I have the 2800 hydro on my gravely and I went through this once when I got stuck. You have to pull them out and latch them in a small notch on the pin to the frame to disengage the trans not just pull out It was frustrating because my field of view was obstructed with a mower sunk in mud. Finally got lucky and noticed the tiny notch and once engaged it rolled easily
Pins on Toro MX5060 don't work
- Thread starter jcworks
- Start date
That's how my HyrdoGear transmissions work on my CZ42175. "IN" is Drive, "Out " is disengaged.
HOWEVER: This is a copy and paste from the Toro manual. Same as other posts. Mine are opposite! Go figure.
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Bertsmobile1, the pin is connected to an arm as you say. But there is not resistance at all that I can feel. It just slides back and forth as if not connected to anything.....both sides. Another thing l didnt mention is those pins are not straight. They are both in a rather oddly bent shape. Maybe supposed to be that way, l don't know. I
'll try to get under there and take a look again when l get home next week. l'll be back on here with what l see. Maybe l'll post a picture or video if this site allows it
'll try to get under there and take a look again when l get home next week. l'll be back on here with what l see. Maybe l'll post a picture or video if this site allows it
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StarTech and bertsmobile1, I have uploaded two short videos of this issue to Youtube so you can see what I'm seeing. Here they are. [This is the first time I've uploaded to Youtube. I hope I got it right]
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SamB frankly it has me baffled. The videos I posted (hope they are visible) shows what I'm going through. The machine moves whether the pin (levers) are in or out. The trans is never disengaged.
bertsmobile1
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The motion control simply moves the swash plate inside the transmission.
It is not spring loaded it just slides left right very smoothly
The resistance in the lap bar is provided by external springs &/or air cylinders
Go to Toro & download the service manual and the parts book
bertsmobile1
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In video 1 the lever you are moving is the bypass valve, not the brake
The brake is on the other side
There is no connection between the bypass lever & the brake
The brake is electronic & connected to the lap bars via a module which regularly breaks down .
with no load on the wheels they will rotate with the bypass open or closed
But with the bypass open you should be able to grab the wheel & stop it
With the bypass close you should not be able to stop them turning .
The brake is on the other side
There is no connection between the bypass lever & the brake
The brake is electronic & connected to the lap bars via a module which regularly breaks down .
with no load on the wheels they will rotate with the bypass open or closed
But with the bypass open you should be able to grab the wheel & stop it
With the bypass close you should not be able to stop them turning .
bertsmobile1, hmmmm. I can hear the brake engaging and disengaging when you turn the ignition on or off - or, move the steering control arms in or out. So I think the brake is working like it should. When I tried to roll it I turned the ignition to the ON position and I'd hear the brake; then push the steering arms in and you hear the brake again (disengaging). So, I don't know, if the module you mentioned was not working right I'd think I wouldn't hear the brake at all. I don't know. Anyway, I'm mowing with it.
bertsmobile1, you may be right about the printing error -- I don't know. I just know when I try to push it, it feels the same whether the pins or in or out. Its always been like this. Now, I'm an old guy but still you'd think it'd push pretty easy one way or the other. But of course I'm always doing this on grass too. I think next time I have it in the shop for something I'll make an attempt to have the guy come look at it while I'm there. See these two videos showing it.
I hope with the videos maybe you can see something I can't.