor, which you'll slip on in the future if you don't clean it up. I stand by what I post and have hundreds of customers who have thanked us for preaching "non ethanol fuel".
To read about what I related to, just google "Briggs VP talks ethanol" and you will find plenty of articles. Even Consumer Reports say "ethanol can destroy small engines"
Ethanol does not cause small engine problems. There I said it. Ethanol is actually a solvent, which in other words is a cleaner. The problem with ethanol is its love for water. Ethanol can absorb up to 1% water before it separates out of the gas. which also lowers the octane of the fuel about 2 octane. The water contains desolved minerals that interact with the water and the ethanol and form a mild acid, similar to vinegar. The vinegar slime, water mix causes corrosion to aluminum and steel parts of engines, and with todays fine tuned, microscopic passage carbs, it takes very little corrosion to cause blockages of those passages.
The people that run large amounts of fuel through there equipment will not see problems with there engines. There is enough fuel exchanged to prevent phase separation, and the cleaning properties of the ethanol actually help remove any deposits that have accumulated. The problem is more pronounced in equipment that sets for periods of time, and I am not even sure that draining the fuel, which will leave a small amount of fuel in the carb, doesn't accelerate the problem in some cases, because of the added oxygen in the fuel due to the ethanol.
Twenty years ago techs such as myself were dealing with adjustable carbs, very little ethanol fuel available. but would see water in carbs, and fuel tanks, which if was allowed to set for a period of time would cause rust of metal parts. what we are seeing now is carbs are white internally, with aluminum oxide corrosion, and they look like the have been setting in an acid bath. The main thing that has changed with fuel over the period of time is the additional availablity of ethanol enriched fuel.
The fuel lines that are being used on most equipment are not designed for continuious exposure to solvents. Try putting a piece of fuel line in carb cleaner for a period of time and see what happens. it will either soften, swell if rubber, or harden and shrink if made from a plastic material.
Also rivets I would like a link to that article you were talking about please I am interested in reading it
Ethanol does not cause small engine problems. There I said it. Ethanol is actually a solvent, which in other words is a cleaner. The problem with ethanol is its love for water. Ethanol can absorb up to 1% water before it separates out of the gas. which also lowers the octane of the fuel about 2 octane. The water contains desolved minerals that interact with the water and the ethanol and form a mild acid, similar to vinegar. The vinegar slime, water mix causes corrosion to aluminum and steel parts of engines, and with todays fine tuned, microscopic passage carbs, it takes very little corrosion to cause blockages of those passages.
The people that run large amounts of fuel through there equipment will not see problems with there engines. There is enough fuel exchanged to prevent phase separation, and the cleaning properties of the ethanol actually help remove any deposits that have accumulated. The problem is more pronounced in equipment that sets for periods of time, and I am not even sure that draining the fuel, which will leave a small amount of fuel in the carb, doesn't accelerate the problem in some cases, because of the added oxygen in the fuel due to the ethanol.
Twenty years ago techs such as myself were dealing with adjustable carbs, very little ethanol fuel available. but would see water in carbs, and fuel tanks, which if was allowed to set for a period of time would cause rust of metal parts. what we are seeing now is carbs are white internally, with aluminum oxide corrosion, and they look like the have been setting in an acid bath. The main thing that has changed with fuel over the period of time is the additional availablity of ethanol enriched fuel.
The fuel lines that are being used on most equipment are not designed for continuious exposure to solvents. Try putting a piece of fuel line in carb cleaner for a period of time and see what happens. it will either soften, swell if rubber, or harden and shrink if made from a plastic material.
May not be the same article mentioned by Rivets, but here's an interesting read about the ethanol treatment Briggs developed(and why):
Briggs & Stratton develops ethanol additive
Good article, I love the part Is Briggs exaggerating? I think like she says it's a house keeping issue :thumbsup:
Another ethanol-bashing comment......have you noticed the increase in the price of meat & dairy products since the proliferation of ethanol gasoline. Information I have gotten from Tennessee farmers that I know is that the competitive pricing for maintaining "corn-fed" stock with the biofuel producers scooping up huge corn crops have filtered down to the price they have to charge to market their products because of increased feed costs.... that:0)
Another ethanol-bashing comment......have you noticed the increase in the price of meat & dairy products since the proliferation of ethanol gasoline. Information I have gotten from Tennessee farmers that I know is that the competitive pricing for maintaining "corn-fed" stock with the biofuel producers scooping up huge corn crops have filtered down to the price they have to charge to market their products because of increased feed costs. That......2-4mpg less fuel mileage economy, "debatable" adverse affects on fuel systems.....can someone please tell what is GOOD about ethanol???? And don't tell me "environmental benefits"....my 1995 Chevy truck passed emissions testing before ethanol and actually, the only time it failed was with a post-ethanol annual MARTA test to renew the tags(good ole SeaFoam cured that failed test). Also......have you noticed how many "gas treatment products" have come to market over the last few years(since ethanol became widespread) with the intention of helping your vehicle pass the emission tests(what's up with that:0)
No ethanol problems here i only buy 90 octane ethanol free gasoline
Humidity can play a large part in ethanol problems. My dealer like to show off the ruined carbs. I looked a string trimmer yesterday at a neighbors. The fuel he drained from the tank was about two thirds fuel mix and one third water. It had been filled from an almost empty five gallon fuel container that still looked brand new but had fuel in it from the year before. The amazing thing was the trimmer started and ran for a minute or so. The carb is white pitted metal with rust scattered through it. Some portions of the metal is just gone.
Question what and why does Humidity have to do with ethanol problems.
Question what and why does Humidity have to do with ethanol problems.
:confused2: My head is spinning with some of these pretty wise comments, comments from posters with lots of obvious common sense and lots of experience.
Anyhoos, as for the relationship between humidity and ethanol, my logic:
Ethanol "attracts" moisture THEREFORE high humidity = high probability of condensation (like fog and dew) THEREFORE condensation + oxygen = high probability of problems like rust
:confused2: My head is spinning with some of these pretty wise comments, comments from posters with lots of obvious common sense and lots of experience.
Anyhoos, as for the relationship between humidity and ethanol, my logic:
Ethanol "attracts" moisture THEREFORE high humidity = high probability of condensation (like fog and dew) THEREFORE condensation + oxygen = high probability of problems like rust
I think there may be some sense to this, but I think it may be more related to temperature variations. Large swings in temperature variation, due to expansion and contraction may play a part due to air exchange in unsealed containers.
Years ago there was a problem with water condensing in fuel containers, and I always asked how the water got in there. And was always told condensation. And I always asked how the condensation got inside of a seal container. And they could never answer that questions.
ILENGINE Your right, temperature variations, due to expansion and contraction cause condensation. We've had problems with water in gas long before Ethanol or Bio-fuels were ever thought of so to blame Ethanol for the problem I think is a little strange to say the least.
Question(s).......when, not if, the EPA forces E15 ethanol sales on the masses will you burn that readily available fuel in your existing equipment without hesitation........OR.......will you seek out E10 that you have been using without problems "if" it is still avaialble???? If you answer that you will seek out E10, what's the difference in that and those of us now seeking out ethanol-free???
If the EPA has there way and if they decide on E15 instead of just jumping to the E85, What I'll use will be decided by the equipment I'm using. When and if E15 hits the market I would guess that they would already have the equipment for it's use already for sale so I would be replacing what I have with new if the old couldn't be converted. As far as me seeking out the E10.... No...I wouldn't look for it or go out of my way to find it anymore than I have for ethanol free gas, In my opinion seeking out Ethanol free gas to run when I have equipment that is very capable of running E10 is ridiculous and a waste of time and money and not away to show a larger profit for the business, say nothing about trying to explain it to an auditor why I'm doing that when I get deductions on gas use.
The thing I think that bothers me is the E85 that's already available and being sold at stations for FFV's. As I said there are 10 stations in Florida now that have and sell E85 and almost 3000 stations throughout the country. Ford, GM and Dodge have had FFV's on the market since the early 1980's that would run and use E85 and are using it now, so tell me why the EPA should even consider using E15, people may be in for a rude awakening.
So I am not the only one getting annoyed at every problem getting blamed on ethanol. I want proof. Actual with sources proof posted here. If you can find some hard evidence and facts let me know.
All I low is the techs at both local dealers who sell Stihl tell us that Stihl warns against using it. One tech told me that not to even use a can that had previously had 10% in it. I run 93 octane non ethanol in every thing I have that is gas but my Kubota 222. It has over 200 hours on it and has had no problems so far. The reason I do not run the non ethanol in it is the availability. The places we normally fuel that have off road diesel which I run in my 326 don't have non ethanol. We use a covered trailer and have to unload to fuel. The book says no more than 10% and we fill it often so I go with the flow.
I did run my hand held equipment on it when we started up last summer. I had some carb problems on my cub cadet trimmer early this spring. We used it basically all winter too because it was a split pole and we used th pole saw and other attachments on it basically all winter.
Here in Missouri all the fuel is mandated by law to contain 10% ethanol. I have not had a problem with it but toward the middle of the summer when my grass slows down I start adding 1oz per gallon of Seafoam to all the fuel that I use in my mower and small equipment. Seafoam helps with the fuel separation problem. And at the end of the summer on my last mowings I add an additional amount of Marvel Mystery oil to the cans when I fill them. I have never drained my equipment and have never in the last 20 years had fuel related problems.
I retired from an oil company and while I was with them many customers insisted that the manufactures recommended no ethanol be used in their equipment. I personally called every manufacturer that I was told did not recommend ethanol and every one of them including Stihl told me that 10% ethanol was standard motor fuel in the United States and would not harm their equipment. Every one of them however cautioned that the fuel should be kept fresh and the oil fuel mix should be shaken before added to the equipment.
I personally would prefer to use non ethanol fuel but it is not available in my area.
Your first statement is NOT a fact!!! See the link below for non-ethanol stations in Missouri.
Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
No real proof here, just observation. I've been mowing for nearly 40 years and driving for nearly 30 years. E10 did not become predominant in our area until about 7-8 years ago. When that switch was made, I almost immediately noticed a 1-1.5 mpg drop in all four of my on-road vehicles. The oldest one being a '95, however I had no issues with the E10, other than the mileage. The other issues I noticed were in my two-stroke equipment. Within two years of the switch I had to start replacing the fuel lines, and about every two years since then. My four-stroke equipment has not had an issues either. My procedure for storing my equipment is as follows.....fill the tank mixed with the proper amount of Stabil, run the equipment long enough for the Stabil to become noticable in the exhaust(I can smell it, others can't), then shut off the fuel and let the carb run dry, and finally remove the battery if it has one. On the small two-stroke equipment, I drain the fuel, refill a small amount with fuel mixed with Stabil and let it run until it's out of gas. Other than having to replace the fuel lines on the two-strokes about every two years, I have no issues. Everything always starts right up in the spring and runs like a champ. I've done this for more than 20 years now.
Two questions: First, if ethanol is not to blame, or at least part of the cause, then why did I never have to replace a fuel line on any two-stroke equipment before E10? And secondly, why am I only having to replace the fuel lines on my two-stroke equipment, but not on any four-stroke equipment? I have more four-stroke equipment than what is listed in my signature, such as a 30+ year old Troy Bilt tiller.
BTW: This has been a good discussion. :thumbsup:
I am glad to see this list, however it is the law here, and as someone pointed out this is the case unless straight gas is less expensive than the stuff with ethanol, some stations may have one grade that is ethanol free. The Sinclair station in Cabool also known as the El Rancho truck stop has one grade that is ethanol free.
Here in Willow Springs the Caseys station has dropped their unleaded plus for the time being do to the fact that they did not meet the mandate. I am told when they work it out they will again offer both unleaded and unleaded plus, both containing ethanol.
I stopped today on my way to Springfield and talked to the folks at the Sinclair and they told me that one of their grades was ethanol free but the girl did not know which one, I'll stop in later and talk to the manage about it. It is only 10 miles away so I can easily go over there to get fuel for my stuff.
Frozen gas, now I've seen it all!! Ethanol is an alcohol, alcohol attracts moisture, moisture attracts corrosion and corrosion in carbs puts money in my pocket. My memory isn't what it used to be, but about 6years ago, about the time of the horsepower lawsuit, the engine manufacturers started leaning out their carbs to meet the California emission rules. This resulted in even smaller jets and passageways in the carbs. Couple this with the corrosive problems of the ethanol fuels and the problem shows itself.
Hey, I'm just the messenger, please don't "re-load":0)
Maybe not frozen "gas"...OR....frozen "ethanol/alcohol"......as that's not an inherent property of either. But what about "frozen attracted moisture" causing problems??? Or...maybe YOU have a theory as to WHY Alaska has no ethanol????????? They are a "State" of the U.S. just like the rest of us....so what makes them so "special"?????
The question I have is that with all these so called problems that's being blamed on ethanol, why is it that it seems to be just the last four or five years and not for all the years it has been available and has been being used. Rivets posted about 4 years ago we started seeing equipment coming back four to five months after it has be in for routine tune-ups and complete check overs, problems we were seeing, but confined to, surging, lean running engines, fuel line problems in two-cycle equipment and if ethanol is the blame why didn't we see it previous years?
..... Thanks to our wonderful GOV and EPA we will soon have E20. They will not "force" you into an electric car, you'll buy one cause your dino burner doesn't run. With coal power plants being shut down the juice to charge these cars will go through the roof. Solar is a great idea until the batteries blow your house up or start piling up in landfills. Some say wind mills kill birds, I say it weeds out the dumb ones. Someone in 2007 publicly stated "Under my version of a cap and trade plan electricity prices will necessarily skyrocket". Any guesses?
Hey Exotion.....see what you started....:laughing:
Actually its been an interesting, and for the most part, civil experience.
Bruce
I have a 2010 Taurus. That new of a car should be built to handle ethanol mixed fuel. Well, it specifically states in the owners manual to NOT use E20. Yes, thank you EPA!!!! I can't wait to see what headaches you will cause me!!
I don't know about E20, but according to the RFS Act(Renewable Fuel Standard), E15 will be hitting the market before we know it(and my Gravely & Kawasaki specifically state that anything higher than E10 will "void my warranty":0(
Don't know if this would be condidered "proof" of the disadvantages of E15, but below is a link that warns of the potential problems associated with it:
Fill Up On Facts
P.S.
It also has a link to "Tell Washington to repeal the RFS", if that is the inclination of your stand on Ethanol being "forced" upon us by our government(I cringe every time I think about that satement...."we are here from the government and we want to help":0(
I hate to say this but that link isn't proof of anything, It's posted by the people of the Oil and natural gas Industry. It's what the oil industry wants you to believe. They post the propaganda because the more Bio-fuel that is used the less profit they make. It's natural that they will say and post anything to get people stirred up over its use.
E15 will be interesting but basically there is nothing anyone can do about it so.... Adapt, overcome, and improvise that's all we can do besides wait and see.
Basically so far I see a couple recurring things here. People do not run their equipment enough and don't know how to maintain. And cheap parts that will fail anyway but failure being sped up by improper maintenance.
Not excatly what I was asking for. So far I have gotten opinions and links to other opinions yet to see actual proof. Any one care to do experiment and post pics and progress here. Find some old carbs that run take them off soak them in e10 for a certain amount of time and test the carbs after a week Again after a month and monthly after that maybe this will prove it?
Hilllawnmower, I don't feel that the pics you posted are proof of a fuel problem. I see two different problems and causes. First, I see a definite dirt ingestion problem. Second, I see a lot of carbon build-up. To me the cause is poor maintenance and improper fuel/oil ratio or carb adjustment.
Just some food for thought...the whole idea of "proof" being needed is debatable within itself...
Maybe it's time for someone to provide the "proof" that ethanol added gasoline does not cause engine problems
I am thoroughly convinced that it makes absolutely no sense for someone(like you) that mows commercially to use non-ethanol gas for the many logical reasons you have given(and the fact that you go through gas so quickly the chances of having fuel system problems is slim or none). I still contend that for homeowners that mow weekly at best there is still a strong argument towards burning the non-ethanol. You may be right about E85 becoming the norm before E15 is even considered. And most likely E10 would continue to be marketed for "pre-FFV" equipment. If they completely do away with non-ethanol(also a very good possibility) I guess I'll use E10 with Stabil and once-a-season SeaFoam treatment:0(
P.S.
of course, they will probably "gouge the consumer price-wise" for E10 after E85 dominates just like they are doing now with non-ethanol:0(
Here's just a small portion of the crap that I took out of the bowl of a Vanguard Briggs & Stratton motor that wouldn't run on Saturday. <img src="http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachments/mower-equipment-operation/21542-post-proof-bad-ethanol-problems-img_3549[1]-jpg"/> This Briggs 12.5 2 cyl engine is in a chipper/shredder that wouldn't run beyond a lumpy idle for anything. Enough fuel was getting through the jet to support the idle, but the float and needle were plugged with varnish/shellac/sand like crap so badly that the bowl couldn't fill up fast enough to support any more fuel than idle, so it would briefly spin up and then die as the bowl emptied. Complete dis-assembly and a lot of time with carb cleaner and probes. I used a small drill bit to clean the jet and scrubbed the bowl and floats with a small wire brush and 20 ounces of Gumout carb cleaner before it finally got cleaned to "normal". You can see a lot of the corrosion damage to the bottom of the inside of the bowl from the alcohol fuel that sat there with intermittent use. Check out how badly this is pitted and this photo was taken AFTER I had cleaned it. I couldn't do much for the pitting damage beyond getting the shellac like gel/sand junk out <img src="http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachments/mower-equipment-operation/21543-post-proof-bad-ethanol-problems-img_3551[1]-jpg"/> After an hour of scrubbing This is what I finally had to put back on the engine: <img src="http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachments/mower-equipment-operation/21544-post-proof-bad-ethanol-problems-img_3553[1]-jpg"/> This was what I scraped out of the bowl: <img src="http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachments/mower-equipment-operation/21545-post-proof-bad-ethanol-problems-img_3555[1]-jpg"/> When you see this sand like crap that ethanol fuels create in your small engine carburetor float bowl, it's easy to understand why it won't run worth a crap with all this plugging it up! <img src="http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachments/mower-equipment-operation/21546-post-proof-bad-ethanol-problems-img_3556[1]-jpg"/>
Carscw, I'm not sure where you're coming from but perhaps you can give me the test procedures that you will approve of so we don't waste time with studies that you will dismiss.And what test and study's did you do to know that ethanol did this?
Things like this happened years before ethanol was added to the gas.
I still say people blame ethanol for problems caused by their poor upkeep and lack of
Carscw, I'm not sure where you're coming from but perhaps you can give me the test procedures that you will approve of so we don't waste time with studies that you will dismiss.
For openers, this was not my engine but the engine of a neighbor who is a poster child for casual maintenance; that's where you only fix what breaks and take no preventative steps. So understand that I'm fixing someone else's problem here.
I've been turning wrenches for five of my six decades of life and have watched the effects of new blended fuels on everything from gasket material to floats and needles ruined. It is a problem in antique performance engines as the ethanol flash point is not the same as gasoline, but I'm sure you are already well aware of that. Wonder why they took Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate out of motor oils? ZDDP was a lubricant that was tremendously beneficial to flat tappet motors and diesel engines but the catalytic converters were becoming plated and ineffective when burned motor oil went through the combustion chamber so ZDDP levels are all but gone in motor oil now and there are negative results of that. That is not the discussion here, but it is an example of how reformulated blends have an adverse impact on some engines when all internal combustion engines are expected to run on the same stuff.
There are today a range of additives which have come in to attempt to offset the negative effects of the new ethanol blended fuels and those additives combine in an organic chemical cocktail that will work ok as a combustion chamber fuel source, but are a nightmare for stability. I'm sure you've read all the reports on this already so I won't bore you with the details. My experience is that these additives now have a much faster evaporation rate and when they evaporate out of the fuel, they leave behind the other additives intended to balance the alcohol and those remaining additives are not simpatico with gasoline alone. That in turn is where you see these compounds form and precipitate into small sand-like hard crystals form that are shown in my photos.
In response to your statement "Things like this happened years before ethanol was added to the gas." I strongly disagree. While we had fuel related problems, they were nothing like what ethanol blended fuels are today. 40 years ago, well before ethanol was anything other than ethly alcohol solvent that is commonly used to prep your arm for an injection (rubbing alcohol), I would see varnish and shellac form in fuel systems that were sitting for extended periods. I'm talking no engine start for many months and even years. This was common. You could pull the gas cap and take a whiff of the fuel and it smelled sour and you instantly knew that gas was a dark brown color and the line, the carburetor bowl, needle, seat, jets, and fuel tap were all going to be plugged with varnish. When you went after that with carb cleaner, it dissolved. Fast forward to ethanol blended fuels and now the timeline for trouble is SEVERELY shortened to a few months or less, and, the resultant "varnish" is now a crystalline compound coupled with varnish like gel; a deadly plugging combination.
The tone of your challenge is understand reading in type, but it is confrontational in asking for "And what test and study's [SIC] did you do...". So I'll ask you to tell me what analytical procedures you'd like me to use and I'm happy to try to apply them. I'm chemist and work in the chemical industry so as long as your request for evidence beyond what I've already given is acceptable, I'll try to reply.
Lastly, I do agree with a portion of your statement and only a portion: "...problems caused by their poor upkeep and lack of" People could do a lot of good for themselves, and adversely impact the small and antique engine mechanical trade severely if they simply shut down the fuel supply and ran their engines dry when they are about to have them hibernate for an extended period. I do not subscribe to the concept not run fuel systems dry because the gaskets dry out; I've had engines down for years that were dry of fuel and as soon as fuel was reintroduced it roared to life without incident. Also, ethanol fuels have dissolved more hoses and gaskets on me than have failed by being dry so material compatibility issues are paramount to understanding the breadth of issues brought on by these blended fuels.
In summary, please know that ethanol is not the sole additive in fuels and while we refer to these blended fuels as ethanol, it's really a whole new combustion cocktail with oxygenators; lead scavengers; anti-knock agents; alcohols; various ether compounds (MBTE etc); dyes; and injector cleaners just to name a few. 45 years ago, we only had GM's 1920 invention of tetra-ethyl lead top end lubricant and octane booster and that was about it. So let's run that challenge flag up the pole on the basis of science if you're going to use it, and not conjecture and emotion.
Fair enough?
GentlemanFahmah thank you for the write up and photos, the ethanol is bad gas and does not cause build up and issues in a short time frame, why anyone would run that crap is beyond me ...
Carscw, I'm not sure where you're coming from but perhaps you can give me the test procedures that you will approve of so we don't waste time with studies that you will dismiss. For openers, this was not my engine but the engine of a neighbor who is a poster child for casual maintenance; that's where you only fix what breaks and take no preventative steps. So understand that I'm fixing someone else's problem here. I've been turning wrenches for five of my six decades of life and have watched the effects of new blended fuels on everything from gasket material to floats and needles ruined. It is a problem in antique performance engines as the ethanol flash point is not the same as gasoline, but I'm sure you are already well aware of that. Wonder why they took Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate out of motor oils? ZDDP was a lubricant that was tremendously beneficial to flat tappet motors and diesel engines but the catalytic converters were becoming plated and ineffective when burned motor oil went through the combustion chamber so ZDDP levels are all but gone in motor oil now and there are negative results of that. That is not the discussion here, but it is an example of how reformulated blends have an adverse impact on some engines when all internal combustion engines are expected to run on the same stuff. There are today a range of additives which have come in to attempt to offset the negative effects of the new ethanol blended fuels and those additives combine in an organic chemical cocktail that will work ok as a combustion chamber fuel source, but are a nightmare for stability. I'm sure you've read all the reports on this already so I won't bore you with the details. My experience is that these additives now have a much faster evaporation rate and when they evaporate out of the fuel, they leave behind the other additives intended to balance the alcohol and those remaining additives are not simpatico with gasoline alone. That in turn is where you see these compounds form and precipitate into small sand-like hard crystals form that are shown in my photos. In response to your statement "Things like this happened years before ethanol was added to the gas." I strongly disagree. While we had fuel related problems, they were nothing like what ethanol blended fuels are today. 40 years ago, well before ethanol was anything other than ethly alcohol solvent that is commonly used to prep your arm for an injection (rubbing alcohol), I would see varnish and shellac form in fuel systems that were sitting for extended periods. I'm talking no engine start for many months and even years. This was common. You could pull the gas cap and take a whiff of the fuel and it smelled sour and you instantly knew that gas was a dark brown color and the line, the carburetor bowl, needle, seat, jets, and fuel tap were all going to be plugged with varnish. When you went after that with carb cleaner, it dissolved. Fast forward to ethanol blended fuels and now the timeline for trouble is SEVERELY shortened to a few months or less, and, the resultant "varnish" is now a crystalline compound coupled with varnish like gel; a deadly plugging combination. The tone of your challenge is understand reading in type, but it is confrontational in asking for "And what test and study's [SIC] did you do...". So I'll ask you to tell me what analytical procedures you'd like me to use and I'm happy to try to apply them. I'm chemist and work in the chemical industry so as long as your request for evidence beyond what I've already given is acceptable, I'll try to reply. Lastly, I do agree with a portion of your statement and only a portion: "...problems caused by their poor upkeep and lack of" People could do a lot of good for themselves, and adversely impact the small and antique engine mechanical trade severely if they simply shut down the fuel supply and ran their engines dry when they are about to have them hibernate for an extended period. I do not subscribe to the concept not run fuel systems dry because the gaskets dry out; I've had engines down for years that were dry of fuel and as soon as fuel was reintroduced it roared to life without incident. Also, ethanol fuels have dissolved more hoses and gaskets on me than have failed by being dry so material compatibility issues are paramount to understanding the breadth of issues brought on by these blended fuels. In summary, please know that ethanol is not the sole additive in fuels and while we refer to these blended fuels as ethanol, it's really a whole new combustion cocktail with oxygenators; lead scavengers; anti-knock agents; alcohols; various ether compounds (MBTE etc); dyes; and injector cleaners just to name a few. 45 years ago, we only had GM's 1920 invention of tetra-ethyl lead top end lubricant and octane booster and that was about it. So let's run that challenge flag up the pole on the basis of science if you're going to use it, and not conjecture and emotion. Fair enough?
Ethanol is bad from both energy efficiency and total CO2 emission standpoint but it's unlikely ethanol gas will go away any time soon regardless of ethanol lobbying. Ethanol is now used as an oxygenate replacing MBTE since MBTE was found to cause ground water pollution. Until a new, inexpensive oxygenate is developed, 10% ethanol gas will probably be the norm. And by the way, most 93 octane gas also contains ethanol.
So for proof of my knowledge of fuel systems, I am a Master Certified Car and Heavy Truck mechanic, certified in all areas of vehicle repair. Work on everything from a Volkswagen Beetle to a Freightliner.
I can assure you that ethanol is not good especially for 2 cycle engines in chain saws and etc. My Stihl chainsaw has a plastic gas cap that is getting exceedingly hard to screw into the tank because the threads (complete gas cap), have swollen from ethanol and it turns very hard.
Stihl sells a fuel with no ethanol for use in their chainsaws and weed whackers. It is about $8-9 dollars a QUART. A gallon would cost about $32.00
However a small airplane mechanic and I got to talking about ethanol in gasoline. The FAA will not let ethanol be used in aircraft fuel systems. So Aviation Gas (AVGAS), does not contain any ethanol. Come to find out, the general public can buy AVGAS too. Theres no restriction. He said all you have to do is go to a local airport, and ask someone where the pumps are to get it. Where I live, you just drive to the airport and insert your debit card in the pump and pump it into an appropriate container. It is about $5.00-$5.50 a gallon based on my location at the present time, but contains no ETHANOL. They apparently don't mind the public purchasing it either at that price per gallon.
It also has the unique ability to be used 2-3 years after you put it into a storage container and is just as potent as when you put it in (it doesn't get stale). So if you use your equipment seasonally, you don't need to purchase Stabil or drain your equipment. Many people would balk at the price being $1.00 to $2.00 more per gallon, but $25 worth would power a lot of chainsaws or mow your lawn all summer long at that price. Just like the old days with no ETHANOL.
quite a few repairs I have done and would believe the culprit to be the ethanol in the gas. cutting open fuel lines and seeing them rotted on the inside is something that shocked me the 1st time I saw it. then seeing the non metal parts in carbs wore out/ rotted/corroded away lead me to believe its the ethanol. but now im also wondering, after reading this thread and thinkin about it: not everyone has problems with it so im wondering if there could be something in the quality of the non metal parts playing in here( or even the metal parts). manufacturers are always lookin for ways to cut costs on producing their equipment, so im wonderin if maybe them parts are now a lower quality material now?
This is what I am saying.
It is more the poor quality of the parts.
Cars go years running ethanol and no fuel line rot.
So for proof of my knowledge of fuel systems, I am a Master Certified Car and Heavy Truck mechanic, certified in all areas of vehicle repair. Work on everything from a Volkswagen Beetle to a Freightliner.
I can assure you that ethanol is not good especially for 2 cycle engines in chain saws and etc. My Stihl chainsaw has a plastic gas cap that is getting exceedingly hard to screw into the tank because the threads (complete gas cap), have swollen from ethanol and it turns very hard.
Stihl sells a fuel with no ethanol for use in their chainsaws and weed whackers. It is about $8-9 dollars a QUART. A gallon would cost about $32.00
However a small airplane mechanic and I got to talking about ethanol in gasoline. The FAA will not let ethanol be used in aircraft fuel systems. So Aviation Gas (AVGAS), does not contain any ethanol. Come to find out, the general public can buy AVGAS too. Theres no restriction. He said all you have to do is go to a local airport, and ask someone where the pumps are to get it. Where I live, you just drive to the airport and insert your debit card in the pump and pump it into an appropriate container. It is about $5.00-$5.50 a gallon based on my location at the present time, but contains no ETHANOL. They apparently don't mind the public purchasing it either at that price per gallon.
It also has the unique ability to be used 2-3 years after you put it into a storage container and is just as potent as when you put it in (it doesn't get stale). So if you use your equipment seasonally, you don't need to purchase Stabil or drain your equipment. Many people would balk at the price being $1.00 to $2.00 more per gallon, but $25 worth would power a lot of chainsaws or mow your lawn all summer long at that price. Just like the old days with no ETHANOL.
No one, not even the car manufacturers, unless the fuel system is specifically rated to run on E85, recommends running anything more than E10 because of the corrosive properties of the ethanol and the damage it can do to hoses and orings. Other than that, and the decrease in fuel economy (many reported seeing as much as 2mpg less when gas stations began switching to the e10), I see no disadvantage to using e10. Straight gas might run better, but I've been using e10 in all mystuff, and all I do is treat it with some stabil over the winter and havn't had any issues.
I have worked with small engines all my life. My Dad owned an outdoor power equipment dealership and this topic came up quite often. Ethanol is not bad for a small engine. What is bad is when you allow ethanol blended fuel to sit in the tank or the carb for extended periods of time. The earlier post was on the money. Ethanol attracts condensation. Over time this can damage carburetors and internal engine parts. If you use your equipment everyday and run all he fuel out everyday you will not have any issues. Years ago, fuel lines could not hold up to ethanol blended fuels. This is not the case today.
If you are homeowner who only runs a few tanks a year through your equipment I would say you should buy fuel with no ethanol. If you use your equipment everyday it won't matter as long as you don't leave the fuel in while you store it over the winter. I myself am a typical homeowner now. I work on small engines for fun and to relax. I never drain my fuel over the winter, I only use the highest octane fuel I can find at the gas station and I never, ever have an issue starting my equipment come springtime. I made plenty of money each spring (and winter with snowblowers) from people who did not do this. I also worked with plenty of Lawn cutting services who only bought 87 octane blended fuel that never had an issue. This is a topic that will be debated for quite some time to come, I'm sure.
Another ethanol-bashing comment......have you noticed the increase in the price of meat & dairy products since the proliferation of ethanol gasoline. Information I have gotten from Tennessee farmers that I know is that the competitive pricing for maintaining "corn-fed" stock with the biofuel producers scooping up huge corn crops have filtered down to the price they have to charge to market their products because of increased feed costs. That......2-4mpg less fuel mileage economy, "debatable" adverse affects on fuel systems.....can someone please tell what is GOOD about ethanol???? And don't tell me "environmental benefits"....my 1995 Chevy truck passed emissions testing before ethanol and actually, the only time it failed was with a post-ethanol annual MARTA test to renew the tags(good ole SeaFoam cured that failed test). Also......have you noticed how many "gas treatment products" have come to market over the last few years(since ethanol became widespread) with the intention of helping your vehicle pass the emission tests(what's up with that:0)
Check your facts. What do you think happens to the corn that goes for biofuels? Let's just rule out that it is not human consumable corn. Secondly do you think that only ethanol is made from it and it goes to land waste? The cattle get the corn back with all the nutritional value. It is supplied outward as the ethanol plants grind corn to make ETOH. Their is so much more to it than what you're stating. Typical corn #2 yellow has an overabundance of starch. The ethanol plant is only after the starch. Because it goes through the process of cooking to make mash. Then to fermentation & distillation for making alcohol. The rest is separated out and sold back to the farmer at a competitive price. Not only that it is readily digestible for the cattle.
pturchen@gmail.com
Since you critiqued my post(aside from "adding" the "Another ethanol-bashing comment..." to it), I'll off a rebuttal. Soooooo, do you have friends that are farmers there in Colorado(hemp doesn't count:0) All I can say is the farmers I know here in Tennessee that raise cattle have told me the price of their feed for the cattle has increased since the introduction of ethanol(and I have no reason to think they would lie to me about that). Next....are you old enough to have used non-ethanol gasoline in your automobile/truck?? If so, are you getting the same gas mileage using E10 that you did in that same vehicle under the same driving conditions than you got using the pure gasoline??? Next.....Are you saving $ at the pump now over what you paid before E10 was introduced(or putting ANY additives to your E10 fuel)???? I'll let everybody else argue about the adverse effect on small engines(or engine-related components), but the three specific areas I mentioned are absolute facts. That's my story and I'm sticking to it:0)
P.S.
To all others, I consider those three disadvantages of ethanol...........yes, a PROBLEM.....and proof thereof:0)
What oil does everyone use?
Well this is quite a long thread and arguing for or against Ethanol is not going to convince anyone either way. However, old equipment is not designed to run on Ethanol period. Newest and greatest vehicles survive fine with it. Someone made the statement that Ethanol increases gas mileage and it doesn't. Gas mileage suffers a little with E85. Don't know if the price difference for E85 and the negative gas mileage reduction would offset the cheaper price or not. I have been trying to get my son to compute a tank of E85 and Regular. His mileage computer indicates a reduction of about 5-10 mpg with E85. Experts will agree that E85 is not as efficient as Gasoline but it is cheaper per gallon.
I know as a diesel mechanic that the Ultra low sulfur diesel fuels shrink rubber seals in injection systems and the older diesels start to leak diesel fuel externally from the injection pumps. A way to temporarily stop the leakage is to add about 1 gal of E85 to a 20 gallon tank of Diesel Fuel. The rubber o rings swell up a little and stop leaking for about 3 to 6 weeks. This causes no harm to the injection system. The way to cure the leaks permanently is to disassemble the injection pump and install new o rings and rubber seals. The experts have found that somehow, rubber parts that were used with sulfated diesel fuel and is now subject to ultra low sulfur diesel fuel causes the rubber to shrink. A pump overhauled with NEW rubber seals (same material), but uses only ultra low sulfur diesel fuel apparently is not subject to the leakage problem. But I know for a fact that E85 will temporarily fix the leakage by swelling the rubber seals back to normal for a WHILE.
Older machines using Ethanol in gasoline may have problems. Newer equipment designed to run on it won't, PERIOD.
Experts also will tell you not to run E85 in cars not designed for it as it will cause certain parts to fail as the parts weren't designed to be run on E85. So big question is: 10-15 percent Ethanol is ok, but 85 percent is not? I still think older equipment is not designed to run on either mixture mainly because of sealing problems.
E85 is newer and cars made for it boast better milage. Cars not designed for it are not going to get the milage benefit.. just like cars not made for e10 didn't get the milage boost. Manufacturers are telling people to not rib e85 because it makes cars not made for it run rough due to timing issues.... It would be like burning premium in a regular car.
I am wondering about the quality of parts issue. Engines are not made the same way they used to be but technology has come leaps and strides. According to my research newer plastics are of a better quality with a higher melting temp, less harmful chemicals (bpa), and lighter weight. Rubber seems to have taken a dip looks like most fuel lines and rubber is not even fully rubber anymore. It's a polyrubber reinforced with a netting. The amount of rubber in our rubber (including vehicle tires) is less than 30%. It's a mix of plastic and other by products that changes by manufacturer. I am having a hard time finding the ingredient lists for basic rubber fuel lines.
Wondering if these by products could be damaged by ethonol?
Very good! We grow plenty of corn here in Colorado. The expansion at high altitude doesn't add up. If you take a gas sample as is with 10% ethanol and a separate sample of 100% ethanol in two plastic containers. You will find mass expansion of the gas sample while the ethanol sample has no expansion. The first car built was designed to run on ethanol. It even had an adjustable carburetor in case you were running a blend. If Henry Ford could build a vehicle like this during his time then what is the issue now. Big oil will have you believe this that and the other. I can send over factual studies and testing that have proven the gas quality from refiners is far worse as the years have moved along. Because of that poor quality it is destroying fuel system components. The state of Colorado has plenty of feed yards around here that have thousands of head of cattle that absolutely love the feed. The price is competitive and have been feeding this for 10 years or better. Please tell me that a state such as Colorado who is a little behind the agriculture times is not doing better than Tennessee when it comes to farming & feeding. I can get you the information if you would like? I'm not here to start rants or raves about anything really. Yes I do work for the industry and it has proven itself more than enough. I just want to reach out to people like you and get the information in your hands. If anything get you more contacts for you to do your own investigative research.
pturchen@gmail.com
You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink.
Boy I'm glad that the lawn care specialists are such experts on the problems with todays fuels. You probably won't accept my proof, but it might help the average uneducated lawn specialists. About 4 years ago we started seeing equipment coming back four to five months after it has be in for routine tune-ups and complete check overs. Problems we were seeing, but confined to, surging, lean running engines, fuel line problems in two-cycle equipment. What we were finding was, gel in fuel bowls, corrosion of aluminum carb bodies, fuel lines and filters softening and breaking down in four cycle, hradening and breaking in two cycle. If you are in the repair business this is not how to keep customers. We tried everything that we knew to find what we were missing, doing wrong, or what is causing our problems. We had heard about people suggesting ethanol causing the problem and decided to change the fuel we used in the shop to non ethanol fuel and had a sticker made up to educate our customers which is put on every piece of equipment that leaves the shop. Since doing so we have cut our comebacks by over 90% and have also seen our business increase as more new customers are returning with different equipment which other dealers have not been able to repair. Most of them now use the non ethanol fuel in all of their small engine equipment and have told us that they are please with the way they running and now only see us for routine service.
Also, one of the small engine trade magazines just had an article by a VP at Briggs, who talked about the problems which engine manufacturers are having with the different fuels out there and what they are doing to find a solution.
Is this the proof you want, probably not, but for the average guy who reads this, it is a way which we have helped our customers and it only costs about $10.00 a year. (That's figuring 40 cents more per gallon for the customer who uses 25 gallons a year in their small engine equipment). To me that's cheap insurance.
For those that question whether we really have experience in our shop, there are four mechanics who have over 125 years in the service industry, with the lowest guy with only about 20. Certificates on our wall include those for working on 8 small engine manufacturers, 6 equipment manufactures ranging for saws to 140 HP tractors, so we are not a bunch of dumbos.
Is there a problem with ethanol in the small engine industry? It all depends on what you believe. I say yes and right now the solution for us is paying 40 cents more per gallon of gas.
Please. Remember to read my signature.
I don't have a picture(wish I did) but my walk behind mower wouldn't run after sitting for a couple of months. Took it to my local dealer and he pulled the carb off and put the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner. While it was running we looked at the bowl and it was full of white corn starch. He said it was from the ethanol. He was able to save the carb but the next year he had to replace it. And that was with using Stabil. Ask any small engine shop about ethanol gas and how it helps keep them busy.Nice story but you can not do a test like this with just one mower it would not prove anything.
You would need two mowers same make and model both brand new one with ethanol and one without. I bet they both end up the same.
Ok a man brings his blower to a pawn shop starts it to show it runs. They put it in the back room with gas still in it. 120 days later after he does not come back for it they put it on the floor to sell 5 people start it in the next month still on the old gas. Now you go in and buy it and add more has and it runs just fine for the next year. How can this be? I will tell how.
Because this is all made up bullshit from the mower builders to explain why the bellow grade cheap **** the use to build their mowers falls apart in a year.
I have mowers out back that sit for months I can go start any of them and cut the grass with no problems.
For many years we would go buy stuff to add to our gas well guess what it all has ethanol in it.
So still no one can prove that ethanol does any harm.
(( cowboy up and get over it ))