MTD Yardman Pulley Removal.

hs5424

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UPDATE.
Received the piston / rings today and fitted them. Fitted new head gasket, torqued head, seated valves and checked clearance, made crankcase gasket as I didn't order one originally but I made with gasket paper which is the same thickness as the heavy one that is supplied in the kit for this engine. Torqued the crankcase also. I fitted the engine back into the yardman mower and it fired up on the first turn of the key. One thing I noticed is that if I remove the oil filler plug while running the rev's will drop. Is this normal or do I still have a problem with the engine. I am not a mechanic so I don't know if this is normal.
 

hs5424

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Final observation,
Checked the compression cold today to compare readings since I replaced piston and rings etc and measured 70psi now. Wondering if this is ok.
 

bertsmobile1

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Because of the decompression mechanism cranking cylinder pressures are meaningless which is why we use leak down tests to check cylinders & valves.
New rings in an old bore take a while to bed in particularly if it has not been honed before the rings were fitted.
 

hs5424

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Thanks,
I don't have any experience lawnmower engines etc as this was my first attempt at lawnmower engine restoration since I rebuilt an old BSA motorcycle engine about 30 years ago.
I borrowed a honing tool and took the glaze of the bore also. I was just wondering about the increase in compression I measured. I might check it when the engine is hot, just as a learning process. It starts first crank so I am happy with the outcome, so far.
 

bertsmobile1

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If it is any consolidation I am currently re ringing A kawasaki FR 691V
Mr K says 64 psi to 98 psi for the engine at cranking speed.
Because of the ACR he actual time the valve is open to decompress will be inversely proportional to the actual valve lash
Rule of thumb is you need 70 psi for an engine to start, a bit more for blue smokes.
And congratulations for getting it back together
Picked up another basket case today cause the owner decided he was in over his depth
 
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hs5424

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One thing that puzzles me on my engine is the choke setup. My mower has a manual choke but also has a choke link on the governor bracket . My understanding is that at full throttle this choke link applies the choke slightly for some reason. However there is a screw inserted in one of the holes on the control bracket which stops the choke leaver being pushed forward. Why as the choke link installed at all in the first place. ????????????.
 

bertsmobile1

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One thing that puzzles me on my engine is the choke setup. My mower has a manual choke but also has a choke link on the governor bracket . My understanding is that at full throttle this choke link applies the choke slightly for some reason. However there is a screw inserted in one of the holes on the control bracket which stops the choke leaver being pushed forward. Why as the choke link installed at all in the first place. ????????????.
Because at some time the engine has been replaced .
The choke comes on after the throttle has been opened fully for starting the engine.
Briggs call this set up "choke-o-matic" .
Once started you move the throttle back to close the choke /
It should have been removed when the manual choke was connected.
 
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