My Honda HRX217HYA manual says "10-30W for general use." Although from the diagram 5-30W may be used if you are mowing in temperatures below 40 degrees.:wink: No real problem with either of those weights, but I am using 10-30W because I generally mow in temperatures between 50-100 degrees.
Oil consideration
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My Honda HRX217HYA manual says "10-30W for general use." Although from the diagram 5-30W may be used if you are mowing in temperatures below 40 degrees.:wink: No real problem with either of those weights, but I am using 10-30W because I generally mow in temperatures between 50-100 degrees.
True, but this analogy has no real meaning. Look at it from different angle; mower oil change interval 'traveling' at full speed is set at lets say 50 Hours. A vehicle traveling at full speed...same run time of 50 Hrs x full speed of 100 mph = 5000 miles. Here is the kicker...off-road* guys change oil at around 500 miles!
*off-road (dusty environment) same as average lawn in Summer months.
TonyPrin
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I want to make certain my point's not lost in the analogies. Oil change intervals for vehicles and small engines are incomparable because vehicles have oil filters and most small engines don't. Vehicle oil change intervals are driven by time it takes motor oil to degrade - longer for synthetic than conventional. Small engine oil change intervals are based on the engine manufacturer's estimate of when the oil gets contaminated by tiny bits of metal and other stuff. This is highlighted by the fact many small engines require an initial oil change after only 5 hours.
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Re: Oil consideration: What about higher ambient temps, and older engines?
What about in higher ambient temperatures, and earlier design (ie 20 year old) engines?
From time to time I operate a Honda Harmony HRB215HXA mower in ambient temperatures of not less than 10C (50F) to not more than, but occasionaly up to, 40C (104F).
The engine on this mower is a GXV140. This engine model number is cast in raised letters into the block itself.
While I've owned this mower for 20 years, it has very low hours on it, as I do not have a lawn. I've used it to mow various elderly neighbor's lawns over the years, because I didn't want to have to dink around with their random brand mowers in disrepair when just trying to do them a favor out of kindness when they got sick or were recovering from a medical procedure, etc.
I have two different Honda produced Owner's manuals for GXV140 engines.
One manual recommends using straight weight SAE30 for all ambient temps above 10C, up to and including 40C.
This same manual states that the maximum ambient temperature for 10W-30 is limited to 30C (86F), and when I do mow, the ambient temps are often in excess of 86F (unfortunately).
The oil recommendations in this manual suggest that Honda did not believe that a 10W-30 functions the same as, or maintains the same 30 weight viscosity as, a straight 30 weight oil.
My second GXV140 engine manual has a more elaborate oil viscosity recommendation to ambient temperature chart. The chart is divided into separate straight weight and multi-weight categories.
For the multi-weight chart, within my ambient temperature range, Honda recommends a 20W-40 or a 20W-50. On the straight weight chart in my temperature range, Honda recommends SAE30 straight.
So, in two different engine manuals for the same engine, Honda did not recommend 10W30 in my temperature range on the charts . Honda did recommend 10W-30 "for general, all temperature use" in text, but then referred readers to consult the chart "when the average ambient temperature in your area is within the indicated range."
I have extra quarts of 10W-40 and 20W-50 on hand. I'm using the 10W-40 this spring, and this summer will switch to 20W-50. I have a lot of mowing to do this year. More rain than we've had in a decade.
What about in higher ambient temperatures, and earlier design (ie 20 year old) engines?
From time to time I operate a Honda Harmony HRB215HXA mower in ambient temperatures of not less than 10C (50F) to not more than, but occasionaly up to, 40C (104F).
The engine on this mower is a GXV140. This engine model number is cast in raised letters into the block itself.
While I've owned this mower for 20 years, it has very low hours on it, as I do not have a lawn. I've used it to mow various elderly neighbor's lawns over the years, because I didn't want to have to dink around with their random brand mowers in disrepair when just trying to do them a favor out of kindness when they got sick or were recovering from a medical procedure, etc.
I have two different Honda produced Owner's manuals for GXV140 engines.
One manual recommends using straight weight SAE30 for all ambient temps above 10C, up to and including 40C.
This same manual states that the maximum ambient temperature for 10W-30 is limited to 30C (86F), and when I do mow, the ambient temps are often in excess of 86F (unfortunately).
The oil recommendations in this manual suggest that Honda did not believe that a 10W-30 functions the same as, or maintains the same 30 weight viscosity as, a straight 30 weight oil.
My second GXV140 engine manual has a more elaborate oil viscosity recommendation to ambient temperature chart. The chart is divided into separate straight weight and multi-weight categories.
For the multi-weight chart, within my ambient temperature range, Honda recommends a 20W-40 or a 20W-50. On the straight weight chart in my temperature range, Honda recommends SAE30 straight.
So, in two different engine manuals for the same engine, Honda did not recommend 10W30 in my temperature range on the charts . Honda did recommend 10W-30 "for general, all temperature use" in text, but then referred readers to consult the chart "when the average ambient temperature in your area is within the indicated range."
I have extra quarts of 10W-40 and 20W-50 on hand. I'm using the 10W-40 this spring, and this summer will switch to 20W-50. I have a lot of mowing to do this year. More rain than we've had in a decade.
bertsmobile1
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The reason for using multi grades is to make it easier to start cold, no more no less.
The smallest number is the base grade of the oil
So a 0W 50 is 0 grade oil with fortifiers to bring it to the same viscosity as 50wt oil at the same temperature.
A 5w 50 oil is 5 wt oil with fortifiers to bring it to the same viscosity as 50wt oil at the same temperature.
a 10w 50 oil is 10 wt oil with fortifiers to bring it to the same viscosity as 50wt oil at the same temperature.
A 5w 40 oil is 5 wt oil with fortifiers to bring it to the same viscosity as 40wt oil at the same temperature.
Got the picture .
The higher number is the viscosity at OPERATING temperature and the oil does not get thicker as it gets hotter, it simply does not thin down as much as a strait mono grade oil.
Thinner oils will tend to leak more and may not be able to maintain a continious oil film between the crank & the bushings at elevated temperatures.
Thicker oils may not be able to penetrate the space between the crank & the bushings when cold.
Thus all the recommended oil grade will overlap each other.
If you have a residential block and at most mow for an hour or so, go for the lower grade.
If you have a big block or use the mower all day long, go for the higher grades.
If you keep 20W50 for your car and am happy to change it every season at the end of the season, use that and save keeping multiple oils.
The smallest number is the base grade of the oil
So a 0W 50 is 0 grade oil with fortifiers to bring it to the same viscosity as 50wt oil at the same temperature.
A 5w 50 oil is 5 wt oil with fortifiers to bring it to the same viscosity as 50wt oil at the same temperature.
a 10w 50 oil is 10 wt oil with fortifiers to bring it to the same viscosity as 50wt oil at the same temperature.
A 5w 40 oil is 5 wt oil with fortifiers to bring it to the same viscosity as 40wt oil at the same temperature.
Got the picture .
The higher number is the viscosity at OPERATING temperature and the oil does not get thicker as it gets hotter, it simply does not thin down as much as a strait mono grade oil.
Thinner oils will tend to leak more and may not be able to maintain a continious oil film between the crank & the bushings at elevated temperatures.
Thicker oils may not be able to penetrate the space between the crank & the bushings when cold.
Thus all the recommended oil grade will overlap each other.
If you have a residential block and at most mow for an hour or so, go for the lower grade.
If you have a big block or use the mower all day long, go for the higher grades.
If you keep 20W50 for your car and am happy to change it every season at the end of the season, use that and save keeping multiple oils.
Yup, I do exactly that and it's absolutely the most important thing regarding engine oil. After the initial 5 hour break-in, Honda says to change the oil after 50 hours of run time. I mow 30+ weeks a year at about an hour each time. No point in stretching that oil into the start of the next season. Oil is cheap and easy to replace. With my Honda mower, I don't have to crawl under anything and there isn't even a filter to deal with. :biggrin:
B&S now says "with our new line of engines there is no need to change oil for 12 years...but it won't hurt if you do" they say. :laughing:
It's like with the Japanese flag...some say its the 'rising Sun' others say its a meatball. No, that didn't come out right. Never mind!
It's like with the Japanese flag...some say its the 'rising Sun' others say its a meatball. No, that didn't come out right. Never mind!
TonyPrin
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B&S now says "with our new line of engines there is no need to change oil for 12 years...but it won't hurt if you do" they say. :laughing:
It's like with the Japanese flag...some say its the 'rising Sun' others say its a meatball. No, that didn't come out right. Never mind!
B&S EX and EXi engines have been around since (I think) 2005. Both engines never need oil changes for the life of the engine, although both require checking the level and adding as needed.
These engines use an air filter and deign features aimed at keeping dirt away - I'm skeptical. It seems to me that mowers, in particular, can easily get very dirty and keeping that dirt out of the carburetor is difficult over a number of years.
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