More tools. WOO HOO

[bertsmobile1]

OK
The HF chain grinder must be different to the Aldi one we got down here which was basically a Jolly Grinder made in plastic, with a plastic cased motor.
However the armature was the same as the Jolly grinder so it came with the same wheels
Bunnings ( Lowes on steroids ) also had a plastic chain grinder for about the same price but I never had a chance to have a good look at it.
They came then went, never to be repeated so I thought they were another one of those one container wonders.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Electric Chain Saw Sharpener

Amazing deals on this Electric Chain Saw Sharpener at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

This is the Hazard Frought chain grinder. Out of the box it will actually do a decent job of sharpening some chains. Angle is fixed around 50 degrees. Takes an odd sized wheel. After a couple hundred chains the chain clamp and the plastic pivot are shot. I must admit for $30 i did make good money off it. For the average joe sharpening a few chains a year it would work fine as long as you take the time to figure out its idiosyncrasies. It is just not up to being used in a shop. Especially with many different sized chains.

 

[StarTech]

To honest the HF unit didn't make it pass a couple dozen chains. Loose clamping of chains was major problem along with cutter stop wobbling all over the place. It only save several rocked chains, even then I had finish hand filing the chains afterwards.

The Oregon 420 is a lot better but I did finally figure why it wasn't grinding right at the profile settings. Apparently on the one I got the are off by about 1 degree. Otherwords for a head tilt of 55 degrees you to set it just shy of the 55 degree mark, probably caused by the looseness of the pivot point. It is the same for cutter angle where if you wanting 25 degrees you got to set just shy the 25 degree mark (or about 24 degrees). The 10 degree down tilt seems a little excessive but livable, probably be closer as the grinding wheel wears.

Overall it is 10x the unit compared to the HF grinder.

Anyway I had to get a new grinder that actually worked correctly after 8 rock hard chains that dulled 5 hand files. I never had blisters before filing ten chains but I did after doing these. I ask the customer what brand they were but he said he didn't remember the brand he brought. They had the Timber Ridge logo stamp on the tie straps but they are not as I have and sell the Timber Ridge and they file much easier. I do spool .325 chain that I have to rework right off the spool due bad grinding of the left hand cutters.

 

[Old_Paint]

Have you tried young kid? I dress one mine out and bbq it every once a while just to keep the schools off my back for not sending the kids to schools as they think I got school age ones here. Had an old man come up earlier this year insisting I put my kids in school. I ordered him off the property for being an idiot.

Yeah, your goats probably would have been too smart, and got held back for the "No Kids Left Behind" politics. Between that, and Common Core 'education', it's no wonder there's a generation of idiots about to take over this country. Seeing how the 30-somethings, 20-somethings, and teenagers think these says, we've got a big problem.

 

[Old_Paint]

To honest the HF unit didn't make it pass a couple dozen chains. Loose clamping of chains was major problem along with cutter stop wobbling all over the place. It only save several rocked chains, even then I had finish hand filing the chains afterwards.

I have this exact sharpener. I haven't had to use mine that much, but I'm fairly careful about where I put my chain. However, I hit a pretty massive rock cutting a stump close to the ground, and it destroyed the chain. That was the main reason I bout the HF sharpener. The chain was brand new, and I didn't want to just toss it, but knew that the file work was gonna be a nightmare to ever get it to cut again. I took out a lot of the teeth, but I did recover the chain. Cuts beautifully, and I can touch it up as needed with a file. I have to give it a decent rating for personal light use, but as you pointed out, it looks way too 'inexpensive' to be considered a decent shop tool. I keep a spare disc around too, as I have no idea if there's a way to resurface the wheel. That's normally a necessity for anything that uses a grinding wheel.

 

[StarTech]

There is a dressing stone available but you need dress the grinding wheel free hand to profile you want.

Dressing Brick 1/2 x 1/2 x 2

 

[Old_Paint]

There is a dressing stone available but you need dress the grinding wheel free hand to profile you want.

Dressing Brick 1/2 x 1/2 x 2

I'm old and not that steady any more. Besides that, I don't have an artistic bone in my body. I can't even draw stick men, let alone sculpt the edge of a grinding wheel right. I'll just get me a new wheel. Already have a spare in the drawer. I think I have a stone like that which I got with my Dremel as well. They're pretty good at wrecking abrasive points too. Unless it's a bench grinder that I need to redo the face on it with a flat tool, I usually only make things worse.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I'm old and not that steady any more. Besides that, I don't have an artistic bone in my body. I can't even draw stick men, let alone sculpt the edge of a grinding wheel right. I'll just get me a new wheel. Already have a spare in the drawer. I think I have a stone like that which I got with my Dremel as well. They're pretty good at wrecking abrasive points too. Unless it's a bench grinder that I need to redo the face on it with a flat tool, I usually only make things worse.

There is a chain gauge tool like this one that includes grinding wheel profiles, the little steps on the side are depth gauges for the rakers / stops , the holes are for file size and there is a set of pitch measurement ribs .
It is Italian and is made by Jolly, the people who make most of the chain grinders .