MTD Interlock switch

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,729
The original switches have holes the after market ones have slots.
If not a Dremel tool will fix things in 2 minutes flat.
Olser models have bushes on the shafts so when they wear they can be replaced, newer ones just go through a hole so when they wear it is a pain to fix it.
Depending upon which type of brake you have some of them can be adjusted to accomodate wear ( big hammer or pinch bar ).
The clown you are talking about is exactly the reason why I am loathed to send any one to You Tube other than about 5 channels.
I have seen the video and welding would have been the last option.
Then when the only tool is a hammer, every problem is a nail
 

ccheatha

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2018
Threads
2
Messages
47
The original switches have holes the after market ones have slots.
If not a Dremel tool will fix things in 2 minutes flat.
Olser models have bushes on the shafts so when they wear they can be replaced, newer ones just go through a hole so when they wear it is a pain to fix it.
Depending upon which type of brake you have some of them can be adjusted to accomodate wear ( big hammer or pinch bar ).
The clown you are talking about is exactly the reason why I am loathed to send any one to You Tube other than about 5 channels.
I have seen the video and welding would have been the last option.
Then when the only tool is a hammer, every problem is a nail

I received the new switch and installed it, but it does the same thing. It's definitely the blade engagement. When I pull forward on it (past the point where the notch holds it in place by just a few millimeters) it starts. So I have to find a way to have the PTO handle pulled back further. Unfortunately, there's no way to slide the blade engagement guide (my own name for it there). I guess I'll have to resort to welding a nut in like the fearless guy from the youtube video who welded without protective eye-wear.
 

BlazNT

Lawn Pro
Joined
Apr 26, 2012
Threads
28
Messages
6,973
I received the new switch and installed it, but it does the same thing. It's definitely the blade engagement. When I pull forward on it (past the point where the notch holds it in place by just a few millimeters) it starts. So I have to find a way to have the PTO handle pulled back further. Unfortunately, there's no way to slide the blade engagement guide (my own name for it there). I guess I'll have to resort to welding a nut in like the fearless guy from the youtube video who welded without protective eye-wear.

Or put some washers under the switch so it sits taller than before. By the way, I have never met a mounting position that a BFH will not move. BFH is a Big Fuc?ing Hammer.
 

ccheatha

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2018
Threads
2
Messages
47
Or put some washers under the switch so it sits taller than before. By the way, I have never met a mounting position that a BFH will not move. BFH is a Big Fuc?ing Hammer.

Okay, so I decided to go another route. First I was thinking that I might replace the notched bracket, but then I thought why not cut another notch (albeit small) into the bracket itself - can't hurt since I was gonna replace it anyway. So I've attached a pick of the cut-out. It works. I actually recorded video along the way, so i might turn it into a youtube how-to. In the meantime, here's the pick. I'm not sure how long it will last, but it works for now.IMG_2025.JPG

Hey, thanks for all the great suggestions, you guys!
 
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