Oils

[StarTech]

Note here you need to using a detergent oil when there is oil filter present and non detergent when none present.

Detergent help keep the particles suspended so the filter can do it job. And non detergent allows the particulars to settle at the lowest point of the crankcase.

 

[Skippydiesel]

Hi StarTech,

Detergents in oil - Wow! that takes me back to my youth when this was a hot topic.
It's been so many years since this debate, that I doubt you could find a regular oil that did not have detergent.
In my youth the debate centered around using oils for diesel engines in petrol engines. Diesel oils had high detergent and petrol low/nil.
The consensus , at the time, was if you start a petrol engine on diesel oil, all will be okay BUT if you use a diesel oil in an engine that has only use petrol oil, the detergents will clean out all the "guck" causing the engine to start using oil.
Without actually checking, I have the impression that most engine oils available today, are usable in both petrol & diesel engines (high detergent?)

 

[Ozcub]

No its the pot-holes that make it a slow route , plus the 50kmh entering The Oaks
Reading that post about detergent oils made me think of the old Castrol slogan "Oils aint Oils"
I use the Castrol Magnatec 10w40 in my Cub (Kohler motor) , Victa (B&S motor) Chipper again B&S motor without any dramas
I do change oil and filter on the Cub every 50 hours
Oz

 

[Skippydiesel]

Potholes - just another navigation hazard.
As for oil changes - These days my small equipment is lucky to do 50 hr/annum, so I just do an annual oil change/service, filter every second year. Tractor etc gets the oil/filter annually. Fuel filters are replaced "on condition" ie when unable to deliver enough fuel to get rated rpm.

 

[Ozcub]

Just did the big service engine and hydro , oils , filters etc , ready for another lot of mowing
With the rain and heat the area is turning tropical and the grass is growing so fast
With all the rain now using anti-rust instead of personal deodorant
Oz

 

[7394]

 

[RevB]

Yes! I realise this topic may have been discussed to death already but recommendations seem to change over time so I thought why not give it another go.

I live in Australia - climate range can go from 0C (rarely) - 47C (also rare). Mowing range mostly 21- 40C (grass growing).

In my small engines - push mowers/pumps/generator/ compressor, older ride on (B & S 17 hp) I use a straight, single grade, mineral oil W30 - never had a problem.

Put a new Kawasaki 22hp in my commercial zero turn - Mower shop recommended I use a semi synthetic 10W-40 with Zinc. Kawasaki manual says I can use the 10W- 30 or 40 OR the straight W30 BUT advises that fuel consumption will go up with the multigrade oils.

I am happy to put a semi synthetic multigrade in my "Kwaka" IF there a real benefit, otherwise will use the W30.

What is your advice?

These are flat tappets engines. Break-in is still part of the key to get long life. You want a conventional, single weight base oil with 1,500 to 1,800 parts-per-million, fast-acting ZDDP additive package that will immediately begin to create a protective layer of phosphorous and zinc on the critical components in the engine. You also want a near zero detergent value as that allows the ZDDP to do its job and all the parts wearing in like rings, cam lobes, piston skirts...anything subject to rubbing....to mate properly. Your W30 indicates "Winter" not "weight" as you'll notice that all the other numbers you provided have the W following the initial viscosity, not preceding it. After break-in is when you'll switch to a multi viscosity that is suitable for the temperature range the engine will be operating in.

Yes! I realise this topic may have been discussed to death already but recommendations seem to change over time so I thought why not give it another go.

I live in Australia - climate range can go from 0C (rarely) - 47C (also rare). Mowing range mostly 21- 40C (grass growing).

In my small engines - push mowers/pumps/generator/ compressor, older ride on (B & S 17 hp) I use a straight, single grade, mineral oil W30 - never had a problem.

Put a new Kawasaki 22hp in my commercial zero turn - Mower shop recommended I use a semi synthetic 10W-40 with Zinc. Kawasaki manual says I can use the 10W- 30 or 40 OR the straight W30 BUT advises that fuel consumption will go up with the multigrade oils.

I am happy to put a semi synthetic multigrade in my "Kwaka" IF there a real benefit, otherwise will use the W30.

What is your advice?

 

[borisdmower]

I’ve always ran multigrade, some of my engines are 25 years old. 40 years ago I was told by an Old mower mechanic change your oil at least once a year, and they will go forever, oh and clean the air intake.

 

[Ozcub]

I wash and re-oil my pre-cleaner after every mow , the book says 25 hours ,do not think so
Oz

 

[Skippydiesel]

Your W30 indicates "Winter" not "weight" as you'll notice that all the other numbers you provided have the W following the initial viscosity, not preceding it.

My mistake - as far as I know all oils sold in Australia are number (30) followed by W - we don't have much call for winter fuels/oils.