Dang factory defect. Stress cracks from stamping the cup, they literally stretched the metal too much then they heavily painted over it. The paint held until the oil got up to operating temp. It happened right the oil change and no way my hand would have crack the filter cup. That could have been one heck of an expensive engine replacement.
Thanks to using Moly additive I was able to save the engine as the post should have read nearly "lost" the engine. My oil pressure was down to 20 psi going down the road after replacing the missing oil and bad filter. I had thought I blew a rear main seal but the UV dye traced the problem to the filter. Now the Moly has restored my pressure back to 50-60 psi going the road using 5w30 semi synthetic oil.
And no I am not running Slick 50. At the time I was using the 10W30 conventional oil the manual called for. Currently running Triax 5W30 API GF-5/SN, Synthetic Blend but it due for an oil change at 330K which just it passed. The problem is now that the Triax 5w30 isn't listed anymore on Amazon and I would need to switch 5W40 Full synthetic to keep the Moly additive.but $115 is not bad for 5 gallons.