Old 1440 won’t crank

[Rivets]

Your reply was what we needed, but you must do the testing with a test light or VOM. Most PTO switches contain two individual switches, one to engage the clutch and a second safety switch to prevent the engine from starting when the clutch is engaged. You must test each switch and connecting wire individually. An assistant will definitely be helpful, as you will start at the key switch B Terminal, then S terminal and then tracing each wire and switch down to the solenoid. You a looking for a lose of 12 V, by either a bad switch or bad wire. This can easily take an hour to do so, even with help, depending on the size of the unit I’ve spent entire days solving electrical problems. What Bert meant is that you are now back to where we started, but with new parts installed and problem not solved. The #1 rule in solving electrical problems is “ NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING”, which you failed to do, when you started switching out parts after making an assumption. Review numbers 1-4 in the procedure I posted earlier before starting. We’ve all done this in the past and have learned the hard way, just like you are at this point, to stick to the steps or it will cost you time and money.

 

[AVB]

I don't think he is listening or understanding what needs to be done. That why I deleted the posts that I did that had the wiring diagram and other info. I don't think he would even to follow the diagram layout.

It is about as bad as the guy that wired up the lights on Farmall Super M here. I didn't think anyone could mess up connecting up two wires but he did.

So I am going back to not listening myself.

 

[Rivets]

We’ll get there, this will be just like solving an electrical problem, slow, steady and when things don’t make sense start over.

 

[Coelacanth64]

Rivets, first I want to thank you, Bert, Hammer and PT for the assistance. I’ve utilized this forum several times before with issues related to this mower and every time the problem has been solved. Obviously, I don’t do this for a living. But, I don’t mind learning, either.
To answer your suggestion, I’m testing everything with a multimeter. And, I’ll proceed as your directions indicate.
But, first I need to get back to the Farmall and finish their wiring.

 

[Rivets]

Farmall is easier to work on, because you can get at 95% of what you want.

 

[bertsmobile1]

No,
If you jump B to S and all of the safetys are working, the engine will spin
However IF IT HAS A FUEL SOLENOID it will not start because there will be no power to the fuel solenoid

 

[bertsmobile1]

Folks,
The battery is excellent. It’s almost new and kept on a minder.
What concerns me is that I jumped the two main positive terminals on the solenoid with a screw driver, like we used to do on cars back in the day. It pr@ctically melted the screwdriver. Short somewhere?
I was going to isolate the starter and try attaching a separate battery to it, to see if it would turn. Thoughts?

Stop & have a little think .
I can weld with a current of 40 amps
the starter draws around 200
So yes leave the screwdriver on there for long enough and you will melt it.

 

[bertsmobile1]

So now you pull the magneto wire of the magneto ( just to be safe )
and make a patch lead to jump between the B & S .
If the engine cranks then you switch is duff.
If it does not then the PTO or brake switch is duff.
And this includes th wires between then as it is not a new machine and what happns is copper wire work hardens from the vibrations then breaks right on the crimp,

 

[Coelacanth64]

Bert/Rivets,
Thanks.
Question....in the image I attached I can clearly see S, but I don’t see B? Or, am I mistaken? Can you tell me what the other letters represent?
Next, I need a clarification. This am I plugged the ignition switch back in. I then turned the key to the run position. The lights work, and the PTO clicks enabled/disabled. If I turn the switch to start the brake pedal light comes on, but if I depress the pedal the light goes off. Would that happen if the switch was bad?
Oh, and....yeah, I get the whole screwdriver across the terminals thing. I’m learning. Slow, but.....here’s hoping.

 

[AVB]

Come on...I just can't believe you are that out of it Coelacanth64. Bert and Rivets both are instructing you on exactly what to do and what is possibly wrong.

Maybe Bert and/or Rivets can get it through to you that the brake switch is a two pole switch so yes it can be bad as can the PTO switch with it being also a two pole switch, and of course possible bad wiring between. You must trace the wiring and do the electrical tests.

Plus somebody either got the wrong keyswitch to start with or it is mis-stamped even though it is connecting correctly on the start circuit as indicated by the brake light. Only an ohm out will tell if it is just mislabeled or the wrong switch.

SKU 725-3163 superseded to 925-3163.