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My old 1999 MTD mower's clutch/brake does not allow me to start the mower unless I depress it hard - like fully down. I traced the pedal to the interlock switch (man they could have not put it in a much more difficult place to get to). Anyway, I notice that the button on the switch has to go all the way in before it will work, versus working like when it's pushed in half-way. So I'm planning to replace the switch, but I thought I'd check here to see if anyone has experienced this and would be able to advise. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Nope,
Replace the switch, they wear out.
Be careful buying the replacement as there are several switches that look the same but either will not plug in or will work backwards to what you need.
If you can look it up in a pars book then order that number.
Otherwise take the switch to a small mower repair shop that sells aftemarket parts.
All the aftermarket supplies carry a full range of safety switches that actually work

bertsmobile1 said:

Nope,
Replace the switch, they wear out.
Be careful buying the replacement as there are several switches that look the same but either will not plug in or will work backwards to what you need.
If you can look it up in a pars book then order that number.
Otherwise take the switch to a small mower repair shop that sells aftemarket parts.
All the aftermarket supplies carry a full range of safety switches that actually work

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, Bert. Sounds like you're saying it should work when the button is in halfway. All good. The part# appears to be 725-1657A. I'll order one up. Hey, thanks again for the reply.

When you getthe new one fitted & it is working, cut the old one in half and look at what is inside.
They wear out, fill up with dust, corrode or just plain fall apart.
For $ 10 or there abouts, not worth trying to fix unless you are really poverty struck.

bertsmobile1 said:

When you getthe new one fitted & it is working, cut the old one in half and look at what is inside.
They wear out, fill up with dust, corrode or just plain fall apart.
For $ 10 or there abouts, not worth trying to fix unless you are really poverty struck.

Click to expand...

? Good idea. I'll open it up once I get the new one. I'll report back on findings.

bertsmobile1 said:

When you getthe new one fitted & it is working, cut the old one in half and look at what is inside.
They wear out, fill up with dust, corrode or just plain fall apart.
For $ 10 or there abouts, not worth trying to fix unless you are really poverty struck.

Click to expand...

Just wanted to let you know. I've been reading (trying to find similar cases as mine) and I did find one (here: https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1119526 ). Their case was similar to mine. My part is in the process of being shipped, but I'm afraid that I might be in the same situation as this guy. I'm thinking that the tab on the brake rod is just not depressing the interlock button in far enough. When I apply the brake and lock it, the button on the interlock switch is in only a little over half way. I'd think it would have to be in almost all the way (at least) to make contact, but maybe I'm wrong about that. At any rate, I'll be able to find out in a few days. Just FYI.

Many issues like this can be addressed with a little persuasion. Or a BFH.:laughing::laughing:

ccheatha said:

Just wanted to let you know. I've been reading (trying to find similar cases as mine) and I did find one (here: https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1119526 ). Their case was similar to mine. My part is in the process of being shipped, but I'm afraid that I might be in the same situation as this guy. I'm thinking that the tab on the brake rod is just not depressing the interlock button in far enough. When I apply the brake and lock it, the button on the interlock switch is in only a little over half way. I'd think it would have to be in almost all the way (at least) to make contact, but maybe I'm wrong about that. At any rate, I'll be able to find out in a few days. Just FYI.

Click to expand...

I saw a youtube video the other day where a guy welded a bolt on the last notch to make the handle tighter...
Seems he was correcting a similar problem best as I can remember.

BlazNT said:

Many issues like this can be addressed with a little persuasion. Or a BFH.:laughing::laughing:

Click to expand...

LOL - you're probably right! If the new switch doesn't work, the hammer's comin! :smile:

shiftsuper175607 said:

I saw a youtube video the other day where a guy welded a bolt on the last notch to make the handle tighter...
Seems he was correcting a similar problem best as I can remember.

Click to expand...

Yeah, you're talking about where the guy welded without wearing eye protection, right? His was the blade engagement (don't know if that's called the PTO switch). My issue is the brake interlock switch. I'm not sure if one has an affect on the other outside of both needing to be connected to complete the circuit. Someone on here more knowledgeable might be able to answer that. I'm tempted to turn the puppy on it's side to get a better view and such (like maybe the brake rod tab is worn and not pushing the switch in enough), but I've heard stories of people getting oil in the wrong places, etc. Some say to avoid turning it on its side where the plug is located and all. Anyway, we'll see what the new part does when it arrives.

The original switches have holes the after market ones have slots.
If not a Dremel tool will fix things in 2 minutes flat.
Olser models have bushes on the shafts so when they wear they can be replaced, newer ones just go through a hole so when they wear it is a pain to fix it.
Depending upon which type of brake you have some of them can be adjusted to accomodate wear ( big hammer or pinch bar ).
The clown you are talking about is exactly the reason why I am loathed to send any one to You Tube other than about 5 channels.
I have seen the video and welding would have been the last option.
Then when the only tool is a hammer, every problem is a nail

bertsmobile1 said:

The original switches have holes the after market ones have slots.
If not a Dremel tool will fix things in 2 minutes flat.
Olser models have bushes on the shafts so when they wear they can be replaced, newer ones just go through a hole so when they wear it is a pain to fix it.
Depending upon which type of brake you have some of them can be adjusted to accomodate wear ( big hammer or pinch bar ).
The clown you are talking about is exactly the reason why I am loathed to send any one to You Tube other than about 5 channels.
I have seen the video and welding would have been the last option.
Then when the only tool is a hammer, every problem is a nail

Click to expand...

I received the new switch and installed it, but it does the same thing. It's definitely the blade engagement. When I pull forward on it (past the point where the notch holds it in place by just a few millimeters) it starts. So I have to find a way to have the PTO handle pulled back further. Unfortunately, there's no way to slide the blade engagement guide (my own name for it there). I guess I'll have to resort to welding a nut in like the fearless guy from the youtube video who welded without protective eye-wear.

Move the switch closer .

bertsmobile1 said:

Move the switch closer .

Click to expand...

Not sure if that's possible. The switch for the brake had screws and the position could not be adjusted. That might be different for the PTO. I'll check tomorrow.

ccheatha said:

I received the new switch and installed it, but it does the same thing. It's definitely the blade engagement. When I pull forward on it (past the point where the notch holds it in place by just a few millimeters) it starts. So I have to find a way to have the PTO handle pulled back further. Unfortunately, there's no way to slide the blade engagement guide (my own name for it there). I guess I'll have to resort to welding a nut in like the fearless guy from the youtube video who welded without protective eye-wear.

Click to expand...

Or put some washers under the switch so it sits taller than before. By the way, I have never met a mounting position that a BFH will not move. BFH is a Big Fuc?ing Hammer.

BlazNT said:

Or put some washers under the switch so it sits taller than before. By the way, I have never met a mounting position that a BFH will not move. BFH is a Big Fuc?ing Hammer.

Click to expand...

Okay, so I decided to go another route. First I was thinking that I might replace the notched bracket, but then I thought why not cut another notch (albeit small) into the bracket itself - can't hurt since I was gonna replace it anyway. So I've attached a pick of the cut-out. It works. I actually recorded video along the way, so i might turn it into a youtube how-to. In the meantime, here's the pick. I'm not sure how long it will last, but it works for now.

Hey, thanks for all the great suggestions, you guys!