Old 1440 won’t crank

[Rivets]

According to the diagram for the unit you provided us with numbers for, you have the wrong switch. The switch you should have is part number 925-3163. If I am correct, this would be the cause of your problems. If you punch in this number into goggle, you will see that the terminal identification is different. Bert, would you check my conclusion?
B= Battery
M= Magneto
S= Start
G=Ground
A=Accessories
L=Lights

 

[Coelacanth64]

O.K., and so this is why I don’t do Farcebook, or Instacram, or Snapcrap. Next somebody will be body shaming, or picking on my ethnicity.
As a refresher,....I don’t do this for a living. I have no idea what a two pole switch is, but I’m SAS gonna find out.
Likewise, as to the switch. To the best of my knowledge this switch has never been replaced. But, my father might have needed to back in the ‘90’s. Regardless, it has worked fine for me for over 20 years.

No matter. I want to thank everyone for their help.
Did I start out by trying to guesstimate the cause and then throw parts at it? Yep. Why? Because I was hoping for a quick fix. Between work, taking care of my 83 year old mother in law with dementia, and trying to take the load off my four shot a day diabetic wife, yes...I was hoping this would go easy. Nope.
So, I’m going to use all of your information and see what results. I’ll take it from here.

But, you might want to keep an eye on the obits section of the local newspaper.

 

[AVB]

Now I do know how it is to take care of someone with dementia. It is a 24/7 job in itself or at it was for me. NO help from my brother at all. I had to give up on working during the time as all the help I had was the nurse's aid 3x a week. My thinking during that time wasn't very clear either. Total exhaustion with maybe 2 hours of sleep per day. It took me over a year to recoup after my mother's death.

I not trying to pick on you but you do need to try to follow instructions given if possible.

As what is a 2 pole switch. A double pole switch is referred as a double pole, single throw switch. It's just the combination of two SPST switches that are controlled simultaneously by one mechanism. It can also be a double throw switch combination or as in your PTO switch a double throw with a center position. The brake switch is one Normally Open switch and one Normally Closed switch. Now the PTO is a little more complicated as has a center position that is active ON to operate the PTO clutch.

Anyway I leaving the forum as I need to for my sake.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Using the information in posts # 30 & # 31.
Your machine is quite old any way older than anything I can cross refference
Make sure you know which terminal is M & G because if you accidentially send voltage down the M wire you will fry the chip in the magneto.
Once you are sure then test the key for the connections as per the chart previously posted
Bridge the B & S terminals at the plug with a short wire with a spade terminal at both ends
Then go to the PTO switch.
With the B & S bridged 2 wires at PTO switch will have 12V on them.
If not then the wire from the ignition switch & the PTO switch is broken .
If you do have 12V at 2 terminals on the PTO switch work out which is the clutch & which is the cranking circuit.
Pull the plug off the the PTO switch and jump the cranking circuit wires ( usually they will be coloured )
If the engine now cranks then the PTO switch is duff.
If not go down to the brake switch.
Again one wire should have 12V on it and when depressed it should pass the 12 to the terminal opposite it ( flat to flat not edge to edge ).
If yes then make another little jumper lead and check there is 12 V both sides.
You now need to follow that 12V to find the break in the wire.
This assumes that CC does not use a relay.

 

[AVB]

 

[Coelacanth64]

Folks,
The return of the village idiot.
I just came in, did not see the most recent replies prior. Sorry.
Thank you for the wiring schematic and all the directions.
As soon as I get my MIL’s dryer bearing replaced I’ll study what you sent.
Hopefully within the hour.

I do believe I’ve found my ignition switch, however.
Identical labeling and post positioning.
John Deere?



If so, I have no idea why?

But,....I have the switch and harness out of the dash to make it a one person job. I plugged the switch back in to the harness, turned the switch to the run position, and using the multimeter leads I contacted B to S1. Blew the fuse. The Brake pedal is depressed, brake switch warning light off. Replaced the fuse. Connected B to S2. Nothing. However, with the switch in the run position and the brake pedal down I hear a random clicking sound.

Feel free to express consternation.

 

[AVB]

The Stens 430-128 is not the same switch as Stens 430-404

 

[Coelacanth64]

The Stens 430-128 is not the same switch as Stens 430-404
View attachment 50779

Thank you, sir.
I‘ll try that when I get home.

 

[logert gogert]

Anyway I leaving the forum as I need to for my sake.

whoa, wait, why??????

 

[Coelacanth64]

Follow up. Maybe the solution?
I figured I’d look at the brake switch.
Discovered that the brake switch lever had partially broken from its mount. It wasn’t completely depressing the switch.
But, like the ignition switch, this part is very different physically from the OEM replacement.
Oh, well....maybe I’ll just hang the switch on the hood??

Addendum: The brake switch lever was attached to the brake shaft using a saddle mount with a bolt through the side facing the driver. The lever had broken about 3/4 through from the mount. Using a common Craftsman open ended wrench and PB Blaster I tried to remove the bolt. No excessive torque was applied. Bolt head sheared off. So much for the lever.
So, I removed the brake switch and its bracket and then removed the switch from the bracket. Pushing the switch manually and turning the key to start, the motor started normally. Good.
I considered replacing the switch lever. But, when I looked up the part the item in the schematic was different in construction and mounting method from what I have. O.K, my mower is a FrankenCadet. John Deere ignition switch? Brake switch lever from a Yugo??

Anyhow, I cut a notch in the body panel and move the switch outboard. Starts and runs like a charm now, but I guess I ruined any chance at collector value?? (Tongue firmly in cheek)



Regardless, I want to again thank everybody for their assistance with this, and their patience with me.
This forum is a god send.
We expect heavy snow for the next two days. This was completed just in time!