You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Export thread
New Kholer Synthetic oil for Kohler engine in B27i
#1
F
footballfan33
F
footballfan33
Reading through the 2021 manual, the B27i is now coming from the factory with Full Synthetic Kohler Pro 10W-50 motor oil (the engine is a Kohler 27 horse fuel injected model). The specs say you can go 300 hours between oil changes. The filter plus 2Q of oil are being sold at Tractor Supply for $45.
What are everyone's thoughts on following those recommendations?
What are everyone's thoughts on following those recommendations?
#2
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
I usually change oil & filter in my equipment once year, unless i get to the required hours first.
#4
StarTech
StarTech
Apparently Kohler is trying to force the customers to buy the 2 qt plus filter Kit (P/N 25 850 02-S) as they have both the 1 qt (P/N 25 850 02-S) and the 5 qt (P/N 25 850 02-S) listed as NLA. Personally I would just use the Kawasaki Full Synthetic 15W50 with Zinc additive, 1 qt (P/N 99969-6501) or the 5 qt (P/N 99969-6502) which lists at a more reasonable price and use a high quality filter; under $10 a qt.
#5
S
slomo
slomo
S
slomo
Indefinitely, keep the cap on it.Good to know. What is a the shelf life of synthetic oil?
slomo
#6
S
slomo
S
slomo
If you want top tier oil get Redline. They make real deal, full blown synthetic oil. And a Wix/NAPA filter. Or a Purolator if you can get one.
slomo
slomo
#7
StarTech
StarTech
The last new Purolator filter about cost me my Silverado engine. It had two stress crack in the filter can from the factory. I lost nearly 4 qts on a 40 mile round trip to a local town. And Purolator would not even honor their warranty so I no longer buy them.
#8
S
slomo
Sorry to hear about your issue. You should of had 2 quarts in the pan. Are you not running Slick 50? What happened to the filter?
slomo
S
slomo
My last Purolator did a great job, far as I know.The last new Purolator filter about cost me my Silverado engine. It had two stress crack in the filter can from the factory. I lost nearly 4 qts on a 40 mile round trip to a local town. And Purolator would not even honor their warranty so I no longer buy them.
Sorry to hear about your issue. You should of had 2 quarts in the pan. Are you not running Slick 50? What happened to the filter?
slomo
#9
StarTech
StarTech
Dang factory defect. Stress cracks from stamping the cup, they literally stretched the metal too much then they heavily painted over it. The paint held until the oil got up to operating temp. It happened right the oil change and no way my hand would have crack the filter cup. That could have been one heck of an expensive engine replacement.
Thanks to using Moly additive I was able to save the engine as the post should have read nearly "lost" the engine. My oil pressure was down to 20 psi going down the road after replacing the missing oil and bad filter. I had thought I blew a rear main seal but the UV dye traced the problem to the filter. Now the Moly has restored my pressure back to 50-60 psi going the road using 5w30 semi synthetic oil.
And no I am not running Slick 50. At the time I was using the 10W30 conventional oil the manual called for. Currently running Triax 5W30 API GF-5/SN, Synthetic Blend but it due for an oil change at 330K which just it passed. The problem is now that the Triax 5w30 isn't listed anymore on Amazon and I would need to switch 5W40 Full synthetic to keep the Moly additive.but $115 is not bad for 5 gallons.
Thanks to using Moly additive I was able to save the engine as the post should have read nearly "lost" the engine. My oil pressure was down to 20 psi going down the road after replacing the missing oil and bad filter. I had thought I blew a rear main seal but the UV dye traced the problem to the filter. Now the Moly has restored my pressure back to 50-60 psi going the road using 5w30 semi synthetic oil.
And no I am not running Slick 50. At the time I was using the 10W30 conventional oil the manual called for. Currently running Triax 5W30 API GF-5/SN, Synthetic Blend but it due for an oil change at 330K which just it passed. The problem is now that the Triax 5w30 isn't listed anymore on Amazon and I would need to switch 5W40 Full synthetic to keep the Moly additive.but $115 is not bad for 5 gallons.
#10
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
Anything but a Fram!?
Many years ago i was using a moly additive in my 1988 dodge caravan with the 3,0L Mitsubishi engine. In about a year the engine had stuck rings. According to the nechanic at the dealership the engine had very tight tolerances between the rings and grooves and the moly additive causes the rings to stick. BS? I don't know. They fixed it under warranty but was told not to use the moly again or it wouldn't be fixed under warranty.
Back in high school i used to use 3 or 4 cans of "Motor Honey" in my Galaxie with a ragged out 352 every oil change.
Many years ago i was using a moly additive in my 1988 dodge caravan with the 3,0L Mitsubishi engine. In about a year the engine had stuck rings. According to the nechanic at the dealership the engine had very tight tolerances between the rings and grooves and the moly additive causes the rings to stick. BS? I don't know. They fixed it under warranty but was told not to use the moly again or it wouldn't be fixed under warranty.
Back in high school i used to use 3 or 4 cans of "Motor Honey" in my Galaxie with a ragged out 352 every oil change.
#11
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
this the triax you were looking for? https://www.amazon.com/Triax-Synergy-Synthetic-Compatible-EcoBoost/dp/B07YK1J3DGDang factory defect. Stress cracks from stamping the cup, they literally stretched the metal too much then they heavily painted over it. The paint held until the oil got up to operating temp. It happened right the oil change and no way my hand would have crack the filter cup. That could have been one heck of an expensive engine replacement.
Thanks to using Moly additive I was able to save the engine as the post should have read nearly "lost" the engine. My oil pressure was down to 20 psi going down the road after replacing the missing oil and bad filter. I had thought I blew a rear main seal but the UV dye traced the problem to the filter. Now the Moly has restored my pressure back to 50-60 psi going the road using 5w30 semi synthetic oil.
And no I am not running Slick 50. At the time I was using the 10W30 conventional oil the manual called for. Currently running Triax 5W30 API GF-5/SN, Synthetic Blend but it due for an oil change at 330K which just it passed. The problem is now that the Triax 5w30 isn't listed anymore on Amazon and I would need to switch 5W40 Full synthetic to keep the Moly additive.but $115 is not bad for 5 gallons.
#12
S
slomo
slomo
S
slomo
Dog, you don't need all that fancy mega star extreme ultra grade oil mess. Just go to wallys and get some Supertech 10w-30 in that old hooptie. LOL Probably shouldn't be running that molly mess in a cat convert engine anyway. Let me guess, the cat/s are removed?Dang factory defect. Stress cracks from stamping the cup, they literally stretched the metal too much then they heavily painted over it. The paint held until the oil got up to operating temp. It happened right the oil change and no way my hand would have crack the filter cup. That could have been one heck of an expensive engine replacement.
Thanks to using Moly additive I was able to save the engine as the post should have read nearly "lost" the engine. My oil pressure was down to 20 psi going down the road after replacing the missing oil and bad filter. I had thought I blew a rear main seal but the UV dye traced the problem to the filter. Now the Moly has restored my pressure back to 50-60 psi going the road using 5w30 semi synthetic oil.
And no I am not running Slick 50. At the time I was using the 10W30 conventional oil the manual called for. Currently running Triax 5W30 API GF-5/SN, Synthetic Blend but it due for an oil change at 330K which just it passed. The problem is now that the Triax 5w30 isn't listed anymore on Amazon and I would need to switch 5W40 Full synthetic to keep the Moly additive.but $115 is not bad for 5 gallons.
slomo
#13
StarTech
And as for Walmart I haven't brought a single thing from them in over a year other than my birdseed after they refused to my business sales tax exemption certificate. Kroger is getting all the groceries sales and Amazon is getting most of the rest of my business that would gone to Walmart. I know my $5K in yearly purchases doesn't matter much to them but it makes me feel better by sending it somewhere else.
StarTech
Hell no the catalytic convertor isn't removed. And I have been running the Moly in the engine since 2015 in that 2000 Chevy Silverado S1500. Considering I brought the PU when it had 180K and now has 320+K now I don't think it going to cause a problem.Dog, you don't need all that fancy mega star extreme ultra grade oil mess. Just go to wallys and get some Supertech 10w-30 in that old hooptie. LOL Probably shouldn't be running that molly mess in a cat convert engine anyway. Let me guess, the cat/s are removed?
slomo
And as for Walmart I haven't brought a single thing from them in over a year other than my birdseed after they refused to my business sales tax exemption certificate. Kroger is getting all the groceries sales and Amazon is getting most of the rest of my business that would gone to Walmart. I know my $5K in yearly purchases doesn't matter much to them but it makes me feel better by sending it somewhere else.
#14
B
Born2Mow
B
Born2Mow
Tractor Supply sells Purolator brand filters in my area. Their blue filters are higher rated than the ones colored red, but they are all top rated.And a Wix/NAPA filter. Or a Purolator if you can get one.
#15
S
slomo
slomo
S
slomo
I too hate wallymart. Only use them for motor oil. Can't beat cheapest price in town. Other than that, screw them. Most everything else is not a good deal anymore. They know it and raise their prices up. Other stores have similar or better pricing. Aldis Grocery here in OKC is AWESOME!!!Hell no the catalytic convertor isn't removed. And I have been running the Moly in the engine since 2015 in that 2000 Chevy Silverado S1500. Considering I brought the PU when it had 180K and now has 320+K now I don't think it going to cause a problem.
And as for Walmart I haven't brought a single thing from them in over a year other than my birdseed after they refused to my business sales tax exemption certificate. Kroger is getting all the groceries sales and Amazon is getting most of the rest of my business that would gone to Walmart. I know my $5K in yearly purchases doesn't matter much to them but it makes me feel better by sending it somewhere else.
slomo
#16
S
slomo
slomo
S
slomo
Purolator makes a Tech version I think it's called. It's their workshop slash garage filter line. Says made in the USA, SHOCKED. I use them no problems. Couple bucks cheaper per filter. Better than any Fram.......Tractor Supply sells Purolator brand filters in my area. Their blue filters are higher rated than the ones colored red, but they are all top rated.
slomo
#17
S
slomo
slomo
S
slomo
Thought molly was removed because of cat converts. All the good anti-wear junk like zinc and such. Poor flat tappet cams......Hell no the catalytic convertor isn't removed. And I have been running the Moly in the engine since 2015 in that 2000 Chevy Silverado S1500. Considering I brought the PU when it had 180K and now has 320+K now I don't think it going to cause a problem.
And as for Walmart I haven't brought a single thing from them in over a year other than my birdseed after they refused to my business sales tax exemption certificate. Kroger is getting all the groceries sales and Amazon is getting most of the rest of my business that would gone to Walmart. I know my $5K in yearly purchases doesn't matter much to them but it makes me feel better by sending it somewhere else.
slomo
#18
S
slomo
S
slomo
You guys not using Slick 50 are missing out. Don't even have to put any oil in the pan anymore. Sucker is so slick, when you turn the key off, the engine keeps running. At least another 80hp at the tire tread. LOL 
slomo
slomo
#19
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
It is sad that the oil manufacturers don't know how to make good oil and people need to buy all of these magic oil additives to make their engine last. You would think there would be some type of organization that could test oil and see if it is good enough for a specific type of engine. It would be nice if they could put some kind of marking on the bottle showing what standards the oil met. But i guess we will just have to buy whatever oil and then buy some latest and greatest new and improved super duper oil additive to make it good enough. You would have thought that by now they could actually make oil good enough to not need to add stuff to it.
A little evening sarcasm to start an oil thread fight.??
A little evening sarcasm to start an oil thread fight.??
#20
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
It is sad that the oil manufacturers don't know how to make good oil and people need to buy all of these magic oil additives to make their engine last. You would think there would be some type of organization that could test oil and see if it is good enough for a specific type of engine. It would be nice if they could put some kind of marking on the bottle showing what standards the oil met. But i guess we will just have to buy whatever oil and then buy some latest and greatest new and improved super duper oil additive to make it good enough. You would have thought that by now they could actually make oil good enough to not need to add stuff to it.
A little evening sarcasm to start an oil thread fight.??
#21
StarTech
StarTech
Most name brand oil does does put the basic spec info on the container. Now it is up to us to look these specs details up and to match to our engine requirements. In my case the Moly is use to fill in gaps on bearing surfaces and scoring on the cylinder walls. But considering that engine has 330K miles on it there bound to have been some wear even with the best oils if used.
I personally don't it previous history but I do know some idiot or (deleted text) RTVed the intake manifold and didn't wait for it to cure properly before adding the antifreeze. I finally got it stopped for a little while using an aluminum stop leak. Just got to get time to pull the intake and do the job right.
I personally don't it previous history but I do know some idiot or (deleted text) RTVed the intake manifold and didn't wait for it to cure properly before adding the antifreeze. I finally got it stopped for a little while using an aluminum stop leak. Just got to get time to pull the intake and do the job right.
#22
cpurvis
cpurvis
I don't know about gas engines, but it has come to the point that the API classification is no longer enough to guarantee that an oil meets a diesel engine's requirements. Both Ford and Cummins have their own specs and it they're not printed on the oil container, that oil is not to be used in their engines, regardless of the API rating it carries.
#23
B
Born2Mow
You should be using Slicker 60 at a minimum, or the new Slickest 70.
B
Born2Mow
That is so ancient !! Get with the program, Slomo.You guys not using Slick 50 are missing out. Don't even have to put any oil in the pan anymore. Sucker is so slick, when you turn the key off, the engine keeps running. At least another 80hp at the tire tread. LOL
You should be using Slicker 60 at a minimum, or the new Slickest 70.
#25
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
Always fun to have "discussions" ? about oil or filters or spark plugs or fuels. At least they are more civil here than the ones on Arborsite. Some of those guys bring weapons. ??. On one forum i thought two guys were really going to fight it out over who made the best hand tools. Got to love the fanboys.
#26
cpurvis
Back then, Sparta was considered one of the cheaper tool brands on the market.
I doubt if you can even buy one of equal or better quality now.
Let the mud fly.
Back on topic: All oil is good; some is better than others. My brand is better than your brand.
cpurvis
I was given a 3/8" Sparta ratchet and socket set a LONG time ago. I still have it.Always fun to have "discussions" ? about oil or filters or spark plugs or fuels. At least they are more civil here than the ones on Arborsite. Some of those guys bring weapons. ??. On one forum i thought two guys were really going to fight it out over who made the best hand tools. Got to love the fanboys.
Back then, Sparta was considered one of the cheaper tool brands on the market.
I doubt if you can even buy one of equal or better quality now.
Let the mud fly.
Back on topic: All oil is good; some is better than others. My brand is better than your brand.
#28
J
Joed756
J
Joed756
First of all, Kohler doesn't make oil, synthetic or fossil, so buying Kohler oil is just adding a mark-up on the price.. 300 hours isn't a long time, I think I'd be OK with that because syn. oil does not break down. Years ago a test was performed with Mobil 1 vs standard Mobil oil using NYC taxis. I don't remember how many miles they got on the regular oil before lubricity failed due to molecular breakdown, but the test was stopped after 1 million hours and there was no change to any of the measured parameters of the Mobil 1. I've stuck with synthetics ever since. Remember, every time you use a wrench on any machine you introduce a failure mode that didn't exist before, such as a filter with stress cracks. For that reason I rarely perform any maintenance early.
#29
J
Joed756
J
Joed756
My mom worked in a factory making off-set screwdrivers. At the end of the assembly line was a stamp. Sometimes that stamp was fitted with "Craftsman", sometimes "General", sometimes others.I was given a 3/8" Sparta ratchet and socket set a LONG time ago. I still have it.
Back then, Sparta was considered one of the cheaper tool brands on the market.
I doubt if you can even buy one of equal or better quality now.
Let the mud fly.
Back on topic: All oil is good; some is better than others. My brand is better than your brand.
#30
S
slomo
300 hours is roughly 12 times more than a typical push mower sees in a season. Push mowers hold less oil than a 0 turn. Plus 0 turns mostly run filters. Still these are air cooled and run pretty hot. It takes about a minute to reach full operating temp.
So called synthetic oil will break down just like dino oil. Don't know where you heard this misinformation from. It's not so much the base stock but the additive pack is what suffers. Every oil out today has some form of additives.
That Mobile 1 test was a sales gimmick. 1 million hours......... COME ON MAN (Sleepy Joe Biden). Won't even go into that so called "test".
slomo
S
slomo
I would like to think, buying Kohler oil, it would be formulated for their engines, regardless who makes it. They put their name on it so any failures would look bad on their part.First of all, Kohler doesn't make oil, synthetic or fossil, so buying Kohler oil is just adding a mark-up on the price.. 300 hours isn't a long time, I think I'd be OK with that because syn. oil does not break down. Years ago a test was performed with Mobil 1 vs standard Mobil oil using NYC taxis. I don't remember how many miles they got on the regular oil before lubricity failed due to molecular breakdown, but the test was stopped after 1 million hours and there was no change to any of the measured parameters of the Mobil 1. I've stuck with synthetics ever since. Remember, every time you use a wrench on any machine you introduce a failure mode that didn't exist before, such as a filter with stress cracks. For that reason I rarely perform any maintenance early.
300 hours is roughly 12 times more than a typical push mower sees in a season. Push mowers hold less oil than a 0 turn. Plus 0 turns mostly run filters. Still these are air cooled and run pretty hot. It takes about a minute to reach full operating temp.
So called synthetic oil will break down just like dino oil. Don't know where you heard this misinformation from. It's not so much the base stock but the additive pack is what suffers. Every oil out today has some form of additives.
That Mobile 1 test was a sales gimmick. 1 million hours......... COME ON MAN (Sleepy Joe Biden). Won't even go into that so called "test".
slomo
#31
A
awkerper
A
awkerper
If you know what the specifications are for the oil, such as the API service rating or any other special additives that need to be in it, then any brand of oil that meets those specifications should be fine. If you do not know the details of the specifications, then I would follow what the manufacturer suggests to be on the safe side, especially during the warranty period.Reading through the 2021 manual, the B27i is now coming from the factory with Full Synthetic Kohler Pro 10W-50 motor oil (the engine is a Kohler 27 horse fuel injected model). The specs say you can go 300 hours between oil changes. The filter plus 2Q of oil are being sold at Tractor Supply for $45.
What are everyone's thoughts on following those recommendations?
#32
F
fixit1ddh
F
fixit1ddh
Yea My Son's blazer blew the rear seal. It had slick 50 in it, made it 200 feet before the 4.3 locked up tight on mains & spun. SNAKE OIL!You guys not using Slick 50 are missing out. Don't even have to put any oil in the pan anymore. Sucker is so slick, when you turn the key off, the engine keeps running. At least another 80hp at the tire tread. LOL
slomo
#33
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
i had Kohler CV16 with hydraulic lifters, i changed the oil with Castrol 10W30, lifters started ticking. Went back with Kohler Synthetic blend, 10w30, lifters stopped ticking.I would like to think, buying Kohler oil, it would be formulated for their engines, regardless who makes it. They put their name on it so any failures would look bad on their part.
300 hours is roughly 12 times more than a typical push mower sees in a season. Push mowers hold less oil than a 0 turn. Plus 0 turns mostly run filters. Still these are air cooled and run pretty hot. It takes about a minute to reach full operating temp.
So called synthetic oil will break down just like dino oil. Don't know where you heard this misinformation from. It's not so much the base stock but the additive pack is what suffers. Every oil out today has some form of additives.
That Mobile 1 test was a sales gimmick. 1 million hours......... COME ON MAN (Sleepy Joe Biden). Won't even go into that so called "test".
slomo
#34
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
That wasn't lifter ticking. It was a blown head gasket?i had Kohler CV16 with hydraulic lifters, i changed the oil with Castrol 10W30, lifters started ticking. Went back with Kohler Synthetic blend, 10w30, lifters stopped ticking.
#35
Hammermechanicman
My oil is better than your oil.
Back buried in the barn i found a case of Castrol GTX 10w 40 that is SF rated. I wonder how many years that stuff has been back there? I have about a dozen bottles of boat oil that is TCW2 rated and a few before the TCW rating. Gotta quit being a packrat.
Hammermechanicman
I have a 1/2" ratchet i got from my father wben he worked as a millwright for the CCC during the depression. It is Indestro Super brand. Beats the crap out of the Crapsman ratchets i have.I was given a 3/8" Sparta ratchet and socket set a LONG time ago. I still have it.
Back then, Sparta was considered one of the cheaper tool brands on the market.
I doubt if you can even buy one of equal or better quality now.
Let the mud fly.
Back on topic: All oil is good; some is better than others. My brand is better than your brand.
My oil is better than your oil.
Back buried in the barn i found a case of Castrol GTX 10w 40 that is SF rated. I wonder how many years that stuff has been back there? I have about a dozen bottles of boat oil that is TCW2 rated and a few before the TCW rating. Gotta quit being a packrat.
#36
S
slomo
I know, that's all I run in my Olds-mo-Dodge with 320k miles......... Forgot to mention it's on its 6th engine and 12th starter. LOL ?
slomo
S
slomo
As you found first hand, Castrol is NOT what it used to be. Now days it's at the bottom of the pile.i had Kohler CV16 with hydraulic lifters, i changed the oil with Castrol 10W30, lifters started ticking. Went back with Kohler Synthetic blend, 10w30, lifters stopped ticking.
I know, that's all I run in my Olds-mo-Dodge with 320k miles......... Forgot to mention it's on its 6th engine and 12th starter. LOL ?
slomo
#37
F
footballfan33
F
footballfan33
The b27i is a Walker zero turn with a 27 horse, fuel injected, Kohler engine, not a push mower. Does that change your analysis?I would like to think, buying Kohler oil, it would be formulated for their engines, regardless who makes it. They put their name on it so any failures would look bad on their part.
300 hours is roughly 12 times more than a typical push mower sees in a season. Push mowers hold less oil than a 0 turn. Plus 0 turns mostly run filters. Still these are air cooled and run pretty hot. It takes about a minute to reach full operating temp.
So called synthetic oil will break down just like dino oil. Don't know where you heard this misinformation from. It's not so much the base stock but the additive pack is what suffers. Every oil out today has some form of additives.
That Mobile 1 test was a sales gimmick. 1 million hours......... COME ON MAN (Sleepy Joe Biden). Won't even go into that so called "test".
slomo
#38
F
footballfan33
Would the oil specs be in one of the manuals? And can one trust the specs provided by oil manufacturers?
F
footballfan33
My thought is that I would have to contact Kohler directly. But I didn’t read all the literature that came with the Walker yet. I was just trying to accumulate the oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, etc that I would need in the first 2-3 years of ownership.If you know what the specifications are for the oil, such as the API service rating or any other special additives that need to be in it, then any brand of oil that meets those specifications should be fine. If you do not know the details of the specifications, then I would follow what the manufacturer suggests to be on the safe side, especially during the warranty period.
Would the oil specs be in one of the manuals? And can one trust the specs provided by oil manufacturers?
#39
B
bertsmobile1
You seem to have a picked up a few misconceptions about exactly what synthetic or semi synthetic oil really are .
Oil is a complex blend of hydrocarbons.
Some are gas some are liquids & some are solids .
The normal refining process just removes bits till you end up with what you can use , which might include a pile of bits you don't really want but make little difference to the operation of the fuel / oil / wax / gas / tar that you are trying to make
Synthetic processing does the same thing the opposite way by braking the crude down into all of its parts then blend only the bits you want to be there back together.
Now if you used the synthetic or a pure synthetic then some of its properties are substantially enhanced over a standard refined oil.
However that does not happen because synthetics, just like normal refined oils does not have all of the desired properties so a package of addatives has to be added or it would go off a lot faster than standard oils because it is in a substantially higher energy state.
Just the same way as iron, or copper corrode because they are in a higher energy state than their oxides .
The big difference is standard oil is at a purity level of around 98% , semi synthetics are 99% & fully synthetics are 99.9% pure .
Just like gold, 98% is expensive, 99 % is more expensive & 99,9% is even more expensive & if your pockets are deep enough or your research budget is big enough you can get 99.99% and 99.999% .
Any way synthetic still break down & oxadise just like standard oils do and every other refined material, it is the first law of thermodynamics & to date is yet to be proven wrong .
Fully synthetics are a slightly different case as they are made by reacting one of the gasses , that has been removed from crude oil during refining and then reacting with ammonia to make an oil , some are made from natural gas that has been refined but the process is the same.
Fully synthetics start life a bit cleaner than semi synthetics but again are useless for use in an engine without the addative package.
And this package will be consumed during use rendering the oil useless just the same as it happens with standard oils , but because the oil has less impurities in it , the oxidization &/or decomposition takes longer.
Now synthetics cost 3 to 4 times more than standard oils to make so a lot of total tosh has been published by oil companies to make people believe that they are worth the extra money.
In 90% of the uses there is no advantage whatsoever , and mowers are the perfect example of this so using synthetics in a mower is throwing money away.
Then again people will happily buy lottery tickets .
In a hydro drive their superiour properties & in particular superiour cleanliness is a big advantage .
Because of the brain washing that the oil companies have done , and don't forget the "fakes" who join forums like this to sing the praises of synthetics , and on face book & you tube and anywhere else where the brain dead easily brainwashed congregate , engine makers have to specify synthetic oils to "prove" that their engine is better than every one elses .
IF you are building a high precision high performance engine that is trying to extract 10 tenths of the available energy in the fuel then yes the extra money is worth it.
If you are running an engine with a lot of easily damages sensors like top end direct injection engines then the cost is justified to protect the engine sensors.
In a basic mower engine that is making 5Hp / litre they are a joke .
And if you are wondering why any one bothered to make synthetic oil in the first place, it was a by-product of the research for converting gas into petrol which was designed to reduce the USA's dependence on middle eastern oil .
Because the oil is cleaner then the exhaust is "cleaner" if you use synthetics so the EPA can enforce tighter emission controls which is one reason why zinc levels in oils are being lowered .
B
bertsmobile1
First of all, Kohler doesn't make oil, synthetic or fossil, so buying Kohler oil is just adding a mark-up on the price.. 300 hours isn't a long time, I think I'd be OK with that because syn. oil does not break down. Years ago a test was performed with Mobil 1 vs standard Mobil oil using NYC taxis. I don't remember how many miles they got on the regular oil before lubricity failed due to molecular breakdown, but the test was stopped after 1 million hours and there was no change to any of the measured parameters of the Mobil 1. I've stuck with synthetics ever since. Remember, every time you use a wrench on any machine you introduce a failure mode that didn't exist before, such as a filter with stress cracks. For that reason I rarely perform any maintenance early.
You seem to have a picked up a few misconceptions about exactly what synthetic or semi synthetic oil really are .
Oil is a complex blend of hydrocarbons.
Some are gas some are liquids & some are solids .
The normal refining process just removes bits till you end up with what you can use , which might include a pile of bits you don't really want but make little difference to the operation of the fuel / oil / wax / gas / tar that you are trying to make
Synthetic processing does the same thing the opposite way by braking the crude down into all of its parts then blend only the bits you want to be there back together.
Now if you used the synthetic or a pure synthetic then some of its properties are substantially enhanced over a standard refined oil.
However that does not happen because synthetics, just like normal refined oils does not have all of the desired properties so a package of addatives has to be added or it would go off a lot faster than standard oils because it is in a substantially higher energy state.
Just the same way as iron, or copper corrode because they are in a higher energy state than their oxides .
The big difference is standard oil is at a purity level of around 98% , semi synthetics are 99% & fully synthetics are 99.9% pure .
Just like gold, 98% is expensive, 99 % is more expensive & 99,9% is even more expensive & if your pockets are deep enough or your research budget is big enough you can get 99.99% and 99.999% .
Any way synthetic still break down & oxadise just like standard oils do and every other refined material, it is the first law of thermodynamics & to date is yet to be proven wrong .
Fully synthetics are a slightly different case as they are made by reacting one of the gasses , that has been removed from crude oil during refining and then reacting with ammonia to make an oil , some are made from natural gas that has been refined but the process is the same.
Fully synthetics start life a bit cleaner than semi synthetics but again are useless for use in an engine without the addative package.
And this package will be consumed during use rendering the oil useless just the same as it happens with standard oils , but because the oil has less impurities in it , the oxidization &/or decomposition takes longer.
Now synthetics cost 3 to 4 times more than standard oils to make so a lot of total tosh has been published by oil companies to make people believe that they are worth the extra money.
In 90% of the uses there is no advantage whatsoever , and mowers are the perfect example of this so using synthetics in a mower is throwing money away.
Then again people will happily buy lottery tickets .
In a hydro drive their superiour properties & in particular superiour cleanliness is a big advantage .
Because of the brain washing that the oil companies have done , and don't forget the "fakes" who join forums like this to sing the praises of synthetics , and on face book & you tube and anywhere else where the brain dead easily brainwashed congregate , engine makers have to specify synthetic oils to "prove" that their engine is better than every one elses .
IF you are building a high precision high performance engine that is trying to extract 10 tenths of the available energy in the fuel then yes the extra money is worth it.
If you are running an engine with a lot of easily damages sensors like top end direct injection engines then the cost is justified to protect the engine sensors.
In a basic mower engine that is making 5Hp / litre they are a joke .
And if you are wondering why any one bothered to make synthetic oil in the first place, it was a by-product of the research for converting gas into petrol which was designed to reduce the USA's dependence on middle eastern oil .
Because the oil is cleaner then the exhaust is "cleaner" if you use synthetics so the EPA can enforce tighter emission controls which is one reason why zinc levels in oils are being lowered .
#40
F
Franklin Wilkinson
F
Franklin Wilkinson
Synthetic oil is in Vehicles, can go 15,000 miles or longer. In a Lawnmower could be once a year or longer. I have it in all of my equipment.Good to know. What is a the shelf life of synthetic oil?
#41
E
enigma-2
E
enigma-2
You can buy the 2 quarts of Kohler and filter for $30 on Amazon.
Amazon.com: Genuine Kohler 52 050 02-S Oil Change Kit w/Oil pad and 10W-30 Oil: Automotive
Buy Genuine Kohler 52 050 02-S Oil Change Kit w/Oil pad and 10W-30 Oil: Motor Oils - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
#42
E
enigma-2
E
enigma-2
Rather than change my oil at specific intervals, I use an electronic oil tester. (You would be surprised how long oil can last based on actual measurements). This is similar to what I use :
Amazon.com: Automotive Engine Reader Checks,Oil Quality Tester,Motor Engine Detector Gas Diesel Analyzer : Automotive
Buy Automotive Engine Reader Checks,Oil Quality Tester,Motor Engine Detector Gas Diesel Analyzer: Tools & Equipment - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
#43
B
bertsmobile1
Suppose you have a miracle milage increaser as well.
That do-dad simply measures the resistance of the oil and is a joke.
They have been pulled apart dozens of times
Nothing more than an electrode pad with a variety of connections & some refference resistors .
Dancing naked at midnight around a beaker of used oil with a stick on a string would be about the same accuracy.
Oil gets changed at the end of each season.
Hours are not important unless it is a commercial mower .
proper oil testing involves flame chromotography . X-ray diffraction , centrifuging then some highly skilled wet chemistry to determine the remaining amount of the addatives in the package.
B
bertsmobile1
Really ?Rather than change my oil at specific intervals, I use an electronic oil tester. (You would be surprised how long oil can last based on actual measurements). This is similar to what I use :
Amazon.com: Automotive Engine Reader Checks,Oil Quality Tester,Motor Engine Detector Gas Diesel Analyzer : Automotive
Buy Automotive Engine Reader Checks,Oil Quality Tester,Motor Engine Detector Gas Diesel Analyzer: Tools & Equipment - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchaseswww.amazon.com
Suppose you have a miracle milage increaser as well.
That do-dad simply measures the resistance of the oil and is a joke.
They have been pulled apart dozens of times
Nothing more than an electrode pad with a variety of connections & some refference resistors .
Dancing naked at midnight around a beaker of used oil with a stick on a string would be about the same accuracy.
Oil gets changed at the end of each season.
Hours are not important unless it is a commercial mower .
proper oil testing involves flame chromotography . X-ray diffraction , centrifuging then some highly skilled wet chemistry to determine the remaining amount of the addatives in the package.
#44
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
You would be surprised how many people bring in a push mower and say to not change the oil because they have $$$ synthetic oil in it and it looks like tar because they haven't changed it in forever.
#46
E
enigma-2
Changing oil annually is only a precaution, like preventive maintenance. Granted, it can pick up moisture over the winter but even that shows on the tester. Oxidation is less of a problem than people think.
For whatever its worth, taxicabs routinely use oil monitoring and not specific intervols for oil changes. (And that's some of the most severe use on the road.
E
enigma-2
You have absolutely no idea what your talking about. The device measures the levels of acidity, carbon depositis, moisture and a few other impurities. And it works, no matter how little you know about it. Silly nonsense babble.Really ?
Suppose you have a miracle milage increaser as well.
That do-dad simply measures the resistance of the oil and is a joke.
They have been pulled apart dozens of times
Nothing more than an electrode pad with a variety of connections & some refference resistors .
Dancing naked at midnight around a beaker of used oil with a stick on a string would be about the same accuracy.
Oil gets changed at the end of each season.
Changing oil annually is only a precaution, like preventive maintenance. Granted, it can pick up moisture over the winter but even that shows on the tester. Oxidation is less of a problem than people think.
For whatever its worth, taxicabs routinely use oil monitoring and not specific intervols for oil changes. (And that's some of the most severe use on the road.
#47
E
enigma-2
E
enigma-2
This is the tester I'm actually using (and have used it for years).
(Not available any longer.)
Years ago AutoBlog did an article on the device. They even sent comparitive samples into Blackstone Labs to test the device's accuracy.
(Not available any longer.)
Amazon.com: Lubricheck Motor Oil Tester - Instantly Know If Your Oil Needs Changing!: Automotive
Buy Lubricheck Motor Oil Tester - Instantly Know If Your Oil Needs Changing!: Fuel Pressure Testers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
us.amazon.com
Years ago AutoBlog did an article on the device. They even sent comparitive samples into Blackstone Labs to test the device's accuracy.
#48
B
bertsmobile1
I used to drive cabs & the ones I drove would be lucky to be stationary for more than an hour a day .
Crawling through almost stationary traffic is not great, but no where near as destructive as jumping into an ice cold car a flying off to work course you are running a bit late.
And on top of that most cab drivers by virtue of the fact they do it all day every day actually know how to drive in heavy traffic .
Then, because down time costs a lot of money, most are serviced a whole lot better than your average car.
During my studies I worked at the Defence Materials Lab where I learned more about oils that I would ever need to know in private life.
We pioneered most of the oil analysis techniques used world wide and two of these pioneers were my bosses .
Your device that is no longer sold ( which speaks volumes for it's accuracy ) was a con from day one and I do know what I am talking about .
It is a slightly modified DVM that does nothing but measure the resistance of the oil .
Moisture content for example can only be determined by heating the oil to its working temperature ( around 80C for a car engine ) on a balance till it achieves a constant weight.
The vapour given off is then condensed and also weighed.
A more sofisticated method is to heat at the known vapour point for the volatile contaminants till a constant weigh is achieved, noting the weight before going to the next higher temperature.
Again the vapour is condensed weighed then chemically analysed.
But if you want to believe in your do-hickey then go ahead
It is your engines that are at risk, not mine .
We determined when oil needed changing by doing a proper analysis and we correlated what we found in the oil to actual measured wear inside the engines ( mainly turbo prop , helicopter patrol boat , frigate & tank engines )
That was free carbon , oxygen demand ( determines how much anti oxidants are still active ) .
That was followed by specific gravity testing .
Samples were then heated to specific temperature to volatalise different things that may be present such as fuels & water.
After that a flame cromograph got used to determine what elements were in the oil, specifically iron nickel & chrome for engine wear & zinc sulphur & phos for boundary lubrication
Following this x-ray diffraction to determine what molecules of engine materials were present & some of the molecules of the oil so we could determine what was wearing, top ring, second ring, oil scraper, linner, valve guide, cam follower, cam , etc etc etc.
Then atomic adsorbtion spectrometry to pull all of the trace elements like phos , sulphur , manganise & molly
Then there was centrifuging at various G levels to separate solids of different specific gravities
After that it went into the wet chemical lab which was a place I did not have security clearance to enter.
My actual duties were to prepare the sample for X-ray diffraction then analyse the results, which is a fancy way of saying look for the Millers indicies of alloys known to be present .
The mechanical physics section did all of the bulk property testing, viscosities , 3 ball & cup testing , smear testing , viscious friction , thin film strength , frothing , detergency . etc plus a whole pile of stuff that does not come to mind right now.
They tested both the fresh oils and the dirty oil where as the section I was in tested only used oils with the objective of using oil analysis to determine when engines needed work, rather than tear downs at specific operational hours.
We did some cutting fluids, transformer oils & explosives as well.
A really interesting place to work but due to the politics of the Vietnam war there were massive budget cuts once the withdrawls were announced so no full time job for yours truly , the technology go sold off to private enterprise and most of the scientific staff got sacked, many of which moved to the USA & UK to set up similar programes.
If you look at the scientific staff at Blackstone you will find a lot of Aussies came there in the late 70's & early 80's
So apart from oil company engineers & chemist, I would hazard to guess I have probably forgotten more about oils than most on this list will ever know .
B
bertsmobile1
Actually taxis engines have a fairly easy life because most are on the road 24/7 and the engines rarely cool down completely .You have absolutely no idea what your talking about. The device measures the levels of acidity, carbon depositis, moisture and a few other impurities. And it works, no matter how little you know about it. Silly nonsense babble.
Changing oil annually is only a precaution, like preventive maintenance. Granted, it can pick up moisture over the winter but even that shows on the tester. Oxidation is less of a problem than people think.
For whatever its worth, taxicabs routinely use oil monitoring and not specific intervols for oil changes. (And that's some of the most severe use on the road.
I used to drive cabs & the ones I drove would be lucky to be stationary for more than an hour a day .
Crawling through almost stationary traffic is not great, but no where near as destructive as jumping into an ice cold car a flying off to work course you are running a bit late.
And on top of that most cab drivers by virtue of the fact they do it all day every day actually know how to drive in heavy traffic .
Then, because down time costs a lot of money, most are serviced a whole lot better than your average car.
During my studies I worked at the Defence Materials Lab where I learned more about oils that I would ever need to know in private life.
We pioneered most of the oil analysis techniques used world wide and two of these pioneers were my bosses .
Your device that is no longer sold ( which speaks volumes for it's accuracy ) was a con from day one and I do know what I am talking about .
It is a slightly modified DVM that does nothing but measure the resistance of the oil .
Moisture content for example can only be determined by heating the oil to its working temperature ( around 80C for a car engine ) on a balance till it achieves a constant weight.
The vapour given off is then condensed and also weighed.
A more sofisticated method is to heat at the known vapour point for the volatile contaminants till a constant weigh is achieved, noting the weight before going to the next higher temperature.
Again the vapour is condensed weighed then chemically analysed.
But if you want to believe in your do-hickey then go ahead
It is your engines that are at risk, not mine .
We determined when oil needed changing by doing a proper analysis and we correlated what we found in the oil to actual measured wear inside the engines ( mainly turbo prop , helicopter patrol boat , frigate & tank engines )
That was free carbon , oxygen demand ( determines how much anti oxidants are still active ) .
That was followed by specific gravity testing .
Samples were then heated to specific temperature to volatalise different things that may be present such as fuels & water.
After that a flame cromograph got used to determine what elements were in the oil, specifically iron nickel & chrome for engine wear & zinc sulphur & phos for boundary lubrication
Following this x-ray diffraction to determine what molecules of engine materials were present & some of the molecules of the oil so we could determine what was wearing, top ring, second ring, oil scraper, linner, valve guide, cam follower, cam , etc etc etc.
Then atomic adsorbtion spectrometry to pull all of the trace elements like phos , sulphur , manganise & molly
Then there was centrifuging at various G levels to separate solids of different specific gravities
After that it went into the wet chemical lab which was a place I did not have security clearance to enter.
My actual duties were to prepare the sample for X-ray diffraction then analyse the results, which is a fancy way of saying look for the Millers indicies of alloys known to be present .
The mechanical physics section did all of the bulk property testing, viscosities , 3 ball & cup testing , smear testing , viscious friction , thin film strength , frothing , detergency . etc plus a whole pile of stuff that does not come to mind right now.
They tested both the fresh oils and the dirty oil where as the section I was in tested only used oils with the objective of using oil analysis to determine when engines needed work, rather than tear downs at specific operational hours.
We did some cutting fluids, transformer oils & explosives as well.
A really interesting place to work but due to the politics of the Vietnam war there were massive budget cuts once the withdrawls were announced so no full time job for yours truly , the technology go sold off to private enterprise and most of the scientific staff got sacked, many of which moved to the USA & UK to set up similar programes.
If you look at the scientific staff at Blackstone you will find a lot of Aussies came there in the late 70's & early 80's
So apart from oil company engineers & chemist, I would hazard to guess I have probably forgotten more about oils than most on this list will ever know .
#49
cpurvis
cpurvis
I was going to point that out, too. Anytime you see claims being made about '24, 48, or1046 hour "torture" tests', be suspicious. That is the easiest duty an engine can see. It's "surviving" ONE thermal cycle.Actually taxis engines have a fairly easy life because most are on the road 24/7 and the engines rarely cool down completely .
#50
B
bad69cat
B
bad69cat
300 seems kind of short for synthetic....? Id keep tabs on the condition of oil. FI engines are very efficient..... id think more like 500 honestly....
#51
O
Old Man 1550
O
Old Man 1550
I have used Royal Purple with really good results. At work we used it in out screw air compressors. We had a 200 HP, and a 150 HP with a little 50 HP for back up. The 50 HP had 50,000 hours on it, and the company that did the work for us said they should rebuild the little one since it had so many hours on it. To me 50k hours was a lot.
They pulled it all apart, and all the parts were in factory specs. This was near Victorville CA, and there is a lot of sand in the air from time to time.
Since then, (1987), I have used Royal Purple oil in every thing I own. It's not always the cheapest, but I have never had an oil-related mishap. If I can find them, I used the K&N oil filters. The only trouble I have ever had with K&N is the last filter I bought, the welded on formed nut on the bottom broke off even before I put any torque on it. I e-mailed them with pictures and they sent me out 2 of them. I'd have to say they stand behind their work.
I can get them for my engine, but I'm not sure of their availability for other engines.
I hope it helps,
Smiles!
They pulled it all apart, and all the parts were in factory specs. This was near Victorville CA, and there is a lot of sand in the air from time to time.
Since then, (1987), I have used Royal Purple oil in every thing I own. It's not always the cheapest, but I have never had an oil-related mishap. If I can find them, I used the K&N oil filters. The only trouble I have ever had with K&N is the last filter I bought, the welded on formed nut on the bottom broke off even before I put any torque on it. I e-mailed them with pictures and they sent me out 2 of them. I'd have to say they stand behind their work.
I can get them for my engine, but I'm not sure of their availability for other engines.
I hope it helps,
Smiles!
#52
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
I bought a K/N filter for my mule (KN-128) one time, it came with a card in that said the nut (17MM) was for removing the filter only.
#53
7394
7394
If you only hand-tighten the oil filters, like they instruct. they should come off with out too much effort.
If not a strap wrench helps.
If not a strap wrench helps.
#54
Hammermechanicman
These are the feline's posterior!
Hammermechanicman
If you only hand-tighten the oil filters, like they instruct. they should come off with out too much effort.
If not a strap wrench helps.
These are the feline's posterior!
#55
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
I had trouble with removing the filter on my mule, mainly due to lack of room to get pliers on the filter, and i never could get the right filter wrench, either too tight or loose.
so i finally made my own, got some old exhaust pipe slightly bigger than the filter, drilled and tapped 2 holes in it, and use 2 bolts to grip the filter, and i have a 7/8" nut welded on a plate on one end. works great and was basically free.
so i finally made my own, got some old exhaust pipe slightly bigger than the filter, drilled and tapped 2 holes in it, and use 2 bolts to grip the filter, and i have a 7/8" nut welded on a plate on one end. works great and was basically free.
#56
S
slomo
slomo
S
slomo
Nope, not at all.The b27i is a Walker zero turn with a 27 horse, fuel injected, Kohler engine, not a push mower. Does that change your analysis?
slomo
#57
S
slomo
In a car or truck, oil gets changed regardless of flavor twice a year. Why, it's a multi-thousand dollar item. Mowers get changed once after scalping and yearly after that. Not that big of an expense.
slomo
S
slomo
Umm, okay. Guess you could run Wesson Oil for a million miles too. That 15k or 25k miles per oil change is a SALES GIMMICK. Might call your favorite brand of oil and inquire about them replacing your engines. See what they say on parts and labor.Synthetic oil is in Vehicles, can go 15,000 miles or longer. In a Lawnmower could be once a year or longer. I have it in all of my equipment.
In a car or truck, oil gets changed regardless of flavor twice a year. Why, it's a multi-thousand dollar item. Mowers get changed once after scalping and yearly after that. Not that big of an expense.
slomo
#58
S
slomo
slomo
S
slomo
You change oil because it's dirty. Not at 25k miles or sampled from a lab.Rather than change my oil at specific intervals, I use an electronic oil tester. (You would be surprised how long oil can last based on actual measurements). This is similar to what I use :
Amazon.com: Automotive Engine Reader Checks,Oil Quality Tester,Motor Engine Detector Gas Diesel Analyzer : Automotive
Buy Automotive Engine Reader Checks,Oil Quality Tester,Motor Engine Detector Gas Diesel Analyzer: Tools & Equipment - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchaseswww.amazon.com
slomo
#59
S
slomo
That oil tester is a joke at best. Seen those at the State Fair. Changing oil is PM.
New paragraph here. Bertsmobile1 knows his sh_t. End of message.
slomo
S
slomo
We are not mowing with taxi cabs.You have absolutely no idea what your talking about. The device measures the levels of acidity, carbon depositis, moisture and a few other impurities. And it works, no matter how little you know about it. Silly nonsense babble.
Changing oil annually is only a precaution, like preventive maintenance. Granted, it can pick up moisture over the winter but even that shows on the tester. Oxidation is less of a problem than people think.
For whatever its worth, taxicabs routinely use oil monitoring and not specific intervols for oil changes. (And that's some of the most severe use on the road.
That oil tester is a joke at best. Seen those at the State Fair. Changing oil is PM.
New paragraph here. Bertsmobile1 knows his sh_t. End of message.
slomo
#60
S
slomo
Every time I buy a used mower, the oil is like tar. When I sell one, you have to step outside in the full sun to see the oil level on the stick, WITH your reading glasses. Which would you prefer?
slomo
S
slomo
Keep stretching the numbers. I don't get it........ A 0 turn holds what a quart and a half? Some maybe more? Push mowers like 18 whole ounces?300 seems kind of short for synthetic....? Id keep tabs on the condition of oil. FI engines are very efficient..... id think more like 500 honestly....
Every time I buy a used mower, the oil is like tar. When I sell one, you have to step outside in the full sun to see the oil level on the stick, WITH your reading glasses. Which would you prefer?
slomo
#61
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
I will add a little side story.
Most British motorcycle pre 1980 used a centrifugal oil filter inside the crank, commonly called a sludge trap in conjunction with a settleing tank + a ew gauze screens to protect various devices.
The recommended time between bottom end rebuilds is 30,000 miles, mainly to clean out the sludge trap.
A riding friend has a bike that would not hold pressure at idle, a sure sign that the previous owner had not done the bottom end work.
Well he was a sailor who did regular coastal work so it was 6 days on & 6 days off.
HE changed the oil every time he rode the bike ( usually on a 4 to 6 day ride ) and the clean looking oil then got used to do an oil change in his F 250 truck.
120,000 miles latter he sold the said same bike with exactly the same low oil pressure problem that it has when he bought it.
as another riding pal used to say
"Oil is the cheapest part you can put into a motor"
Most British motorcycle pre 1980 used a centrifugal oil filter inside the crank, commonly called a sludge trap in conjunction with a settleing tank + a ew gauze screens to protect various devices.
The recommended time between bottom end rebuilds is 30,000 miles, mainly to clean out the sludge trap.
A riding friend has a bike that would not hold pressure at idle, a sure sign that the previous owner had not done the bottom end work.
Well he was a sailor who did regular coastal work so it was 6 days on & 6 days off.
HE changed the oil every time he rode the bike ( usually on a 4 to 6 day ride ) and the clean looking oil then got used to do an oil change in his F 250 truck.
120,000 miles latter he sold the said same bike with exactly the same low oil pressure problem that it has when he bought it.
as another riding pal used to say
"Oil is the cheapest part you can put into a motor"
#62
7394
7394
Agree Bert, Oil IS the cheapest part you can put into a motor.(snip)
as another riding pal used to say
"Oil is the cheapest part you can put into a motor"
#64
7394
7394
Really ?
#65
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
But i have to know what oil is the best oil.
#66
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
Ams.....But i have to know what oil is the best oil.
#69
A
awkerper
Other things are important, such as making sure you have the right amount of oil, not too little and not too much, and make sure that contaminants do not get into the engine when you take the filler cap off.
A
awkerper
In my experience, the manuals normally tell you what viscosity of oil to use as well as any other specifications that may be required. For example, if it says the oil must meet API SJ, then I look for that on the oil container. If the container says it meets that specification, I am comfortable using it and I have not had problems to date.My thought is that I would have to contact Kohler directly. But I didn’t read all the literature that came with the Walker yet. I was just trying to accumulate the oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, etc that I would need in the first 2-3 years of ownership.
Would the oil specs be in one of the manuals? And can one trust the specs provided by oil manufacturers?
Other things are important, such as making sure you have the right amount of oil, not too little and not too much, and make sure that contaminants do not get into the engine when you take the filler cap off.